UKC

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:- http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:- http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

This week's psyche video is from AlanLittle - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2gUmMSKxz4&feature=youtu.be&t=5430

Suggestions for the psyche video always welcome.

Last week's thread can be found here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_664-7133...

Somerset swede basher - Glad to hear about progress on Blind Date.  Sad to hear about the lurgy.  Hope you're recovered now.

mattrm - Less pushups, more running.  More climbing lazy!

AlanLittle - I love autobelays at walls personally.  3 good sessions, well done.

AJM - Good progress there, all in.

Ally Smith - With all the travel thrown in you did well I reckon.  Good job.

Tom Green - Still looks like a good week.  Well done.

Rebecca Ting - Hellooooooooo.  Sounds like you've being having a great time.  Guidebook stuff is very cool.  Glad to hear WCS went well.

Paul16 - Having some coaching is always good.  Keep up the physio stuff, it's well worth doing.

biscuit - Three sessions is great along with the crossfit, that's a good week.

ianstevens - Keep up the pubfit   Still loving all the yoga.  Lots of great sessions.

ad111 - That's a good week, especially this close to christmas.  Even the 'bad' sessions do plenty of good, just keep on trucking.

annak - Glad to hear the recovery is going well.

Steve Jones - Nice place to live.  Even a manky day up Skiddaw makes a good week.

Powderpuff - Hope you're feeling better now?

Ardo - Thanks for explaining the terms for me.  Well done bearing in mind the xmas party got in the way.

the sheep - Kingfishers are lovely.  Excellent to know the rehab is going well.

Missing - PlanetMarshall, Bones, SFrancis, anyone else?  Join back in! 

Cheers Matt.

Look at me being first! That's never happened before.

Yes 3 sessions sounds but they were pretty much all sub-standard hence the days off.

So I rested until Thursday when I had a climb unexpectedly. I was planning to leave it until Friday. Lucky I did as work over ran and I never got to go.

It was an OK session on the new short circuits at BUK. Onsighted up to 7a and there's a move on the 7a+ that by the time I figured it I was too tired to do the whole thing.

I had a little boulder at The Boardroom today but I was still feeling the effects of Friday night's work Xmas night out still so it wasn't very good.

This week should be better. Good sleep and good eating are the plan along with 3 climbing sessions and a return to crossfit.

Just two weeks left until I fly to Spain. I'll squeeze what I can in but my finger and being ill haven't combined to make a great lead up to the trip. But it's going to be amazing to be away and climbing so i'll just focus on that

Thanks Matt

Tiring week this week. I've been partially occupying the spare room of late - given my wife's unavoidably disturbed nights with microAJM feeding there's advantage in me being awake enough to handle miniAJM on my own once he gets up, keep him out of the way - but with visitors late week I had to give up on the sleep whilst still retaining the need to toddler-wrangle and go to work!

Managed a decent wall session mid week. Got the yellow circuit done, some stiff pulls but ok - and a few more bits and bobs. Started on a new project and had a brief play on the new board which is great.

Did a few sets of pull-ups on Monday but otherwise a very disappointing week for home volume. Just a bit lacking in energy. Hopefully a wall session again this week and more at home than I managed this one.

Hi Matt, thanks for doing the stats again. Lurgy cleared off by the end of Sunday last week so a full week of activity again this wk. 

Mon. Burbage. Finally ticked Blind Date Start (f7B+) as with all grit it felt fine when it went and I was left wandering what I'd been playing at for 3 sessions. Rookie error with the lamps only pointing at the problem not the descent led to a quite traumatic down climb of Mutiny Crack (HS 4b) compounded by a forgotten headtorch and leaving all the pads under Blind Date. Got to work on Blind Ali afterwards which is more my style. Managed all the individual moves bar a short section in the middle.

Tues. 9km run. 

Wed. Went to check out the new Hope Valley climbing wall. It's small and in need of a better dehumidifier but given that I drive past on the way home from work I'll probably go there quiye often.

Thurs. Rest. 

Fri. Back to HV wall. First time having a proper session on a moon board. Christ! It's hard! Didn't even get up a 7A!

Sat. 6km run.

Sun. 60 pull ups. First 20 and last 20 at bodyweight and in sets of 5. Sets of 2 in the middle with weights up to a max of +20kgs. 60 press ups. 

STG - 14st

MTG - Goblin Girl (6b) 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Definitely bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 5lbs (2lbs gain)

M - 3 mile walk

T - 3 mile walk

W - Indoor routes at Summit/WICC

T - Push ups

F - Push ups

S - Push ups

S - Push ups

50% is slowly getting close.   Up to 49%, which means 13 days to go with 16 days left in 2019.  I should hit this even if the only evening exercise on quite a few days is 30 odd push ups.  Feels a bit of a cop out to be honest, but there we go.  Been a busy family weekend, we went to a local christmas market on Saturday morning, then shopping around town and in the park in the afternoon, chasing a looning toddler down.  Sunday was more of the same, but we were home to make gingerbread cookies in the afternoon.  Inbetween blow-outs, I've been trying to keep the diet sane.  Did also do the normal walk to playgroup on Wednesday, just didn't record it.  WICC was good.  Awkwardly undergoing a fairly full reset.  So there wasn't much to do.  But got a 6a and got close on a 6b.  Which is always nice.  Just need to get some podge off and the 6b will fall. 

Dec - 100%

YTD - 49%

STG: Get partners to commit to dates for spring Kaly trip
MTG: Be fit for Kalymnos in May; ideally get a couple of decent things done at home beforehand.
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber by 2021, starting with getting up something big, steep & classic on Kalymnos in the spring. For measurable definition see Fit Club 658

De-load week, partly voluntary

M: Manflu
T: Ski school pre-season briefing & boot-fitting session today instead of the usual climbing wall rugby scrum. 
W: Still feeling decided snuffly & below par
T: Ditto, but managed a surprisingly good beastmaker max hangs session. Base mileage hasn't made my fingers weaker. Yet.
F: Voluntary de-load weekend: family winter outing to Vienna
S: Vienna: Dürer exhibition - amazing - plus the also pretty amazing permanent collection at the Kunsthistorisches Museum. I had no idea: this is an utterly world class gallery. Not entirely surprising I suppose, given that the Habsburgs were the richest & powerful family in Europe in the Renaissance-Baroque period. Bruegel's Hunters in the Snow alone would be worth driving five hundred miles to see.
S: Another decent beastmaker max hangs session in the evening after driving back from Vienna.

Thanks Matt

Awful week for me this week... Genuine struggle to find the time (as opposed to my usual struggle to make the time!)

M: Hill run. 65min Z1. 9.9km, 545m vert, 6:31/km.

F: Dry tooling at White Goods. Due to breakdown in comms partner was a no-show. I'd forgotten the clip-stick so couldn't even clipstick up something to put a rope up. Ended up soloing  Adams (they made me) (D5) to get a rope in the lower off for Apple (D7) and And Pears (D7) then did laps of these (five and two respectively) on GriGri toprope solo. Frickin terrifying for the first few moves... trying to pull slack through whilst going horizontal through the overhangs!

Must try harder this week...

Thanks Matt - thankfully all work travel complete for this year - plenty more in 2020. I've had a paper accepted for a conference in Detroit, but don't know if it's me or the co-author presenting yet...

Week 50

M – I was still feeling creaky from weekend exertions during my warm-up, so reigned in on the planned bouldering/an-cap session. Worked out a suitable aero-cap circuit for another time, then did a bunch of long duration isometrics (30s +15kg half crimp; +5kg lock-offs) followed by some low-end aero-cap 5on/3off x3. Should have done some core & groin rehab, but had to do the weekly shop!

T – 2hour epic gym session i.e. getting my money’s worth on a daypass! 500kcal aerobic shizzle (2k row 7m50s, bike, X-trainer). Squats, bench, lat pull down and low row weights. Core Compex x2 Might have overdone it…

W – Got my BFR fingerboard session in before the gym DOMS got too intense. 110mmHg; 38kg shrugs; 7x 10mm micro, then 5x BM2K-AA as the pump increased. (DOMS never really came through that bad – adapting already?)

T – 2k ergo row warm-up (7m52s) before Chapel boulder triples. Doing these on 7A+ problems now. Did 90% to completion, so maybe needs some intensity tweaking via harder problems or shorter rests? 5min continuity aero-cap warm-down.

F – Rest. Core Compex.

S – Cave of justice. No ticks but a great session for psyche. Spent a lot of time trying (and failing) to fathom alternate beta on Nightlife (f7C+). Decided a tickle on The Last Stand (V12) was in order – very surprised at the leap in ability and I’m now able to pull into start position for the crux slap. Also did post-slap to finish for 1st time. Then decided a quick play on Daisy From Concrete (V12) might also be intriguing: Despite tired shoulders I could do the roll over crux and get into TC start position. All VERY encouraging.

S – Christmas decorating, mince pie baking, etc. Squats & Dls. Low weight & high rep OHP. (Might experiment with BFR to get some mass increase to get over plateaux in OHP?) 40s tendon density hangs. Half crimp +5kg. Compex core & groin rehab.

This morning my legs are singing gently to me every time I fidget

Cheers Matt, back to work last Tuesday so starting to incorporate a little gentle exercise too. Did 1/2 a km in the pool Tuesday and Wednesday. Did a full km on Thursday but was a little sore after so rested the following day. Back in the pool on Sunday for another km, managed it in around 18 minutes so not too bad at all 

Tuesday marked 2 weeks since operation, so from Wednesday I tried to ramp up the exercise a bit. No climbing yet, but thinking that some easy toproping might be on the cards when I get back after Xmas. Until then, other activities.

M: walk 1h

Tu: walk 1h

W: cycle 1h

Th: run 40 min

F: run 35 min

Sa: easy fingerboard session, time to start rehabbing the bad finger

Sun: run 45 min

Morning Matt, thanks for doing the stats.

M - Rest - shoulders, foam rolling

T - Long session at Rope Race, many routes climbed at around 6a for mileage. Arms were feeling fatigued from Sunday's coaching session so didn't climb anything near my limit. Used the feature wall.

W - ARC: 1x10 easy, 2x20 with increased intensity so basically smaller holds. Core session as part of my warm-up.

T - Auto belay at AW: did ok, but feeling tired on the 6c+ and only managed around half way up it. Still a good session, finished with some easy mileage.

F - Rest

S - Rest, shoulder work

S - Bouldering at my on-sight limit. Worked on visualizing movement patterns before leaving the ground then figuring out the difference between expected and actual after the climb. Aim is to improve my on-sight ability.

STG (Early Jan 2019): Increase shoulder mobility, use rests correctly on a route i.e. have the correct body position to maximise energy gains. Increase power endurance while maintaining endurance base.

MTG (Spain, Early Feb 2020): Costa Blanca early Feb. Redpoint Kashba @ Sella (6c+). Redpoint some 6c+/7a's at Gandia or nearby crags, and see where I get to on those.

MTG (UK, March 2020): Redpoint Rubicon 7a & Kiss Me Hardy 7a+, head point San Melas E3 5c. On-sight of Wings of Unreason E4 5c/6a/6b

LTG (Sept 2020): Redpoint Indecent Exposure 7c.

Forgive me, Its been awhile since my last confession. Work and other affairs really caught up with me over the last few weeks, interviews, illness, other commitments...

Week 18/11 -  15/12

A fair bit of training, mostly board climbing and PE style circuits. A few longer aerocap bits and bobs, and fair few pull ups.

Only thing of note is a couple of bouldering trips to Portland where I ticked Lost Decade (f7A) , V for Vendetta (f6C+) and Relativity (f7A). Really enjoyed Relativity, great problem and one I had my eye on for awhile. Need to go back for Lightning strike. Lost Decade seems to be a little eliminate or requires a slightly better description, as I watched a few dubious ascents. Great to see my GF dispatch V for vendetta quickly.

I'm off to Geyikbeyiri for 3 weeks starting next week, so this week I will just be doing a bit of bouldering / Fbing. Try not to catch any lurgy and make sure I feel fresh when I arrive.

Need to do a review of my year, and sort out some aims for next year. I will have some time to think about that over next few weeks.

Nice one, how did the running and cycling go? Dont think im going to be there until after christmas at the mo. 

l> ianstevens - Keep up the pubfit   Still loving all the yoga.  Lots of great sessions.

Cheers for the stats Matt. I'm afraid I've got no pundit reporting this week; although staying out until 4 am does feel like a training session of sorts.... good cardio right? Or maybe I'm just getting old. Who knows. The yoga is just a daily habit I built a few years back, a New Years resolution that stuck! Part of the morning routine now and helps me wake up.

If nobody has suggested a psyche vid yet - the entirety of the Real Thing is on YouTube. 

Question for the floor - I've recently added in some campus board work the past month or so but am seeing zero progress. I'm okay on the first pull, but unable to pull through - I always end up flailing about/reaching through rather than actually pulling. Anyone got any experience/tips on this?

Week 2019.50/L1.10

Monday:

1) Yoga

2) Conditioning: stabiliser conditioning, 5 x 5 pull ups @ BW

3) Bike: 8.2km

Tuesday:

1) Valley. Warm up (<6B) including 9 x 10 secs varied BM2k holds. Campus 123, 134, 144 x 2. Limit boulders (6C-7A).

3) B: 11.1km.

Weds: 

1) Yoga

2) Lattice Varied Grips. Half crimp @ +20kg, Front 3 1/2 crimp @ BW, Back 3 1/2 crimp @ - 5kg; Front 3 drag @ BW. (12 x 7 sec hangs in total)

3) Valley. Easy warm up (<6A); Boulder Triples 6B-C. 

4) Conditioning. 4x5, 1x4 pul ups @ BW. Crimpd Compression.

5) Bike 11.1km

Thurs: 

1) Yoga

2) Conditioning. Crimpd static holds and extended core.

Friday:

Much needed rest.

Saturday:

1) Found a gap in the weather to try King of Drunks (V6). Couldn't master the sit, so tried what I thought was some alternative beta (without reading the book) and came up with King of the Drunk Direct sds (f7A). Couldn't do the finish and got snaked to the FA by my friend. 

2) Beacon birthday comp. Climbed well, managed 8th and got 272/350. Beat aforementioned friend by 10 points. That'll teach him.

Sunday:

Knackered. Went a did a single 5 at Ideal crag on the way home.

Aye, and in the snow this week it was fab!!

M - Nowt

T - 1hr 45 doing routes indoors. Tried to take it easy as knew I'd be back the nest day. Found a slabby 6c+ to work on - don't think I'm going to do a 7a by NYE...

W - 2 hrs of routes - my elbows ached from the word go. By the time I tried to get to sleep I was in agony!

T - nowt - works drinks do

F - 16k (570m), 1hr50 - up Bleaberry fell and to Ashness - felt tougher than it should

S - nowt

S - Skiddaw in the snow (well, to Jenkin Hill gate then along the fence-line to Lonscale. Great fun (13k, 730m, 1hr50) but hard going.

All went totally fine! I have a little bit of soreness in my bellybutton but it's very superficial, I think the supposedly dissolvable stitches are irritating me (I've taken out all the ones I could see). I have no pain or even weird sensations other than that top 1cm, so am pretty happy that the running and cycling so far is well within what I can manage. 

How's it going with you? I guess yours was a much bigger operation than mine, it seems like my (4) incisions were all really small.

Hi Matt 

Thanks for looking after fit club again its much appreciated.

I'm sort of better.....

Wed: started to feel better, had the day off and managed to make time for the wall. Climbed surprisingly well given I'd been feeling Ill for a few days. Climbed 2 x v4 , 2 x v5 and worked a v6.

Fri: felt the lurgy try and make a resurgence but still wanted to climb, decided to still go to the wall but took it super easy only going up to v3.

Sun: considered fingerboarding but thought better of it having spent Saturday on pain killers. Ended up taking the kids to the wall anyway and climbed 3 or 4 easy problems while "parenting"!

Fab, glad its all going well

Due to previous surgery and a large amount of existing scar tissue it was safer to do the hernia repair as open surgery rather than keyhole hence a larger wound site. Its all healed now so able to go for a swim. Just needs the inflammation to go down at the wound site and i will be good to go. Hoping to get out for the first run after Christmas.   

Thanks for stat-ting Matt. Nothing much to report from last week and will be same this one, so as I've no current goals and not on a training plan I'm taking a Fitclub break for Xmas.

Merry Xmas, happy New Year and I'll catch y'all in January, probably with a training plan, hopefully with some targets and maybe with some psyche.

And remember, drink responsibly.

Potential psyche video...

youtube.com/watch?v=bh-aOS3dBU8&

It's old, but still a good bit of inspiration for getting set up for winter!