Great pics and awesome ascent
Her Instagram has many pics or her climbing offwidths so the comment in the article claiming this is her first one isn't correct.
'Also, in Norway we have salty liquorice and you Brits are missing out.'
Ah, salty Licorice one of lifes great pleasures
> Her Instagram has many pics or her climbing offwidths so the comment in the article claiming this is her first one isn't correct.
Maybe it's been edited since you posted, but it does say "first grit offwidth".
> She was forced to go back once again.
This implies she got it on the third attempt, which is wildly impressive all by itself!
I commend to everyone's attention the wonderful "Best Forgotten Art", the finale of which features many big name climbers having a picnic and taking turns to fail on Ray's.
If I have a packet I find I can't stop eating them but I don't actually enjoy the experience.
Any mention of Ray Jardine and cracks automatically conjures up `this' image to me...
And appropriately enough, Salvesen's tested herself on that too: https://www.instagram.com/p/BbIrRd5HgqL/
> And appropriately enough, Salvesen's tested herself on that too: https://www.instagram.com/p/BbIrRd5HgqL/
I didn't know. Thanks for that. Very impressive! (although for someone of my vintage there's something special about that 70s Cali combo of long blond hair and EBs...)
E7 ? I thought it was a much lower grade reflecting it's origins as a 'US off width' and a total sandbag for UK climbers
> This implies she got it on the third attempt, which is wildly impressive all by itself!
> I commend to everyone's attention the wonderful "Best Forgotten Art", the finale of which features many big name climbers having a picnic and taking turns to fail on Ray's.
You've got to love a 3min trailer in which, by 30secs in, you're already shouting at the screen "FFS Johnny, stop talking bollocks and climb something!!" And then he does an extraordinary jump start straight into a jam/splits.
This has been up for six hours and nobody's brought attention to:
> Normal beta is deep fisting
What is UKC coming to?
> Now that's inspiring! How many ascents is this, total, now? Dream route.
Hmmmm, good question. I'm going to guess at names and ascents!
Ray Jardine (incidentally, he emphatically denies ever calling it Ray's Roof, and said it was named Baldstones Roof, something which has annoyed him for some time..)
Rob from Sheffield (sorry, can't remember your surname just now, but amazingly good climber/dark horse)
Ryan Pasquill (climbed second go, could've flashed if the gear hadn't got in the way)
Pete Whittaker (obvs)
Tom Randall (also obvs)
Andi Turner (handsome beast, climbed it on midsummer's day at about 10pm)
I'm sure there're others, but these are the ones I know!
Google tells me Jardine originally graded it 5.11c, which I believe would translate roughly as E4 or E5.
However, "US offwidths" do have some interesting grading traditions, and are notorious for sandbagging US climbers too.
One thing I have always wondered is whether offwidths are really all sandbags or if the problem is that most people just don't get used to climbing them.
I always get brutalised by offwidths but I suspect it is just a consequence of climbing them once or twice a year.
Username suggests I like the same routes as you.
Hah, quite illustrious company there all things considered! I would love to get on it one day.
Loved watching Johnny get on it in the video (queue twinkly magical music..), he's about to do something inspiring..! Tension builds.. he does a crazy spinny around thing.. could it be, is that the way..? Nope, music stops and he pops out. But he had me for a minute. Classic.
> One thing I have always wondered is whether offwidths are really all sandbags or if the problem is that most people just don't get used to climbing them.
Or both, possibly? There's an interesting interview with Danny Parker (did the third ascent of Century Crack, founded the "Offwidth Army") on the podcast "Hangdog Days", where he gives his opinion tht grading of offwidths in the US is kind of a mess, and in some areas a deliberate joke/sandbag.
He has a story about how Bob Scarpelli and Brad Jackson used to downgrade their new routes at the end of the day -- "Nah, more like 12a." "Nah, 11d." "Could be more like 11c." -- until they hit the grade where they started laughing, and that'd be where it stuck.
But lack of practice/skill is definitely a huge issue too; it's a completely different set of techniques to learn (especially if you get into the inverted stuff).
> Username suggests I like the same routes as you.
Bit of a giveaway, yes. Unfortunately for me (and my climbing partners), I also like offwidths. I'm not claiming to be good at them, I just suffer from a tragic compulsion to wedge myself into them, so I'm trying to get less terrible in order to mitigate the suffering.
I've always been led to believe its not really licorice, rather a purely artificial concoction based on ammonium chloride, but actually wikipedia does suggest that in some versions at least liquorice root is involved.
It is one of the more interesting flavours out there - how exactly it helps you climb Ray's Roof though, I'm not quite sure. For many Brits it might be in an effort to get away from the salmiakki!
Well done Mari.
It is made by frrding slugs nothing but licorice for a year, then killing them by putting salt on them. That's what I will be telling my daughter anyway. After she has eaten one.
> "...Normal beta is deep fisting"
Damn, Alex beat me to it.