UKC

'At this stage I would do each move in isolation about once every ten or so attempts in good conditions' - Alex Moore on his ascent of Smiling Buttress, twelve years after Tyler Landman made the first ascent.

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Awesome work Alex!

Should the headline read (and grade now be) 8B+ as Tyler didn't grade it and the other grades were just speculation? Seems Alex is the first person to both climb the line and suggest a grade.

“I actually never watched the video of Ty after I touched the holds, it's just not useful – kinda like watching a Blue Peter presenter saying "here's one I made earlier" while pulling a to-scale replica of Sistine Chaple from under a desk and me feeling hopeless looking at a pile of loo rolls and PVA glue.”

I like this man’s style…

That's definitely an 8B+/8C extended metaphor

Good effort Alex, i didnt realise A. it was only the second ascent and B. it was so hard. It's an aesthetic bit of rock. Grade it what you like, no one can tell you otherwise! It's interesting to read about the little refinements that made it possible, ive never really understood this process very well and often walk away pretty quickly if things dont feel possible. Occasionally i get that eureka moment where you get a thumb on or use a hold sightly differently, but its rare. Chapeau