ARTICLE: Montane Alpine Preparation - The advantages of block leading

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 UKC Articles 12 Jul 2021

In this episode of Alpine Preparation, Rebecca Coles explains why you would choose to block lead when alpine climbing. She runs through the advantages and few tips which will ultimately help to speed you up when in the mountains.

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 Etta 12 Jul 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Didn't know the trick of flipping the rope over like that, will try it out next time!

Worth mentioning also:

- Block leading is important (if not essential) in situations where the second is not very experienced in leading or cannot lead harder grades

- Don't use the rope to build belays if you are block leading.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Laying the ropes across your belay is all very pretty, but not something you'd do if using an auto lock device, you'd just let them fall in a pile on the ledge. If block leading you'd just rapidly re-pile it on the ground(back coil), whilst the other takes a few bits of gear off the 2nds harness and off you go. The alps is about speed and simplicity, much of the time you don't trust the belays enough to direct belay, you might semi direct, or even just old school body belay a 2nd up straightforward terrain, it's fast. 


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