UKC

Ok, psyche video in and I've got the Alex Barrow's link back in.  I was wondering if we should do a v2 of the original articles list?  Also we're back on the right week and fingers crossed I've not missed anyone.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

This week's psyche video is Rot Punkt:- youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k&

Suggestions for the psyche video always welcome.

Last week's thread can be found here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_662-7130...

Somerset swede basher - Decent number of sessions.  Any further progess on Blind Date?  No idea about the skin I'm afraid, I'm too much of a punter to know.

planetmarshall - Welcome back!  Hope the physio goes well, it often takes a while and you've got to stay the course

AJM - RotPunkt it is then!  I've found that babyweight exercises have actually helped with my fitness.  Still an excellent week considering.  I hope Alison is holding up well?

annak - Walking sounds like an excellent plan.  Definitely talk to the physio.  I'd just take it easy for a few weeks.  Hope you're not sore or anything?

AlanLittle - Thanks for the vid suggestion.  Well done on the 6bs.  3 sessions, a solid week

the sheep - Take it easy and I hope  you're better soon.

ad111 - Well you've got to fix the lack of Ice Climbing then!  Glad you enjoyed the comp.  Well done on hitting the STG
The comp sounds super cool as well.

mattrm - An ok week.  Try and stay off the pies this week ok tho yeh dumbo.

Ally Smith - Did you manage anything?  A break could be a good thing.

Paul16 - Lots of good sessions.  I'm impressed by the amount of foam rolling you're doing.

Steve Jones - Nice solid week.  Hope you enjoyed the wedding.  I love Catbells, very jealous.

Ardo - lots of good walking there.  MH Max Hang?  Not sure about the rest of it.  Either way, good to see a training session in there.  Two next week?

Tom Green - Sorry, we're back on track with 664 this week...

Powderpuff - Get on the pubfit!  Get on the hard stuff (the v8 obvs) and try harder!

biscuit - Hope the finger and the rest of you are ok now?  Obviously (I'm sure you know) that with 4 weeks to go to a trip the name of the game is not to get injured!

Missing - Bones, SFrancis, Ting (where are yooooo) and IanStevens anyone else, just join in!

Cheers mattrm, very little this week from me but on the plus side it's allowed my finger tips to grow back!

Mon. Rest.

Tues. A very lethargic trip to burbage. Stacked a couple of pads up so I could try the top of Blind Date (which is turning into my current mini nemesis), got a sequence now and managed to do 2 moves in to the top.

Wed to Sun.  Consumed by lurgy. Too well to stay at home but ill enough to be too drained by work to do anything.

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs (STS)

M - 3 mile walk

T - 3 mile walk

W - 3 mile walk

T - Push ups

F - Indoor bouldering

S - Push ups

S - Push ups

Been a good week.  Got down the wall as well.  The month is 100% so far which is kinda what it needs to be.  That's bumped me up to 48% over all.  Still can only take two days off over the next 20 if I want to hit the 50%.  Started working a 6B at the wall, so if I can pull that out next week, I'll at least cover off a few of the 666 goals.  Which were technically 6a, 6b and 6c.  But I guess 6A and 6B might be it.  Which I'd be happy with.  Definitely feeling battered after the last few days of climbing and push ups.  Had hoped to do a run today.  But ended up removing the old dishwasher from the kitchen ready for the new one.  So ran out of time and did a few push ups.

Dec - 100%

YTD - 48%

STG: Get partners to commit to dates for spring Kaly trip
MTG: Be fit for Kalymnos in May; ideally get a couple of decent things done at home beforehand.
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

M: 
T: Wall, Thalkirchen. Ever more hideously overcrowded. Tried to do a base mileage session, but it was more a matter of get on whatever's free than carefully fine tuning the grade profile.
W: 
T: 
F: Wall, Weyarn. Who ever would have guessed autobelays at a nice quiet wall would be a better way of getting a base mileage session in than alternating leads in a football crowd? 5 x 6b, 2 x 6b+, 1 x 6c.
S: DAV Christmas Party
S: Wall, Freimann. The Plan said I should be bouldering, but one of my prospective Kaly partners called up wanting to do routes. Partner relationships are a higher strategic priority than training plans, so another base mileage session. Didn't initially feel recovered from Friday, but improved as I got better warmed up. 6 x 6b, 2 x 6b+

Thanks Matt.

Highlight of my week was probably a good wall session, some reasonable mileage on new problems (flash up to say 3 goes) and then got stuck into a project I'd tried last time, managed to tick it, possibly 10 goes in all. Also got on the circuit board, did the ~6b+ last week but did the ~6a one, 2 goes on the ~7a+ (decent progress, but tired at the end of session), tried some moves on the black (can't do individual moves, grade unknown).

Then also did a pullup session, where I think I made some small progress, and an assisted one arm fingerboard session where I didn't quite match previous highs.

Hopefully another wall session this Wednesday, done stuff already this morning so off to a decent start at home. Additional time at work is challenging, but managing ok...

Thanks Matt. Recovery week went well despite work travel and lots of DOMS from exercising ill prepared muscles.

Week 49

M – Post lurgy recovery session at the Chapel. Amazed myself by feeling strong. Did the 7B+ and 7B’s I’d be been projecting for a couple of sessions. 7:46 2km Ergo row was a hideous lactate bath.

T – Travel to Germany. Disappointing hotel gym; weights machines only, and mostly leg machines Did some squats, bench press (Smith machine) and some way too easy lat pull downs.

W – Final day filming – having seen the draft, I’m really hoping it never finds its way on to YouTube!?! Brief Crimpd “floor core” session – god I’ve got crap at these exercises - hip flexors really weakened from avoiding anything close to site of groin strain.

T – Travel home; flight delayed. Amazing hamstring DOMS from squats.

F – Physio session on groin strain.

S – Cave of justice. New highpoints on Halfway (into TC) and Nightlife. Smashed out TC and Cave Life off the bat. Great session.

S – 1st wedding anniversary – no outdoor exercise

Hi All. Thanks for the stats Matt.

A weird week -felt like I did quite a lot, but somehow still managed to not tick all sessions...

Week 49:

Was 80min light on Z1 and only did 1/3 Prehab sessions

M: Rest

T: V short Z1 run 

W: Road Run. 6km, 49m vert, 4:18/km. First Z3 run for months and it showed! So slow compared to the time prior to focussing on Z1 pace. Think it will be good for me to include a fast(ish) sesh every week or so. Climbing wall in the evening: Max Hangs and limit bouldering.

T: Core and Max Strength. Good sesh.

F: Hill run. 6km, 309m vert, 6:45/km, v techy. Felt hard after previous day's squats.

S: Hill walking. 4 hrs. Pretty gentle day.

S: Rest.

Week 50 Plan:

140 min Z1. 45 min Z3.

2 x Core & Strength Sessions

3 x Shoulder Prehab

1 x Climbing

STG (End Dec):

Front Squat 3RM: 60kg 

Deadlift 3RM: 80kg (Buy more weights!)

Tick off 666 goal routes.

Redpoint Jaz or Hidden Dragon (M7)

MTG (End March 2020):

Scottish 7.

Two winter alpine routes from my little black book!

SkiMo summit (TBC).

666 Goals (Basically STGs!):

6 Crack routes of each size (Fingers 2/6; Hands 6/6; Fists 0/6; Offwidth 1/6)

6 Roof routes (2/6)

6 E-points in a day

heeeeeeereeeeee

Right, with our women's/LV group shoe review published (here if anyone interested: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/performance_rock_shoes_...) and Women's Climbing Symposium 2019 done, I plan to do some more climbing if the weather plays ball. Didn't have a grit season last year, so maybe this year?!

Catch up summary since (?):

Climbed a bit (sporadically) including:

• Otto's Route (5.9)  (Forgot to sign the summit register so we'll have to do this again!)
• The Relaxed Ladybird (6c)
• Witches Point
• Haresfield Beacon
• La Capelle et Masmolene

General lack of fitness, weak fingers and cake weight making climbing a bit frustrating.

Went skiing for a day in October! Celebrated by buying some new AT skis (Black Crow Navis Freebird).

4x yoga classes while in US.

Canyons x 2 at Capitol Reef (Laughing Baboon and Happy Dog) as a logistics recce for the big goal of Smiling Cricket "The hardest canyon on the Colorado Plateau" (https://www.roadtripryan.com/go/t/utah/capitol-reef/smiling-cricket) at Easter. It's a very long tricky canyon with 23 keeper potholes, the crux of which needs a 50ft sandbag throw (x2-4 bags) which has shut some teams down for hours and a couple of people died in there. Add to this it is a day (5.5-7miles) hike in and out to basecamp so you have to have a good 3/4-night campcraft game to make the pack bearable with all the canyon equipment.

Ankle started working a bit and tentatively returning to netball

Pretty proud of the non-climbing climbing - it was a privilege to be involved in the group review, Lake District guidebook, Grimpeuses and WCS.

Booked in for a quick ski weekend and some Morocco rock over Christmas so hopefully that will be bootcamp kick-off and I will never look back...though kicking the hobbit seven meals a day will take some work... 

Thanks for doing the stats again Matt. Last week was a rest week so I indulged in just that. Did some good sessions with a tennis ball freeing up my shoulders. Really making progress there now.

"Lots of good sessions.  I'm impressed by the amount of foam rolling you're doing." - Cheers, seem to be making progress and the foam rollering is paying dividends too.

Saturday I got on on the MTB for 1.5 hours. Nothing too extreme but a good workout.

Only climbing session was a coaching session -

Jude was in the UK for the women's symposium on Sat so she stayed with us Sat night then we had a coaching session on the Sunday. Spent a couple of hours at the Chapel going over exercises, mainly warmup's and core stuff. She then assessed the walls and gave me some power endurance stuff to work on for the next training block. After the Chapel we headed to Rope Race - which we had to ourselves all afternoon! - and worked on lead, making use of the feature walls. Still not sure why more people don't make use of these old style walls. Perfect for training, especially when there's no in-situ draws. Brilliant session; learned a huge amount about relaxation, breathing, how to rest effectively and adopting the right mental approach. Got some good feedback (under statement); was told I have the potential go way beyond 7a. It's amazing how motivating that kind of feedback is, feel totally psyched again.

I have to sort my shoulders out, the tension in them makes resting a lot less effective than it should be. There's no injury as such, just tight bits which restrict movement. I know my lat's a are tight and when I free them up it makes a big difference to movement.

Changed my LTG from Brachiation Dance to Indecent Exposure after recommendation from someone who's climbed both. Means the grade is now 7c, which seems ridiculous but gives me a proper stretch goal.

STG (Early Jan 2019): Increase shoulder mobility, use rests correctly on a route i.e. have the correct body position to maximise energy gains. Increase power endurance while maintaining endurance base.

MTG (Spain, Early Feb 2020): Booked a trip to Costa Blanca for early Feb so eyeing up some goals for that trip. There's a 6c+ at Sella I didn't finish last time so that's one. Otherwise I'll be looking to redpoint some 6c+/7a's and see where I get to on those.

MTG (UK, March 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+, head point San Melas E3 5c. On-sight of Wings of Unreason E4 5c/6a/6b

LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Indecent Exposure 7c.

Cheers Matt. 

After the finger flaring up it now feels well on the mend. I’ve been climbing with some padding over the A4 as it’s pressure on the pulley that really hurts and I actually took it off to do a problem the other day. 

3 and a bit climbing sessions and a CrossFit done this week. 1 boulder, 1 routes, 1 circuits and a quick gonon the new circuits at the depot. 

I feel strong enough and fit enough but whenever I try to put a sustained effort in there’s nothing there. A shocking circuits session at BUK compared to my last one and similar on routes at Kendal. 

Im typing this waiting for a train having bailed out halfway round a bike ride. I had to walk up the first significant hill. I’m obviously not fully recovered from the lurgy last weekend. 

Nothing that can be done about it other than rest up, eat well and sleep well. Could have been worse if I’d got ill on the trip! 

Im sticking with my goals for the trip of 7a onsighting and 7b in a day. 

This week will be rest until Friday when I’ll have a circuits session and see where I’m up to. 

Cheers for the stats and apologies for shameful slacking. Got out loads at the back end of the week prior (nothing groundbreaking) so missed posting. Must do better.

Last week (2019.49/ L1.9)

Mon:

1. Yoga; Crimpd hip and leg flexibility.

2. Valley: warm up including some easy hang boarding, 123,134 and 144 on the campus board. Boulder triples on 6B/+ - strange session, never feels too hard but impossible to up the grade. 5 x 5 pull ups @ BW, one minute rests.

3. Bike commute 7.9km

Tue:

1. Yoga

2. Bowden - 6A, 6A+ and a 7A eliminate. Felt a bit easy but did ensure I used the correct holds. Maybe this is a good sign...

Wed:

1. Yoga

2. Shaftoe. 3 x slopey 6A topouts. Curtailed by drizzle.

3. Valley. Easy warm up without the hang board. Boulder triples (1/2 session), followed by some project attempts - pretty jaded though as this was day 5 in a row.

4. Bike 8.9km

Thurs:

1. Yoga

Work piss up and in need of a rest so nothing else.

Friday

Hungover. Drove to Wales.

Sat:

Comp organised by my old uni club with a good showing of old boys. A tight contest where three of us were separated by 3-5 attempts in the qualifiers - and I didn't quite make the cut due to some sloppy comp technique. Made up the numbers in the old girls final and flashed 2/3 problems and got up the other one in two goes. Fun day out.

Sun:

Hungover again (Christmas!) but had an entry to a local 10km. Went along to socialise having lost interest in running and not touched my running shoes in months. Plodded round in just over 45 mins.

Isn't kicking hobbits illegal? I know they're a bit annoying but even so

Had a week that looks OK when written down but felt pretty poor. I need to make sure I get out of a session feeling that it was productive. However, I've reached the end of my planned training cycle and am on holiday in a week so it's not terrible if I don't push too hard.

Monday: Max hangs & max pulls

Tuesday: Tried out new wooden moonboard holds

Wednesday: Rest

Thursday: Konala free climb and core

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Moonboard session - pretty depressing, even after two days off i'm crap on a board

STG: Gain another 2.5kg pullup strength by the end of February.

MTG: Start campus training.

LTG: 3* 7C in Spring 2020

So far so good - been out walking pretty much every day, and feeling really quite normal. Had a quick chat to the physio who was happy enough for me to just start slow with pain as a guide, so I think maybe later this week I'll try out some very easy yoga or bodyweight exercises. I reckon fingerboarding should be back on too

Last week's activities:

M: walk 1h

T: walk 1.5h

W: Back to work. walk 1h

Th: walk 2h

F: walk 1h

Sa: woke up bored and unmotivated, my very kind partner took me out for a walk in the woods for the best part of the day

Su: rest (the weather was terrible)

Totally justified if it's Merry or Pippin right?

Glad you got some Jude time in while she was here - she's a superstar and we were very lucky to have her on the team!

Yea, there are some pluses to living in Keswick!

Not a great week as far as training goes - I though other aspects were going well tho', but it appears I was being a bit optimistic...

M - aborted weights session

T - Usualy club run - pyramids. 13km, 90 mins or so

W - Day off so ran up Skiddaw in awful weather (15.5km, c.850m, 1hr 50), then a good 2hrs 15 at the wall doing routes and a bit of bouldering.

T-Sat - feeling a bit under the weather and with some excitement planned for Saturday I did nothing

S - hungover and miserable

Hi Matt,

Would love to be on v8's but the winter leargy has been trying to take me down! Only climbed once this week in the hope I could prevent a full breach! 

Tuesday: biked to the wall and climbed easy problems up to v4.

Thanks for the stats Matt. Unfortunately work, Xmas party, hangover and visiting family meant no second session. Glossary of terms below.

MH/max hangs, BW/body weight, IDH/intermittent dead hangs, (Eva Lopez protocol).

Mo: Commuting walking, 8.1 miles.

Tu: Commuting walking, 7.7 miles. Training session: warm up; 10 probs, (v4 max); MH: 4*12/150, (BW on BM2K, h4); IDH: 4*4*10:10/90, (BW on BM2K, h3); 5 probs, (V6 max).

We: Commuting walking, 7.2 miles.

Th: Commuting walking, 6.5 miles. Xmas party.

Fr: Commuting walking, 6.4 miles. Hangover.

Sa: General walking, 6.4 miles. ~4 mile country walk.

Su: Nowt.

Aiming for two sessions a week and sort out training plan as immediate goals.

Cheers, easy week but getting less sore all the time. Mainly out for a gentle walk most days. Nice bit has being out when there hasnt been many folk around so have seen our local kingfisher several times 

As a distraction from walking I went to the pool yesterday and did a gentle half km with no ill effects and feel fine today. May be worth considering if you are getting fed up of walking 

I did think that but then I spent Sunday getting a tattoo, forgetting that means I can't swim until it's all healed!

Glad to hear you're on the mend though  

Yes, that would put a stop to swimming. Randomly it reminded me that I got my last tattoo after abdominal surgery a few years ago. Perfectly timed for when i couldnt swim and could happily pop codeine so didnt feel a thing on the tattooists chair.

Hope the recovery is going well 

Haha nice, I was already off the drugs so I felt everything!

Recovery going suspiciously well, which makes it hard to hold back from proper training