UKC

/ SKILLS: Technique - Use of the Toe

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UKC Articles - on 28 Jun 2018
Smedging on a tiny screw-on. , 4 kbIn this article, Neil Gresham examines the main ways to use the toe. Most will know the basic definitions, so instead he focusses on common errors and key tips for improvement.

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vries007 on 29 Jun 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good article, I think the balancy stuff is very much underrated for beginners who don't have the experience, and powerful climbers who don't need balance much until they reach their limits in power-endurance.

I miss the wall/hold-smedging technique with small holds. It's a good choice for small slabby footholds. You start with aiming the toe-part of the shoe "inbetween" the wall and the hold, then gently pushing down and bringing your weight upon it. This molds the rubber in the tiny bit of corner that's available thus maximizing friction and available surface from both wall and hold. Apply with care if you don't want to resole every few weeks.


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