UKC

Sam Prior has climbed Serenata 8C, on Impossible Roof at Roche Abbey.

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Maybe an appropriate place to recommend Sam’s podcast with Aidan Roberts, Careless Talk. Their recent episode with Billy and Alex following their ascent of The Nose is great. 

Is the access still sensitive at Roche Abbey? The RAD notes from this year read: "These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jepordize this."

Roche Abbey

It sounds like it's one not to publicise on ukc, unless the situation has improved.

I don't think anything has officially changed but I've climbed there loads of times both day time and with lamps and never been challenged, neither has anyone else I know. I think the grade range stops the masses. Those with plenty of experience know to keep a low profile and keep it clean. As long as noone starts topping out the problems between gypsy lane and the abbey I suspect we will continue to be ignored.

(Worth noting that sometimes the gate gets shut to the beef buttress car park in the evening so park on gypsy lane to avoid getting locked in.)