In reply to UKC News:
Hi again,
Just a further small point. The description to Storms Over Africa reads:
Storms Over Africa E6 6b
The arete is sustained and very bold. Climb the slanting crack (Toru clearly does too, and is unavoidable) to join the arete. Layback directly up using small crystals on the left to stay in balance. (Note: It is only the left of the arete is mentioned. The description then goes on to say in brackets...) (It is possible to use a thin crack just left of the next route (Boysen's Cracks) to finish; this reduces the grade to E5 6a)
Clearly Toru has climbed the E5 6a variation in the video. Storms Over Africa stays on the left of the arete all the way to the top.
Note also: The peg at one third height was eliminated by me when I repeated my route soon after making he first ascent.
All said, I really enjoyed the video of Toru on this arete, he is a talented climber and I hope he will return to climb the other aretes to the left... Question Mark and both sides of the Pre-marital Tension arete too.
I thought I should mention the above, just for historical accuracy and help your very good report. Thanks again.
Mark