UKC

In the second article of our new series, Franco Cookson shares the story of his favourite route and an important milestone in his climbing career...

'I can't quite manage to turn my head to see Ian below, but I can tell he's enjoying this far more than me. His shouts of encouragement seem tinged with a hidden pleasure in my suffering, or more charitably perhaps, with the excitement in being able to share such an experience of self-discovery.'

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There appears to be some inconsistency with the grade. The title has Wombat graded E1 5a, the Rockfax photo has it at E1 5b and the footnote to the same photo has it at E1 5c 

Great piece of writing!

E1 6a in tight jeans.

By complete coincidence, the wombat is also my favourite marsupial.

A very well told story - keep them coming. 

Before I clicked on this I wondered if it might be an article by Andy Farnell.

I top-roped this route in July 1972, but it was only HVS then. Only been climbing 3 or 4 years and was pleased with myself if I led a severe in those days (not much worthwhile gear at the time). We looked at this route, and the nearby Scarecrow Crack, but thought leading them was above my pay grade. I can remember something of the rock and the shape of the climbs, and also recall that they didn’t seem to be as hard as expected. Never went back to lead them, though.

Enjoyed the climb(s) and the article.

p.s. Often wondered idly if, coming from that area, you could trace your ancestry back to Captain Cook?

Wombat, Wombat– what the hell's a Wombat?

It's the Marsupial with the Mostest.

Great story Franco and nice to remember Ian J. Such a loss.

He’d be 35 now, wonder what he’d be up to.