This morning in Yosemite Valley, Hans Florine and Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama set a new speed record for climbing the 870m (2900') Nose route on El Cap. On their fourth attempt in the last ten days they achieved a time of 2 hours 43 minutes and 33 seconds, beating the previous record set by the Germans Thomas and Alexander Huber by 2 minutes and 12 seconds...
In reply to Morgan Woods: I think Yuji frees everything up to 12b ish, but ibviously he'll pull on any fixed gear that's in place.
They simul a good amount of the route so Hans frees up to around the 11c mark while belaying.
These are sort of rough guesses, but seem okish! The only 12 stuff really is the start of boot flake, the start of the great roof and the pitch off camp 5, the rest is a bit easier (bit the top stuff is freaking steep!)
disagree that it's trivial.....it's an Olympian effort....i think anyone who aspires to doing something like the Nose in a Day will find this interesting. maybe you have different aspirations.
Like I said that was my opinion. I don't aspire to do the nose in a day because time isn't an important factor in my climbing world and speed records seem irrelevant to me.
It's not the best film but it's worth remembering that the wall is 15m high, 5 degrees overhanging and the guy on the left does it in 7.35 seconds, a new world record.
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Yuji has onsighted 8c twice, including Pata Negra in Rodellar last year at the age of almost 40, he could still have a reasonable claim to be the worlds best climber(if he wasnt so modest).
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