/ NEWS: Robbie Phillips Completes the Alpine Trilogy

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UKC News 21 Aug 2019
Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has completed the 'Alpine Trilogy', a trio of the hardest multipitch rock climbs in Europe, by climbing Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+ in Austria.

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1
Niall Grimes 21 Aug 2019

That's really fantastic. Wow!

Ricardo 21 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Well done....although saw this already in The Times on Saturday?!!

2
JLS 21 Aug 2019
In reply to Ricardo:

The Times and their spoilers, what are they like!  

Wft 21 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Really impressive 

Rab6t 21 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Awesome effort and sustained commitment, well done.

hwackerhage 22 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

Congratulations Robbie, very impressive! "Des Kaisers neue Kleider" is on the Fleischbank, a huge, classic  cliff in the Wilder Kaiser mountain range. The exposure must have been phenomenal. The classic of the cliff is the pre-WW2 Dülfer (Alpine 6). UK climbers can fly to Munich and from there it is >2 h to the Kaiser. 

Tyler 22 Aug 2019
In reply to UKC News:

This is some achievement. 

Does anyone know if there are routes of a similar nature (good rock, continuous climbing, lots of bolts) but at a much easier grade in any of these three places?

Post edited at 11:10
hwackerhage 22 Aug 2019
In reply to hwackerhage:

Sorry <2 h!

DaveHK 23 Aug 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> This is some achievement. 

> Does anyone know if there are routes of a similar nature (good rock, continuous climbing, lots of bolts) but at a much easier grade in any of these three places?

The Ratikon certainly has plenty to choose from at easier grades. The rock is amazing.

Galadriel (VIII-)

Post edited at 07:02
Toerag 23 Aug 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

I wouldn't have said Viii- is 'much easier'

DaveHK 23 Aug 2019
In reply to Toerag:

> I wouldn't have said Viii- is 'much easier'

Silbergeier is 8b+ and Galadriel is 6c+/7a. I think that's a pretty significant grade difference and it's certainly a grade that's open to lots of people these days.

Post edited at 14:32
AJM 23 Aug 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

It is, although if it feels anything like Wendenstocke I expect it to feel almost nothing like most cragging 6c+/7as!

(I've done or tried 3 different things at Wenden and my takeaway is that I do a cross-conversion to an E grade and see how I feel about either that E grade or +1 on it

DaveHK 23 Aug 2019
In reply to AJM:

I've not climbed on the Wendenstocke but I've heard tales. I didn't think those Ratikon routes were scary exposed and from memory all the ones we did seemed to be fairly well equipped.

AJM 23 Aug 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

That's interesting to know. There's nominally easier routes at Wenden, but our experience on them meant I'd put Ratikon on the back burner on the assumption the experience would be similar but at a higher grade.

Magnificent place though, Wenden. 

Tyler 24 Aug 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

Thanks Dave, I hear good things about Ratikon Inthe media but do not think I know anyone who's actually been l. Maybe one for me to sort a trip out to

Robbie_Phillips 24 Aug 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Hey guys, so from my experience of the areas, Ratikon has the best quality rock of the three. "Silbergeier" was bullet hard limestone, very clean and from what I heard about other climbs in the area, they were mostly similar. Also pretty run-out and people tend to bring a bit of extra gear for certain climbs, although I didn't bring any trad gear for "Silbergeier" as you mostly don't need it.

The Fuerhondl where "End of Silence" is, is also a really amazing place. I definitely thought the rock quality was a little worse, but still pretty good. 

The Fleischbank in the Wilder Kaiser had the lowest quality rock. I also had a day on another 8c multipitch there and the rock wasn't great on that either, but there is definitely patches of Verdon-esque limestone amidst the dirtier bits. All in all though, the exposure is wild, the location beautiful, so you really can't complain  

Tyler 24 Aug 2019
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:

Thanks Robbie and we'll done on the trilogy


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