The classic Hard Severe, Terrier's Tooth, at Chair Ladder in West Penwith, Cornwall has been damaged by the brutal storms the UK expereienced during the winter. Both the starting ledge and the first pitch has fallen down though it is rumoured to still be climbable.
Get back under your bridge. This had unprotected technical moves in highball position. There are quite a few easier and certainly many less scary VS climbs out there.
> Get back under your bridge. This had unprotected technical moves in highball position. There are quite a few easier and certainly many less scary VS climbs out there.
I think they were, at least at some point - or at least, the guide did that ambiguous description along the lines of "this can also be climbed direct, slightly harder" without mentioning it's about 3 grades harder.
In reply to Offwidth: My 2000 guide has the proper quartz vein start as HS 4b which was arguably about right but it mentions that all starts used to be given VD. The middle groove start is given as 4a which was probably a bit tough at VD. The right start which traverses left a long way is correctly VD but totally misses the point and makes the route feel disjointed.
Can somebody please post a before and after photo.
The right hand start was fairly sporting at V Diff. The more direct start was 'only' 4b but the protection left a lot to be desired. HS sounds a bit cruel for what is a VS proposition.
This was my 1st HS lead (only 2nd HS, first HS clean). As i led the third pitch, i presume i led the 1st (can't remember), if so i would have done the right hand start. Can't remember struggling on any of it, so it may be a bit soft at HS?
Am very interested to see what grade it goes at once someone establishes a new 1st pitch.
I climbed this yesterday, roughly following the line of pitch 1a in the CC guide. It seemed clean and solid, although with spaced protection. I estimate Severe 4a, two stars. I'll put a description in my logbook, thus: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2005
> Get back under your bridge. This had unprotected technical moves in highball position. There are quite a few easier and certainly many less scary VS climbs out there.
Agreed - hdog is just showing total lack of judgement. It's not big, it's not clever.
In other news, Ra at Carn Barra looks like it's lost a large chunk of the crack between the first and second ledges - it looks more like an open groove. We didn't climb it so I've no idea if the grade has changed.
Mermaid's Route at Chair Ladder also looks like it's lost a big chunk of pitch one. There's a large area of red rock below where you step across Buccaneer that I'm pretty sure didn't look like that when I was last there - it's possible that the whole of the lower buttress has slipped.
I've not done it but I thought the original start - not the run out 4b start - was VD. I don't think hdog deserves these reproaches Offwidth, Jonny2vests and Rog Wilko.
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