> (In reply to UKC News)
> You seriously mean that he downclimbed it? Have I misunderstood something?
The news report is quite clear:
"MacLeod climbed the route to within 6m of the top, but found he had run out of gear. Desperate to keep the onsight, he reversed the whole pitch, removing the gear, without falling and returned to the ground."
> (In reply to Scarab)
> The news report is quite clear:
> "MacLeod climbed the route to within 6m of the top, but found he had run out of gear. Desperate to keep the onsight, he reversed the whole pitch, removing the gear, without falling and returned to the ground."
In reply to UKC News:
Really impressed, not just by the repeats ... but also by managing to remove the gear in winter. I thought Andy would have had to have waited until summer.
Descended down the line between Neil and Garth working the line. All the in situ gear was deeply, deeply encased in thick clear ice. e.g. No way you'd have excavated that buried wired hex. (Didn't they originally get placed in summer?). So must have been very much drier in those cracks this year, as opposed to climbing up shallow dinks in the ice?
I think Dave has just got so good at climbing up now that he wants to take down climbing to a new level.....
I always found climbing down harder so surely the grade should be technical 10 for the downclimb but probably overall grade only 8 because gravity is on his side
I thought it was a bit unfair to leave all that gear behind to rot away for the 2nd ascencionist to remove. I'm all for new style of mixed and so on, but it feels a bit out of place to leave the gear in-situ. Anyways, I don't know much about scottish mixed...
I would imagine the gear placed on lead pretty poor, so perhaps the Chief did not want to test it!
Again this is really ground breaking, i don't think the general climbing public really appreciate how difficult this route would be to onsight, never mind downclimb from up on high.
In the mid 90's i absieled down this wall with Gresham, it looked futuristic, beyond the capabilities of the day, the seed sown, he returned a few years later to climb it in such a controversial style, i think the belief was that it would never be onsighted.
Also remember Garth worked this and still came away emptyhanded, hes no slouch.
So in short quite an outstanding effort, cutting edge on a world scale,
Dave i think it is time to buy that family size trifle! you have earned it.
Fri Night Vid Hidden Masters: A Route Setting Documentary
This week's Friday Night Video is an insight into the job of a competition route setter. Arguably, the job is harder than ever with a huge range of specialisations and the elite level of top climbers. The film looks into the level of...