UKC

There are few routes on Grit that stand quite as proud as Valkyrie. There are also few routes on Grit that offer quite as much of an adventure because Valkyrie has it all: it goes up, down, sideways, around the corner, then up again. As a result of this it feels quite atypical of its Gritstone setting, as it requires the skills you'd ordinarily require for a multi-pitch route in the mountains, and as a result isn't for the faint-hearted - or the inexperienced. It has an exposure to match the mountains, feeling remarkably out there, and as a result of this is a truly unforgettable route. 

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I hope this article leads to a discussion about retreating by jumping off the belay ledge....

In reply to camstoppa:

Not guilty, squire. 

One of my first VS leads.  Ended up leading both pitches as my climbing partner fell off leading the second pitch, and retreated back to the belay. Great climb.

Well that was a wonderful video, well done!! I hope to see more like this in the future!

I remember doing this with a mate after a good day at the Roaches (maybe my first?). It was getting dark, so we decided he'd lead it in one pitch as the grade should be comfortable - a tremendously bad idea if anyone was wondering. He had horrendous rope drag, and then because of that drag I basically soloed pitches 1 and 2 (up and left) and was only back on for the last stretch up to the top of the pillar. Smashing day out!

I remember climbing this on maybe my second or third ever day on grit. I fluffed the first pitch and got tired (didn't know how to do things like jam at the time) so lowered back to the ground. I got up it at the second time of asking but then belayed somewhere weird in a semi-hanging stance, just below the big comfortable belay. Found the second pitch desperate as well, regardless of the top-rope. The pair before us were Rob and Win from our club and rob popped the question at the top. I don't think they climb much anymore but expecting their first baby soon.

I revisited it a couple of years later when I had a bit more mileage on Gods own and found it a lot more amenable. My partner at the time had a couple of nightmares after about the flake downclimb! As you're getting further and further down, it just feels more and more like you're falling off into space. 

It's definitely VS but I'd argue that it is harder than Pebbledash nextdoor. For sure the biggest adventure on grit at VS.

this was my first lead on grit. I was regularly leading E2 on limestone, so thought I’d nip up and tick off a classic with ease. I got the shock of my life, not helped by not taking the right pro which led to some sketchy moments.

Memorable for all sorts of reasons.

Seems to be derigeur to have to have a party on the ground to relay instructions between the leader and second on pitch 2 !

I'd argue that the traverse on Pebbledash is technically harder than any move on Valkyrie but the intimidation factor (down the flake into the unknown) means that Pebbledash is probably an easier onsight lead.

Pebbledash used to be graded VS 5a which to me felt correct.

My first lead fall, from the first pitch. Leaning too far out on over ambitious hand jam. Inversion and twist ground the skin off my nose on the descent. Bham Uni coach trip