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IN FOCUS: The Ghost of Bonatti - A Brief History of the Petit Dru Rock Scar

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 UKC Articles 27 May 2021

Will Sim writes about the history of major rockfalls on the Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc Massif, and climbing new routes on its iconic grey streak...

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 Doug 27 May 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

Interesting but wasn't the west face first climbed by Guido magnone & colleagues in 1952, repeated in a much faster time by Joe Brown & Don Whillans a couple of years later & maybe before Bonatti climbed his pillar

 C Witter 10 Jun 2021
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm fairly sure Bonatti would take offense at the claim that he used "hundreds of steel pegs and wooden bongs." I don't have Mountains of My Life to hand, but I remember that he explicitly criticises a similar suggestion and states that he used a far more modest number of pegs (around 30).

 Pedro50 10 Jun 2021
In reply to C Witter:

Page 116, he set off with 79 pitons and 6 wooden wedges and certainly had quite a few left at the summit. So not hundreds.

 C Witter 10 Jun 2021
In reply to Pedro50:

Thanks for the correction!

 Albert Tatlock 10 Jun 2021
In reply to C Witter:

By the time it fell down there were hundreds of pegs in the pillar.

 Pedro50 10 Jun 2021
In reply to C Witter:

> Thanks for the correction!

Not at all I was supporting your viewpoint.

 C Witter 11 Jun 2021
In reply to Albert Tatlock:

Something Bonatti writes about, as undermining the experience of mountaineering in various ways.


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