UKC

I just got myself a Beastmaker 2000 after trying them out at local walls. On the Beastmaker 2000s at several local walls I can use a useful variety of the holds but my new board is so slippery that I can hardly use any: certainly not enough for useful training. Is this normal? Will it bed in? What is the best way to roughen it a little?

Yep... just needs to bed in. To roughen up, inbed chalk etc

The one at walls will have accumulated hours of actual weighted use so dont expect to hang what you can at a wall for a good few months. I know someone suggested roughen it up ever so slightly with sandpaper but i didnt

Ones at walls are always a bit easier but it'll get better if you use some chalk,  especially after it has bedded in a bit

Sweat and chalk will increase the friction. When you brush it, do it across, rather than in and out. Also, just check with a spirit level that yours is plumb vertical, it makes a huge difference if it’s even slightly out. Shim the bottom out if it’s not vertical.

I’ve a 1000 which I’ve had for a long time, and a much more recent 2000 and the difference in friction is pronounced.

Thanks all. I'll use chalk and be patient

That's a good idea but never mind the vertical. I'll just shim it out until I can use it, then back off as it roughens.

Just out of interest, have you worked out the 1000 before moving up to the 2000? The 2000 is a bit challenging on the slopers etc.

No, I tried both at local walls and thought the 2000 seemed best suited. Then was shocked at how different mine turned out to be.

I’ve been using my 1000 fairly regularly for a couple of years and it’s still pretty slippy compared to the ones in local walls.

It’s fairly common practice to take some weight off. I’ve a couple of pulleys set up with weights and clip to my harness for working new grips

Yes, I left space for pulleys at the side of the mounting board in case that was needed.