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ARTICLE: Gwen Moffat on Diocese

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 UKC Articles 14 Sep 2020

Gwen Moffat on the last stance of Diocese.

Gwen Moffat (96) shares a story of climbing Diocese VS 5a at Chair Ladder in Cornwall. This is an extract from Gwen's book 'On my Home Ground'.


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 Sam Beaton 14 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Magic. I haven't climbed Diocese for 20 odd years but after reading that it seems like yesterday 

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 rurp 14 Sep 2020
In reply to Sam Beaton:

Fantastic route as long as you can climb HVS 4c for the thrutch and HVS 5a for the traverse, then you can really enjoy it. 
She describes the route beautifully and captures its essence. 
If you can’t get up this monster of a VS you can always bridge/chimney for 40 unprotected usually wet feet up the start of Flannel  Avenue a ‘soft touch’ at severe!!

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In reply to rurp:

> If you can’t get up this monster of a VS you can always bridge/chimney for 40 unprotected usually wet feet up the start of Flannel  Avenue a ‘soft touch’ at severe!!

Actually, I remember Bishop's Rib being easier than Diocese!

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 rurp 14 Sep 2020
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Exactly the same. 
Did them both on one day 20 years ago. Diocese felt tough HVS as my warm up, Bishops rib was a breeze and felt VS. 
Thought it was weird, then went back with my son for Diocese this year and realised yes it’s just HVS!

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 cenotaphcorner 14 Sep 2020

I remember soloing it on sight on my honeymoon in 1978. Unfortunately, the  memory lived longer than my marriage!

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In reply to rurp:

I clearly recall the conversation with my partner about how we probably wouldn’t need any big gear as we left it in the car...

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 dabble 15 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Wonderful account, really enjoyed that.

Cheers.

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In reply to Dave Garnett:

> Actually, I remember Bishop's Rib being easier than Diocese!

I think BR is just tricky at the start isn't it. I certainly remember being a lot more daunted by Diocese. I seconded the traverse and remember it being v 'lonely'.

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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

The traverse on Diocese certainly felt a bit thin for VS.

The couple of times I looked at BR, I made the silly mistake of being too early when the rock was still greasy - 1st fall (just a slip really) onto a friend.

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 GrahamD 15 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Once I realised the crux was halfway up pitch 1 and not the traverse, Diocese has always struck me as pretty fair for a big VS.

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 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator UKC Supporter UKC Supporter 15 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Waist belay in a bikini? Now that is hardcore!

Chris

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 Babika 15 Sep 2020
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Fabulous classic photo! 

No harness either - or just a waist band. 

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 Sean Kelly 15 Sep 2020
In reply to UKC Articles:

Superb write up from Gwen, treading that fine line between exhilaration and fear. Just brilliant that you just have to go and climb it!

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