UKC

Hi All.

Last stats from me... it's been a blast! Thanks for putting up with the nagging, inane questions, etc.

Tyler will be taking over -thanks in advance- but may need someone to pick up the next week or two? I'll leave you to it to fight over the honour of statting!

But, before I leave the stats behind, big congrats on some big weeks! 

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_656-711274

Posters: 

AJM -Good work at Cider Club! What type of press have you got? Getting boards in multiple sites around the house sounds like a good plan -a mate of mine with a new baby imminent has got a masterplan of the warm up board in the kitchen (catches his eye, is warm, light and pleasant) and a serious session board in the attic (away from baby disruption) -seems like as good a tactic as any!

AlanLittle -Best dream since Martin Luther King! Absolutely love it!! Sounds like a good specific training plan. And good to see that the power session is having the desired(?!) effect ;-p

biscuit -Really pleased to hear the finger is less of a nightmare than it could have been. I trust that has stayed the same this week and that you didn't get carried away and do anything reckless at the BOB? Re: pistol squats, are you just working on them by doing them, or are you adding other strengthening exercises in and using the pistol squat as a measure of overall leg strength?

Somerset Swede Basher -Brilliant blow-by-blow account of WK/GA! Really enjoyed that, thanks, and congratulations! Sport PB, eh? That's a pretty big deal. Sorry to hear about the finger, but you're probably due a light week or two after smashing the 8a+!

Tyler -Yeah... maybe the Copella bottle tactic isn't suitable for all domestic situations! Glad to hear the home rig is in action. Have you had chance to boss that BM 6c routine? 

Ally Smith -Sorry to hear about Mrs S's crash. Sounds rough. Has being nurse and general domestic goddess left much time for training this week?

Paul16 -45 mins continuous on the wall is pretty brutal... it makes my 15 min stints sound a bit pathetic! Is that 1 x 45 or split in to multiple shorter sets?

the sheep -Good work keeping the session numbers up... Good discipline, as it must be tempting to use things as an excuse to just put your feet up until things are sorted?! 

Steve Jones -Glad to hear the running is back on the agenda. It must be nice to get back to it? What's the strategy for juggling running, climbing and training? Some people seem to get on really well with multi-session days, e.g. run before work; climbing wall after work, but I find I struggle to get the most out of the second session. An alternative that I like, is to combine multiple activities in one session, e.g. Run to the crag, boulder, run back. What do you reckon will work for your STG?

Ardo -Aw no! Sorry to hear it's not all sun and crushing! Still pretty jealous though! Where has this week found you? Did you stick around in Teverga for a bit?

Bones -Am I right in thinking today was your race? If so, how did it go? Did Tigger style produce the desired results?! Also, how did you like the hill sprints? -strangely addictive or never, ever going back?!

Tom Green -Good work with the Prehab. Don't get frustrated with the tooling -it's only early season and every 'failure' counts as learning!

Niall_li -Sounds like some good progress on the hangs -some big numbers there! How many reps are you aiming for to count your weighted pull ups as a PB? Three? Interesting that you had some good moments despite feeling a bit out of sorts -maybe partly to do with a 'no-pressure' mindset?!

Powderpuff -Word up, homie! Glad you're recovered -well done allowing a decent amount of rest time. How was the progress on that V6 this week?

planetmarshall -Sounds pretty rough. That lurgy feeling of a completely empty tank is so depressing. Better week this week?

mattrm -DIY counts as a quality all round work out. And laying a floor sounds like it could be good for flexibility too! (Or the opposite?!) Any more % gains this week? 

ianstevens -A good varied week. Big thumbs up for fitting in some quality antag-style sessions. Sounds like a nice day at Castle Naze -I've not been there for years. Have you picked a likely candidate(s) for this winter's 7A+? Also, tell us that you didn't find out the hard way that the wall wasn't solid?! ;-p

annak -Sounds like an eventful weekend! Everyone healed up ok?! It's a shame you didn't get a last route of the season -I always feel that going out and braving marginal conditions should be rewarded by sneaking in at least one half decent route! Decent wall sessions this week?

outdoors.nick -Oh no!! That's crappy news... Really sorry to hear that, but glad that you sound pretty cheerful and chilled about it! Have you got a regime sorted to get brutally strong fingers whilst waiting for the boot to come off? I guess the silver lining is that it feeds in to the UK 6a goal (and those 6a routes will hopefully have a little more gear on!)

MIA:

Rebecca Ting, SFrancis, Liamhutch89, guy127917

Cheers Tom. We’ve got a little one - the actual section where the pressing happens is maybe 6 inches diameter by a foot high - that we got as a wedding present. I’d have to check what make. The sort of size where you can get maybe 2l of juice from the contents. We grate the apples in the blender and chuck them in. Got 2 demijohns on the go currently with enough juice pressed for a third, but waiting on that one in case I can scrounge more apples from friends at work in which case I might upgrade to a 2 gallon bucket...

I found last time that there was a lot of loafing in the living room at strange hours going on, so a decent kitchen door training facility was useful. I’ve now got a board either side of the doorway, with a lattice rung on one side and 8mm micros and 15 and 20mm edge (upside down campus rung backed with 1 or 2 layers of 5mm ply) on the other. Plus attachment for a counterweight pulley. Should be good for 2 hands on the 8mm, and assisted one arm on the 20mm and the lattice rung, hopefully the 15mm too once I get back in the swing of things. Then I’ve got a Beastmaker 2k and the 10mm micros upstairs together with weights, trx and rings in various stages of accessibility.

After a few weeks of slothful laziness, my plan is to start training again this coming week. I went swimming today which was a good bit of exercise. Walked to work a bit, keen to do that more if weather is nice this coming week. Be good to benchmark on the fingerboards too.

Looking ahead, not much planned until just before Easter, when we’re thinking about going to southern sandstone for a bit: fairly convenient, see family, etc. I’ve not been there for ages but did a bit when I was home from uni and things and have a lot of the classic 5b-6a (U.K.) things that I never did, so be good to do some of those really and try some of the bouldering. Then hopefully a bit of time on Dartmoor too which is quite kid friendly and fairly accessible. Maybe make some progress on some of my forever-projects on the boulders there.....

You've been great so thank you. You're still going to post aren't you? I may need some TFTNA psyche next year!

Continued my slow drift towards my op but did do some sort of benchmarking ready for when I'm back on it. 

F: BM2K 6C workout, did not complete

S: Finished my attic training facility (phase 1), its taken too long and cost too much but it is usable now. Did some FonC to work out how/where to position my feet then did two Crimpd workouts (weighted pull ups and small holds). I've since read Bones' figures for weighted pull ups and I am simultaneously impressed and embarrassed.

S: TFTOA - Hour's worth of squats with 6kg vest. Managed 372 (~220 meters) could have done that amount a bit quicker I think but would have struggled to do more. Could nearly walk downstairs afterwards so very pleased with the intensity of this exercise (also gave myself a massive headache which I thought was good altitude sickness simulation).

Cheers Tom, and thanks for all your efforts as fitclub chief encourager! Yes his hand is on the mend now (the secret is to keep it moist with vaseline as it heals apparently), should be good to go in another week or so.

This week was very much an indoor effort, it's rained every day this week. 

M: rest

Tu: bouldering, got up 3 yellows, got very close on about another 3

W: rest

Th: bouldering. My friend opened with "what's your goal for today" which stumped me for a second, I don't think I've ever really thought so explicitly about a session goal. I came up with "at least one move on a 7A, stretch goal is to send it", set about trying and to my surprise did indeed manage one.

F: rest

Sa: indoor roped session, although I had spent the morning decorating so arrived a bit tired already. Still put in a decent session, got to a new high point on the comp wall 6c+, and had a try of a 7b on toprope. It felt suspiciously possible.

Su: knackered but back for another roped session, after an hour we gave up and went bouldering instead. Did a nice 6C+ that was possibly favourable for the short and fell off many other things. 

My December sport climbing trip has been pushed back a month due to various boring factors, but I guess that gives me longer to train...?

STG / end of the year: lead an indoor 7b+, boulder 7A+

MTG / spring: lead outdoor 7b+, boulder 7A+

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 1lbs (2lbs loss)

M - 3m walk

T - 4m walk

W - 3m walk

T - 3m walk

F - Rest

S - Rest / bit o DIY

S - Rest / bit o DIY

I managed to pull a lot of muscles, especially some tendons in my legs, from lots of odd kneeling doing the floor.

Sadly my wife and sprog weren't very well over the weekend.  I also had to finish off a bit of DIY, which went a bit pear shaped on Sunday when I reckon I put a nail through a gas pipe when tacking on moulding.  Whoops.  So we had an emergency call out and the guy disconnected that pipe.  There was no need for it as it supplied gas fires which are long gone and will never come back.  Especially as I'm looking hard at alternatives to gas anyway.  I did have a plan to do some push ups, pull ups etc that evening.  But 61% at this point in the month is still pretty good.  I'm probably fairly on track to hit the 50%.  There's 71 days till the end of the year, I need 57 days to hit the half way point.  So if I can get another 7/8 days this month, then 25 the next two months, I should be there.

Also lost two lbs this month.  Very happy about that.

Oct 61%

YTD - 43%

Morning, thanks for doing the prompting and organisation! The 45 mins will be in one session but we're building up to that at the moment. Currently managing 20 mins x 2 with 10 mins rest in between. I can do 25 mins per session but only if I find some hands off rests!

The plan is in. In summary, phase 1 is - lots of endurance to build up a good base, mixed with movement drills and mobility/stretching. Jude identified some issues with my shoulder mobility that are holding me back so massage and physio needed. Anyone got a physio recommendation for around south Manchester? Could also do with advice on looking after my skin, anyone got a routine for keeping it in one piece?

There's so much we're covering that I can't really put it all in one post! Will give updates as I do new stuff.

First phase is 6-8 weeks before we look to add power, power endurance, etc. Next face-to-face is early December in the UK.

M - 30 mins core, shoulder care.
T - Morning: ARC - 2x20mins with 10 min rest @ Chapel. Evening: Stretching and mobility. The ARC should have been Monday but shoulders were a bit sore from Sat so moved the session by 12 hours. Enjoyed doing it before work.
W - ARC: 2x25 mins with 10 min rests. Did this at AW so picked long route on the back wall and lapped it. Any colour for feet.
T - Stretching and shoulder mobility in the evening.
F - ARC - 2x25 mins with 10 min rest @ Chapel. 30 mins core.
S - Rest! Walked the dog and went to the pub. Finished with a curry, feeling very rested by the end of the night.
S - Hung over so only dog walking. Feel bad for missing a session so going to the Chapel before work on Monday.

STG (Early Dec 2019): Build a base of endurance and good movement habits. Improve shoulder mobility and awareness of tension.

About to book a trip to Costa Blanca for early Feb so eyeing up some goals for that trip. There's a 6c+ at Sella I didn't finish last time so that's one. Jude has also offered to meet up for a few days in the South of France after New Year but need to work out the logistics of that one.

MTG (March 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a at WCJ & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+ at Chee Dale Upper, head point San Melas E3 5c or Wings of Unreason E4 5c at Roaches

LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Brachiation Dance or Garderobe at WCJ both 7b+


 

Thanks for all the many weeks of stats Tom :-D

Between my lurgy and her broken wrist we've been a right pair this week! I probably shouldn't have trained as much this week, as the lurgy has taken a while to sort itself out. Still a bit snotty today, but fingers crossed I will be alright for my film debut on Wednesday (more next week...)

Week 42 

M – Snotty. Ab and groin Compex only. 

T – Gentle session. Pseudo “Max-hangs” F3 strict half crimp @BW-3kg. 6x 10s. Static ring holds 30s in I, Y, T, reverse T; all about the rhomboid & lower trap engagement.

W – Still fighting the lurg, but dug deep to motivate myself for a BFR fingerboard session, as per Tyler Nielson protocol. Specific warm-up, then 12 sets of 15 shrugs (40kg on mobile board) followed by smallest edge hang. This started out on a 10mm micro for 5 sets, then 5 sets half crimp Lattice, before all I could muster was a drag. Boxed! Varied Compex session, forearm capillarisation, Brachialis ab & groin; all while watching “Age of Ondra” videos.

T – Secondary lurgy coming through? Previously chesty cough now a streaming cold. Middle2 “max-hangs” on shallow pockets. 6x 10s @BW. Felt like it was doing L ring finger some good, but other fingers were up to the task and more. 10min rotation of static ring holds and light DLs, then Crimpd tendon density hangs 3x 30s @ +17.5kg. On jug, 150degree bend, 30s hangs on each arm x2 for same tendon density effect on elbow flexors.

F – Ab & groin Compex only

S – Shopping/nothing but some stretches

S – Gentle session. Pseudo “Max-hangs” F3 strict half crimp @BW 6x 10s. Static ring holds 30s in I, Y, T, reverse T. Ab & groin elbow flexor Compex.

My #2 worst ever diy mistake: putting a nail through a central heating pipe.

My #1 worst ever diy mistake: taking it out again.

Ouch.  I did once flub a radiator install and have to do an emergency heating system drain and it did get a bit wet.  But that was on a tiled kitchen, so it didn't actually damage anything, thankfully.

It was a smallish tack for putting on moulding, so I might not have actually hit anything, but it was close enough to the old gas fire point, with a pipe going into the wall, that it was a definite risk.  I probably panicked a bit to be honest, but definitely better safe than sorry.  Also the engineer said that those old points always smell a bit of gas.  It's disconnected now and we can just get rid of it all, which is great.

Old style rectangular floorboard nail in my case.

Thanks, it's been informative and thought prevoking.

If I can get myself out of bed in the morinings then I'm OK doubling up (see wednesday).  Running club training is Tues/Thurs, and hopefully I'll be able to keep Wed as my main indoor climbing day, so hopefully should be able to fit other session in around that core mid-week block.

M - 5k easy run (25 mins)

T - nowt

W - 5.8k easy (29 mins) in am, 2hr 20 indoor (routes) at the wall in eve - finished off with 4 back-to-back pullups on the beastmaker, don't think I've ever done 2 consecutive pull ups before!

T - weights - bench 5x5 @50kg with 5 pull-ups (not consecutive - a couple of seconds rest between each), some core stuff, and a few dead-hangs between each set.

F - 6k easy (28 mins)

S - 7.2k (34 mins) including parkrun (5k) in 20:44 - quicker than I expected, but a way of of July's 19:05 (two hours after doing BGR leg 1 (21k 1500m climb) in just over 3 hours). Still, was happy with that.

S - 9.5k w/350m climb (50 mins)

Hey Tom, thanks again for top stat-ting. Still around Teverga: some much to go at and a great site at Entrago have kept me here.

Mo: rain forecast, so take a rest day and let skin recover.
Tu: 4 routes at Teverga.
We: 4 routes at Teverga.
Th: 4 routes at Quiros.
Fr: rest day.
Sa: heavy rain, so scoot off to Oviedo, where it's also raining.
Su: lots of walking around Oviedo, drinking coffee, eating and dodging the rain, before watching Real, (Oviedo), win 4-2!

Clocking up mileage and getting back into the swing of bolt clipping. Was looking to up my game, but this has changed to looking for dry! Can't believe I spent an evening of sun chasing road trip freezing my nuts off watching 2nd Division football!
Forecast improving, so get back on it this week.
 

Sad to see your reign end king Tom! Your era will be remembered fondly Sir but seriously you've done a grand job lad!

Tuesday: at the wall, re climbed couple of v4 problems & v5 problems. Continued to work on v6 which I still cant quite get the last big move on...arrrrgggghhhh.
Worked some more on the v7 which has a move to an undercut which is tough...but its still good training.

Thursday: cycled to the wall for the first time in a long time. Re climbed the two v4 & two v5 problems again, then tried the v6 failing on the last move COUNTLESS! times. Tried the v7 once or twice also. 3 sets of 20 sit ups and press ups, 3 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls.

Sunday: session at home. Easy hangs on the fingerboard , arms and back still too tired from Thursday to do any max hangs. Theraband exercises for shoulders, 3 sets of 20 press ups and sit ups , 3 sets of 10 leg raises and eccentric wrist curls....family swim....30 minute dog walk.

Aim for October
Climb v6 at the wall

Excited to hear about your 'film debut'! 

Thank you for such a brilliant job of chief whip at fit club. Ive no idea what you do for a living but I think there's room for a career change to motivational speaking!

Mon. 90 pull ups. Tried to do a pyramid set 1-10-1 but started to fail after 8 and a few on the way down too so didn't quite manage 100. 65press ups.

Tues. Big core session. Crimpd static core then V ups and sit ups. 

Wed. Rest

Thurs. Went to test my finger at the tor. Tried to campus weedkiller (I recognise this sounds silly with a finger injury but its pretty much all on big open handed slots). Didn't manage it but did do the only move I've not managed before so done in 2 over lapping sections now. Unfortunately I always run out of gas for the last 3 pulls so more pull up and campus training needed.

Fri. Finger grumbling - clearly I'm an idiot. 5km run. 

Sat. Pull ups at home. Some to warm up then 5x4pulls with +10kgs.

Sun. Rode my bike to my mother in laws house to join the family. 88km but heading east from Sheffield so not too hilly. Demolished pub lunch. 

With any luck it never ends up on YouTube...

Tom, you've been a hero with the stats, and it feels like you've put in a good long stint! Nagging and as questions that people are avoiding facing themselves are some great attributers to have as Fitclub stats bod IMO. So as always, thanks for all your efforts

Cheers - wish I could take credit for the planning element but that's the work of lattice. Actually quite enjoying the antagonist stuff, and placebo or otherwise, my shoulders are starting to fell both stronger and more stable, the exact opposite to a Theresa May government. Was a nice day out! Not a lot of tricky things there but that suited in all honesty. Can't say I'll be rushing back for that reason mainly, but a nice little crag to while away the day at. No candidates yet - the process of moving still has me departed from my guidebooks (it's a long story for another time) so yet to pick something. Also want to find something local-ish, so need to get out around here some more. Having said that, I'll probably end up picking one in Font/Alabarracin (Jan trip pencilled in) and aim for that.

I found out the semi-hard way! Not on the floor with a hang board and screws on my head, rather with a drill hole through some plasterboard above a lintel. Oh well. Have built an over-engineered wooden frame which serves the job just fine.

Hoping this week to get out on the weekend and try hard, but weather/logisitcs may prevent. Fingers crossed! Will also be getting my guides back so some reading time and list making will be in order.

Last Week (2019.42/L1.2)

M: 1) Yoga; 2) Valley: WU - easy climbing + hangs; Crimpd linked boulders (c. 6C); random problems 6C/7A; 3) Weighted pull-ups +2.5kg 4x5 and 1x4 reps (meant to be 5 reps but tired), Crimpd Stabiliser Conditioning; 4) Bike commute 12.4km

Tu: 1) Yoga; 2) Crimpd Floor Core; 3) Crimpd hip + leg flex; BC: 8.1km

W: 1) Valley: warm top as above; Crimpd Strength Intervals (6C); 3) BC 11.4km

Th: 1) Yoga; 2) BC 8.1km

F: 1) Yoga; 2) Stabiliser Condtioning; Press and Row 15/25kg (need to add more)

Sa: 1) Yoga; 2) NewBOCH comp at the Valley - 4.5 hour session, 211/300, around 40th. Dropped some points with petty mistakes (maybe 20ish) but also flashed some problems that I didn't think I would on first look. Semi-pleased.

Su: Bit tired but went to Slipstones to punt about on some 5s. Rainy walk in the afternoon.  

A week largely eaten by illness.

STG: Get over irritating persistent autumn virus.
MTG: Actually get up something in what remains of the autumn season
LTG: Rethink in progress

M: Bike one hour 
T: Long day at work & feeling under the weather; skipped my regular routes session at the wall & did max hangs at home instead.
W: 
T: See Tuesday.
F: 
S: Bike one hour
S: Feeling somewhat better; made it to Boulderwelt for what was intended to be a PE circcuits session but they had set comp problems all over most of the circuit walls for an event, so ended up bouldering instead.

Its v difficult to rig a top rope on Wings of Unreason and to be honest I think you'd regret it anyway. Its all about the leap of faith! It's a brilliant route. Really hard to grade. I think it gets E4 6b in my old guide but 6a seemed fair. I've not seen it at 5c before but if you are really tall it could easily feel it.

Surely the hardest bit is getting on to the slab if you're >6' tall?

Cheers for the info.

Just need the weather to coincide with some free time now!

It was and it went very well thank you. I really enjoyed running it. My goal was 1:30 when I started training 11 weeks ago but I soon realised that probably wasn't that achievable given that I couldn't actually run 10 miles and I was also training in the gym 3-4 times per week plus bouldering. I thought I might just manage it in 1:40 in the week leading up to it so I was very pleased with my final time of 1:35:36 - so much so that I have signed up to next year's race with a goal of 1:20.

Talking of Tigger - there was a woman running around the same pace as me for the whole race but she was a genuine Tigger - skipped the whole thing - I can't believe she had enough energy running like.

Not really feeling the addiction to hill sprints - think I might have had my first asthma attack :s - will keep going with them and perhaps I will start to at least like them.

Didn't do a lot of training this week to take it easy for the race on Sunday. 

Mon: gym

Tues: Hackey Wick boulder flashed up to V5 and then had a couple of goes at two V6 problems

Weds: gym - dragon flags have been excellent to build my core

Thurs: gym sets of 10 x 70kg deadlifts. 6.45km run - 5:42 min/km (36.47mins)

Fri: rest

Sat: rest and funfair in Portsmouth that made me feel sick for at least two hours.

Sun: 10 mile run. 16.32km run - 5:51 min/km (1:35:36 mins)

STG:
- 'Warmup' problem on the training wall at Mile End
- purple route in monkey house (F6b?)
- Great South Run, 10 miles, 20 October - DONE 1:35:36
- attempt a V6-8 route per session at Mile End or similar at other walls
- 10 muscle-ups using the purple and red bands
- regular 5 days of front lever work per week - 1 day this week
- 4 x 20kg pull-ups

LTG: 
- muscle up and front lever might be better off in here but I am being hopeful
- 20 pull-ups
- flash 5 V6-8 routes at Mile End

I'm just under 5'9'' and I remember the start being a bit of a non event. Maybe I just hit the sequence lucky? It was a while ago but would have been close to my OS limit at the time. Shows how preconceptions play a massive role in climbing, I though the start was just a formality so it became so. 

Yes, back in the saddle somewhat, though it was a bit of a thin week.

Mon - AeroPow. Route Pyramid at AW Stockport, up to 6b

Wed - AeroPow. Route Pyramid at Reading CC up to 6b+

STG

Last proper week of trainng before Antalya, so make it count.

MTG

Antalya first week of November. Will try and come up with a progressive ticklist, but at the top is

Freedom is a Battle (Short) (7a)

LTG

Post-antalya goals. Thinking of joining the Lattice-lite bandwagon for a Sport trip in the Spring (and capitalising on fitness gains for spring and summer Trad). Would love to have a crack at Octopus Crack (7b+) - can I advance a full numeric grade in 6 months?

Challenging, but not impossible?

My instant thought is that you stand a lot more chance if you are currently very imbalanced with one key area of the climbing skillset (you could define differently, but let's say strength, fitness, power endurance, movement skills in the style of the project, redpoint tactics) a long way behind the others. If you are more balanced and have to make improvements across the board you have fewer low hanging fruit.

Of the ones I listed, personally I think being underweight in strength would make it hardest, but I'm not sure my own experience (easier to get fit, slower to get strong) is universal.

How hard do you boulder? And how much redpointing have you done previously?

Two weeks to report, not much in the way of training.

Week 7th-13th Oct

Qualified as a Club Pilot for paragliding, really psyched, learnt a lot including riding my first thermal. Also discovered my previous comments about flying the alps was absolute bollocks, meteo conditions make it a serious proposition. Now the long haul of getting Pilot rating so I can go cross country in the UK.

Week 14th - 20th

In Kalymnos, a short trip and got a bit over excited on the first day and trashed myself, skin and body trying to do Nirvana (7b+). Decided to just spend the rest of the week doing mileage, trying a few different areas and helping my massively psyched GF fo a few more routes.. Favourite route was probably Fossil Wall (6c+) and Jurassic Park looked incredible and GF climbing Resista (6c). Sacrificed my climbing a bit to really concentrate on GF getting mileage and getting her leading head on. Was going great she was calmly onsighting 6a-6b+, which she normally struggles with much preferring to RP ~7a, so I was really impressed. All ruined when she was putting the draws in her old nemesis Biloute (7a) in bad conditions, (never known it so humid, as it was this year?), she did a few committing slaps above a bolt, slapped for the hold fell, rope wrapped round her leg and she took a huge inverted whipper. A little bruised, but didnt hit her head which was a relief considering no helmet, many tears, and a real loss of psyche. Absolutely tragic as she had been out there a week before me, and had made such great progress and spent the whole week talking about her plans for the winter in Portland / etc... She TR'd a couple of routes on a last day, said she was scared, and now has completely lost psyche. A rather upsetting end to an otherwise top quality trip. 

Er, I don't really boulder at all, and none

I think I probably have a better chance on routes that are more to the physical side of the spectrum than ones that are highly technical. I doubt I'm going to be doing 7b+ slab climbing any time soon.

I'll see where I'm at once I come back from Antalya, then I may look into some coaching to help with the mental game - that elusive ability to 'try hard'.

Missed posting last week but didn't miss training.

In terms of physical traits shoulder power and body tension are strengths, fingers are a weakness. In terms of technique i'm not very good on slopers, so I was really happy to do horn rib 7A+ the other night at Caley in about half an hour. Also worked Scary Canary 7B+ which felt very hard at night not being able to see the holds well enough so I will come back in the day time!

I seem to have plateaued on max hangs for a couple weeks so i've switched to a small edge with less added weight to see if a new stimulus will help. 

Managed to train at the depot a few times on the 45 degree board which is beginning to feel better each session.

The goal for next week is to do my first 7B if we get a dry day. Fancying Ben's Groove as was close in summer conditions!  

7b+ slab..... <Shudder>

I did think Antalya would be a useful benchmark when I saw it in your plans...

I'm not meant to be taking over until the 17th of November. I can do this weekend but not the two after that

Late reply from me. 

Thanks so much for all your efforts Tom. Every week it has felt like someone has taken an interest and nudged me along. Great effort. 

Not much to report, but what there is is good. 

I did the BOB on Saturday. I entered, not competed. I was sensible and walked past 6 or 7 problems without a thought of trying them. 

I also got a session of circuits in at BUK. Again nothing spectacular, just giving my finger some input. 

Its still swollen and sore but I’m doing more with it and it’s not getting worse so that equals progress. 

As for my leg issue yes I was just doing pistol squat progressions. Going to do some lifting and I’ve done a CrossFit session!!!

I'd just like to second, third, etc, what everyone has said about Tom's statting.  It's been excellent and I really appreciate the encouragement and insight that he's provided.  Sad to see you stop doing it, but it is a lot of work and it's never a bad thing to handover to someone else.

Very late log in. Not much to report as it was half term so was off with the kids. Got a 5k run in but that’s all.