UKC

Paul Sagar presents urban Scandinavian sport climbing - and some DWS - in Sweden's capital, Stockholm.

When it comes to European sport climbing getaways, there are places that immediately spring to mind: Kalymnos, El Chorro, Mallorca, Siurana, Sicily. What they all have in common is their hot Mediterranean location, with reliable weather and more limestone than you can shake a clip stick at.

A place that probably doesn't spring to mind when considering a sport climbing holiday is Stockholm. Who goes north to clip bolts?

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I've climbed in some odd places over the years but Stockholm does quite well in that respect.  Haggsta is one of the oldest developed crags in the area I was told, and the climbing good and normal. But you park in he car park for a crematorium and massive cemetery and walk through it to get to the crag. A bit odd.

But  Munchenbryggeriet was my fave - it is literally in a down town carpark. With a head torch to help the street and car park lights, we climbed there on a November night. http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2010/11/urban-climbing-stockholm.html

And pictures of it in better weather and light: https://27crags.com/crags/munchenbryggeriet/photos

Helsinki is quite similar in many ways, although the most urban climbing there tends to be bouldering. There is sport and trad in the city limits though. Never got a tick in Helsinki, although they do have them in Finland - particularly in the islands going out in the Baltic towards Sweden, so that makes sense.

If you're actually looking at visiting Stockholm for sport climbing, here are a few things to consider. 

The crags are spread out over a large area. Hiring a car is the best option. Not cheap. You can go by public transport but this may take a large chunk out of you're day. 

Where to stay. Unfortunately there are no climbing cabins or camp grounds for climbers to meet after the day's activities.  Everyone is local, so we all go home. 

If you're looking for Trad climbing don't even consider Stockholm.  Go west to Bohuslän. 

I really don't want to seem negative, I'm just being realistic.   

So save you're hard earned money and climb somewhere else.