NEW ARTICLE: Movement Improvement

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 UKC Articles 26 Apr 2012
Bloodhound E2 5b, 3 kbIn this article instructor John kettle gives us a three-part guide to taking control of your climbing technique.

"For many the greatest satisfaction in their climbing comes from that elusive feeling of moving smoothly and lightly across difficult terrain. But when searching for improvement, it is all too easy to focus on the task of increasing strength and fitness and hope that good technique will somehow happen unprompted given sufficient mileage..."


 Tuborg 26 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks for the that. One of the most useful articles I've read. Never thought of it like that before.
 Rachel Slater 26 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

That's definitely not the crux of Bloodhound!!
 Alex Mason 26 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: Great Article, well worth a read.
 biscuit 26 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good to see you're getting the message out there John.

John really knows his theory ( as you can see from the article ) but is also a very good practical coach with an excellent manner and coaching style. If you're anywhere near the Lakes book him and improve your climbing.

I am glad things are going well and i hope to have a session with you at Kendal around the end of June when i'm back from Spain. I am sure bad habits have crept back in.
 Morgan P 26 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: Loved the article, most useful one I've read. Really explains the process of getting beyond the panic-and-then-technique-goes-to-shit problem many of us have.

 Heike 26 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:
Very interesting, thank you! My movement is probably rubbish and blighted by a lof those problems you mention. Will think of some the tips you mention more often (e.g. the overgripping, openhanding etc)

Just got one question, how is it that the best I have usually climbed is after some long sustained, e,g 6 weeks trips where I was climbing constantly and at the end it just felt effortless? I never thought of movement or anything (I am not the most nimble), but the best I have always climbed is when I am very fit and strong. Surely that must count for something? Just wondering...

 Ian Hinkins 27 Apr 2012
In reply to r fizzle:
As the climber pictured on Bloodhound, I can tell you that I deffinatly found that section to be the crux. Thanks again for the great photo John.
 Paul Evans 27 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:
I went to John for some coaching earlier this year, I have been climbing for nearly 30 years and have a recurrent dodgy elbow (only ever left, never right) which I suspected may be caused by bad technique / movement patterns.
Physio would sort the flareups but did nothing to address the underlying cause, so it would go away for a while and then return.
The session with John was really useful, he's an excellent coach, and gave me loads of useful pointers to improve my technique and avoid further injury.
In my situation I now have 30 years worth of bad engrams to unlearn, which is really hard work. So I would say to younger climbers who are thinking of getting some coaching "do it now, don't leave it as long as I did" It's much easier to develop good habits in the first place, than to un-learn bad ones!

 loz01 27 Apr 2012
In reply to Ian Hinkins:

It was the crux for me too!

Cheers, Loz
 John Kettle 27 Apr 2012
In reply to Heike: Thanks for the positive comments everyone, and Heike you are right - the fitter and stronger you are, the harder you can climb. I wrote this article because that fact is pretty common knowledge (hundreds of climbing fitness articles on the web), but many of the folk I coach don't realise how much they can improve their movement skills to get the most from their fitness. If you base skill levels of movement are better, you'll climb harder with the same fitness level, and of course as you increase fitness you'll get better still.
Also the closer you get to your 'fitness ceiling', the greater the risk of injuries, so you can end up with the injuries of pro's but without the impressive grades if you train hard but climb inefficiently.
Happy climbing!
 Pino 27 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: I enjoyed reading it and agree with it.
 luke glaister 29 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: it all makes sense when u think about it. will be booking in soon i thinks.
 imagist 29 Apr 2012
Great writing, thanks very much for the work involved.
 The Ivanator 30 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: Fantastic article, now I've just got to try and put some of those tips into practice ...if only the bloody weather would co-operate!
 progrupicola 02 May 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: Excellent article, and very much along the line of Dave Mcleod's coaching book,it seems obvious once you've read it though one can spend a life without realising it,this are the priceless tips¡
Many thanks

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