UKC

Quite unsurprisingly Adam Ondra has made the coveted first repeat of Chris Sharma's First round, first minute, ~9b, in the Raco de la finestra sector at Margalef.
Chris Sharma made the first ascent of this short, steep, very bouldery route on 19 April 2011 and no one has been able to repeat it...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68688

In reply to UKC News:

wow....i wonder how long it took him?

In reply to UKC News:

FRFM is in the Laboratori sector not Finestra.

According to 8a.nu it took Adam 9-10 days. Seems like he was always trying it on very short trips, often in bad conditions though.

In reply to UKC News:

I'd be gutted if there isn't footage of this...

In reply to UKC News:

Adam dat route thief.

In reply to UKC News:

Interview here:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41...

In reply to FreshSlate:


Adam made the first repeat not the first ascent.

In reply to UKC News:

He's a diplomat, Ondra, isn't he? I like his code for 'Sharma's a technically useless lout who spent ages trying to do it all wrong. It's not that hard'.

jcm

In reply to Phil79:

Thanks for that

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

>'... Sharma's a technically useless lout ...


I'm not sure what that makes the rest of the climbing world. Are you sure you are reading that quite right?

In reply to Removed User:

A relative term.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I felt Ondra's comment was more about Sharma getting 'beta blind' after spending so long trying to put up the route.

There seems to be a pervading idea that Sharma is technically not 'all that great' just really, really strong and dynamic. Of course, being dynamic is a technique. Personally, when I watch him climb something like Jumbo Love for example, his technique looks up there with the very best. Which ties in with him being one of the only (two) people to have climbed 9b and 9b+.

In reply to doylo: And it did sound like Sharma found the good beta eventually, and maybe he shared it with Ondra.

In reply to UKC News:


Missing some beta does not mean you're technically useless. Happens to most people who do FAs

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Yep its amazing how you can have tunnel vision on something you've spent so long on.

In reply to doylo: Tell me about it. I spent ages on 2 purple problems down The Depot, until a helpful regular gave me some beta.