UKC Forums - NEWS: First Ascent of Anapanasati E9 6c by Matt Helliker

NEWS: First Ascent of Anapanasati E9 6c by Matt Helliker

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UKC News 20 Jul 2023

Matt Helliker has added a new E9 6c to Doyden Point in North Cornwall, which he has named Anapanasati.

FactorXXX 20 Jul 2023

Matt wrote on Instagram that if the line were on a solid limestone seacliff (such as Pembroke), then he would have graded it hard E8 with its 7c+ climbing and a droppable 7D boulder sequence above a very big run out.

7D Boulder sequence?

Climber_Bill 20 Jul 2023

In reply to FactorXXX:

> 7D Boulder sequence?

The 7th Dimension of course:

The Seventh Dimension is an inter-dimensional reality that exists outside of the normally accepted space/time continuum.

Different laws of physics prevent a person normally moving into that place. The time also flows differently here: each 1 hour spent in the Seventh Dimension is equivalent to 1 minute in our world.

Obviously, Matt had to enter the 7D to give him enough time to recover between each hard sequence.

laughitup 20 Jul 2023

In reply to UKC News:

Shoulda called it Anne'spastys in homage of the jewel of the county

Michael Gordon 20 Jul 2023

In reply to UKC News:

The 3rd photo is great - very atmospheric!

Misha 20 Jul 2023

In reply to FactorXXX:

Now corrected to 7B. Unless the rest of the route is relatively straightforward, to my mind a 7B crux suggests a bit more than 7c+ but someone climbing those grades might correct me. Anyway, great to see a hard new route in the SW.

jon 21 Jul 2023

In reply to UKC News:

> If you were to take the 12m fall from the crux, it would be onto a fragile, hollow block which has moved a few cms since I have been working the route. If the block broke off, there is ground fall potential.

Not really selling it, are you, Matt ?

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 21 Jul 2023

In reply to Misha:

> Now corrected to 7B. Unless the rest of the route is relatively straightforward, to my mind a 7B crux suggests a bit more than 7c+ but someone climbing those grades might correct me. Anyway, great to see a hard new route in the SW.

7B is a pretty hard crux for a route!! For context, the boulder problem start of Caviar (8a+) is 7B and that’s 8a+ - not to mention it’s a lot, lot shorter.

Tangents aside, good effort on the FA Matt. That block sounds totally terrifying though. I think I’ll stick to Lotus (E1 5b) as/when I’m next down at Doyden - it sounds a lot safer!

Robbie_Phillips 27 Jul 2023

In reply to Misha:

Yeah I'd agree with Rob. My recent E9 is about 8a+ and I thought the boulder crux on that was roughly 7B into 6C. Also, an E8 (8a+) I did last year had a 7B+ crux with easier climbing below and above. If 7c+ has a 7B boulder it sounds either sandbag at 7c+ or maybe the boulder grade is slightly off? I have always found climbers tend to generally overestimate the boulder difficulty when climbing on a rope for some reason... but then again, Matt is on superb boulder form at the moment with an 8B tick recently to boot... so who knows?

Post edited at 19:40