/ UKC Fit Club Week 620

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Ally Smith on 03 Feb 2019

Placeholder - not sure who (if anyone?) was doing stats this week? Tyler? AJM?

I might be able to pull together something tomorrow morning if no one else comes forward.

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AJM - on 03 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Tyler originally said:

> I can’t do intro next week as I have a big work thing, can someone take over

I'd sort of assumed at the time that was 1 week, although reading it again now it's less clear cut. I haven't done anything yet... 

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AJM - on 03 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

Spoken to Ally and he's going to pull something together tomorrow morning, unless anyone else gets there first.

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Tyler - on 03 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

> I'd sort of assumed at the time that was 1 week, although reading it again now it's less clear cut.

Apologies, things have been a bit hectic and so I've not given it much thought (other than the intro I've not posted on here the last few weeks). Next week, I'm in Budapest so if I write anything then I'll end up divorced so need a volunteer.

Right team, that's January out of the way so time to knuckle down, no more whining about lurgy, sniffles or anything else. Its ok to let things go in January as its a shite time of year and there's still Christmas food to be eaten but it's only one training block* away from Easter when we should all be hitting form and enjoying the good weather here or abroad.

Posters:

Somerset Swede Basher - Another start performance, well done - I'm quite jealous of the running.

Alan Little - Not sure what you have, iPlayer, Netflix, Amazon? The two things I've most enjoyed are Homeland and Line of Duty (Homeland I gave up sleep for a week as the first two seasons were so compelling). Recently Killing Eve has been good on the BBC and The Killing (American version, first two seasons only) and the Good Wife (I'm very late to the party with this) have been engaging.

AJM - I know you've exceeded your goal for the week and that biscuit has now set down a marker for you (repeaters on the 10mm!) I'll be interested to see how much actual training you can do on them.

biscuit - Hope the shoulder isn't too bad. I'm not sure skiing in the Lakes is the best thing for it but if you get the chance you gotta go, even if only for the novelty.

Cyan - Hope you're feeling recovered, being sociable and feeling sorry for yourself is all very well in Jan but onwards and upwards!

Tom Green - We'll forgive you not going running in whatever footwear you had on last week as long as you are bringing tales of good routes in Scotland this week.

Ally Smith - Your weekend looks shoddy but 40Kg 3 finger crimp is not to be sniffed at, good job.

the sheep - the metronome 

alexm - Winter climbing in the Dollies does not seem very popular for Brits (apart from Tom Ballard!) so I'll be interested to see how you get on.

Bones - Instagram pictures of suggestive fruit are no substitute for videos of strict front levers!

Dandan - You're dead to me! (hope you enjoy whatever it is you do - DIY club - and see you back soon)

mattrm - Get exploring, it might be a cliche but setting out is the hardest part (says he who's only reaction to looking out over snow covered moors for the last week has been to turn up the central heating!)

Powderpuff- Boom, first V6 of the year, its pretty tricky to balance good eating and bad work.

Planetmarshall - Glad to see you back, gutted to hear about the accident. Belated congratulations on Ama Dablam, that's a lovely looking mountain; is there a link to your blog you want to share as I'd like to read about it?

guy127917 - Others will have to comment on your BM figures but this seems pretty impressive - "BM2K 15mm (?) 4 fingers both arms +25kg". Are these all half crimp for 10 seconds?

SFrancis - Another one hopefully able to regale us with some tales of outdoor climbing (not that indoor climbing is not worthy either).

Ardo - did you get to ride in the velodrome (or have you before), I went once and loved it but definitely felt like I was getting in the way.

Climbthatpitch - Consistency and even a double session one day, good effort.

*I've no idea how long a training block is supposed to be!

 

Post edited at 23:11
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AlanLittle - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Top de-loading week tips Tyler, thanks. Fortunately no longer in need of them at the moment.

STG: Get over flu - YES
MTG (2019): Double digit 7's including Frankenjura 7b+ project 
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

Involuntary de-loading week

M: Flu
T: ditto
W: Somewhat better
T: ditto
F: ditto
S:
S: Wall, Freimann. Lattice board benchmark for the start of the run-up to Kaly in May, and volume bouldering session focusing on up-down-ups and longer roof problems.

So, lattice board entrail readers of Fit Club: my first three sets (max - 20 minutes rest - 75% - max) are up on the last time I did this in November 2017, but the the later sets are down. Slightly in absolute terms, significantly in relative terms. What does this mean? 

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AJM - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

> So, lattice board entrail readers of Fit Club: my first three sets (max - 20 minutes rest - 75% - max) are up on the last time I did this in November 2017, but the the later sets are down. Slightly in absolute terms, significantly in relative terms. What does this mean?

To check - the third and subsequent sets are "the most you can do", with rest periods decreasing in line - a classic decay pattern?

If so, my very simple interpretation would be:

- the high point rising with less change in the bottom end says more power endurance

- any stretching of the curve, and an improvement of rep3 over rep2, speaks to good baseline fitness. So if later reps are lower because the curve has compressed, that might mean less aerobic baseline

- a slight fall in the bottom end in absolute terms says either slightly less ancap, or natural fluctuation, depending how severe it is. This one should probably move least of all so unless it's quite large and repeatable I wouldn't read much into it.

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Climbthatpitch - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for doing the stats Tyler

 

Another good week for me. Managed to get a lot done and stay healthy. 

M - Rest

T - Indoor climbing session. Routes up to 6b+. Current set a boulders is hard. I was struggling on some of the 6a's 

      Run, 8.8km, 362m accent, 06:40 min per km, Mostly z1

W - Indoor clibing routes up to 6b+

T - The start of the south wales snowmagedon. Run, 8.1km, 150m accent, 04:46 min per km, z3. Made the mistake here of when I got home it wasnt snowing so I put shorts on. Within 10 min of starting my run it pelted down with snow and wind. Opps

F - I didnt want to use a holiday for a snowday and stay home all day and not do anything so I packed all my kit on Thursday night and put it by the door expecting a really tough run. Got up early opened the door and to be honest if i really wanted to I could of drove in but I was comitted.

      Run, 17km, 200m accent, 06:15 min per km, z1

S - AM - 3x10 push ups, 3x10 weighted lunges, 3x10 overhead press

     PM - Run, 10.1km 384m accent, 06:28 min per km, z1

S - Went to  Wyndcliff Quarry. Repeated some 6a+. Climbed Better In than Out (6b+). Why do I find the outside 6b+ easier than inside.

As the rope was set up perfectly then spent some time working Tight Man's Tips (7a+) managed to get it all clean on toprope after a few attempts but we were both thinking there are to many big holds on this. Someone come along with a guidebook then and we found out it was an eliminate and the holds on the left were out. I dont get this why not just grade it at 6c.

I then tried to onsight Wilkinson's Sword (7a) but fell at the crux. Took 3 or 4 attempts to get it but managed to get to the chains. So spent the rest of the session trying to work this but my tries just got progressivly worse. Decided time to give up and go for a run.

Run, 8km, 217m accent, 06:26 per km

 

Lee

Post edited at 07:10
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AlanLittle - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Yes, standard lattice protocol as I understand it: Max, rest, 75%, then max every time with rest = work.

My rep 3 has always been a bit above rep 2 and still is, although only barely this time. And in general the whole curve is steeper than it was: reps 1 to 4 higher than last time, 5 to 8 same or lower.

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AlanLittle - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

> Why do I find the outside 6b+ easier than inside.

Don't worry, I often do too. Outside pelnty of routes are techy/bouldery - playing to my strengths. Inside they're almost always straighforward but relentlessly pumpy - playing to my weaknesses.

Having redpointed three grades harder on rock than on plastic, I have little sympathy with people who say all indoor grades are laughably soft.

Post edited at 07:21
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guy127917 - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Tyler- thats a two arm hang though! They are all 10s, some were slightly draggy rather than half crimp. I've been working on improving the half crimp grip specifically, mainly with some repeater sessions on my home board (BM1K). I'm hoping it's more of a case of improving the technique than starting from scratch with a different type of strength building!

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Run Z4, took it relatively easy due to recovering back- signed myself off as fit after this. Boulder strength session: Warmup boulders, 10ish limit reps on the wave (mainly fluro pink), 3x10s on /1 min off 90% 1RM weight- 33mm one arm hangs, 33mm middle 2, 35 degree slopers, back 2, front 3, 15mm, front 2. A few autobelay routes to warm down, but rammed.

Wednesday: General bouldering session, nothing much of note achieved

Thursday: Just managed to squeeze 1 set of 6 reps of the BM1K 6A workout in on the home board

Friday: Limit bouldering on the wave. Good session helped by psyche from a few others- progress on yellow route, fluro pink and RH grey (crimps).

Saturday: 7.5km Z4 run, can definitely feel improvement from the last 8 weeks when running faster at these distances, need to get back to disciplined long runs though!

Sunday: 7km awful run, probably Z3 ish. Bouldering session- wave again for about 10 attempts. Yellow is tantalisingly close now. Didn't progress on pink. RH grey (crimps) going ok. Some other bouldering on the new loft set. 

 

Good week in that I got my 3 runs, 3 climbing sessions in (actually 4 sessions + 1 FB session). Not sure whether 3 limit boulder sessions in a week is the best idea- feel maybe I should keep an aeroey session in there as well just to maintain some degree of fitness. It is nice actually progressing on the wave by giving it a little focus, and I am psyched for the fingerboard, so not going to worry too much about it. 

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AJM - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> AJM - I know you've exceeded your goal for the week and that biscuit has now set down a marker for you (repeaters on the 10mm!) I'll be interested to see how much actual training you can do on them.

Thanks Tyler - all a bit swings and roundabouts as whilst I did get the micros up and do 2 sessions on those I missed out on the wall (tired midweek) and a planned third training session last night (MiniAJM was just acting out all evening when we got home so once he was in bed I just wanted a sit down!).

I think the 10mm will be decent training edges .I used them twice, they're not too uncomfortable and I got fairly consistent results. The 8mm on the other hand, despite some stability of the 10mm results, were quite variable between the two sessions and are definitely more uncomfortable. I've not put the 6mm up yet - one for later this week perhaps - but I don't think I'd be able to use them yet anyway so it's more for completeness than anything.

Be nice to get outside really. My motivation definitely requires a bit more sight of the end purpose than its currently getting - being generally a bit more tired these days and with other appealing things to do with my time the degree of innate desire to fingerboard etc has definitely tailed off in recent years. The whole "keep chipping away for the long term gainz" thing is all well and good, but it has to compete with things that have a more immediate feedback loop...

Anyway, this week's plan: wall Tuesday, fingerboard Thursday, then gardening club with the inlaws plus either outside, wall or fingerboard at the weekend. That should be the standard pattern, and in reality I should be trying to exceed it...

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Ally Smith on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Ash. Given that you stepped up for stats this week, I'm sure i can do the same next week. Actually, sign me up for a 3 week stretch; after that I get busy again.

The 40kg front3 crimp is a homemade deadlift grip widget. Not as impressive as an actual hang! This weekend doesn't look much better than last week and there's still lots more DIY to do...

Week 5

M – Evening boulder. Multiple 7B-7C+ ticks including the Revelations tick of Jerryatricks (f7C+). Finally started feeling like I had some bounce again after a couple of flat weeks.

T – LI aero-cap (7/3/6/1 @40% x15) then Crimpd “compression” rings routine.

W – Rest/Gluttony.

T – Lunchtime Max hangs. Struggling with the cold weather and no heating in the garage. Equalled previous PBs and made progress on holds using pinky.

F – Rest/stretching.

S – 3hrs snowy hill walking around Tegg’s Nose; 12km? An-cap hangs. Strict half crimp front3. 7/3/5/3 x5 @ BW-10kg. Skipped last planned set as left ring finger was starting to ache. Crimpd compression session squeezed into rest intervals. Efficient use of (limited) time.

S – DIY club – boy do I hate over-head hand screwing in constricted spaces. Lighting job now complete. Hazaa!

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AJM - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to guy127917:

> "BM2K 15mm (?) 4 fingers both arms +25kg". 

The outside edge rails? That's a solid performance.

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guy127917 - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to guy127917:

edit: forgot I also did 2 sets of 6 reps on BM1K 6a workout on Saturday. Starting to fail by the end of the second set (ie on front 2)

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guy127917 - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

Yes the outer bottom row. I was fairly surprised when I looked back at last years training notes on that one. I am definitely dragging on that hold though, so there is probably an element of board 'stickyness' to it- this is the Castle's board so the holds are fairly worn in etc.

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guy127917 - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

+1 interested in whether you get results from the micros... 6mm feels like crazy talk.

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AJM - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Given my performance to date - ~5s on the 8mm and ~10s on the 10mm - I think the key to the 6mm is going to be getting from my current weight down to my "normal" weight and ideally onwards to my "good" weight. I think they'll be a nonstarter at current bodyweight, and the fingerboard where these would be mounted doesn't lend itself to counterweights...

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SFrancis - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Away last week so I've got two weeks to detail..

Week 21/01 - 27/01

Mo: A.M: BM repeater font 7A - completed all hangs, made a few slightly more difficult. Weighted pull ups 3x3 - +20kg. P.M: 10 min ARC session, 1min on/off aerocap, I,Y,Ts on TRX 2 sets x 5 reps/  

Tu: rested.

We: 10 min ARC, bouldering session a few of the new v5-7 set from Yann Genoux and Matt cousins, felt fair for V5ish, grea

Th: ~25min run (~5km)

Fr: Late finish at work. So unfocused bouldering session, but good fun.

Sa: 10 min ARC and warm up, a few goes on some harder routes indoors (7a+/b), 3 x 3 offset pull ups, 10s hangs on small edges 5 reps, 2 x 5 I,Y,T. 

Su: Nothing rest. Possibly fit in a ~25min run.

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Ally Smith on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to guy127917:

Interesting stuff 

> Yes the outer bottom row. I am definitely dragging on that hold though...

I can't drag that hold and it forces me into a proper half-crimp which the bigger slot-AA battery doesn't.

I've made some solid gains on that grip this winter, snuck in a PB with +35kg on wednesday (112kg total). I'm hoping that translates well to the more vert lime sport routes I aspire to in 2019 (Mecca in particular)

 

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SFrancis - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

I was away last week so i'll detail both weeks.

Week 21/01 - 27/01

Mo: A.M: BM Font 7A repeaters, all hangs completed made a few grips harder. 3x3 weighted pull ups +20kg. P.M: 10 min ARC, 1min on/off aerocap, IYT 2 x 5 reps TRX.

Tu: Rest

We: 10 min ARC and warm up. Bouldering session did a few new v5-7 set from Yann Genoux / Matt cousins, really good. Very body position-y really liked the set. A couple of laps on a 7a+ route I had fallen off last week, went easily today, so managed another lap straight after. Great session.

Th: ~25min run (~5km) / Packed for Ecrins

Fr: Late finish at work. Date night.

Sa: Travel to Ecrins, flew to Turin and then drove. Painless.

Week 27/01 - 03/02 - Ecrin's Ice trip

First euro ice trip, and I've only followed a couple of routes on Ben Nevis last year so the goal for the week was not to get scared, and lead some ice before the end of the week.

Su: Very experienced mate took me to Ceillac and we climbed Easy Rider. I led second pitch so goal ticked for the week on first climb. Realised I needed to practice one arm screw technique, as struggled on lead. Did a little practice, then led the first pitch of "Sombre Heros", before following friend cleanly up the second, got pumped silly. Ice was "virgin" which meant you had to clear it with axes, felt hard. Finished by climbing first pitch of "Forme du Chaos", got a bit too committed, trying to take steepest line as I didn't know what to make of the featured ice, and the thought the smooth stuff looked easier to protect. Got pumped but made it to belay, Felt I had maybe gone a little too far, had a word with myself. The rest of our group watched from the bar across the valley, i think they enjoyed the show.

Mo: Back to Ceillac, for "Holiday on Ice" with less experienced partner. Snow chain problems, busy route and partner backing off steep bits meant we didn't finish. Partner backing off let me lead the steeper bits whilst having the belayer right at the bottom so felt less commiting. Didn't know if the pitch we were below was the last one or not, so we abbed off, turns out it was back at bags by 17:30.

Tu: Fournel, climbed "Iznogood" in 3 pitches, I climbed top pitch through Petals and cauliflower ice, good hooks, but couldn't get screws in without snapping petals, felt scared. Calmed down found better ice, and finished.

We: Back to Ceillac, "Holiday on Ice" right hand, this time I led everything, and it felt like it had all come together type 1 fun, felt calm, placed screws properly from straight arms, understood the ice a bit better, finished the route. Had a brilliant day, and enjoyed myself.

Th: Back to Ceillac, for "Forme Du Chaos", Led p1 this time using the featured ice, again felt calm and happy. Its a full rope length, so was wary of placing too many screws but felt good. Led p3 which is apparently the crux, and went up the right hand side which was not stepped out and slightly chandaliered, which my partner confirmed was WI4. Got a bit pumped but felt bomber. Very happy. Climbed all 7 pitches of Forme Du Chaos swinging leads, again type 1 fun, brilliant route, never got too committed. Walked off and had a beer.

Fri: 80 cm of snow meant we had a day off and snow-B-Q. Happy to have finished on such a high.

Sat: Dug the car out and drove to Turin, chaos on the roads but made it in good time.

Sun: Visited family, and had a walk in the sun and a few beers.  

Trip Summary: Had a fantastic time, and seriously enjoyed the climbing. I think I had a very steep learning curve. I definitely got scared a few times, but never overwhelmed and kept it together. By the end of the week I had seen lots of different types of ice, learnt a lot and felt much calmer on lead. I think possibly my forearm endurance made up for the lack of technique, but by the end I was keeping hips in, and trusting the crampons, making sure arms were straight on axes. Will definitely be going again next year, and I think I would be happy getting straight on WI3/3+.

Post edited at 10:04
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AlanLittle - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to SFrancis:

> Sa: Travel to Ecrins, flew to Turin and then drove. Painless.

Ha! It's not bloody painless if you miss the turn off to Briancon and instead end up going through the extremely expensive Frejus tunnel and then over the Galibier!

Er, so I heard from my mate who made that mistake. I wouldn't. Of course.

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SFrancis - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to SFrancis:

Just realised i've posted one half written account and then a proper account in a comment below. Not sure how you delete posts..... Ignore the first.

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SFrancis - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

That doesn't sound so good.... The drive back was a little less painless, all the snow on the Montgenevre pass and it being ski transfer day as well, made for some interesting scenes, coaches blocking roads, people realising they probably needed chains a little too late...

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the sheep - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> the sheep - the metronome 

Cheers  It does seem to have been a very long January thats for sure. Still the evenings are getting lighter and if i knock off work early I can at least set of in the remainder of the daylight.

Monday, birthday so had a day off, ate lots and had a few beers 

Tuesday, 2km lunchtime swim, wussed out on the ride home as it was sleety and horrible out

Wednesday, 2km lunchtime swim and 26km ride home

Thursday, 2km lunchtime swim and stretch class

Friday, 2km lunchtime swim and 26km ride home

Saturday, 8.5km trail run in lovely cold clear coditions, them 6 nations and beer

Sunday, tad woolly after a few too many shandies celebrating the England win so rest day. Took the youngest daughter to junior park run to do her first ever one which was cool. 

 

 

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Cyan - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Ash.

Mon: Ill.

Tues: Ill.

Wedns: Back at work but exhausted.

Thurs and Fri: Wall x2. Short but fairly decent climbs. Bunch of stuff up to V5, close to brilliant V6 with crazy cross through move.

Sat: Rest. 

Sun: Long lazy walk along the river in the sun. Excessive whiskey.

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guy127917 - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

This makes me think I have definitely made a mistake somewhere... +25kg is 109kg total for me, but I don't think I will be climbing Mecca this year.

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Somerset swede basher - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Tyler, it felt so good I had another go this week!

This week has mostly been dominated by work enforced rest days and next week is looking like its going to go the same way but did get out a bit.

Mon. work/rest.

Tues. Circuit board session at the works.  Ticked the 8a I worked the other day.  Tried to do another couple of laps on it but could only get 3/4 of the way round each go.  Tried to work back down through the circuits to 6C.  Failed miserably at 7c+ but ok form 7c downwards.  Not feeling particularly strong but quite fit at the mo.

Wed+thurs. work/rest

Fri. Another running/winter climbing combo.  Did Arpeggio Gully II/III which I had to weave around a bit to find the easiest line.  11km about 2hrs car to car so not as Jason Bourne like as last week!

Sat. work/rest

Sun. Quick session at Stoney.  Tried to do Figure of 8.  NEED BETA (Ally?) I could do the 1st 2 moves and the last 3 moves but got no where near the move out to the triangular pinch.  Couldn't work out how to pull in the right direction, I think some weird body position is in order but I couldn't find it.  Hopefully get a session in next week to unlock this.

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ianstevens - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

AWOL last week for me, quite a busy one so didn't find time to get a post together. To respond to your question from last week, I find two fingerboard sessions in a row okay, with a few caveats - I always make sure my second session is a short and intense one (so max hangs) and spend a lot longer warming up, probably around 20-25 mins. Seems to work though and since 2nd December the total weight I can hang in the AA slot for 10 seconds has increased rapidly from a total of 79.9 kg to 88.3 kg (8.4 kg, or +10.5 % in two months). 

In the past couple of weeks I've also got entries in for a couple more races - a local trail 1/2 in March, and the new Pinnacle Ridge Extreme in the Lakes. Running plans are starting to take shape for the year!

Goals

 STGs: 1) Max Hangs on the AA slot to 90kg (currently 88.3kg) by 3/2. 2) Get up any 7A boulder - been struggling with these across the board of late; 3) Complete all planned sessions for weeks up to the start of March (3 climb, 2 hangboard, 2 strength, 2 runs) (5/9) 4) Triple figures of points in the CWIF (in the 70s last year IIRC).

MTG (April 2019): 1) Climb >10 7s (sport) by the end of April. Down to 70.5 kg (currently 72.3 kg)

LTG (end of summer 2019): Depends on winter progress - either a 7c or an 8a. 7.5 hours for the Snowdon Skyline race (Sept 2019).

Previous Week (2019.4):

Monday: Mixed gym session - shoulder shrugs (BW); pull ups (3R+7.5kg x 4); lat pull down (<68kg); dips (BW); weird crunch machine (need to not use this really, <108 kg); leg press (<162 kg); TRX IYTs and reverse IYTs.

Tuesday: 1) Yoga; 2) Lattice Max Hang Assessment (AA slot) - up to 88.3kg, not quite the goal but trending that way if #gainz can be maintained.

Wednesday: 1) Yoga; 2) Repeaters (Beastmaker 7Aish, BW/-10kg for front/middle/back

Thursday: 1) Yoga; 2) Strength session: shoulder shrugs (BW); pull up pyramid (<12.5kg), TRX Single arm row, Shoulder press (<15kg), Bicep curl (<20kg); lattice wrist extensor/flexor (10/6.5 kg); 3) Track run: 5 mins @ 5k pace/3 mins @ 1/2 pace x 4 (3:42/4:30 min/km) plus WU and CD, 14.2km, 83m.

Friday: 1) Yoga; 2) Lattice max hangs; 3) Core: Jacknife, L-sit to reverse plank, TRX press up, TRX knee rollout, weighted crunch (0 kg); supermans (+1 kg); windscreen wipers (+2 kg), lattice wrist extensor/flexor (10/6.5 kg)

Saturday: 1) Yoga; 2) Trail run 11.8km, 277m - was meant to go to a local fell race but the forecast was foul so I ducked out and went for an early run before it got grim.

Sunday: 1) Yoga; 2) Social Bouldering; 3) Mixed gym: shooulder shrugs (BW); pull ups (3R+7.5kg x 4); lat pull down (<68kg); dips (BW); TRX IYTs and reverse IYTs.

Good week, all sessions hit.

Last week (2019.5):

Monday: 1) FB Repeaters (as above); 2) Core (as above)

Tuesday: 1) Yoga; 2) Track run: 1600/1200/400/200m efforts (3:31, 3:25, 3:20, 2:48 min/km), 13km, 107m total.

Wedensday: 1) Yoga; 2) FB repeaters (as above); 3) Strength: Pull up 2RM test - 15kg; lattice "on the minute" pull ups, TRX Single arm row, Shoulder press (<15kg), Bicep curl (<20kg).

Thursday: 1) Yoga; 2) Lattice max hangs; 3) Track run - 3x3mins, 2x4mins, 1x5min (3:35, 3:48, 3:49 min/km) 15.4km, 117m total.

Friday: 1) Yoga and a bit of rest!

Saturday: 1) Yoga 2) Full day setting; 3) Zwift 24km 426m NP 162W

Sunday: 1) Yoga; 2) Lattice Max Hangs; 3) Bike commute 4.3km 70m; 4) more setting.

This week:

Less fingerboarding, more actual climbing - mainly limit boulders looking to build power for the next 3 weeks.

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alexm198 - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Hi Tyler, thanks for doing the stats and for the end-of-January pep talk!

Good week for me that was, for once, light on the training and heavy on the actual climbing. That said, I feel like I used the 'I'm going to Scotland on the weekend' excuse to shirk doing more actual training in the week. I don't want to overtrain at this stage in the programme, but at the same time I don't want to derail the progress I've made.

Last Week (Base Week 13/30):

M: Wall session. Kind of impromptu but I felt like going climbing. Deadhangs, pull-ups, dips warmup. Pottered about on boulders and was pleased to flash some relatively tricky things in the V4-5 circuit and make some progress on a couple of V6 problems that I've been working. I'm now a convert to the school of brushing, having rescued an abandoned lapis brush on Sunday. Amazing what you can stick to when you just brush the shit out of everything! Finished with some circuit board work.

T: Ice/mixed muscular endurance workout. 3 times through the circuit this time, which felt hard but good. 

W: Rest

T: Rest

F: Travel to Scotland for ACG meet. Due to train f*ck ups we didn't get to the CIC until 3pm. Went up to have a look at Cutlass but didn't fancy having an epic on the first day!

S: Stunning day on the Ben. Millpond still and periods of blue skies. Waded up to Tower Face of the Comb (VI 6) for my third attempt to climb this route. Both previous times were in low visibility and I never successfully found the correct start. Please to have finally figured out which of the many diagonal ramps onto the Comb is the right one... Super route, incredibly sustained and absolutely mindblowing to think it was done in 1959. Felt pretty pleased with myself until Greg Boswell appeared next to me having just done Anubis. What a mechanism.

S: Totally mental weather so opted for something short-ish and low-ish. Did Cutlass (VI 7) and got a good spindrift exfoliation in the crux corner. Sleeper train back to London and back in the office today.

Last week's goals:

[x] 320min Z1 (I'm spending Fri-Sun in Scotland so anticipate most of this being walk-ins)

[x] 1 ice/mixed muscular endurance workout

[-] 1 ice/mixed max-strength maintenance session

[x - probably got this wallowing in chest high drifts on the Ben] 35min Z3

[2/3 - I'll take it!] 3 Scottish winter routes

Goals:

This week

Get back on the training wagon with...

  • 360min Z1
  • 1 ice/mixed muscular endurance workout
  • 1 ice/mixed max strength maintenance session - you really need to do this!
  • If all goes to plan, Northwest Face - Bertolone Route (D).

STG (March 2019)

  • [5/20] 20x Scottish winter routes (inc. 2 VIIs)
  • 3x WI6 O/S in Dolomites
  • 3x Alpine routes

MTG (July 2019)

  • 3x alpine rock lines >700m >6b in preparation for Bugaboos 
  • Push rock climbing grade, aim for 7a O/S

LTG (End 2019)

  • All Along the Watchtower, North Howser Tower
  • 5x5000m peaks on the Bezengi wall, Caucasus.
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Climbthatpitch - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

I'm glad it's not just me

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Ally Smith on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

> Sun. Quick session at Stoney.  Tried to do Figure of 8.  NEED BETA (Ally?) I could do the 1st 2 moves and the last 3 moves but got no where near the move out to the triangular pinch.  Couldn't work out how to pull in the right direction, I think some weird body position is in order but I couldn't find it.  Hopefully get a session in next week to unlock this.

Sorry, after reviewing some videos it turns out i've done Fig. 8 wrong on both times i attempted it! I need to go back and nail it properly next time!

- First time I used whatever feet I like, and the wrong hand sequence by crimping a nasty little slot (O) instead of the low juggy sidepull (Q). This felt solid at 7B+

- Next time I used the right hands, but again used whatever feet i liked (instead of just the little edge, S). This was pi$$ for 7B+ and hence i did 3 laps in a row.

Look at the videos linked from http://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/73-stoney-middleton/boulders/356-tom-s-roof/problems/1521-figure-of-8#.XFhPB1z7SUkhttp://peakbouldering.info/areas/5-central-limestone/crags/73-stoney-middleton/boulders/356-tom-s-roof/problems/4419-figure-of-16#.XFhO3Vz7SUk

Everyone is in a "frog" position when the go from crimp to pinch; maybe something to play with? No time for me to head out this week as i'm off to London wednesday morning and have a metric $hit tonne of work to do beforehand.

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Somerset swede basher - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

Got to love the Stoney rules   Everyone looks so stable in that frog position - I on the other hand look anything but!  On all the vids people seem to pause low then drive back upwards.  I think this is where I'm going wrong as I'm slapping wildly as soon as I let go with the right.  Will have another play on Tuesday and see what I can do.  I think you can get a bit of a scum with the left foot without being on anything illegal for that move out - just don't use anything that's: good, an edge or anything resembling a hold.

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Ally Smith on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Yep - love an eliminate! I've not done that move on Fig 8, but did do it in reverse last week on Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) (f7C) - that was an all out lurch at the roof crimp rather than a down and back up bounce, but i had the advantage of being able to sight the hold, where as the Fig 8 move is a bit blind.

Need to get Fig 8,16,24 smashed and then i can leave the place alone, unless of course someone has magic beta for Quintesscence (f8A)?

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Tom Green on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Hi All. Thanks for the stats (and the forgiveness!) Tyler.

Minimal 'official' training, but a good bit of climbing this week...

Week 5:

Loads of Z1/2 from walk ins. Missed the core session.

M: Shoulder prehab.

T: Drive to Aviemore.

W: Z1'd (the new replacement verb for walking in) to Lochain for Deep Throat (V 6) -really nice route, solid 6 on first pitch.

T: Back in to Lochain. Partner took a gear ripping fall onto the ledge of the first pitch of Hoarmaster, leading to a bit of loss of psyche... ran away for early beers. 

F: Headed west for half a day skiing at Nevis Range. Whiteout and fairly rugged off-piste (lots of sharks) were good for getting back in to 'survivial skiing' mode, although less good for my ski bases. Z1'd up to the CIC hut.

S: Did the first 5 pitches of Route II Direct (VI 6) (at 6,6,3,5,4) without managing to find the traverse line across the slabs. Wasted a bit of time trying to make sense of the route finding before abbing off. Turned out the description in Scottish Winter Climbs (the guide that we hadn't read!) would have warned us that the slabs need to be iced to traverse (or three pts of aid). Slight annoyance at not getting the route was balanced out by having climbed some excellent steep ground.

S: Weather, conditions (of the mountain and of me) led to abandoning ideas of a hard route and ploughing up to the Douglas Boulder for an easy day up South-West Ridge (IV 5) (put to shame by Alex M getting stuck in to Cutless!) Walk back and drive home.

Week 6 Targets:

2 Core sessions

2 General Strength sessions

150 min hilly Z1

1 Climbing session

STG/Q1:

Scottish Tech 7

3+ classic Cham mixed routes.

1+ SkiMo summit.

Average 300m vertical on weekly runs. (Nooo! -rolling avg: 208m/wk)

MTG/Q2:

Lancs Aretes (666 goal)

6C in Font 

Average 300m vert running per week

Bowland run/climbathon

Welsh 3000s

LTG/Q3:

Cuillin ridge traverse

Lancs aretes (666 goal)

Average 300m vert running per week

Some of: Salbit Westgrat, Piz Badile Cassin, Grand Montets ridge, Innominata, Cordier Pillar, etc...

 

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Somerset swede basher - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

The 2nd move on LGRA looks mega! Proper leap of faith. I've not looked at Quintesscence yet.  Figured I needed to do a few of the 'easier', err 'lines?' first.  Presumably the start to cave prob at the tor is wet now so will have to wait a bit before I can put my endurance training to the test!

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Ardo - on 04 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Was just there to watch the National championships, so sitting drinking coffee watching people bust a gut. Really enjoyed it, though I'll stick to watching as my bike skills aren't up to track riding.

Nothing to report on last week. Resting the back, walking and stretching being the sum total of activity. Oh, and watching England clinically dispatch the Irish. More rest this week and hopefully a similar display against the French, then back on the training 'oss next week, (probably!).

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biscuit - on 05 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Ash.

I did indeed get out for a quick hit on the skis twice last week. Once up Holcombe Hill (I kid you not) and over the backs and once in the Howgills. Beautiful going up. Truly grim coming down. Lots of falling over. Got overtaken by winter walkers on the way down! 

Shoulder is improving but quite loose and clunky. Climbed twice on it. Once at the start of the week on the harder WBL problems at the depot. Not a great session. Wasn't confident or psyched. At the weekend we went to AWCC and did quite a few routes (about 10 I think) which felt hard after not being on a rope since September. Deffo been ignoring aerobic fitness. Onsight/flashed lots of stuff up to 6c and then fell off the second to last move on a 7a that a 9 year old girl I coach had on-sighted last week. Shame!

I think that was it. Sleep and diet still going OK. Got slack on tracking though so need to get back on that. I didn't bike as I skived uni. Lots of shoulder physio done.

This week:

Climbing - Depot - WBL. That will probably be it I think. I'll just do the easier ones until the shoulder is feeling better. Stick some dedicated aero work in there.

Bike - 1x commute = 24miles

Ski - Most of the snow seems to have gone so back to the chill factore.

DQS - 20+ each day. 25+ 5 days

Sleep - 7.5 hrs every day. 8 hrs 4 days.

Physio - blast my shoulder as much as I can

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Powderpuff on 05 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

> Powderpuff- Boom, first V6 of the year, its pretty tricky to balance good eating and bad work.

Hi Tyler, thanks for getting fit club going this week ....hope you enjoy Budapest! 

Indeed it is, ill keep doing my best with the diet while work is tough.

TH: ran to the wall and climbed v4, v5 and v6, then 3 sets of the usual exercises....ran home.

SA: 5 max hangs on the beastmaker ...sorry for the lack of detail...hecktic week for me too!

Diet still not great 

 

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AJM - on 07 Feb 2019
In reply to AJM:

> I think the 10mm will be decent training edges .I used them twice, they're not too uncomfortable and I got fairly consistent results. The 8mm on the other hand, despite some stability of the 10mm results, were quite variable between the two sessions and are definitely more uncomfortable. I've not put the 6mm up yet - one for later this week perhaps - but I don't think I'd be able to use them yet anyway so it's more for completeness than anything

So far, my conclusions here seem to be holding up - 10mm useful, 8mm quite variable/unpredictable, 6mm only there to keep them out of the way!

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Bones [:B - on 08 Feb 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Ash,

Very late to report my week but motivated by your opening statements. Feel like I can't use excuses so I just haven't written anything!

Last week I had some long bouldering sessions which were only ended by the closing of the wall. I was bouldering for around 4 hours both times and made some really good progress. Also, not eating helped, I think I got lighter and lighter throughout ;p. I was prepping for a comp this week at Hackney Wick.

All the illness is behind me so time to knuckle down. You are quite right, suggestive fruit is not the way to go on instagram. I don't think my lack of front lever will make the cut but perhaps some of my core exercises will. I set up a vimeo account weeks ago but still haven't put anything on it. Terrible behaviour.

Aims for coming weeks are to do front lever progression, run and climb at least 3 times per week. Although I am writing this on Friday evening and I haven't done the above this week. Working on it.

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In reply to Tyler:

Slightly AWOL - sorry...

M-W - nout

T - netball (rare win)

F - nothing 

S-S - bouldering at Warehouse. Going well up to 7A+

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In reply to AJM:

Yes mine are terribly in the way... *ahem* are you listening Ben...?

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mattrm - on 11 Feb 2019
In reply to Ally Smith:

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 8lbs

M - 4 mile walk

T - Rest

W - Rest

T - 4 mile walk

F - HiiT

S - Rest

S - Rest

I say rest on the weekend, but I was actually looking after the family in the plague pit that was our house.  What happened next should not be surprising to anyone.  Annoyingly I had actually done quite well exercise wise up till that point.  I would like to explore a bit more, I'm just wary/paranoid of going off for random walks in the hills with the baby in the Winter.

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