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/ NEWS: Stoking the fire, 3rd 9b for Jakob Schubert

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UKC News - on 06 Jan 2018
Jakob Schubert on Stoking the fire, 9b, Santa Linya, 4 kbJakob Schubert has made the third ascent, after Chris Sharma (2013) and Adam Ondra (2016), of Stoking the fire, 9b, at Santa Linya, Catalonia.

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stp - on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Impressive stuff. Only Sharma and Ondra have done more 9b's.

I wonder if Sharma's nearby 2009 route, Neanderthal, will get it's long awaited second ascent this year?
progrupicola on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to stp:

Stefano Ghisolfi has three too:

Lapsus F.A. (Repited & confirmed by Ondra)
One slap (Second ascenct after Ondra)
First round first minute (After Sharma, Ondra & Megos)

Surely Megos idiosyncratic approach to hard climbing (he prefers to make quick ascents, 'like 9a+ in two or three tries', than spending a bit more of time on harder climbs) it's the reason behind his 9b scarceness...
Anyway, for sure the 9b club remains a select one, so big congrats to Jackob for the big tick (He's a beast!).



Strife - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to stp:

I remember Sharma saying in an interview a few years ago (2012?) that he thought Neanderthal was low end 9b. Interesting that no-one else has managed it yet
MischaHY - on 09 Jan 2018
In reply to Strife:

I get the impression it's a very basic strength endurance style. Perhaps this is something that requires you to be operating at a slightly higher level in order to repeat it quickly, or be quite specialised?
stp - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to progrupicola:

I'm not sure about Lapsus. Don't think Ondra found it that hard but made some comment about being taller probably helped as I recall. I did wonder if he was just saying that because he didn't want to down grade his friend's long term project. But just idle speculation on my part so who knows?

But I think Ghisolfi is very close to doing La Capella now so that'll definitely give him the lead behind Sharma and Ondra with 4 9b's if he's successful.

I think Megos has tried some other 9b's - El Bonne Combat and La Planta de Shiva - and obviously didn't finish them for whatever reason. The speed which he's done certain 9a+'s is extraordinary though.
stp - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to Strife:

Apparently Jakob tried Neanderthal but couldn't do it at the moment because it was soaking wet, so maybe it's often like that. He just did another 9a+ at Santa Linya though, Catxasa.
Knut R. - on 10 Jan 2018
In reply to stp:
Nice work by Jakob! 3 9b's is impressive. It's a small club indeed.

AFAIK, Megos has done two 9bs: First Round First Minute, and the FA of Fightclub.
Post edited at 23:00
remus - on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to Strife:

> I remember Sharma saying in an interview a few years ago (2012?) that he thought Neanderthal was low end 9b. Interesting that no-one else has managed it yet

Ondra has been exceedingly close. Last year he fell off a hands off rest after the jump move when a hold snapped.

progrupicola on 11 Jan 2018
In reply to stp:

Yes, you're right, I also remember reading Ondra's comment about Lapsus. So, it may turn to be considered easier in the future and doesn't qualify as 9b anymore.

Sorry for the off-topic remark, but talking about the difficulty range between routes of the 'same' grade, McClure's 9b seems to be a tough one! to me he's also at the peak of the red point specialization.

Post edited at 14:42

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