UKC

NEWS: If 6 Was 9 is 9 says MacLeod

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 Michael Ryan 18 Sep 2007
The number of climbers doing cutting edge ascents on the UK's mountain crags can be counted on the fingers of one hand, perhaps less, and the two main proponents are the Daves. Whilst some E9's on gritstone have had multiple ascents, ascents of E9 and above on the UK's mountain crags are very rare and significant.

If 6 Was 9 at Iron Crag was first climbed in 1992 by Dave Birkett and he proposed a grade of E9 6c, it is one of a string of hard climbs Birkett has established in the Lake District and now it has been repeated 15 years after the first ascent by Dave MacLeod.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Zoomer 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Congratulations and an awesome effort by Mr MacLeod after all the stuff on Set In Stone. Really impressed as he said it was on his tick list earlier in the year and then put his money where his mouth is. Any plans now for Rewind (E10) down in Cornwall?
 tonanf 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: how can youy count on less than one hand? less than one hand is no hands, and then you couldnt count.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Whilst some E9's on gritstone have had multiple ascents,

I doubt it Mick..

Which Gritstone E9's and how many ascents..??>

I would guess no more than, say 6 tops.....tops..?
>
Jay Ledder 18 Sep 2007
In reply to tonanf:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) how can youy count on less than one hand? less than one hand is no hands, and then you couldnt count.

When you know what the sound of one hand clapping you will understand.
OP Michael Ryan 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Jay Ledder:
> (In reply to tonanf)
> [...]
>
> When you know what the sound of one hand clapping you will understand.

I did the first ascent of The Sound of One Hand Clapping at Giggleswick.

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3188

 The Crow 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

<devils advocate>

It can't be E9, because MacLeod isn't wearing a helmet. Anything at 6c that feels so safe that you can consider climbing it without a lid isn't E9.

Check out the Rockfax approx grade table http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html? reading from that safe 6c is no E9!

Of course Dave just might have a death-wish in which case you shouldn't be encouraging him...
OP Michael Ryan 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Grinning Donkey:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)

>
> Which Gritstone E9's and how many ascents..??>
>
> I would guess no more than, say 6 tops.....tops..?
> [...]

Let's start with Parthenon Shot or Knockin' on Heaven's Door.

The Birkett and MacLeod E9's are mostly unrepeated, some, especially the Birkett routes, some which were climbed over a decade ago.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Grinning Donkey)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Let's start with Parthenon Shot or Knockin' on Heaven's Door.
>
> The Birkett and MacLeod E9's are mostly unrepeated, some, especially the Birkett routes, some which were climbed over a decade ago.


OK... but in all honesty not even Parthian and Knockin have not had as you said 'Multiple ascents'.......

Shortish gritsone, albeit scary death(ish) routes,.....
OP Michael Ryan 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Grinning Donkey:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
>
> OK... but in all honesty not even Parthian

It's been done at night by headtorch.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Grinning Donkey)
> [...]
>
> It's been done at night by headtorch.

Yeah... one ascent by the very talented Australian chap...(Apologies ..forget his name)However So has 'Lord' at 'only' E6,(Leo I think), and ...er...phew..

Point is ..I don't think that many E9's have had 'Multiple ascents'.......

OP Michael Ryan 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Grinning Donkey:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> [...]
>
> Yeah... one ascent by the very talented Australian chap...(Apologies ..forget his name)

...not just his name but the other ascensionists....
 Peter Walker 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Grinning Donkey:

> Point is ..I don't think that many E9's have had 'Multiple ascents'.......

Give us a clue as to your idea of "multiple".
 AJM 18 Sep 2007
In reply to Peter Walker:

I was thinking that.

Assuming that multiple is correctly interpreted as more than one, then I'm certain that most of the famous ones will have - Meshuga certainly (I am certain of 2, and can think of another few as well), Parthian Shot also (3 definites, plus maybe more), Knocking presumably although thats the one with all that faff about pegs (at least 2), I'm sure I saw a photo of someone on Harder Faster as well (2, pretty sure on a third too). And thats just the famous people on the famous routes.

Its a lot more than the repeat ascentionists on several of Birkett's other routes, which I think was the point of the comment.

AJM
OP Michael Ryan 18 Sep 2007
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM.


M
 Jon Claw 19 Sep 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

hmmmmm....its just such an ugly route compared to Indian face though isn't it? (about the same grade I believe)
In reply to The Crow:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> <devils advocate>
>
> It can't be E9,

without being offensive you cannot say it isn,t e9 until you have climbed the route or at the VERY least been on it.
in the 2 daves we have 2 of the worlds top trad climbers and they deserve the upmost respect and if they both think a given climb is e9 then that,ll do for me.
why the sniping when a hard route is done ?

was this the worlds hatdest confirmed trad route in 1992 then ?

congratulations dave and dave



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