In reply to Mark Collins:
> I liked that a lot, thanks for sharing. Kilnsey best crag in the UK, difficult to argue against but makes me wonder if he's been to Malham and what he thought of that.
I can imagine he might have been to Malham but still preferred Kilnsey. I love both but Malham is a bit fickle conditions-wise (the number of days I have spent there waiting for the shade to roll around the catwalk....). And, even the classics have some horribly unpleasant holds. Kilnsey is a bit more straight-forward in terms of style and suitability whatever the weather (once it dries out).
That said, I like Jose's comment about Kilnsey - "sometimes it is wet apparently" - I suspect he has been pretty lucky with his days there!
Personally, I do think you have had the full Kilnsey experience until a red-point has been thwarted after all the hard climbing by a hold falling off.