UKC

Big news from Patagonia.

Dougald MacDonald reports.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2008#n42333

Rollo has pulled of THE ascent of the decade...if not century.

Well done.

Andy

In reply to andy kirkpatrick: that looks insane. truly hardcore. well done!

"in perfect weather but feeling unusually tired, likely due to carbon monoxide poisoning"

"so upon reaching the Col of Conquest they were forced to find a place to hide from the falling ice, and stopped to bivy at around 5 p.m. under a prow of rock"

"This final pitch is climbed by laboriously digging vertical trenches through the rime, and since no other party had yet attempted it this season, they found the 50 meters of protection-less rime daunting. He spent three hours completing a 20-meter tunnel inside the mushroom"

Unbelievable stuff. These guys are monsters.

Henry

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Unbelievable that Colin Haley is only 23! No doubt a phenomenal Alpine career lies ahead.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Incredible, truly inspirational stuff. Well done.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: So will they accept the Piolet d'Or?

In reply to Ackbar:

Ha! Nice one. We have an article coming up on that.



Mick

They should melt down all the golden axes and make one big giant one for these guys.

In reply to andy kirkpatrick:

Bugger isn't it, now you have to do it in the reverse direction.

In reply to andy kirkpatrick:

Absolutely awesome.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

sounds amazing - imagine doing that at 23 - where do you go from that!

In reply to CJD:

Yes, truly amazing. But there are other huge obvious challenges waiting to be done in the distant future. I don't think anyone's succeed on Nanda Devi yet; and then there's the Everest 'horseshoe' - Nuptse, Lhotse, Everest (and down the West Ridge!) ... ...

In reply to CJD:

There's always grit

Thanks to Clint Cummins for this:

If Colin Haley's name is not familiar, it's probably because he's so young (~23). But he's already done a lot of climbing:

http://www.greatoutdoors.com/published/big-year-for-climber-colin-haley

List of Climbs July 2006-June 2007:

Mt. Moffit, Alaska. First Ascent of The Entropy Wall (VI, 5.9, A2, WI4+), July 10-13, with Jed Brown.
Bear Mountain, Cascades. Ascent of the Direct North Buttress (V, 5.10), July.
Forbidden Peak, Cascades. Ascent of the West Ridge (III, 5.6), August.
Bugaboo Spire, Bugaboos. Ascent of the Northeast Ridge (III, 5.8), August.
Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos. Ascent of the Furry Pink Arete (IV, 5.10c), August.
South Howser Tower, Bugaboos. Ascent of the Beckey-Chouinard (V, 5.10), August.
The Sentinel, Yosemite Valley. Ascent of the Steck-Salathe (IV, 5.9+), September.
The Rostrum, Yosemite Valley. Ascent of the North Face (III, 5.11c), September.
South Early Winters Spire, Cascades. Ascent of The Passenger route (IV, 5.11d), October.
Cerro Torre, Patagonia. First linkup of the Marsigny-Parkin and West Face (VI, WI4, M5, AI6) in a 48-hr roundtrip push, January 5-7, with Kelly Cordes.
Mt. Stuart, Cascades. Winter ascent of the Ice Cliff Glacier (IV, AI3), January.
Mt. Index, Cascades. Winter ascent of the Index Peak Traverse (V, AI3, M4) in a day, February.
Mt. Huntington, Alaska. First winter ascent of Huntington, via the Nettle-Quirk (V, AI4), March 12th, with Jed Brown.
Abercrombie Peak, Alaska. First ascent of the Southwest Face (V, WI4, M3), March, with Jed Brown.
Mt. Stuart, Cascades. First ascent of the Lara Kellogg Memorial Route (IV, WI6, A1) on the Northeast Face, April, with Dylan Johnson.
Mt. Robson, British Columbia. First ascent of the House-Haley (VI, WI5, M7) on the Emperor Face, May, with Steve House.
Denali, Alaska. Ascents of the West Buttress, Upper West Rib, and Denali Diamond (VI, WI5+, M6, A1), June, with Mark Westman.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

THE MAN SPEAKS:


ermanno


I was there,I know very good these mountains. I already written to Rolo but I want to do my big congratulation to his friend Haley too. This was the biggest problem in Patagonia. But for Rolo the season is not finished... good luck... SUERTE! (sorry for my poor English)

ermanno salvaterra