In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) That's quite amazing - he makes the holds all look big! Do you have any idea how long he had to work it before sending? I'm amazed at the complexity of the climbing so wondered how long it takes to work out every little foot readjustment or kneedrop in such a complex route.
From his blog (www.magnusmidtboe.com) you get som of the answers:
August 29th, 2010
Finally did it! More than three weeks of working the route in the ali baba cave. I am so relieved! I only had one and a half days left in Rodellar - perfect timing. I was so close yesterday, so I knew that I could do it today if I wasn't too tired. I rested the whole day as usual and I did it on my first try of the day. I felt very strong - it didn't feel as desperate as before! I also had good conditions. There was a nice breeze for the first time in a while. I have never put so much time towards a climb before. It sure payed off in the end. For those of you who have seen Dani Andrada on film trying the route, I do it a little different. I climbed the first part without a rope, but with a harness. When I got to the rest at the end of ali baba sit start I got a rope clipped into my harness with a carabiner. Dani got someone to put the harness, with the rope on him.
As far as I know it is the second ascent of the route, and the second confirmed 9b in the world!
Credit to Sasha for coming with me to the cave every evening at prime time!
Tomorrow I will go back to the cave to get some better photos and maybe even film. We will wake up early so that we can get some onsight climbing in at piscineta first!
Will upload more photos and info soon...