"An interesting piece of trivia: due to the number of zones attained now taking priority over attempts to tops, Schubert won, but based on the old rules where attempts to tops took precedence over zones, Ondra would have won."
Indeed. I, for one, am glad to see this change because it means every boulder counts and the last one is more likely to determine the final results, as it did this time around.
a bit harsh not to mention Fanny Gibert’s incredible performance?
Could somebody in the know explain what the whole zones thing means?
A zone is a hold considered difficult to attain roughly halfway up a problem that helps to separate the field more than just using tops. It doesn't have to be particularly high, it could be the next hold after getting in/out of a tricky start position, for example. Used to be called a bonus hold, which to my mind is more self-explanatory!
It is a way of differentiating climbers who do not get to the top of the problem. Crudely think of it as credit for getting halfway (although in reality the zone is usually not halfway and is not actually a zone, it is a hold). Does that make sense?
A bonus hold, thanks! That makes much more sense!
Molly Thompson-Smith has become the first British woman to onsight 8b with an ascent of Odysseus at Götterwandl in Tyrol, Austria.