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/ DESTINATION GUIDE: The Yorkshire Coast

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UKC Articles - on 13:53 Mon
Playful Climbing At A Serious Height - On The FA Of Archaeopteryx , 3 kbA decade ago there was no climbing documented on the sea cliffs north of Filey. In recent years the wealth of crags along the 50 miles or so of this coastline have gradually given themselves to a broad mix of venues, each unique in character and each endowed with a handful of superb routes and problems.

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Rob F - on 20:44 Mon
In reply to UKC Articles:

Anyone been to Filey Brigg recently? Just wondering what the bolts were looking like. Last entries on ukc seem to be around 2014. Cheers.

craig h - on 22:23 Mon
In reply to UKC Articles:

Not really a destination guide for punters, shame really.

Franco Cookson on 22:45 Mon
In reply to craig h:

Indeed. The coastline hasn't had very many top draw easy routes and problems established and you're right that it's probably best to visit if you're operating font 6a / HVS and above. They might be there to be developed, but they'd need uncovering. I maybe should have explained that in the introduction. Sorry!

Other parts of the Moors are very good at the lower grades, so keep an eye out in the future for more on that.

 

Simon Caldwell - on 10:19 Tue
In reply to craig h:

Not been there yet but Smugglers Terrace looks worth a visit for bumblies though probably not more than one.

Went to Filey once to climb the easy trad, it wasn't worth the journey.

Ardo - on 11:27 Tue
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

The journey to Filey is always worth it! Climbing there is just a bonus. ;-)

Frank the Husky - on 13:42 Tue
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good to see this article, and I'm excited about the new guide. I've tried to find the buttri (excellent use of the word) of Smuggler's Terrace a couple of times but have always struggled. I get to the yellow topped post on the clifftop and then descend, rapdily losing sight of everything and I've never found any climbable crags. Any clues about when to stop on the descent would be gratefully received.

I remember doing Central Crack at Stoupe in 2002/3. I'd seen the crag from the old railway line a few times and did it on one of my many trips to the coast to escape the world. It needed a bit of a clean at the top but was otherwise pretty climbable. I don't know if that was the FA, I assumed that it "must have" been climbed before, especially as lines had been done on the boulders. The bolts weren't in Fire Dance at that point because I droped a rope down it and had a quick shunt but didn't really get anywhere. I did consider the crag to be an ideal bolting project, but never did anything about it. And thank goodness for that.

 

 

Frank the Husky - on 13:44 Tue
In reply to craig h:

By the looks of it, Smuggler's is an easier venue, but I've never found it - however I've only looked twice, once in poor light and once when I only had an hour before having to leave. Smuggler's has a perfect campervan spot on the approach road:- bins, benches and a toilet that's open 365 days a year.

cczsy on 17:16 Tue
In reply to Frank the Husky:

anyone know when this new guide is being published? who by?

Frank the Husky - on 18:29 Tue
In reply to cczsy:

By "Mr Moors" himself, Franco. I don't know the publication date.

freemanTom - on 20:46 Wed
In reply to UKC Articles:

Inspired a trip to Boulby today. Not a bad spot. I have been to Smugglers a couple of times. Decent venue, plenty to go at vs/HVS. Some of the top outs leave a lot to be desired. 

Franco Cookson on 06:03 Thu
In reply to Frank the Husky:

> Good to see this article, and I'm excited about the new guide. I've tried to find the buttri (excellent use of the word) of Smuggler's Terrace a couple of times but have always struggled. I get to the yellow topped post on the clifftop and then descend, rapdily losing sight of everything and I've never found any climbable crags. Any clues about when to stop on the descent would be gratefully received.

Keep heading NW for 450m, past the house on the left, to where the cliff path turns right (almost due N). Descend down an actual public footpath (roughly 984,017 on the map).

> I remember doing Central Crack at Stoupe in 2002/3. I'd seen the crag from the old railway line a few times and did it on one of my many trips to the coast to escape the world. It needed a bit of a clean at the top but was otherwise pretty climbable. I don't know if that was the FA, I assumed that it "must have" been climbed before, especially as lines had been done on the boulders. The bolts weren't in Fire Dance at that point because I droped a rope down it and had a quick shunt but didn't really get anywhere. I did consider the crag to be an ideal bolting project, but never did anything about it. And thank goodness for that.

This is amazing! Thanks so much for the info - I knew someone must have climbed there before! I will amend the FA details. So Firedance must have been bolted 2002-2009, which makes sense, as the bolts look bomber. Very, very odd though. 

Frank the Husky - on 16:22 Thu
In reply to Franco Cookson:

Thanks. Is that 450m NW from the yellow topped post? I'll be there in the next few weeks anyway so I'll explore.

As for Central Crack, it would be excellent if I was the FA. I wouldn't have called it Central Crack though...I like less descriptive names. If there's a chance of chanig it I have a couple of better names up my sleeve...

It really is odd just to bolt the one line and no more, especially that that grade.

Dave Warburton - on 20:49 Thu
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Unless someone has moved the post - i popped that in to mark the descent!

It should be found by walking north west from the parking. You pass a red brick house on the left few a couple of hundred metres, then you pass a little bush on the left relative to the footpath. A slight downhill, and a second bush should have you next to the yellow-topped marker post. From here, its a walk down back in a southerly direction down reasonbly steep ground in between the trees. The path has always been easy to folllow - though i have not been to Smugglers for a good 2 years and maybe it was us keeping it in order!

Once the path levels out on the plateau you shouldn't be able to miss it. There's a mini guide with a bit of a topo if you've not already seen it?

http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/smugglers-terrace-mini-guide.html

 

 


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