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UKC Fit Club 623

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 AJM 24 Feb 2019

Placeholder. I'm not sure who's on it this week, but if we don't have anyone I could try to knock something up tomorrow morning...

 Ally Smith 24 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. I'm happy to stat in the morning, but will need someone to volunteer for a couple of weeks after that?

OP AJM 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Ok - I’ll leave it to you then.

i can’t do the weekends of 10 or 17 March as I’m in Font, but if there’s no one else keen to take on a longer stint then I can pick it up for a bit from the 24th if someone can do short term cover in the middle. I’m easy.

 Ally Smith 25 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

Morning all! Stats ahoy: 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 3 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_622-7005...

Posters:

AJM - early season trad - when it's warm everything will feel much easier

Me - thinking about the power endurance surprise - you've been doing 20move boulder problems - that's where it's come from

Ianstevens - congrats on the STG tick with Trackaside - how are the max hangs coming along?

Lornajkelly - shoulder progress = 6a tick this week?

Somerset Swede Basher - Shoulder twangage getting better?

biscuit - yay - no more essays! Is the shoulder feeling better for a week off?

Alan Little - back on the aero-cap path of righteousness?

guy127917 - did you restart fingerboarding this week?

Planetmarshall - mending your leg with 6000kcal gluttony I like it!

Ardo - how was the trad? More this week?

Powerpuff - over the lurgy and back at it?

the sheep - the metronomic training continues - which event are you training for?

mattrm - WICC was a great wall back in the day, but sooooo cold. Back there this week?

Tyler - back on F&E? Sequence progress? p.s. I meant the link-up, not the original Breach of the Peace - a little step up to doing it from the deck...

Bones - how was the Coxsey core routine? Ab DOMS?

Rebecca Ting - beasted shoulders back firing on all cylinders?

alexm198 - Dolomites sounds spicy M6+ with whipper potential!?! Sorry i can't help with skiing - you're already above my level, but i would love to improve my off-piste so would be grateful for hearing what you decide to do

Climbthatpitch - Successful recorded this weeks activities?

MIA: Tom Green; SFrancis; Cyan

 Ally Smith 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Last full week before Spanish jolly. Not sure limestone roof bouldering is good prep for 30m tufa routes, but hey, can't go indoors when the weather has been this good!?!

Threw in some biking on rest days to burn some calories - last training tonight, then carb load and rest for thursday smash fest

Week 8

M – Boulder. Nuda’s again. Did a “7C+” in 3 goes. Shame it’s actually 7B+ (I now have admin rights and have downgraded 50% of the problems there). https://www.instagram.com/p/BuEJIdRhVkA/ Then got stuck into a project which chewed me up and spat me out as a bloodied mess on the other side. Just scraped up a 7A+ to warm-down. 

T – Rest. Daytime biking – gentle(ish) 23km/55min. Stretching.

W – Bouldering by lantern again. Tor was moist so sacked in playing on Keen Roof and went to Stoney. Nailed Fig. 8 after working out the body position. Failed on my 7C+ link-up project multiple times, did LGRA at end of session https://www.instagram.com/p/BuN-G0Vh4bd/  Home very late – burnt many brownie points.

T – Rest. Daytime biking – gentle(ish) 24km/60min.

F – Aero-power top up. FoC 90s on/30s off x8. 20min rest. Repeat.  Completed first set; second failed in 6th rep.  

S – Lovely sunny walk around and up Chrome Hill in the peak. 8miles. Spectacular scenery.

S – DIY & gardening club. Mastic tape line painting on point!

 Tom Green 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Hi all. Cheers Ally, for the stats. 

Apologies for being AWOL last week. I did nowt all week anyway as I was trying to get work squared up before leaving for Cham. 

A good-ish week, although fitness has definitely gone backwards a long way having not done any consistent training since Kyrg.

Week 8:

M: planned to skin up to Conscrits refuge, with a view to doing the Domes du Miage traverse the next day, but binding snapped half way up the glacier  Fortunately it was ok when clipped in downhill mode as our descent was a terrifying, technical weave through steep trees.

T: up to Cham for binding based faffing.

W: Mallory-Porter (AD+ 3) on the Midi -actually did this in guidebook time despite feeling pretty unfit -shocker!

T: skied in to Abri-Simond -got amongst a fondue party with a bunch of folk who were up to ski the Vallee Blanche under the full moon. Good craic, but a later start the next morning.

F: Modica-Noury (TD+) under the most relentless spindrift I’ve ever seen outside of Point Five! Great route, that took longer than it should because we only climbed for half the time, the rest being spent bowing beneath the onslaught! Note to self, never leave goggles despite the solid weather forecast! Skinned back to Abri Simond.

S: Skied the VB back to town. VB skiing like a pisted blue at the moment, which was nice given the size of our bags!

S: unexpected lurgy. Could put the brakes on next weeks plans... Terrible timing.

Week 9 Plan:

Two more alpine routes, lurgy permitting. 

OP AJM 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> AJM - early season trad - when it's warm everything will feel much easier

I hope so! To be fair, I got flash pumped to start but was otherwise quite comfortable on p1. If I'd brought trainers and a jacket with me on lead, to let my feet out and to get layers on before I cooled down, it might have been better, but of course I didn't want the extra clutter!

This week was terrible

Monday - doms

Tuesday - no wall, wife ill so had to scrap the wall to mind the little one

Wednesday - wife still grotty, miniAJM ill, had to leave work early to go get him

Thursday - miniAJM ill, me getting ill

Friday - me ill

Saturday - recovering, but still coughed myself awake at 5, which after the rest of the week wasn't helpful. Aunt/uncle visiting

Sunday - miniAJM woke up at 530, nail in the coffin for my energy levels. Went for a short walk to shops and about to get out in the sun .

Things can only get better!

 Ardo 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks for the stats Ally and hope you have a good 'un in Espana. More good trad had this weekend and hopefully more to come.

STGs, (Jan-Mar)
• weight target 10st 0lb/bf 14.5% (started at 10st 3lb/15.1% 1/1/18)
• e2 trad leads {✓}
• lead 7a indoor

MTGs, (Apr-Jun)
- weight target 9st 10.5lb/bf 14% (started at 10st 3lb/15.1% 1/1/18)
- e3 trad leads
- lead 7b indoor, 7a outdoor

Mo: General walking, 8.2 miles.

Tu: General walking, 10.3 miles. Physio.

We: General walking, 9.4 miles.

Th: Commuting walking, 8.7 miles. 6 lead, 2 a/belay.

Fr: General walking, 9.8 miles.

Sa: Crag approach and general walking, 8.1 miles. 4 trad routes.

Su: Urban walking, 8.8 miles.

Weight: 10st 1lb/bf 14.8%

Physio on Tuesday: piriformis and hip mobility, but not such a painful walk home. Getting there, so back to doc next week to start some hip investigation. Very average indoor session and a quality trad session, with an E2 tick on Brown's Eliminate at Froggat achieving one stg. Onward and upward, hopefully.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Hi Ally, you're getting a week ahead of yourself... that was this week!

Mon. Fingerboard repeaters, felt stronger than last time. 30mins on the road bike. Only short but v hilly.

Tues. Rest

Wed. 33km and 500m ascent on the mtb with small Swede basher on the back. Pretty knackered after that.

Thurs. Went to Roundhill in North Yorkshire. Turns out a 15min gently uphill walk in takes an hour with 2 under 3s with you. Didn't get ages at the crag but ticked off the 3 classic easy probs and 2 quality 7As that only took a few goes each. Celebrated by pulling something in my shoulder moving a bunk bed. Idiot.

Fri and Sat. Rest. Mini Swede bashers 1st birthday. Much cake eaten.

Sun. Shoulder still hurts but less so so got the road bike out instead of climbing. 64km and nearly 1000m of ascent.

 AlanLittle 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> back on the aero-cap path of righteousness?

Nope. Continuing to let myself be seduced (for the first time ever it must be said) by the lure of plastic projecting. Aka transitioning into my ancap phase

STG: Get outside some more when the weather improves again. Left leg pistol squat (see below)
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

M: Bike one hour
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Plastic project last minute victory snatched from under the routesetters' noses. 7a/+, my hardest indoor redpoint by a grade and a half: go me!
W: Bike one hour
T: Started an attempt at a max hangs session: aborted almost immediately on realising I was nowhere near recovered from Tuesday and had a pulley feeling decidedly tweaky.
F: 
S: Wall, Weyarn. Mostly aerocap mileage on autobelays, but also had a few promising goes on a nice little 7a
S: ... to which I managed to lure a belayer back the next day for the redpoint.

So, re STG. Not for the first time, I noticed whilst warming up on some slab boulders that I am hopelessly weak at high step-up / rock-overs. Might be strength, might be more of a technique/coordination thing. I have an arthritic left knee that has been too unstable to do pistol squats for the last ten years or so, but it must be possible to fix this. Time for a regime of partial pistol squats & box step-ups.

Post edited at 17:59
 Powderpuff 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Powerpuff - over the lurgy and back at it?

Hey Ally,

Naff all last week! Lurgy took me down.

However Im at the wall right now so yes.....im back at it

 guy127917 26 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

Hmm.... didn't exactly fulfill my get back to fingerboard statement, but your comment did prompt me to do it yesterday so back on track.

Monday: General bouldering, not a good session IIRC

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: General bouldering, finished a few of the orange circuit ("v5/6")

Thursday: Rest

Friday: 45 mins run, spent most of it thinking "why do I keep putting this off". Routes session up to 7a, probably did around 8-10. Fitness didn't feel too terrible considering I have been avoiding anything longer than about 4 moves for a few weeks.

Saturday: Bouldering at Birchen, did everything on the three ships (green circuit + couple of orange)

Sunday: Bouldering at Plantation, did a bunch of stuff up to v3. Made good progress on a couple of v4s- AB top and Business Launch.

Great to get out in the peak this weekend, what amazing weather! Starting to get into this outdoor bouldering stuff, but sometimes I still find it a bit baffling. Think we are going to get another pad for next time. I will also be taking my running shoes and trying hard to get miles in, even if just for short runs whilst away at the weekend.

This week back to basics- 3 climbing sessions, 3 runs minimum. 1 FB session, 1 long run. 

 SFrancis 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally.

Apologies for being MIA, I broke my phone on the second day of the trip, and was banned from using my partners phone to access UKC.

Weeks 11/02 - 24/02

Mo: 7km run around 35mins, felt good, cardio is paying off, felt fresh at the end.

Tu: Quick climb. Max hangs 1/2 crimp - 97kg x5, Woody 10 problems 3 mins rest between, TRX 2 x 5 I,Y,T, weighted pulls 3x3 94kg, 2 x 20 push ups

We: Flew to Salt Lake, Utah. Long day.

Th 14/02 - Sa 23/02: Skiing around Salt lake. Tried various resorts, Powder Mountain, Alta, Brighton, Snowbird, Solitude, Eagle point. Incredible, their car number plates say it all really "the greatest snow on earth". Skiied powder most days. Not skiied in the US before and I like there system of the whole resort being inbounds, it's common to bootpack or skin up various peaks with in the resort, ski patrol decide whether its safe, and everything within bound is fair game, meaning you can ski some rather crazy terrain cliff drops, and couloirs ("Chutes") within bounds. Because of all the brilliant terrain within the resorts, and elevated avalanche risk, we only did 2 backcountry routes. According to the locals there was a "persistent weak layer" and we had reports of people being avalanched but rescued while we were out there, reading the reports it seemed the failure mode was the the skiers had chosen to ski aspects warned against in the bulletins due to wind loading.  So we stuck to pretty mellow terrain. Fantastic avalanche bulletins every morning, and very detailed incident reports with the parties involved in the accidents usually giving detailed reports on what happened and what they did wrong. Also of note were the detailed incident reports by the UAC on the fatalities this season involving skiers, very useful information, I know this is a can of worms regarding climbing in the UK.

The two backcountry runs were brilliant with thigh deep powder through perfect spaced aspen trees, and brilliant bare face of around 30-35 degrees again with perfect powder, possibly a bit naughty given the avalanche risk but the snow felt stable. Alarm bells were ringing a bit as it was totally untracked, even though there were a fair few back country skiers, but people had skiied a steeper slope on the same aspect futher up the canyon, and no windslab / windloading. So we dropped in one at a time, and had to be one of the best runs of my life. Fantastic all round trip, and on the rest day we drove down to Moab. The sandstone towers were incredibly inspiring, will definitely have to visit with my rack sometime soon.  

SU 24/02: Flew back, arrived in uk ~11:30 a.m. 25/02

Now i'm licking my financial wounds, after two trips in quick succession. I tried to not eat / drink too much whilst in the US but this was a total fail on both accounts. So time to get back to training, and get myself in a position to start on my goals for this year.

Goals for 25/02 - 03/03

* No beer drinking for the week, at least no alcohol for 5/7 days of the week
* Healthy eating with focus on calorie reduction
* Ease back in to training, with a bouldering and route session, most likely pyramid style.

Depending on how I feel:
* 2 x FB, ease my way back in with reduced weight.
* 1 x weighted pull ups
* 2 x aerocap 1min/off
* 2 x TRX
* 1 x woody session

 biscuit 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally. Have a great time in Spain. 

Shoulder is officially feeling good thanks. Week off and lots of physio was the right thing to do. It now feels 95% pain free through range and more stable. 

Had a cardio week instead of climbing. Couple of good bike rides and a run. Also took the opportunity to start a serious look at diet. Learnt some good stuff about my habits and where I am making basic mistakes. 

Had a boulder on Thursday to test the shoulder out. It felt fine but not v happy on slappy dynamic moves (unsurprisingly). I think that may have been me holding back. I was failing to do moves on problems I had flashed.

Went to Trowbarrow at the weekend and couldn't be bothered with trad faff so went on the Red Wall traverse. I did it left to right last year so right to left this time. Surprisingly good links made. 2 overlapping halves. Main issue is the start (I hate it) and I've got no recovery atm. That'll come though. Try and get it before I go skiing at the end of March.

Sleep was good again.

This week:

Quick blast on red wall if weather stays good - sort the start out

2 x bike commutes to uni - 50 miles

Boulder final on Sunday. I'm in with a shout if the shoulder plays ball.

Lots of physio for shoulder 

 Lornajkelly 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks Ally.

It's been a quiet week for training because of being unwell (and a weekend in Bournemouth) but I've done what I can:

M - rest

Tu - rest

W - couch to 5k week 4 (repeat).  Went mid-afternoon rather than evening just before dinner, and I think the extra energy from being the right side of a meal made a lot of difference.  It was back to fun, so I need to make sure I have a mid-afternoon snack on run days rather than nothing for 6 hours then beasting myself.

Th - Climbing.  Tried the ridiculous new slab routes at the Big Depot (who is Beef the setter and why do they hate slabs so much :'D).  Also did two 6as on toprope!  Still hard but I think I'm getting stronger and trusting my shoulder more.  It's nice to climb hard stuff and I buzzed off the endorphin rush for quite a while afterwards!  I'll wait until they feel more manageable before I push it to find a 6a+.  I also did an overhang for the first time since the route I injured my shoulder on in November, which felt fantastic.  You don't half feel all the weight you've put on though, when you're hauling yourself over an overhang!

F to Su - away in Bournemouth.  Sunday we went for a walk by the river which worked out around 2.5 miles so better than nothing, especially considering the amount of painkillers I was on!

STG - Toprope 6a indoors (TICK - a few more and I'll consider it my working grade again)

MTG (end of 2019) - Lead five VS routes outdoors

LTG (end of 2021) - Climb an E-grade slate classic, possible CTD, style unimportant.

 ianstevens 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers for the stats as always. 

> Ianstevens - congrats on the STG tick with Trackaside - how are the max hangs coming along?

Cheers - pretty pleased as its a mark of progress (tried pre-christmas and couldn't do it) so nice to see training reaping rewards. I suspect your max hang question may be slightly loaded in that if you keep and eye on Lattice social media you already know the answer... But if not, smashed them - 92.4 kg total on the AA slot for 7 seconds. Again, very pleased! Hoping this translates to a CWIF performance at the weekend, and of course some stuff on the grit - some things in mind both above pads and on gear. Hoping the weather hangs on!

On a less positive note, missed a strength session due to a bit of general lethargy (yes, I rested!) so not going to get full marks on the completion STG. Most of these are coming to an end soon so will come up with new ones next week.

Goals

STGs: 1) Max Hangs on the AA slot to 90.5kg (done - 92.4kg on 21/2). 2) Get up any 7A boulder (done - Trackside) ; 3) Complete all planned sessions for weeks up to the start of March (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs) (7/9) 4) Triple figures of points in the CWIF (in the 70s last year IIRC).

MTG (April 2019): 1) Climb >10 7s (sport) by the end of April. 2) Down to 70.5 kg in same period (currently 72.1 kg, 7 day average)

LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a. 7.5 hours for the Snowdon Skyline race (Sept 2019).

Last week (2019.8)

Bit of a mixed bag - some great performances (new 20 mm edge max, new FTP and nearly a 5k PB), but some lethargy meant a reduced load.

Mon: 1) Yoga; 2) Unstructured social boulder session, <6C ish - felt shagged.

Tues: 1) Yoga... and nothing else!

Weds: 1) Yoga; 2) Turbo (Zwift race, NP 239W, estimated FTP up to 237W); 3) Lattice hip and leg flexibility

Thurs: 1) Yoga; 2) Max Hang Assessment (AA slot) - max up to 92.4kg total; 3) Run - 3 min efforts x 6 @ 3:30 min/km

Fri: 1) Yoga; 2) 90% hangs on AA slot x 6 @ 83.6kg total; 3) Awful indoor boulder session (tired fingers...)

Sat: Raging sun but had to work . 1) Yoga; 2) Parkrun in 18:33 (PB is 18:32...); 3) Strength: Pull up 2RM @ +13.75kg, Lat pull down < 72kg; TRX IYT & Reverse IYT each 10x3.

Sun: Dragged the GF to the slate - she's not a confident lead belayer or climber so kept things easy - 5 or so routes <=6a.

This week (2019.9)

Climbing focus is switching to power endurance and getting out before I head off for a month in April with limited training facilities. So trying to get out as much as possible! Peak trip at the weekend incorporating the CWIF.

1
 planetmarshall 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Planetmarshall - mending your leg with 6000kcal gluttony I like it!

Yeah, starting to make some solid progress now, being able to get out of the house makes a big difference.

Last week's goals:

> 2 General Strength sessions. Increase to 3 sets. - Done
> Do a max hang test on the Beastmaker from the Crimpd app - Done

Tue - Strength and Conditioning (Pressups/Pullups/Ring Dips/Situps). 3 Sets.
 - Max hang test (Max weight for 7 seconds) - 66kg (Bodyweight - 2kg)

Thu - Strength and Conditioning, as above.

Fri - Attempted the Crimpd AeroCap Fingerboard Protocol. Rather tedious as I have to put about 40kg on a pulley system, which is a bit of a workout on its own.

Sun - Strength and Conditioning. As above but added a 30s plank onto the core exercises.
 - Max hangs from the Crimpd app. 6x 10:60 58kg

STG - Add a couple of reps to the Strength and Conditioning exercises. Continue fingerboard and leg rehab.

MTG - Leg rehab

LTG - Pabbay in June

 Tyler 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> p.s. I meant the link-up, not the original Breach of the Peace 

I've belayed two 8b climbers on Renaissance in the last couple of years and none of them did all the moves, one of them had even done it before!

It looks like spring has sprung and I've emerged from my winter training fatter and weaker than before but if this weather continues I'll be happy as I tend to improve outdoors (I think I must be the worst/laziest trainer around)

M: Rest

T: Down south on a course so went to Oakwood. Weird that such an extensive wall exists here, I didn't try anything harder than V4 and failed on many of those. 

W: Back to Oakwood, discovered the 10m woody with autobelay. Probably the most specific training facility I've been on, loved it. Nothings structured just a few laps of routes up to 7a

T: Decision time, looked like it'd be cooler at Malham on Sunday so decided to train and not climb on Saturday. Same as yesterday a few laps on the woody.

F: long drive home

S: Watched the rugby, vindicating my decision not to climb.

S: Back to Malham, tops off weather but did ok considering (after warm up failures again) nearly got through crux from start and did the link from crux to top again. Finished with a dogged TR of Duck Dive, good route, probably 7b.

Back to Malham tomorrow (Wednesday) but looks like it'll be scorchio again so not expecting much progress but the sunshine is good for the soul. 

Post edited at 23:38
 Climbthatpitch 27 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Hi all

Thanks for doing the stats Ally

I did record a bit better last week but that might be just because life got in the way of training

After PLanetMarshell put up his Alpine combine last week it made me realise I need to re do mine. Basically it shows that my upper body is still crap but my lungs seam to have improved a lot.

M - Drove home and had a drink with the wife must of been tired as I got pretty hammered really quicky without realising it.

T - No training this day, work was even a struggle with the hangover I had.

W - Repeated the alpine combine

                                                                      2018                2019

Box steps (300m) with pack and boots         40 min             30 min      

Sit ups                                                             35                    39

Pull ups                                                            7                     11

Box Jumps                                                       35                    47

Push ups                                                          18                    26

T - Run, 20km, 765m accent, 06:51 min per km

F - quick 1 hour climbing session

S - Spent all day painting so I am taking this as some form of training .

      Run, 10km, 128m accent, 05:38 min per km

S - Another day of painting, Some general strength

Lee

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cheers Ally. Shoulders sorted themselves sooner than the whiplash but all good by mid-week and in the theme of boom or bust it has been a boom week...

M: Early morning laps on Lower Traverse (f7A)

T: Core session. late evening laps on Long Traverse (V4)

W: rest

T: Austria. Ski tour 5k. Bouldering to 7A at Zell wall.

F: Ski tour 8k. Lead to 7a and bouldering to 7A at wall.

S: Ski tour 12k. Lead to 7a+ at wall.

S: Ski tour 12k. Lead to 7a+ at wall.

Love Austrian walls, especially this one - fabulous terrain and setting and good long routes (some 20m through the big overhangs?) Good powder in the backcountry and a couple of days of bluebird skies. Maybe need to squeeze in another weekend before Brexit...

 mattrm 27 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 8lbs

M - W - Rest

T - HiiT

F - S - Rest

I really thought I'd already posted.  Odd.  Anyway, here's try two.  I was supposed to go to the wall, but we had a couple of really bad nights sleep, so I was waaayyy to tired to do anything and bailed.  I collapsed into bed at 2030 that evening.  I did push out a 'hiit' session cause I felt bad.  Hope to do a bit better next week.  I'm going to have to put some serious effort in if I'm going even come close to 50% this year.  My 666 goals seem pretty distant as well. 

 the sheep 27 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> the sheep - the metronomic training continues - which event are you training for?

Cheers, I have several triathlons booked i throughout the summer, a solstice race and a half marathon in October. Very quick recap as its been a silly busy week. 

Monday - Friday usual mix of swim/run/cycle and weights

Saturday, longest run to date, 25km solo trail run on a wonderfully sunny morning

Sunday, rest!!

 grubes 01 Mar 2019
In reply to AJM:

Recently came back to climbing in last couple of weeks

M-F: Walking, should rehab and light weights

S: Depot Leeds warmed up on blues and whites did a few blacks and worked some red

S: Hudds wall, route for the first time in 18months flased a 6a+as a warm up, flashed a 5+ and 6b then dropped last move of a 6b+. Bouldered for a bit V3 ish range then tweaked my finger so stopped and rehabed for the rest of the day

 planetmarshall 01 Mar 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Bones - how was the Coxsey core routine? Ab DOMS?

I just took a look at that. Added the weighted crunch to my core workout (though with legs on the floor) - but Dragon Flags??? Bloody hell...

 Bones [:B 01 Mar 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Bones - how was the Coxsey core routine? Ab DOMS?

The Coxsey core routine is really nice and simple just to get me back into a rhythm. Some of it kinda needs a gym so will do some at the Castle tonight. I am looking for a decent gym in East London with some good classes at the moment so if anyone has any suggestions...

Definitely getting stronger with climbing and making progress on the wave. They have a few easier problems on there at the moment giving me an opportunity to send my first wave problem from start to finish.

Did a lead session on Friday and my endurance was pretty good considering how long it's been since I last got on a rope!

Peak weekend:

Saturday: Bouldering at Birchen, did everything but one problem on the three ships (green circuit and a couple of orange). I couldn't quite get the traverse. This day wrecked my hands, totally sandpapered! Then went and did a few more problems down on the crag but they got a little high for my tastes and hands were done.

Sunday: Bouldering at Stanage Plantation up to v3. Really good weekend out and big improvements in outdoor stuff. New boulder mat on the way for some of the bigger stuff and roof problems.

Was awesome to get outside, hoping to get away to North Wales in a few weeks to continue with the new mat.

This week working a little on core and wave.

OP AJM 01 Mar 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Cheers Andy. I'm happy to stat in the morning, but will need someone to volunteer for a couple of weeks after that?

Is anyone able to do this week and/or the two after?

I can do this week if noone else can, but I'm on holiday 10 and 17...

 guy127917 01 Mar 2019
In reply to AJM:

I can do it for a couple of weeks, will assume next 2?

 Tom Green 01 Mar 2019
In reply to AJM:

I don’t mind taking over for a while. I’ve no trips for a few months now. 

Know nowt about fingerboarding plans though, so would have to draw on the hive mind for those fitclubbers with Beastmaker heavy weeks!

 guy127917 03 Mar 2019
In reply to Tom Green:

Be my guest! (Let me know if you cant do it today)

 alexm198 03 Mar 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Incredibly sneaky last minute update...

Yes, M6 with serious whipper potential was indeed spicy! 

Basically just assorted skiing and rest for week 623. I learnt a valuable lesson in the Dolomites, which was that I’m not young/psyched/hard (delete as appropriate) enough anymore to doss in the back of a car and still get a productive amount of climbing done. Next time I’ll bite the bullet and get some proper accommodation so it’s actually possible to rest and make proper food between big days...

This week I’ve mainly been focused on getting back into the rhythm of training and building back up to pre-trip volume. 


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