In reply to pamplemouse:
> (In reply to Jamie Bankhead)
> [...]
>
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> In dry tooling you are essentially converting monos and tiny crimps, or fingertip cracks into jugs by using axes. You are also increasing your reach significantly by interposing a metal shaft between you and the hold.
> This is why people conflate DT with aid climbing.
> It is surely a retrograde step unless you are heading in towards ice.
>
Of course dry tooling is contrived, but that doesn't render it worthless or unacceptable But misunderstood by the masses, yes it certainly is. Many (not all) DT routes follow lines created by manufactured pick placements. These lines would have insufficient features to facilitate "free climbing". Closer to home, take the tube at Newtyle for example. Totally artificial, but what's wrong with that? Yes, there is an established sport route (Hurley Burley 8B). But that is also a completely artificial route with drilled holds, so in my opinion is in no way superior. A retrograde step perhaps? However, there is an unwritten agreement amongst all who DT at Newtyle that this route will be preserved as a "sport-only" route. Cool, no problem.
So, you see, we all play our contived part in whatever aspect of this utterly bizare and diverse game we play. You pays your money you takes your choice. Lets all learn to love one another. Peace man
Jim