Gwen Moffat (96) shares a story of climbing Diocese VS 5a at Chair Ladder in Cornwall. This is an extract from Gwen's book 'On my Home Ground'.
Magic. I haven't climbed Diocese for 20 odd years but after reading that it seems like yesterday
Fantastic route as long as you can climb HVS 4c for the thrutch and HVS 5a for the traverse, then you can really enjoy it.
She describes the route beautifully and captures its essence.
If you can’t get up this monster of a VS you can always bridge/chimney for 40 unprotected usually wet feet up the start of Flannel Avenue a ‘soft touch’ at severe!!
> If you can’t get up this monster of a VS you can always bridge/chimney for 40 unprotected usually wet feet up the start of Flannel Avenue a ‘soft touch’ at severe!!
Actually, I remember Bishop's Rib being easier than Diocese!
Exactly the same.
Did them both on one day 20 years ago. Diocese felt tough HVS as my warm up, Bishops rib was a breeze and felt VS.
Thought it was weird, then went back with my son for Diocese this year and realised yes it’s just HVS!
I remember soloing it on sight on my honeymoon in 1978. Unfortunately, the memory lived longer than my marriage!
I clearly recall the conversation with my partner about how we probably wouldn’t need any big gear as we left it in the car...
Wonderful account, really enjoyed that.
> Actually, I remember Bishop's Rib being easier than Diocese!
I think BR is just tricky at the start isn't it. I certainly remember being a lot more daunted by Diocese. I seconded the traverse and remember it being v 'lonely'.
The traverse on Diocese certainly felt a bit thin for VS.
The couple of times I looked at BR, I made the silly mistake of being too early when the rock was still greasy - 1st fall (just a slip really) onto a friend.
Once I realised the crux was halfway up pitch 1 and not the traverse, Diocese has always struck me as pretty fair for a big VS.
Waist belay in a bikini? Now that is hardcore!
Fabulous classic photo!
No harness either - or just a waist band.
Superb write up from Gwen, treading that fine line between exhilaration and fear. Just brilliant that you just have to go and climb it!
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