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The last week before Christmas is here. I hope you have all been training very hard in a last minute bid to persuade Santa you have been a good little trainer in 2017. No-one wants to wake up on Christmas morning and find a lump of coal in their chalkbag...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=675628
TheFasting: Sounds like the climbing technique is coming along well- your footwork definitely seems more assured in the videos. Really good to see things coming together!
guy127917: Hopefully the novelty of a new programme lasts a while
Si dH: The last fb routine I had from Robin O'Leary had a similar volume- I could never get through a full session. Do you think these uber-sessions programmes are supposed to be aspirational/best effort?
AlanLittle: Hope the illness didn't last too long this week?
Tyler: Good to hear you enjoyed the trip, sounds like the fire is stoked for a winter of training?
mrchewy: Good to hear the shoulder is progressing and you have another trip to keep your rehab psyche levels high
AJM: Love that cheating on that problem downgrades it to 'Lance' Armstrong!
Powderpuff: Good plan keeping your goals achievable. For your phase 1 sounds like climbing as much as you can is probably a good strategy- how will you know when you are 'fit' (ie done with phase 1)?
mattrm: What are the top 4 weaknesses?
biscuit: I'm sure Tyler will be thrilled you are learning from him.
LauraMorrissey: Sounds like a pretty packed week!
Jen: How did the first week of the plan go?
Ally Smith: Definite -1 point for this gem "So f*cking weak"
hms: Super annoying to get an injury at the start of your programme- do you have diagnosis?
the sheep: Great to hear to you are on track.
Dandan82: Not if the reason you take mince pies to the office is so you don't eat them all yourself at home...
Tom Green: Ooh... any news on the new route front?
Curious Yellow: Great stuff- was that at one of the London walls?
leon: Definitely good to keep the goals realistic at this time of year!
Just Tintin: Do you keep track of your position in the WBL?
Climbthatpitch: Well done, it's definitely good to log consistently!
AWOL: Planetmarshall
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=675628
TheFasting: Sounds like the climbing technique is coming along well- your footwork definitely seems more assured in the videos. Really good to see things coming together!
guy127917: Hopefully the novelty of a new programme lasts a while
Si dH: The last fb routine I had from Robin O'Leary had a similar volume- I could never get through a full session. Do you think these uber-sessions programmes are supposed to be aspirational/best effort?
AlanLittle: Hope the illness didn't last too long this week?
Tyler: Good to hear you enjoyed the trip, sounds like the fire is stoked for a winter of training?
mrchewy: Good to hear the shoulder is progressing and you have another trip to keep your rehab psyche levels high
AJM: Love that cheating on that problem downgrades it to 'Lance' Armstrong!
Powderpuff: Good plan keeping your goals achievable. For your phase 1 sounds like climbing as much as you can is probably a good strategy- how will you know when you are 'fit' (ie done with phase 1)?
mattrm: What are the top 4 weaknesses?
biscuit: I'm sure Tyler will be thrilled you are learning from him.
LauraMorrissey: Sounds like a pretty packed week!
Jen: How did the first week of the plan go?
Ally Smith: Definite -1 point for this gem "So f*cking weak"
hms: Super annoying to get an injury at the start of your programme- do you have diagnosis?
the sheep: Great to hear to you are on track.
Dandan82: Not if the reason you take mince pies to the office is so you don't eat them all yourself at home...
Tom Green: Ooh... any news on the new route front?
Curious Yellow: Great stuff- was that at one of the London walls?
leon: Definitely good to keep the goals realistic at this time of year!
Just Tintin: Do you keep track of your position in the WBL?
Climbthatpitch: Well done, it's definitely good to log consistently!
AWOL: Planetmarshall
7
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. I think I've got very lucky with the finger. It has gone from incredibly painful at the start of the week to pretty much normal now, after heavy taping and lots of ibuprofen. I suspect I basically dislocated the knuckle doing weighted hangs without having warmed up enough so have learnt my lesson. Managed to pretty much stick to the plan this week, with some tweaks to make it a little less fingery.
M - knackered from weekend and an apocaliptic weather forecast so drove to work. Core session followed by normal yoga session in evening.
T - cycle commute. Careful fingerboarding in evening: continuous hangs, followed by 7/3/6/1 x10 on variety of big slots, 3 finger pockets, slopers.
W - cycle commute. UCR doing continuity so climbing 5 routes in the 6a-6b range back to back. Need to get this faster.
T - works team lunch, massive groan. General pressups and rehab etc in the evening.
F - TCA. Tried the moon board easier problems to do a boulder triple ancap session but couldn't get the level right. Then tried to get in the min on/2min off circuit session but again struggled to get the level right, and just as I did someone else came over and started using the board very very slowly! Did another 7/3/6/1 x10 at home in the evening to try to make up, with some deep 2 finger pockets in the mix this time too.
S - visit to parents. My Dad is more frail every time I see him, very sad. Various weights in evening - OHP with +7.5kg, forearm curl with 8.5kg I think (should have written it down!)
S - TCA to have another stab at ancap. Tried on the lattice board this time. Vanilla circuit way too easy. Hands below Xs also pretty easy. Couldn't work out the gaston circuit, couldn't do a single move on the tiny rungs circuit, so decided on using the resin dishes but doing more or a side to side than an up version. Had to swap to under the Xs for a few of the triples but seemed to work OK. Min on/min off x10 going really fast & getting sweaty to finish. Some more OHP and forearm curls in evening (definitely 7.5 & 8.5 cos the dumbell is still sitting there!)
Also did lots and lotsa and lots of worktop pressups in blocks of 40, as and when they fitted in. Quite tired.
thanks Guy. I think I've got very lucky with the finger. It has gone from incredibly painful at the start of the week to pretty much normal now, after heavy taping and lots of ibuprofen. I suspect I basically dislocated the knuckle doing weighted hangs without having warmed up enough so have learnt my lesson. Managed to pretty much stick to the plan this week, with some tweaks to make it a little less fingery.
M - knackered from weekend and an apocaliptic weather forecast so drove to work. Core session followed by normal yoga session in evening.
T - cycle commute. Careful fingerboarding in evening: continuous hangs, followed by 7/3/6/1 x10 on variety of big slots, 3 finger pockets, slopers.
W - cycle commute. UCR doing continuity so climbing 5 routes in the 6a-6b range back to back. Need to get this faster.
T - works team lunch, massive groan. General pressups and rehab etc in the evening.
F - TCA. Tried the moon board easier problems to do a boulder triple ancap session but couldn't get the level right. Then tried to get in the min on/2min off circuit session but again struggled to get the level right, and just as I did someone else came over and started using the board very very slowly! Did another 7/3/6/1 x10 at home in the evening to try to make up, with some deep 2 finger pockets in the mix this time too.
S - visit to parents. My Dad is more frail every time I see him, very sad. Various weights in evening - OHP with +7.5kg, forearm curl with 8.5kg I think (should have written it down!)
S - TCA to have another stab at ancap. Tried on the lattice board this time. Vanilla circuit way too easy. Hands below Xs also pretty easy. Couldn't work out the gaston circuit, couldn't do a single move on the tiny rungs circuit, so decided on using the resin dishes but doing more or a side to side than an up version. Had to swap to under the Xs for a few of the triples but seemed to work OK. Min on/min off x10 going really fast & getting sweaty to finish. Some more OHP and forearm curls in evening (definitely 7.5 & 8.5 cos the dumbell is still sitting there!)
Also did lots and lotsa and lots of worktop pressups in blocks of 40, as and when they fitted in. Quite tired.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy!
A good week.
Monday - rest, I think
Tuesday - the wee man was ill and spent the evening sleeping on us in shifts until we went to bed. This was bad. The advantage, such as it was, was that during one of my non-pillow stints I was able to get a solid trx session in because I didn’t have to worry about knocking his door open.
Wednesday - Christmas party 2. Probably no points gained, but more neutral than the previous party in that I drank far less and got home a good chunk earlier.
Thursday - fingerboard session. Lattice max hangs to 65.7kg, about 1kg off my pb. I tried a kilo beyond (ie back at pb) and failed, but unsure if I’d have made 66.2 had I tried that instead. Next time, I maybe need to progress a bit faster as by the time I got there I had done a lot of barely-sub-max hangs (progressing basically 0.5kg at a time). Still, a good session.
Friday - rest
Saturday - boulder field with CY, who impressed me by bringing a timer with her for added rigour!
- Started down on the Tank so did the usual classics and Vasco de Gama (f6C) which is a nice 6C - I’d done the component problems before but it was good fun.
-Tried The World's Best Mono II! (f6C) which felt doable had the mono not had a puddle in the bottom of it.
- Then onto Nice Tree boulder where I flailed miserably on The Prow (f6B) - first go, the heel stuck, and I thought I had it, all further goes the heel felt terrible. Rescued things somewhat by getting Storm Running (f7A) which gets me another 7A in the bag.
( vimeo.com/95839256 about 4.40)
Sunday - damp so ProJect. Tidied up the green I started last time, tried a good red with a momentum jump and a big heel rock over, plus a bunch of other things. Feeling a bit thin of skin and beasted now!
Mtg by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1 7B, 2 7A+, 4 7A, some 6C/+) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 2/4, 1/some … 1 area]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
Ltg 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
Bhag as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.
Cheers guy!
A good week.
Monday - rest, I think
Tuesday - the wee man was ill and spent the evening sleeping on us in shifts until we went to bed. This was bad. The advantage, such as it was, was that during one of my non-pillow stints I was able to get a solid trx session in because I didn’t have to worry about knocking his door open.
Wednesday - Christmas party 2. Probably no points gained, but more neutral than the previous party in that I drank far less and got home a good chunk earlier.
Thursday - fingerboard session. Lattice max hangs to 65.7kg, about 1kg off my pb. I tried a kilo beyond (ie back at pb) and failed, but unsure if I’d have made 66.2 had I tried that instead. Next time, I maybe need to progress a bit faster as by the time I got there I had done a lot of barely-sub-max hangs (progressing basically 0.5kg at a time). Still, a good session.
Friday - rest
Saturday - boulder field with CY, who impressed me by bringing a timer with her for added rigour!
- Started down on the Tank so did the usual classics and Vasco de Gama (f6C) which is a nice 6C - I’d done the component problems before but it was good fun.
-Tried The World's Best Mono II! (f6C) which felt doable had the mono not had a puddle in the bottom of it.
- Then onto Nice Tree boulder where I flailed miserably on The Prow (f6B) - first go, the heel stuck, and I thought I had it, all further goes the heel felt terrible. Rescued things somewhat by getting Storm Running (f7A) which gets me another 7A in the bag.
( vimeo.com/95839256 about 4.40)
Sunday - damp so ProJect. Tidied up the green I started last time, tried a good red with a momentum jump and a big heel rock over, plus a bunch of other things. Feeling a bit thin of skin and beasted now!
Mtg by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1 7B, 2 7A+, 4 7A, some 6C/+) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font. [0/1, 0/2, 2/4, 1/some … 1 area]
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
Ltg 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
Bhag as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.
Post edited at 19:57
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy, interesting question. I don't think that's the case with this programme, purely because I only find the one arm sessions (once per week) to be quite so high volume, whereas the two arm sessions (twice per week) while still high volume compared to what I'm used to, are more achievable.
I'm sure it's set to be fairly challenging though.
I'd be interested to see how their 'intermediate programme' compares - I think that is only two sessions per week, but I'm not sure if they are still super high volume or not.
Based on what I have read/heard I suspect volume this high is not ideal for max strength training, however, I also think that achievable volume in a bouldering session has become a weakness of mine over the last 2-3 years of projecting things with lots of rest, so I suspect the training should do be some good. Work your weaknesses etc
STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge ideally and back to hanging 69kg with either arm on the bm2000 20mm edge.
MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.
M: Fingerboard training week 2 session 2. 1 arm hangs. Session was supposed to be as per the same time last week, but I felt weak/tired so didn't do very well, quite a few of the hangs stopped early. Having done a session the day before had a bigger effect than I'd hoped.
T: rest
W: Fingerboard training week 2 session 3. Weighted two arm hangs again, like the first session (last Saturday). 10 x 10 second hangs on 14mm edge with +7.9kg then some reps with 9.0kg, 10 x 10 second hangs pinching the ceiling rafters with +6.8kg then + 7.9 kg, and 10 x 3 reps of 10 second on/5 second off on the 35 degree slopers with +18 kg.
T: rest
F: work xmas do No.2. I ate a lot and had 3 glasses of wine at lunch, but I then left mid afternoon and did a training session in the evening - I'm claiming a Christmas point for this! Fingerboard training week 3 session 3. Weighted two arm hangs again. 8 x 10 second hangs on 14mm edge with 9.0kg, 8 x 10 second hangs pinching the ceiling rafters with +6.8kg then + 7.9 kg, and 6 x 10 second hangs on the 2 finger pockets with +6.8kg. Also did a shoulder TRX session.
S-S: rest, we're away visiting friends in London until Monday. Hoping to fit a session in on Monday evening when we get home.
Another decent training week, I continued to improve on the 14 mm edges and ceiling edges. Monday just re-emphasised to me that I need to always have an empty day between hard sessions. I'm planning to repeat the 1RM max benchmarks on each hold this week and see if there is any change.
Felt a bit jealous when all my mates were heading out on the rock these last two weekends while I've been sticking to the Fingerboard :oS
Si
Edit: meant to say, finger seems to be doing pretty well
> Si dH: The last fb routine I had from Robin O'Leary had a similar volume- I could never get through a full session. Do you think these uber-sessions programmes are supposed to be aspirational/best effort?
Hi Guy, interesting question. I don't think that's the case with this programme, purely because I only find the one arm sessions (once per week) to be quite so high volume, whereas the two arm sessions (twice per week) while still high volume compared to what I'm used to, are more achievable.
I'm sure it's set to be fairly challenging though.
I'd be interested to see how their 'intermediate programme' compares - I think that is only two sessions per week, but I'm not sure if they are still super high volume or not.
Based on what I have read/heard I suspect volume this high is not ideal for max strength training, however, I also think that achievable volume in a bouldering session has become a weakness of mine over the last 2-3 years of projecting things with lots of rest, so I suspect the training should do be some good. Work your weaknesses etc
STGs:
- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge ideally and back to hanging 69kg with either arm on the bm2000 20mm edge.
MTGs:
January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.
M: Fingerboard training week 2 session 2. 1 arm hangs. Session was supposed to be as per the same time last week, but I felt weak/tired so didn't do very well, quite a few of the hangs stopped early. Having done a session the day before had a bigger effect than I'd hoped.
T: rest
W: Fingerboard training week 2 session 3. Weighted two arm hangs again, like the first session (last Saturday). 10 x 10 second hangs on 14mm edge with +7.9kg then some reps with 9.0kg, 10 x 10 second hangs pinching the ceiling rafters with +6.8kg then + 7.9 kg, and 10 x 3 reps of 10 second on/5 second off on the 35 degree slopers with +18 kg.
T: rest
F: work xmas do No.2. I ate a lot and had 3 glasses of wine at lunch, but I then left mid afternoon and did a training session in the evening - I'm claiming a Christmas point for this! Fingerboard training week 3 session 3. Weighted two arm hangs again. 8 x 10 second hangs on 14mm edge with 9.0kg, 8 x 10 second hangs pinching the ceiling rafters with +6.8kg then + 7.9 kg, and 6 x 10 second hangs on the 2 finger pockets with +6.8kg. Also did a shoulder TRX session.
S-S: rest, we're away visiting friends in London until Monday. Hoping to fit a session in on Monday evening when we get home.
Another decent training week, I continued to improve on the 14 mm edges and ceiling edges. Monday just re-emphasised to me that I need to always have an empty day between hard sessions. I'm planning to repeat the 1RM max benchmarks on each hold this week and see if there is any change.
Felt a bit jealous when all my mates were heading out on the rock these last two weekends while I've been sticking to the Fingerboard :oS
Si
Edit: meant to say, finger seems to be doing pretty well
Post edited at 19:56
1
In reply to hms:
This paragraph has completely changed my perception of lattice board training. I thought there was only one type of move that you were just supposed to repeat again and again??
> S - TCA to have another stab at ancap. Tried on the lattice board this time. Vanilla circuit way too easy. Hands below Xs also pretty easy. Couldn't work out the gaston circuit, couldn't do a single move on the tiny rungs circuit, so decided on using the resin dishes but doing more or a side to side than an up version. Had to swap to under the Xs for a few of the triples but seemed to work OK.
This paragraph has completely changed my perception of lattice board training. I thought there was only one type of move that you were just supposed to repeat again and again??
1
In reply to guy127917:
First week of training went really well. I think the hardest thing was trying not to go too hard to make sure that I recover well and progress gradually and consistently. I also need to work on the strength sessions as I always feel initially awkward doing them at the gym and try to get out as quickly as possible - no idea why! My nutrition also went well and I felt like I had plenty of energy, recovered well and drank plenty of water.
Transitional phase - week 1 summary:
Energy levels - pretty good
Recovery - no problems here
Hydration - drank plenty of water and herbal tea (so I don't have too much sugar)
Aerobic activity - 240mins plus more walking over the weekend
Running time - 55.94mins (less than I thought but I needed to walk a lot and do stepper to stay in correct zones)
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength sessions - 2
Transitional phase - week 2 plan:
Aerobic activity - 240mins
Running time - 84mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 1
Strength (and core) sessions - 2
Monday: 25.45min 1.8 mile run/walk Z1/2, 14:19 mi/mile - hard to stay in zone 2 without walking a lot!
Tuesday: 30.49min 2.26 mile run/walk Z2/3, 13:39 mi/mile - again hard to stay in zone 2 without walking.
Gym strength session from TFTNA - I forgot to do the core bit first. Notes on a few of the exercises this week:
- 10kg Turkish get-ups - possibly up this to 12kg this week as I can do 5 reasonably well. Not 100% sure on my form
- Need to add weights to squats this week
- 5 pull-ups, rest, then another 3. Will try for more this week. I find this pretty hard after the Turkish getups
- Need to make pushups, squats and incline pull-ups harder for this week
Wednesday: Climbing - had a good bouldering session and worked many routes up in the loft but just had fun and worked hard. New banana 'bread' recipe is a good, portable climbing snack.
Thursday: 30min stepper Z2 then gym strength and core session, similar to Tuesday's
Friday - Sunday: Lots and lots of walking around Barcelona. Counting this as my hour in zone 1.
Also on Friday we went to Sharma’s climbing gym and bouldered for around 2.5hrs. Everything hurt after so much bouldering and my fingers were super sore - perhaps because I haven't climbed so much recently - but I think it did my body a lot of good. I also got a bit frustrated at not being able to do some of the routes but that just reminded me that I need to work on that. The grade doesn’t matter - I can learn from each problem blah blah blah ;p Problems there were quite stretchy-reachy on both slabs and overhangs - I am not used to that so much so was fun to try them.
BHG:
climb Nanga Parbat or similar (laughing face)
Lead 8a sport
LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
The Matterhorny
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1
MTG for 2018:
Lead 30 x VS
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
To follow an 8 week nutrition plan to ensure I eat the right things to repair my body after workouts. To fuel my body in order to become more efficient, energetic and fitter without eating in excess
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbc
Climb V5
STG:
To follow the second week of my nutrition plan - paying attention to my hunger, recovery, energy levels whilst training, hydration and mood
To follow the next 7 weeks of my transition phase plan from TRTNA - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
> Jen: How did the first week of the plan go?
First week of training went really well. I think the hardest thing was trying not to go too hard to make sure that I recover well and progress gradually and consistently. I also need to work on the strength sessions as I always feel initially awkward doing them at the gym and try to get out as quickly as possible - no idea why! My nutrition also went well and I felt like I had plenty of energy, recovered well and drank plenty of water.
Transitional phase - week 1 summary:
Energy levels - pretty good
Recovery - no problems here
Hydration - drank plenty of water and herbal tea (so I don't have too much sugar)
Aerobic activity - 240mins plus more walking over the weekend
Running time - 55.94mins (less than I thought but I needed to walk a lot and do stepper to stay in correct zones)
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength sessions - 2
Transitional phase - week 2 plan:
Aerobic activity - 240mins
Running time - 84mins
Climbing sessions - 1
Fingerboard sessions - 1
Strength (and core) sessions - 2
Monday: 25.45min 1.8 mile run/walk Z1/2, 14:19 mi/mile - hard to stay in zone 2 without walking a lot!
Tuesday: 30.49min 2.26 mile run/walk Z2/3, 13:39 mi/mile - again hard to stay in zone 2 without walking.
Gym strength session from TFTNA - I forgot to do the core bit first. Notes on a few of the exercises this week:
- 10kg Turkish get-ups - possibly up this to 12kg this week as I can do 5 reasonably well. Not 100% sure on my form
- Need to add weights to squats this week
- 5 pull-ups, rest, then another 3. Will try for more this week. I find this pretty hard after the Turkish getups
- Need to make pushups, squats and incline pull-ups harder for this week
Wednesday: Climbing - had a good bouldering session and worked many routes up in the loft but just had fun and worked hard. New banana 'bread' recipe is a good, portable climbing snack.
Thursday: 30min stepper Z2 then gym strength and core session, similar to Tuesday's
Friday - Sunday: Lots and lots of walking around Barcelona. Counting this as my hour in zone 1.
Also on Friday we went to Sharma’s climbing gym and bouldered for around 2.5hrs. Everything hurt after so much bouldering and my fingers were super sore - perhaps because I haven't climbed so much recently - but I think it did my body a lot of good. I also got a bit frustrated at not being able to do some of the routes but that just reminded me that I need to work on that. The grade doesn’t matter - I can learn from each problem blah blah blah ;p Problems there were quite stretchy-reachy on both slabs and overhangs - I am not used to that so much so was fun to try them.
BHG:
climb Nanga Parbat or similar (laughing face)
Lead 8a sport
LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
The Matterhorny
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1
MTG for 2018:
Lead 30 x VS
Climb 5 routes from the Aiguilles Rouges book
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
To follow an 8 week nutrition plan to ensure I eat the right things to repair my body after workouts. To fuel my body in order to become more efficient, energetic and fitter without eating in excess
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbc
Climb V5
STG:
To follow the second week of my nutrition plan - paying attention to my hunger, recovery, energy levels whilst training, hydration and mood
To follow the next 7 weeks of my transition phase plan from TRTNA - keeping a record of progress and assessing it on a weekly basis
To work a 7a on lead at least once a week
To flash 2 6c/6c+ indoor routes for every reset
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy. You put a lot of work into this thread and it's appreciated.
Very early one from me so I don't forget, though there's not much to remember sadly.
2 bike commute days = 50 miles done. One windy and icy the other in horizontal rain. Grim, but I got them done. Unable to do hill repeats after as I had to walk/up down the hill due to ice.
Mon - hung off some stuff after coaching to see how the shoulders felt
Wed - Did the first 19 problems of The Depot Winter league with the squad. Easy session to get back into it. Need to go back and get the harder ones done.
Fri/Sat - insulating the van. This was a 555 goal, so only 6 weeks late. It's done and liveable now. Lots of little things to do but they'll have to wait until I've built the kitchen unit. Did yoga with Adrienne off YouTube in the evening. I am not flexible.......
Sun - strangely tired and meh! Went to The Boardroom with the squad. Went on the lattice board with one of the kids after we'd officially finished. Warm up consisted of going round once to get the sequence, got told I couldn't use thumbs, so I didn't after that. Then I had a bash and got 34 moves. No idea what that means, especially after the conversation the other week on here about comparability.
There'd be more to come as I got the sequence wrong twice. No idea when/if i'll ever get back there but couldn't resist having a go.
Finished uni for xmas now so looking at getting some decent sessions in this week and out on the bike if the weather lets me. If I get to BUK I want to re-try a V7 and then concentrate on different styles in the V6's.
Cheers Guy. You put a lot of work into this thread and it's appreciated.
Very early one from me so I don't forget, though there's not much to remember sadly.
2 bike commute days = 50 miles done. One windy and icy the other in horizontal rain. Grim, but I got them done. Unable to do hill repeats after as I had to walk/up down the hill due to ice.
Mon - hung off some stuff after coaching to see how the shoulders felt
Wed - Did the first 19 problems of The Depot Winter league with the squad. Easy session to get back into it. Need to go back and get the harder ones done.
Fri/Sat - insulating the van. This was a 555 goal, so only 6 weeks late. It's done and liveable now. Lots of little things to do but they'll have to wait until I've built the kitchen unit. Did yoga with Adrienne off YouTube in the evening. I am not flexible.......
Sun - strangely tired and meh! Went to The Boardroom with the squad. Went on the lattice board with one of the kids after we'd officially finished. Warm up consisted of going round once to get the sequence, got told I couldn't use thumbs, so I didn't after that. Then I had a bash and got 34 moves. No idea what that means, especially after the conversation the other week on here about comparability.
There'd be more to come as I got the sequence wrong twice. No idea when/if i'll ever get back there but couldn't resist having a go.
Finished uni for xmas now so looking at getting some decent sessions in this week and out on the bike if the weather lets me. If I get to BUK I want to re-try a V7 and then concentrate on different styles in the V6's.
In reply to Si dH:
The measuring circuit is identical moves the whole way. But to add extra variety you can also do circuits on the test edge bit, undercutting the rungs, monoing the interconnects, etc, to give a wider range of difficulty options so you can use the board for more bits of the training (if for example you bottom out at 30 moves you need something a lot harder to do AnCap 12-move problems on, so maybe you'd undercut it)
The measuring circuit is identical moves the whole way. But to add extra variety you can also do circuits on the test edge bit, undercutting the rungs, monoing the interconnects, etc, to give a wider range of difficulty options so you can use the board for more bits of the training (if for example you bottom out at 30 moves you need something a lot harder to do AnCap 12-move problems on, so maybe you'd undercut it)
In reply to biscuit:
7b+? 8a is ~50 I believe.
> 34 moves. No idea what that means
7b+? 8a is ~50 I believe.
Post edited at 20:24
In reply to guy127917:
Top man Guy - as usual a super enthusiastic and positive review of everyone's efforts.
Lacked the mojo to push hard with the physio this week, I guess post Bleau blues maybe? Plus worked 6 days this week which is not the norm for me and I've had this lingering virus thingy. Annoying more than anything else.
STG - Keep up physio
MTG - Back to flashing 6B & 6b regularly
LTG - 7A & 7a
Mobility Goal - shoulder dislocates
BHAG - Salbit West Ridge ED1 1000m. Planned for next summer, cardio work starts straight after Boxing Day.
Mon - Physio/mobility and yoga 1hr
Tue - Physio/mobility 1hr + foam rolling the legs viciously
Wed - Rest... errm... actually, I forgot I was going out for a christmas curry and it was too late to do anything when I realised!
Thu - Body Blade before work and Star Wars after - I've never left a cinema so disappointed.
Fri - Physio/mobility 1hr
Sat - Body Blade and foam roller
Sun - AM Physio/mobility and yoga 1.5hr PM Climbing Depot, Birmingham. Whizzed around the white circuit, then did 20 move traverse on the circuit board every 3min x5. Forearms mullered, just not used to 20 moves. Blue circuit but got bored, flashed what I tried. Tried some purples. reds and blacks. 2.5hrs
The Depot - what a facility, just the training areas are worth the money. Birmingham is a lucky city. Grades seemed a little soft, some of the holds were really nice and felt a lot like outside in terms of shapes etc but as normal, my enthusiasm wanes quickly and I pottered upstairs to the training area. Bought some Instinct laces in readiness for Siurana, ouch ouch ouch, so much money. I normally get my shoes resoled for 28euro, so haven't bought new shoes in three years but can't wear my Vapours to edge anymore, not since I stress fractured/broke/chewed up my left big toe in Swizzy. Since then the shoes are just too painful and the Instinct slipper I love can't cope with 85kg on tiny footholds, so out came the wallet.
Shoulder stuff goes really well, pulled a couple of moves out of the bag today that I'd have not managed last week at all, possibly ever before, so the bodyblade and shockwave therapy seems to be winning - I've another shockwave treatment tomorrow morning. I'm also doing wall angels on the floor with 5kg in each hand to force the shoulders to move as they should and it's definitely helping.
Downward dog was the focus this morning and after a few helpful suggestions about bicep direction etc I made huge progress today, not with the legs and feet but getting a perfect line from wrists to butt. All the scapular work is coming to fruition slowly.
Rolled the hell out of the right leg now the ACL is healed. There's a lot of muscle wastage, certainly to the quads (amazing how you lose it so quickly) so a few hills in Wales is the order of the day over the festive hols. The new TENS machine is helping with the arthritis pain, much better than I expected but winter in Spain is far more enjoyable! Ha
So a light week all told, about 8hrs but going in the right direction for sure.
Top man Guy - as usual a super enthusiastic and positive review of everyone's efforts.
Lacked the mojo to push hard with the physio this week, I guess post Bleau blues maybe? Plus worked 6 days this week which is not the norm for me and I've had this lingering virus thingy. Annoying more than anything else.
STG - Keep up physio
MTG - Back to flashing 6B & 6b regularly
LTG - 7A & 7a
Mobility Goal - shoulder dislocates
BHAG - Salbit West Ridge ED1 1000m. Planned for next summer, cardio work starts straight after Boxing Day.
Mon - Physio/mobility and yoga 1hr
Tue - Physio/mobility 1hr + foam rolling the legs viciously
Wed - Rest... errm... actually, I forgot I was going out for a christmas curry and it was too late to do anything when I realised!
Thu - Body Blade before work and Star Wars after - I've never left a cinema so disappointed.
Fri - Physio/mobility 1hr
Sat - Body Blade and foam roller
Sun - AM Physio/mobility and yoga 1.5hr PM Climbing Depot, Birmingham. Whizzed around the white circuit, then did 20 move traverse on the circuit board every 3min x5. Forearms mullered, just not used to 20 moves. Blue circuit but got bored, flashed what I tried. Tried some purples. reds and blacks. 2.5hrs
The Depot - what a facility, just the training areas are worth the money. Birmingham is a lucky city. Grades seemed a little soft, some of the holds were really nice and felt a lot like outside in terms of shapes etc but as normal, my enthusiasm wanes quickly and I pottered upstairs to the training area. Bought some Instinct laces in readiness for Siurana, ouch ouch ouch, so much money. I normally get my shoes resoled for 28euro, so haven't bought new shoes in three years but can't wear my Vapours to edge anymore, not since I stress fractured/broke/chewed up my left big toe in Swizzy. Since then the shoes are just too painful and the Instinct slipper I love can't cope with 85kg on tiny footholds, so out came the wallet.
Shoulder stuff goes really well, pulled a couple of moves out of the bag today that I'd have not managed last week at all, possibly ever before, so the bodyblade and shockwave therapy seems to be winning - I've another shockwave treatment tomorrow morning. I'm also doing wall angels on the floor with 5kg in each hand to force the shoulders to move as they should and it's definitely helping.
Downward dog was the focus this morning and after a few helpful suggestions about bicep direction etc I made huge progress today, not with the legs and feet but getting a perfect line from wrists to butt. All the scapular work is coming to fruition slowly.
Rolled the hell out of the right leg now the ACL is healed. There's a lot of muscle wastage, certainly to the quads (amazing how you lose it so quickly) so a few hills in Wales is the order of the day over the festive hols. The new TENS machine is helping with the arthritis pain, much better than I expected but winter in Spain is far more enjoyable! Ha
So a light week all told, about 8hrs but going in the right direction for sure.
Post edited at 20:39
1
In reply to AJM:
Are the lattice board rungs identical to the finger rails then, with the 20mm hold and the jug? I hadn't actually realised that.
Si
Are the lattice board rungs identical to the finger rails then, with the 20mm hold and the jug? I hadn't actually realised that.
Si
Post edited at 20:34
In reply to Si dH:
Yes, that's right.
> Are the lattice board rungs identical to the finger rails then, with the 20mm hold and the jug? I hadn't actually realised that.
Yes, that's right.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks guy, I'm beginning to learn how to use my feet, I feel. Only took me over a year.
Monday:
I did some bouldering at my limit, so naturally I didn't send much I think. Got a bunch of new projects though I guess.
Like this core crusher: https://www.instagram.com/p/BckQ-dNDP7g/?taken-by=thefasting
Also did the weekly boulder at my gym second go.
Then I did squats, bench and deadlifts. Got 3 sets of 10 for 90 kg squats, so jumping to 100 kg next time. Bench didn't go well at all, so starting a new progression for that. 3 sets of 10 for 100 kg deadlifts as well, jumping to 110 kg.
Hangboarding in between lifting: 5 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand (30mm), crimp (20mm) and half crimp (20mm)
Tuesday:
1h15m of stair walking. 640m vertical gain I think, bit less than last time but my legs were shot after squats.
Wednesday:
First session on a Moon Board. Mostly failed everything, but did send a 6A+ called "Easy Red". The new hold set has 6A+ so I can actually climb things now!
Did it by skipping a hold, don't know if that counts: https://www.instagram.com/p/BcuqkwxDrhE/?taken-by=thefasting
Thursday, Friday, Saturday: Don't think I did anything?
Sunday:
Ice climbing at local city ice! I started outdoor climbing with my ice course last year, so climbing ice feels a bit like coming home after a hard and frustrating rock season.
Put a toprope on Bånntjern (WI-2+) and did laps. Feel super secure on the ice still, but my crampons pop from time to time. I took some video and it definitely looks like I'm not dropping my heels enough.
Any form tips at all very welcome: youtube.com/watch?v=MDErJQENjjI&
Also did a "No axe ascent", which is fast becoming one of my favorite things to do on easy ice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uktlJA2lK-Y&
Actually I might have sort of gotten my first taste of lead climbing on ice, because the rope got stuck halfway down and my partner didn't rappel down due to a communication mishap, so I thought it looked easy enough and I climbed up solo, made an "anchor" with my ice tools and clipped into the rope and rappelled down... I feel like I could solo that route but I also feel like that would be unnecessary risk so I should probably return to lead it later this season.
Thanks guy, I'm beginning to learn how to use my feet, I feel. Only took me over a year.
Monday:
I did some bouldering at my limit, so naturally I didn't send much I think. Got a bunch of new projects though I guess.
Like this core crusher: https://www.instagram.com/p/BckQ-dNDP7g/?taken-by=thefasting
Also did the weekly boulder at my gym second go.
Then I did squats, bench and deadlifts. Got 3 sets of 10 for 90 kg squats, so jumping to 100 kg next time. Bench didn't go well at all, so starting a new progression for that. 3 sets of 10 for 100 kg deadlifts as well, jumping to 110 kg.
Hangboarding in between lifting: 5 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand (30mm), crimp (20mm) and half crimp (20mm)
Tuesday:
1h15m of stair walking. 640m vertical gain I think, bit less than last time but my legs were shot after squats.
Wednesday:
First session on a Moon Board. Mostly failed everything, but did send a 6A+ called "Easy Red". The new hold set has 6A+ so I can actually climb things now!
Did it by skipping a hold, don't know if that counts: https://www.instagram.com/p/BcuqkwxDrhE/?taken-by=thefasting
Thursday, Friday, Saturday: Don't think I did anything?
Sunday:
Ice climbing at local city ice! I started outdoor climbing with my ice course last year, so climbing ice feels a bit like coming home after a hard and frustrating rock season.
Put a toprope on Bånntjern (WI-2+) and did laps. Feel super secure on the ice still, but my crampons pop from time to time. I took some video and it definitely looks like I'm not dropping my heels enough.
Any form tips at all very welcome: youtube.com/watch?v=MDErJQENjjI&
Also did a "No axe ascent", which is fast becoming one of my favorite things to do on easy ice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uktlJA2lK-Y&
Actually I might have sort of gotten my first taste of lead climbing on ice, because the rope got stuck halfway down and my partner didn't rappel down due to a communication mishap, so I thought it looked easy enough and I climbed up solo, made an "anchor" with my ice tools and clipped into the rope and rappelled down... I feel like I could solo that route but I also feel like that would be unnecessary risk so I should probably return to lead it later this season.
In reply to TheFasting:
I am not an expert ice climber by any means, but a couple of things stand out based on that video:
- 0:23 and 1:20 stepping up with one axe high, one low is not ideal from an efficiency or safety POV.
- At 0:23 you need to focus on picking spots for each foot, and kicking in a firm front point placement- not scrabbling up like you are wearing rock shoes
- Similarly both hands too low at 1:38- if your feet slip, you will come off (I know that was easy ground though)
- In general your axe swings are a bit tenative, for example around 1:50- pick a spot and give it a good whack. The head of the tool shouldnt really wiggle around if you are using your shoulder/elbow/wrist/hand in an efficient and powerful manner.
- Standing with your feet side on as at 1:34 shouldnt really be required unless your calves are super pumped. It looks like your right foot slips a bit as a result. Use front points for security, on bigger steps if you can find them.
- In general you want to try and get into a rhythm of of hand hand foot foot rather than playing with axes for a while and then making 4 foot moves etc.
Keep working on it, videoing yourself is a good way to get feedback for sure.
I am not an expert ice climber by any means, but a couple of things stand out based on that video:
- 0:23 and 1:20 stepping up with one axe high, one low is not ideal from an efficiency or safety POV.
- At 0:23 you need to focus on picking spots for each foot, and kicking in a firm front point placement- not scrabbling up like you are wearing rock shoes
- Similarly both hands too low at 1:38- if your feet slip, you will come off (I know that was easy ground though)
- In general your axe swings are a bit tenative, for example around 1:50- pick a spot and give it a good whack. The head of the tool shouldnt really wiggle around if you are using your shoulder/elbow/wrist/hand in an efficient and powerful manner.
- Standing with your feet side on as at 1:34 shouldnt really be required unless your calves are super pumped. It looks like your right foot slips a bit as a result. Use front points for security, on bigger steps if you can find them.
- In general you want to try and get into a rhythm of of hand hand foot foot rather than playing with axes for a while and then making 4 foot moves etc.
Keep working on it, videoing yourself is a good way to get feedback for sure.
Post edited at 21:12
In reply to guy127917:
The technique with one axe up and one axe further down is what I learned in my courses last year actually, like the triangle technique here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4316
But I should definitely work on picking spots and kicking in. When I slip it's usually because I didn't kick them in enough I think.
The technique with one axe up and one axe further down is what I learned in my courses last year actually, like the triangle technique here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4316
But I should definitely work on picking spots and kicking in. When I slip it's usually because I didn't kick them in enough I think.
In reply to TheFasting:
Interesting- I will read that and have a good think about it... thanks. Definitely at odds with the general principals I was shown but hey ho... obviously disregard that piece of critique!!
Interesting- I will read that and have a good think about it... thanks. Definitely at odds with the general principals I was shown but hey ho... obviously disregard that piece of critique!!
1
In reply to guy127917:
You should definitely try it if you haven't, I think it feels a bit more secure. Also you move up by swinging half the number of times you do with the X technique, goes much quicker.
You should definitely try it if you haven't, I think it feels a bit more secure. Also you move up by swinging half the number of times you do with the X technique, goes much quicker.
In reply to TheFasting:
Nice vids - it's great to see the places where you play.
There's big gains to be made with the feet I'd say, being a lot more positive when kicking in, the toes square on to the ice and keeping the heels low will help hugely. There's nothing worse than the feet feeling insecure. Having said that, Uli Stech used to say he didn't mind his feet slipping a little as long as the axes were bomber.
I was also told to have a hand high and the other low and to overlap them as you move, I think it works well.
Nice vids - it's great to see the places where you play.
There's big gains to be made with the feet I'd say, being a lot more positive when kicking in, the toes square on to the ice and keeping the heels low will help hugely. There's nothing worse than the feet feeling insecure. Having said that, Uli Stech used to say he didn't mind his feet slipping a little as long as the axes were bomber.
I was also told to have a hand high and the other low and to overlap them as you move, I think it works well.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Top job keeping on top of a big and mixed bunch of fit-clubbers.
Hi all.
An ok week, other than sacking off this weekend's trip to Scotland due to not wanting to spend time, money and effort on just one day's climbing (on the assumption that today wouldn't likely see much in good nick). Not up to Scotland until after Christmas now, so need to get organised and start trying to see off some of my 'End Game' goals.
SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week (achieved this week, if I'm allowed to include sprint skinning up hill? Otherwise I was 75m short).
Average two core sessions per week (fail)
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week (yes)
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.
MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
LAST WEEK
M: Ski touring in Shropshire (some nice downhill, plus >300m vert gain).
T: Ski touring in Shropshire (similar to Mon but bigger day, >400m vert gain).
W: Rest.
T: Shoulder Rehab (Bands).
F: Rest.
S: Shoulder Rehab (Bands).
S: Trail Run -very challenging underfoot with ankle deep thick, slippy mud -fun though! 16.8km, 7:10 pace, 424m vert gain.
Thanks Guy. Top job keeping on top of a big and mixed bunch of fit-clubbers.
Hi all.
An ok week, other than sacking off this weekend's trip to Scotland due to not wanting to spend time, money and effort on just one day's climbing (on the assumption that today wouldn't likely see much in good nick). Not up to Scotland until after Christmas now, so need to get organised and start trying to see off some of my 'End Game' goals.
SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week (achieved this week, if I'm allowed to include sprint skinning up hill? Otherwise I was 75m short).
Average two core sessions per week (fail)
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week (yes)
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.
MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
LAST WEEK
M: Ski touring in Shropshire (some nice downhill, plus >300m vert gain).
T: Ski touring in Shropshire (similar to Mon but bigger day, >400m vert gain).
W: Rest.
T: Shoulder Rehab (Bands).
F: Rest.
S: Shoulder Rehab (Bands).
S: Trail Run -very challenging underfoot with ankle deep thick, slippy mud -fun though! 16.8km, 7:10 pace, 424m vert gain.
In reply to mrchewy:
Yeah last season the feet slipping felt super sketchy, but since then I've gotten much better at getting good axe placements so even when I slip I don't feel like I'll fall. If I get the feet sorted out too then I'll be invincible!
I think I worked out kicking the feet a bit more on the lap without axes, so I'll keep practicing being more decisive with my feet
Yeah last season the feet slipping felt super sketchy, but since then I've gotten much better at getting good axe placements so even when I slip I don't feel like I'll fall. If I get the feet sorted out too then I'll be invincible!
I think I worked out kicking the feet a bit more on the lap without axes, so I'll keep practicing being more decisive with my feet
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks once again guy.
Pretty easy this week, partly because it's first week back from hols but also studying for an exam....
M: Rest
T: Tried to get too BUK but turned back at top of Grane Road, discovered that rear wheel drive, low profile tyres and auto box aren't a good combo for winter driving.
W: Easy session at BUK, terrifying drive/toboggan down the Grane Road
T: House of Pain for usual humiliation, massive slalom down the road on the way back which could have been worse where it not for my Finnish rally driving skills (actually thanks to an empty dual carriage way)
F: Rest
S: Very short session at BUK, tried the Beastmaker app 6C session. At least three sets were not done in any way. Nice relaxing drive back in the drizzle
S: Rest and over eating
Thanks once again guy.
Pretty easy this week, partly because it's first week back from hols but also studying for an exam....
M: Rest
T: Tried to get too BUK but turned back at top of Grane Road, discovered that rear wheel drive, low profile tyres and auto box aren't a good combo for winter driving.
W: Easy session at BUK, terrifying drive/toboggan down the Grane Road
T: House of Pain for usual humiliation, massive slalom down the road on the way back which could have been worse where it not for my Finnish rally driving skills (actually thanks to an empty dual carriage way)
F: Rest
S: Very short session at BUK, tried the Beastmaker app 6C session. At least three sets were not done in any way. Nice relaxing drive back in the drizzle
S: Rest and over eating
In reply to guy127917:
Completely messed up Friday's report - as well as the hour of physio and mobility, I popped over to Paul's. So maybe 10min of traversing about at 5deg on small holds, 30min of body blade and then did 5 sets of max hangs on the lattice edge. 7 x 4-6sec every minute and 5min between sets. The fifth set I completely fell apart and couldn't do the last two attempts short of pulling on and falling off.
Not expecting to get stronger with one session of this a week but it'll help me tread water and if I'm totally honest, it doesn't feel like it's doing anything. All the stress is on the front of the shoulder, at the tendon I'm having troubles with, the superaspinatus and that's generally the reason I fail. It's causing the good shoulder to slightly grumble too as it's taking up the slack but no bad after affects, so I'll keep up with this until I head to Spain in a month.
Completely messed up Friday's report - as well as the hour of physio and mobility, I popped over to Paul's. So maybe 10min of traversing about at 5deg on small holds, 30min of body blade and then did 5 sets of max hangs on the lattice edge. 7 x 4-6sec every minute and 5min between sets. The fifth set I completely fell apart and couldn't do the last two attempts short of pulling on and falling off.
Not expecting to get stronger with one session of this a week but it'll help me tread water and if I'm totally honest, it doesn't feel like it's doing anything. All the stress is on the front of the shoulder, at the tendon I'm having troubles with, the superaspinatus and that's generally the reason I fail. It's causing the good shoulder to slightly grumble too as it's taking up the slack but no bad after affects, so I'll keep up with this until I head to Spain in a month.
In reply to guy127917:
STG: ???
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Not really sure what I am, or should be doing at the moment. What I am doing isn't going well & feels aimless. Perhaps I should have taken a longer break after Kalymnos, as I originally intended to. And the on/off low level virus lurgy thing for the last couple of weeks certainly isn't helping and hasn't gone away yet.
Don't know if what I should actually be doing is a base mileage phase in preparation for a spring sport climbing trip (Kalymnos Take II?) after Font at Easter, or trying to get some kind of bouldering fluency back together *for* Font at Easter. Am doing neither.
M: Beastmaker max hangs
T: Ill / rest
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes up to 6c. Another odd session - warm up was too interrupted & too hard due to the wall being shockingly busy, queuing for everything. (Wednesday early evening is always busy but this week was especially bad) Then horrible flash pump on the first few attempts on harder routes. Then suddenly went well for the last half hour.
T: rest. 20 minutes armaid.
F: Didn't have my normal Friday evening bouldering session with my son because he's ill now too. Did another beastmaker session at home instead.
S: More rest. Baking stollen + half an hour armaid
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. A rather aimless feeling wall session on a dark, damp Sunday afternoon. Ten routes up to 6c. I did at least spend some time on extremely steep pumpy jug-hauls, and did some practice falls, thus addressing my mental weakness on steep ground from two directions.
20 minutes armaid before bed.
STG: ???
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Not really sure what I am, or should be doing at the moment. What I am doing isn't going well & feels aimless. Perhaps I should have taken a longer break after Kalymnos, as I originally intended to. And the on/off low level virus lurgy thing for the last couple of weeks certainly isn't helping and hasn't gone away yet.
Don't know if what I should actually be doing is a base mileage phase in preparation for a spring sport climbing trip (Kalymnos Take II?) after Font at Easter, or trying to get some kind of bouldering fluency back together *for* Font at Easter. Am doing neither.
M: Beastmaker max hangs
T: Ill / rest
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Nine routes up to 6c. Another odd session - warm up was too interrupted & too hard due to the wall being shockingly busy, queuing for everything. (Wednesday early evening is always busy but this week was especially bad) Then horrible flash pump on the first few attempts on harder routes. Then suddenly went well for the last half hour.
T: rest. 20 minutes armaid.
F: Didn't have my normal Friday evening bouldering session with my son because he's ill now too. Did another beastmaker session at home instead.
S: More rest. Baking stollen + half an hour armaid
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. A rather aimless feeling wall session on a dark, damp Sunday afternoon. Ten routes up to 6c. I did at least spend some time on extremely steep pumpy jug-hauls, and did some practice falls, thus addressing my mental weakness on steep ground from two directions.
20 minutes armaid before bed.
1
In reply to AlanLittle:
Alan,
Ultimately, that's a question of timings and priorities.
A lattice-style periodisation plan would have base training stop about 2 months before a trip. Base training (boulder,AnCap, aerocap) won't be terrible training for Font as you'll do a decent amount of pulling hard. So if you had 2 months between Font and sport you could potentially have Font as end of base phase and come back and hit the power endurance and be on form for both.
If you don't, you probably have 2 options:
- You train strength/base until Font and go sport climbing with less pe than you might otherwise have had, or
-You switch to pe earlier, and accept that in Font your high end boulder snap might be a bit off pace due to having already started your power endurance training.
You can try to manage it - do quite short pe initially if you pick the latter for example - but those are your extremes.
Given the identification of mental issues as a primary stumbling block for sport it's worth considering how to throw that in the mix - firstly in terms of training time and secondly in terms of training balance (physically, you may have already been capable of 7a o/s in October, which might sway your view on how to prioritise the physical training as above. And on the other angle depending on what you plan to do in Font your limiting factor there may be technique/knack rather than raw pulling ability, which is also a thing to throw into your consideration s.
Hope this helps,
A
> Don't know if what I should actually be doing is a base mileage phase in preparation for a spring sport climbing trip (Kalymnos Take II?) after Font at Easter, or trying to get some kind of bouldering fluency back together *for* Font at Easter. Am doing neither.
Alan,
Ultimately, that's a question of timings and priorities.
A lattice-style periodisation plan would have base training stop about 2 months before a trip. Base training (boulder,AnCap, aerocap) won't be terrible training for Font as you'll do a decent amount of pulling hard. So if you had 2 months between Font and sport you could potentially have Font as end of base phase and come back and hit the power endurance and be on form for both.
If you don't, you probably have 2 options:
- You train strength/base until Font and go sport climbing with less pe than you might otherwise have had, or
-You switch to pe earlier, and accept that in Font your high end boulder snap might be a bit off pace due to having already started your power endurance training.
You can try to manage it - do quite short pe initially if you pick the latter for example - but those are your extremes.
Given the identification of mental issues as a primary stumbling block for sport it's worth considering how to throw that in the mix - firstly in terms of training time and secondly in terms of training balance (physically, you may have already been capable of 7a o/s in October, which might sway your view on how to prioritise the physical training as above. And on the other angle depending on what you plan to do in Font your limiting factor there may be technique/knack rather than raw pulling ability, which is also a thing to throw into your consideration s.
Hope this helps,
A
3
In reply to TheFasting:
Good vids, very jealous of your Norwegian ice!
One thing that struck me was that the terrain you are on, whilst less sustained/pumpy, is actually more challenging for footwork technique. As you’ve identified yourself the key reason your crampons are popping is that your heels rise, leading to the secondary (stabilising) points disengaging from the ice and the front points moving from an angle perpendicular to the ice to a more oblique angle where they are more likely to sheer through the ice. This problem with your heels rising is more prone to happening when your body weight moves forward in relation to your feet... common for all of us when we go over an easing in the angle of ice (or just on easy angled ice in general).
So the good news is that if you master keeping your heels down on easier routes you’ll be super solid on steeper routes where your weight is naturally back, stopping your heels rising! Whilst you’ve got the security of the top rope why don’t you get on some steeper routes and see whether I’m right?!
(Incidentally, the same problem with points sheering through the ice occurs when you turn your foot sideways)
The other thing that is worth thinking about is the way you seat your front points in the ice. It’s goid to look where you’re putting your feet and good to make use of natural features for extra security or resting your calves, but to a certain extent you’re making your own foot holds so you just need a ‘kick’ rather than a ‘placement ‘ I think. If your front points are sharp you can save energy by just lifting your foot then letting the weight of boot/crampon swing it back forward in to the ice, rather than a tiring kick forwards. Remember you need to drive your front points in far enough for your secondary points to bite. People talk about ‘silent feet’ exercises in rock climbing where you try and place your feet so delicately that they make no sound... think the opposite for ice climbing! You want precision, but also just a bit of a whack!
Look forward to the next vids. Get a rope in something steep!
Good vids, very jealous of your Norwegian ice!
One thing that struck me was that the terrain you are on, whilst less sustained/pumpy, is actually more challenging for footwork technique. As you’ve identified yourself the key reason your crampons are popping is that your heels rise, leading to the secondary (stabilising) points disengaging from the ice and the front points moving from an angle perpendicular to the ice to a more oblique angle where they are more likely to sheer through the ice. This problem with your heels rising is more prone to happening when your body weight moves forward in relation to your feet... common for all of us when we go over an easing in the angle of ice (or just on easy angled ice in general).
So the good news is that if you master keeping your heels down on easier routes you’ll be super solid on steeper routes where your weight is naturally back, stopping your heels rising! Whilst you’ve got the security of the top rope why don’t you get on some steeper routes and see whether I’m right?!
(Incidentally, the same problem with points sheering through the ice occurs when you turn your foot sideways)
The other thing that is worth thinking about is the way you seat your front points in the ice. It’s goid to look where you’re putting your feet and good to make use of natural features for extra security or resting your calves, but to a certain extent you’re making your own foot holds so you just need a ‘kick’ rather than a ‘placement ‘ I think. If your front points are sharp you can save energy by just lifting your foot then letting the weight of boot/crampon swing it back forward in to the ice, rather than a tiring kick forwards. Remember you need to drive your front points in far enough for your secondary points to bite. People talk about ‘silent feet’ exercises in rock climbing where you try and place your feet so delicately that they make no sound... think the opposite for ice climbing! You want precision, but also just a bit of a whack!
Look forward to the next vids. Get a rope in something steep!
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy and many thanks for all the helpful and motivating comments throughout the year. Its been great to have someone always give a positive comment and regular contribution has made me feel accountable every week. The last week has been good as I was able to get back in the pool
Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km swim
Tuesday, 2km swim
Wednesday, 1km swim and 7.5km run
Thursday, 2km swim and 14km run
Friday, big day! 3km swim and 21km cycle (very icy) and that ticked off both my swim and cycle year targets, 3000km and 200km respectively
Now just 44km left to run to hit the 750 km run goal. Happy days.
May well miss the next update as I normally update from work on a Monday morning. If i dont post then merry Christmas and a happy new year to all!
> the sheep: Great to hear to you are on track.
Cheers Guy and many thanks for all the helpful and motivating comments throughout the year. Its been great to have someone always give a positive comment and regular contribution has made me feel accountable every week. The last week has been good as I was able to get back in the pool
Week went as follows;
Monday, 2km swim
Tuesday, 2km swim
Wednesday, 1km swim and 7.5km run
Thursday, 2km swim and 14km run
Friday, big day! 3km swim and 21km cycle (very icy) and that ticked off both my swim and cycle year targets, 3000km and 200km respectively
Now just 44km left to run to hit the 750 km run goal. Happy days.
May well miss the next update as I normally update from work on a Monday morning. If i dont post then merry Christmas and a happy new year to all!
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy - still feeling weak - mostly due to my morbid obesity. Thankfully i've managed to show some dietary restraint this week...
Week 51
M - skipped the gym (-1pt) but did a weighted core routine instead (+1pt)
T - triple session day (+3pts). #1: An-cap hangs (all ~30% down on last week – still feeling the weekend? #2: Aero-cap hangs (8x 7/3/6/1 BM2K slots) #3: gym. Cross trainer intervals, deadlift (up to 120kg single and 100kg triple), benchpress (3x10 @40kg) lat pull-down (3x10 @68kg wide) rotator cuff 3x8 @12.5kg (or was it lb? 3rd notch). 12min cycle warm-down. Mulled wine whilst decorating the house (-1pt)
W - Nowt but some stretches
T - Long warm-up in freezing Depot. An-cap triples on the 30 degree board (made up some problems), 12x 1on/1off aero-cap on the purple “7a”. 2x 2k ergo row; 7min47s, 5min rest, 7min 41s. (+3pts) Said no to booze (+1pt)
F - Weighted core routine (getting easier) and lots of TRX including flys/T’s – first time I’ve tried these for a while and was finally nailing the form (+2pts). Obesity confirmed (79.6kg) whilst weighing the cat
S - Snowy walk around the Roaches (+1pt); Chinese take-out and boozey evening (-2pts)
S - Breakfast in bed https://www.instagram.com/p/Bc1u6gyhDUL then visiting friends
+7pts and a happy end to the week. More boozing planned this week - resistance training with a (bio-)weight vest is obviously the way to go
Thanks Guy - still feeling weak - mostly due to my morbid obesity. Thankfully i've managed to show some dietary restraint this week...
Week 51
M - skipped the gym (-1pt) but did a weighted core routine instead (+1pt)
T - triple session day (+3pts). #1: An-cap hangs (all ~30% down on last week – still feeling the weekend? #2: Aero-cap hangs (8x 7/3/6/1 BM2K slots) #3: gym. Cross trainer intervals, deadlift (up to 120kg single and 100kg triple), benchpress (3x10 @40kg) lat pull-down (3x10 @68kg wide) rotator cuff 3x8 @12.5kg (or was it lb? 3rd notch). 12min cycle warm-down. Mulled wine whilst decorating the house (-1pt)
W - Nowt but some stretches
T - Long warm-up in freezing Depot. An-cap triples on the 30 degree board (made up some problems), 12x 1on/1off aero-cap on the purple “7a”. 2x 2k ergo row; 7min47s, 5min rest, 7min 41s. (+3pts) Said no to booze (+1pt)
F - Weighted core routine (getting easier) and lots of TRX including flys/T’s – first time I’ve tried these for a while and was finally nailing the form (+2pts). Obesity confirmed (79.6kg) whilst weighing the cat
S - Snowy walk around the Roaches (+1pt); Chinese take-out and boozey evening (-2pts)
S - Breakfast in bed https://www.instagram.com/p/Bc1u6gyhDUL then visiting friends
+7pts and a happy end to the week. More boozing planned this week - resistance training with a (bio-)weight vest is obviously the way to go
12
In reply to Ally Smith:
Shouldn't there be something in that box? If this is what I think it is then huge congratulations to you both - that's great news. If it's not then this is a bit awks!
Shouldn't there be something in that box? If this is what I think it is then huge congratulations to you both - that's great news. If it's not then this is a bit awks!
Post edited at 11:19
4
In reply to guy127917:
I ate them all at the office anyway...
Thanks for statting Guy, top job as always!
I had a pretty reasonable week, good amounts of elbow healing paired with me pushing things a bit too hard at the wall as usual meant there was a small amount of progression towards full health. I really am my own worst enemy sometimes!
M: OG session; handstands still aren't coming close to my 23 second high point a few weeks back, I feel a bit more aware of what is going on but that doesn't seem to help me stay upright, it's like I can tell i'm going to overbalance quite a long time before I do go over but I've yet to work out a method of stopping it happening!
T: Indoor Boulder; New routes and a new set of traverse routes kept me busy, pretty sure I did 1 on 1 off on the traverse wall. Kept my sensible head on and didn't really try anything too hard.
W: OG session: Only did a partial session again due to time constraints, the german hangs are definitely getting easier though, also I think the front levers are improving.
T: Indoor Boulder; worked on a couple of harder problems which was probably inadvisable really, I also had my first pull on the woody since my elbow troubles, it felt pretty good, probably because it's just hard crimping which is one of the less problematic grip types, but that's no reason to start throwing myself at it again, I must be patient!
F: Nothing, I skipped the OG session as the elbow was sore from too much naughtiness the previous day.
S: Portland; Lucked out with a beautiful sunny morning at the Cuttings, the elbow was still feeling a little off so I kept things easy but found a couple of little gems that i'd not climbed before. Dusty Fred's Winter Collection (6c) was far better than the description in the book, also New Saladin (6c) was considerably better than I remembered. They were so good in fact that Mrs Dandan actually enjoyed herself which is unheard of at the Cuttings.
Saw AJM and Curious Yellow briefly while I was halfway up a route, luckily they carried on into the boulderfield before they had a chance to witness me barely scrape myself through a 6b+ crux!
S: Christmas lunch gluttony with friends and a distinct lack of any exercise...
After the ups and downs of the week, the elbow feels excellent today, so I should manage a full OG session tonight and i'll try to keep it steady on Tuesday at the wall.
> Dandan82: Not if the reason you take mince pies to the office is so you don't eat them all yourself at home...
I ate them all at the office anyway...
Thanks for statting Guy, top job as always!
I had a pretty reasonable week, good amounts of elbow healing paired with me pushing things a bit too hard at the wall as usual meant there was a small amount of progression towards full health. I really am my own worst enemy sometimes!
M: OG session; handstands still aren't coming close to my 23 second high point a few weeks back, I feel a bit more aware of what is going on but that doesn't seem to help me stay upright, it's like I can tell i'm going to overbalance quite a long time before I do go over but I've yet to work out a method of stopping it happening!
T: Indoor Boulder; New routes and a new set of traverse routes kept me busy, pretty sure I did 1 on 1 off on the traverse wall. Kept my sensible head on and didn't really try anything too hard.
W: OG session: Only did a partial session again due to time constraints, the german hangs are definitely getting easier though, also I think the front levers are improving.
T: Indoor Boulder; worked on a couple of harder problems which was probably inadvisable really, I also had my first pull on the woody since my elbow troubles, it felt pretty good, probably because it's just hard crimping which is one of the less problematic grip types, but that's no reason to start throwing myself at it again, I must be patient!
F: Nothing, I skipped the OG session as the elbow was sore from too much naughtiness the previous day.
S: Portland; Lucked out with a beautiful sunny morning at the Cuttings, the elbow was still feeling a little off so I kept things easy but found a couple of little gems that i'd not climbed before. Dusty Fred's Winter Collection (6c) was far better than the description in the book, also New Saladin (6c) was considerably better than I remembered. They were so good in fact that Mrs Dandan actually enjoyed herself which is unheard of at the Cuttings.
Saw AJM and Curious Yellow briefly while I was halfway up a route, luckily they carried on into the boulderfield before they had a chance to witness me barely scrape myself through a 6b+ crux!
S: Christmas lunch gluttony with friends and a distinct lack of any exercise...
After the ups and downs of the week, the elbow feels excellent today, so I should manage a full OG session tonight and i'll try to keep it steady on Tuesday at the wall.
In reply to AJM:
Very useful thoughts, thanks. Definitely helps me to answer the question for myself, because ...
Font is primarily a father-son bonding exercise with my teenager. Any major bouldering successes on my part will be a side effect & a bonus. Which in turn clearly means that the actual training goal is the sport climbing trip afterwards.
Very useful thoughts, thanks. Definitely helps me to answer the question for myself, because ...
Font is primarily a father-son bonding exercise with my teenager. Any major bouldering successes on my part will be a side effect & a bonus. Which in turn clearly means that the actual training goal is the sport climbing trip afterwards.
2
1
1
1
In reply to AlanLittle:
I found Font to be great for my head, with the dodgy ACL it meant I had to totally commit at times, falling was not optional with the feet 3m up and it really showed how much better I can climb when I'm in that mode. It felt a bit like big mountain soloing, really clear headed and I'm hoping I can take that with me on a rope in Siurana next month.
I found Font to be great for my head, with the dodgy ACL it meant I had to totally commit at times, falling was not optional with the feet 3m up and it really showed how much better I can climb when I'm in that mode. It felt a bit like big mountain soloing, really clear headed and I'm hoping I can take that with me on a rope in Siurana next month.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Good work... Always pays to wait for the right beta! Congratulations!
> Not awks - the lady has the prerogative on the final design of the content
Good work... Always pays to wait for the right beta! Congratulations!
1
In reply to AJM:
Ooh get me! Surprising.
Cheers for that. There’s more in the tank as it was basically straight off the couch and I hadn’t got the rhythm.
Probs about right with the 7b+ circuit at BUK and the limited harder for me routes I got on in chorro.
Ooh get me! Surprising.
Cheers for that. There’s more in the tank as it was basically straight off the couch and I hadn’t got the rhythm.
Probs about right with the 7b+ circuit at BUK and the limited harder for me routes I got on in chorro.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Congratulations!!
Congratulations!!
1
In reply to webbo:
Not sure the link will work on UKC but basically it's a flat stick a meter long that has weights on each end. You start a wobble going and have to control it. I'm doing way better now than two weeks ago and am just about to start doing internal and external rotation stuff for the rotator cuff like you would with a latex band but it's flipping hard. Ignore all the fitness videos on YouTube and there's a few showing rotator cuff exercises. So far, I'm impressed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GIIEZYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=...
Not sure the link will work on UKC but basically it's a flat stick a meter long that has weights on each end. You start a wobble going and have to control it. I'm doing way better now than two weeks ago and am just about to start doing internal and external rotation stuff for the rotator cuff like you would with a latex band but it's flipping hard. Ignore all the fitness videos on YouTube and there's a few showing rotator cuff exercises. So far, I'm impressed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GIIEZYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=...
In reply to Ally Smith:
Congratulations!
Congratulations!
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy... I'm feeling a little shattered!
STG:
*2 pull ups by end of 2017
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
*climb at Mt Ngungun wearing a Xmas hat and tinsel - Dec 17th - done (except for the tinsel)
MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
MONDAY
AM training
2 sets
x10 zombie lunges each leg (12kg kettlebell)
x6 single-leg kettlebell romanian deadlift (12kg)
x8 each leg pistol squats
x20 each arm single arm kettlebell row (12kg)
x4 sets, x8 reps one leg barbell squat (15kg, 25kg, 25kg, 30kg)
4 sets (12kg, 15kg, 10kg, 12kg)
x15 ball slams
x15 ball throws over shoulder
2 sets
x10 Hyperextensions (Back Extensions)
x10 each arm resistance twists
PM Indoor Climb
In the gym - assisted chin ups with resistance band / physio exercises
Top-rope session - climbed a few 22/23's. Some new projects to work on. Tried an overhang but arms just felt shattered, probably from ball slams.
TUESDAY
AM Indoor Climb
4x4's
Physio exercises
WEDNESDAY
AM Training
4 sets
x5 each arm kettlebell windmills (8kg & 10kg kettlebell)
x20 triceps dip
4 sets
x5 each leg kettlebell leg raise (8kg)
x5 each arm, single-arm long bar row
x5 each leg, single leg glute bridge with feet on the bench (2 sets with 10kg kettlebell)
5 push ups
3 sets
1min raised leg core hold
20 each leg mountain climbers
20 each leg high knees
Thursday/Friday/Saturday - rest
SUNDAY
Climbing at Mt Ngungun
Aim of the day was to get a friend to do her first lead. We spent most of the day on a beginners wall. The climbs were fun and the rock was good fun to climbing on, except when I pulled off a tennis ball size piece of rock off that luckily missed my belayer.
- After lunch climbed a super sketchy 17/5b. Was going to lead it but after watching my friend freak out at the ridiculously high first bolt (it was so high my clipstick could not reach it) I decided to top it. Was a fun crimpy climb.
- Also climbed in my xmas hat for most of the day!! Climbing goals for the year complete. ha!
Thanks Guy... I'm feeling a little shattered!
STG:
*2 pull ups by end of 2017
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
*climb at Mt Ngungun wearing a Xmas hat and tinsel - Dec 17th - done (except for the tinsel)
MTG:
Mt Tibrogargan:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c)
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains (either Easter or October)
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
MONDAY
AM training
2 sets
x10 zombie lunges each leg (12kg kettlebell)
x6 single-leg kettlebell romanian deadlift (12kg)
x8 each leg pistol squats
x20 each arm single arm kettlebell row (12kg)
x4 sets, x8 reps one leg barbell squat (15kg, 25kg, 25kg, 30kg)
4 sets (12kg, 15kg, 10kg, 12kg)
x15 ball slams
x15 ball throws over shoulder
2 sets
x10 Hyperextensions (Back Extensions)
x10 each arm resistance twists
PM Indoor Climb
In the gym - assisted chin ups with resistance band / physio exercises
Top-rope session - climbed a few 22/23's. Some new projects to work on. Tried an overhang but arms just felt shattered, probably from ball slams.
TUESDAY
AM Indoor Climb
4x4's
Physio exercises
WEDNESDAY
AM Training
4 sets
x5 each arm kettlebell windmills (8kg & 10kg kettlebell)
x20 triceps dip
4 sets
x5 each leg kettlebell leg raise (8kg)
x5 each arm, single-arm long bar row
x5 each leg, single leg glute bridge with feet on the bench (2 sets with 10kg kettlebell)
5 push ups
3 sets
1min raised leg core hold
20 each leg mountain climbers
20 each leg high knees
Thursday/Friday/Saturday - rest
SUNDAY
Climbing at Mt Ngungun
Aim of the day was to get a friend to do her first lead. We spent most of the day on a beginners wall. The climbs were fun and the rock was good fun to climbing on, except when I pulled off a tennis ball size piece of rock off that luckily missed my belayer.
- After lunch climbed a super sketchy 17/5b. Was going to lead it but after watching my friend freak out at the ridiculously high first bolt (it was so high my clipstick could not reach it) I decided to top it. Was a fun crimpy climb.
- Also climbed in my xmas hat for most of the day!! Climbing goals for the year complete. ha!
In reply to AlanLittle:
Hi Alan,
Andy has given you good advice on training for your next two trips. However, I think it's worth thinking about things from the perspective of your long term goal too. 8a is a big step up from 7b and personally I think you'll make it more difficult if you only focus on periodised programs trip-by-trip. Maybe ask a coach, but what I found and what I have recently seen Steve Bechtel writing on his website (climbstrong) is the importance of focusing on one thing for a long period if you really want to make big gains.
So what I mean by this, is that you should perhaps be focusing all (or almost all) of your sessions on one aspect of performance for a year or two. Not a mixture of routes, bouldering and fingerboarding all in the same week.
This is particularly important if you need a lot more strength/power and I'm sure you could use the same approach to really improve your aerocap. But if you decide to go down this route, you need to decide what to do yourself. I would think about the sort of 8a you want to do and what you need to improve the most for it, but also what you enjoy. There is no point planning on 2 years doing something you don't enjoy so much or you'll never stick to it.
Just some stuff to think about.
Si
> STG: ???
> MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems
> LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
> Not really sure what I am, or should be doing at the moment. What I am doing isn't going well & feels aimless. Perhaps I should have taken a longer break after Kalymnos, as I originally intended to. And the on/off low level virus lurgy thing for the last couple of weeks certainly isn't helping and hasn't gone away yet.
> Don't know if what I should actually be doing is a base mileage phase in preparation for a spring sport climbing trip (Kalymnos Take II?) after Font at Easter, or trying to get some kind of bouldering fluency back together *for* Font at Easter. Am doing neither.
Hi Alan,
Andy has given you good advice on training for your next two trips. However, I think it's worth thinking about things from the perspective of your long term goal too. 8a is a big step up from 7b and personally I think you'll make it more difficult if you only focus on periodised programs trip-by-trip. Maybe ask a coach, but what I found and what I have recently seen Steve Bechtel writing on his website (climbstrong) is the importance of focusing on one thing for a long period if you really want to make big gains.
So what I mean by this, is that you should perhaps be focusing all (or almost all) of your sessions on one aspect of performance for a year or two. Not a mixture of routes, bouldering and fingerboarding all in the same week.
This is particularly important if you need a lot more strength/power and I'm sure you could use the same approach to really improve your aerocap. But if you decide to go down this route, you need to decide what to do yourself. I would think about the sort of 8a you want to do and what you need to improve the most for it, but also what you enjoy. There is no point planning on 2 years doing something you don't enjoy so much or you'll never stick to it.
Just some stuff to think about.
Si
4
1
1
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 3lbs
M - S - Rest
I did randomly do a one set of 10 push ups during the week, but they don't count. I'll try and up that. At the moment I guess the top five would be:
1 - Head / Motivation
2 - General endurance
3 - Power
4 - Power endurance
5 - Footwork
I think my footwork is ok, but it could always be better. Where I normally am gradewise is about 6b-c. While most of the South Wales sandstone is rather fingery, I never find that's a limiter really. The limestone is much more power and endurance, again fingers seem less important at my level. I'm sure it's different at higher levels, but it's just not affected me yet. Again I'm hoping that with a bit more sleep, motivation will return and I'll have the ability to get some more stuff done.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st 3lbs
M - S - Rest
I did randomly do a one set of 10 push ups during the week, but they don't count. I'll try and up that. At the moment I guess the top five would be:
1 - Head / Motivation
2 - General endurance
3 - Power
4 - Power endurance
5 - Footwork
I think my footwork is ok, but it could always be better. Where I normally am gradewise is about 6b-c. While most of the South Wales sandstone is rather fingery, I never find that's a limiter really. The limestone is much more power and endurance, again fingers seem less important at my level. I'm sure it's different at higher levels, but it's just not affected me yet. Again I'm hoping that with a bit more sleep, motivation will return and I'll have the ability to get some more stuff done.
3
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
And just to echo everyone else thanks for putting the time and effort in on the stats. I find it hard to find the time to post let alone do a really good job of writing up and giving feedback on what everyone else is doing.
Not a very good week for me last week as work/family life had to take over. I'm now on about -50 points for drinking and overeating
STG-Next week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches, 220 meters)
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace
1x run - 45 min
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
m - Work
T - Work
W - Work
T- Indoor climbing routes up to 6b
F - 2 rounds conditioning TFTNA
S - AM - Sport climbing at Wynd Cliff. Climbing up to 6b.
PM - Run 7.6km, 7:00 min per km, 273 meters accent
S - Family Day
Lee
Thanks Guy
And just to echo everyone else thanks for putting the time and effort in on the stats. I find it hard to find the time to post let alone do a really good job of writing up and giving feedback on what everyone else is doing.
Not a very good week for me last week as work/family life had to take over. I'm now on about -50 points for drinking and overeating
STG-Next week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches, 220 meters)
1 x Run - 1 hour 15 min
1 x run - Short - 20 min fast pace
1x run - 45 min
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
m - Work
T - Work
W - Work
T- Indoor climbing routes up to 6b
F - 2 rounds conditioning TFTNA
S - AM - Sport climbing at Wynd Cliff. Climbing up to 6b.
PM - Run 7.6km, 7:00 min per km, 273 meters accent
S - Family Day
Lee
1
In reply to guy127917:
Last month's Flu took a much bigger bite out of my general fitness than anticipated. Went indoor climbing last week and could barely breathe after a steep 6a at AW Sheffield. Headed up to Scotland again on the weekend of the 15th, took nearly two hours to do the walk in to SCNL. Had an attempt on Scabbard Chimney (V 6) but spent too long faffing and abbed off before the second pitch belay.
My total absence of appetite should have been a clue really - no food = no energy. Anyway, at the time of writing appetite has returned and main goals in the short term are to return to strength training. Hopefully the cold weather will return to Scotland in the Christmas/New Year window and I will get another shot.
> AWOL: Planetmarshall
Last month's Flu took a much bigger bite out of my general fitness than anticipated. Went indoor climbing last week and could barely breathe after a steep 6a at AW Sheffield. Headed up to Scotland again on the weekend of the 15th, took nearly two hours to do the walk in to SCNL. Had an attempt on Scabbard Chimney (V 6) but spent too long faffing and abbed off before the second pitch belay.
My total absence of appetite should have been a clue really - no food = no energy. Anyway, at the time of writing appetite has returned and main goals in the short term are to return to strength training. Hopefully the cold weather will return to Scotland in the Christmas/New Year window and I will get another shot.
1
In reply to guy127917:
A big fat nothing from me last week. Kids were ill & I got ill but should have done something. So lets try two days this week eh?
A big fat nothing from me last week. Kids were ill & I got ill but should have done something. So lets try two days this week eh?
In reply to guy127917:
Not a great deal to report: two wall sessions consisting mostly of heckling. And a nice but unproductive day bouldering with AJM on Portland.
Dandan: nice to meet you, that particular 6b+ is one of a number of reasons why I only warm up on routes I know at the Cuttings!
Not a great deal to report: two wall sessions consisting mostly of heckling. And a nice but unproductive day bouldering with AJM on Portland.
Dandan: nice to meet you, that particular 6b+ is one of a number of reasons why I only warm up on routes I know at the Cuttings!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Finally had a chance to read the whole thread!! Congrats ... and that crumpet looks delish
Finally had a chance to read the whole thread!! Congrats ... and that crumpet looks delish
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers for another week of stats Guy. Ah the WBL drama! I nominally keep track of Wirksworth WBL scores and don’t at Derby. I suffer a bit from not being properly local on both accounts so hard to get enough time to be competitive.
Derby runs 6-9pm one Friday a month and as we’re leaving work in oxford and trying to get there I rarely catch more than the last hour/45mins so it’s just a question of how many I can queue for, get on and onsight in that time - unlikely to have chance to get on everything or work anything. 30 problems, 10 point first go, 7 second etc. Lots of good female climbers at this wall so no much I can do about it apart from enjoy the comp!
Wirksworth is similar scoring but each set of 25 problems is open for 2 weeks for 10 sets (best 8 count). In reality we are up every other week and my priority is getting out on rock so per set I get an hour on a Sunday morning while Ben has a lie in. I am inveterately about 7-10 points behind 1st and 50 ahead of 3rd in my own special bubble. Again competing against a local who has multiple visits to work stuff (and is probably better anyway ! ), not enough time to work much and get pumped stupid towards the end of my session. I am, however, closer this year than last year...
Bad week of training. Sorry Santa. Too much eating and lack of training to note. A 1 on 2 off on 7a, core, bar and rings and body balance during week. Stuck in London and SE doing relatives things so only managed a long volume session at the Reach on Sunday. Lots of 6Cs and then some bouldering after.
Cheers for another week of stats Guy. Ah the WBL drama! I nominally keep track of Wirksworth WBL scores and don’t at Derby. I suffer a bit from not being properly local on both accounts so hard to get enough time to be competitive.
Derby runs 6-9pm one Friday a month and as we’re leaving work in oxford and trying to get there I rarely catch more than the last hour/45mins so it’s just a question of how many I can queue for, get on and onsight in that time - unlikely to have chance to get on everything or work anything. 30 problems, 10 point first go, 7 second etc. Lots of good female climbers at this wall so no much I can do about it apart from enjoy the comp!
Wirksworth is similar scoring but each set of 25 problems is open for 2 weeks for 10 sets (best 8 count). In reality we are up every other week and my priority is getting out on rock so per set I get an hour on a Sunday morning while Ben has a lie in. I am inveterately about 7-10 points behind 1st and 50 ahead of 3rd in my own special bubble. Again competing against a local who has multiple visits to work stuff (and is probably better anyway ! ), not enough time to work much and get pumped stupid towards the end of my session. I am, however, closer this year than last year...
Bad week of training. Sorry Santa. Too much eating and lack of training to note. A 1 on 2 off on 7a, core, bar and rings and body balance during week. Stuck in London and SE doing relatives things so only managed a long volume session at the Reach on Sunday. Lots of 6Cs and then some bouldering after.
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