/ UKC Fitclub 534

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guy127917 - on 11 Jun 2017
Back later than expected and wiped from a 'work trip' to Corsica so will get the stats up tomorrow. This placeholder will have to do for now....
Ally Smith on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

Comeback is starting to happen - managed one of my hoped for links on Saturday - just need the seepage to hold back so i can keep working the other section...

Week 24
M - Grim weather – Trained at home instead of heading out into the peak. Rehab deadhangs; 4x10s @BW+18kg on BM2K-AA slot. 4x10s @BW+5kg on 35degree slopers. 4x10s on slot with RH only @BW-8kg. Lots of heart pumping and sweaty barbell complexes in between. Then 3x reverse fly & I’s on the rings (shoulders felt too boxed for the pull-ups). 10min core routine.
T - Work day trip to London – nowt but a bit of urban walking
W - More grim weather - Rehab deadhangs; 4x10s @BW+23kg on BM2K-AA slot. 4x10s @BW+8kg on 35degree slopers. 4x10s on slot with RH only @BW-7.5kg. Barbell complexes & 50x 5kg weighted sit-ups.
T - Bunch of static & dynamic core (v-sit, side plank & 240 crunchies), rings & pull-ups. Stretched pecs, neck, shoulder and bum with hope of new kneebar beta working on Saturday…
F - Rest; 25km ride after work
S - Kilnsey; worked the last section of Freakshow (8c)/project. Tie-in #1 – bolt to bolt, tried new crux#2 beta from Barrows with promising outcome. Tie-in #2 – dogged to break shake-out before crux#2, then linked all this through to big hold on lip (top-out was wet). Tie-in #3 – tied doing a bigger link from first big hold on Freakshow, but conditions had crapped out and I took the ride from crux#2 with the bolt skipped. Tie-in #4 – stripped it. Fingers crossed the seepage isn’t too bad by next weekend
S - Given how wet Saturday was, decided the wall (!?!) was the best bet – most volume I’ve done in months – all the Depot reds (V3-5) bar 2 where there was a tweaky crimp and 3-finger LH pocket. Rest, then 2x 8min aero-cap (f6c), 3x10 wide pull-ups and play on the rings/dips bars.
hms - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

thanks Guy. I had a busy week then a weekend on rock.

M - cycle commute. Yoga.
T - cycle commute. FB, 7/3/6/3 x 10 on various different grips. Then played around with 1 arm hangs but without feeling I was making much progress. Shoulder kept collapsing - not good. Did propel me towards doing some much needed rehab though.
W - cycle commute. UCR 5 circuits to warm up. FoC to failure with 1/2 rest time, twice with 15 min rest plus cup of tea between. 1 min on 1 min off on 6c circuit x 10.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes, in pairs. Made considerable progress on 2 different 7bs, despite distinctly humid conditions.
F - 2 miles urban walking. Drove to Portland.
S - Coastguard, but way too greasy - the stiff breeze had blown spray onto the wall rather than dried it. Cuttings - 6c OS, huge whipper from final move of a 7a/+ and no time to have another go.
S - Battleship. 6b OS (given 6c in CC guide and I wouldn't argue), 6c 2nd go (again given 6c+ in CC guide which again would seem fair), 7a OS, 6c OS. Would have liked to get on something harder but prime candidates had teams in situ, plus husband had given up by about lunchtime so I was climbing pretty much back to back.

Had really wanted to do Bouys will be Bouys (classic top50 6b+) as its been on my to-do list for years and years. However it had the same couple on it from mid morning until when we left late afternoon. They had ended up TRing through the anchors, so I couldn't even lead whilst they were sitting in the sunshine, cos of their bloody rope. Grr!
AJM - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to hms:

That's a shame about Buoys. Great route. Keen to get back down there some point.

I don't know I actually did anything this week. I managed a few solitary pullups but that's about it. Tiring week followed by a busy weekend.

Hopefully out tomorrow and maybe a day at the weekend too...
Dandan82 - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to AJM:

Would the weekend day out be Saturday?
Dandan82 - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy,

A medium intensity week that started off with a recurrence of my classic elbow overuse pain, I was pleased to be able to manage that whilst still completing all (but one) sessions on the plan.

M: Indoor Boulder; 7 reps with 2.5 min rests of hard problem, 3 sets. Had to abandon this after set 1 due to the elbow flaring up. I blame the Lattice assessment on Friday!

T: Rest

W: Indoor Boulder; 7 move problem, 3 reps with 18 secs rest, 3 sets. I kept the difficulty a little lower than usual due to the elbow but still completed the session.

T: Indoor Boulder; 2 on 1 off did this on a long roof boulder as had no partner for roped climbing. I used a V5 and doubled back along it, seemed about the right level

F: Nothing, drove to Morthoe in Devon for our annual weekend of eating. It's ostensibly a surfing holiday but no surfing has occurred for several years. Some beer was consumed.

S; More eating, highlights include cream tea, pasty and takeaway curry. Cheese and biscuits before bed.

S: Indoor Boulder; we drove back from the West country and I managed to drag my considerably enhanced carcass to the wall. Did rings and bar workout as well as Linked Boulder session, 12 move problem, 4 reps with 2.5 min rest, 3 sets. Used a roof route again, I feel I may be unconsciously specialising!

No outdoor action, although things are looking good for this coming Saturday.

I start my new job next monday which will cause some degree of disruption while I find a new routine, luckily I have couple of not *too* intense weeks so I'll try to stick to the plan.

New STG:
* Stretch hamstrings and/or hips every session -
* Try and actually rest on this rest week -

MTG: (next few months)
* Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Finger improving
* Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c)
* Illusions (7c) - Getting close
* Detonator (7c)
* Prison Sex (7c+)
* Nightmare Scenario (7c)
* The Breathing Method (8a)

LTG: (This Year)
* 3 Holidays - 2 done and 2 more booked!
* Niña Mala (8b) in October
* tick 3 x 8a - 2/3
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ (to round out my logbook) - 1/10
* Remain uninjured, don't return to cocky idiot mode
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) - +54kg so far
* Visit Kilnsey (never been)
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last

* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1 of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year
AJM - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

I haven't thought that far ahead yet in the details! I can let you know, although it's likely to be a family day out so may not involve any terribly adventurous crags!
alx on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy, back from South Africa, which was a resounding failure with me partially tearing my A2 pulley straight away.

New short term goal is to heal the finger, medium term goal get fitness back to current level, long term goal over the next 12 months is to resume my aim to tick off an 8B boulder albeit it's going to have to be something closer to home in the U.K!
biscuit - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

Finally feel i'm getting back into indoor bouldering. Sadly that's been due to the crap weather. Ended up at The Depot 3 times this week for fun and once for work. Done as many of the SBL problems that I think i'll do. 221 is score for first round. Had a really good workout on Sunday taking the kids round a strength session in the morning and str end in the afternoon. I was pooped.

Could have had a final go tomorrow but had a flare up of some sort of nerve problem in my arms. It's hit me today as well. It's an old problem I've not had for a long while. Kind of forgot about it. It seems to be linked to either fatigue (climbing and in general), high impact moves, and/or a poor warm up. Whilst i'm going to get to the bottom of it (I hope) I think I can help myself by having the discipline to warm up properly like i'm always nagging the kids about. Definitely didn't do that today and really regretted it quite quickly. It goes quickly and i'm feeling fine now but it can flare up again quickly so i'm having tomorrow off.
guy127917 - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday (or evidently Monday if I’m being slack) for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:

Last week’s thread can be found here:

hms: Did you get any inspiration/advice from the lattice guys on your current goals?
AllySmith: Nice video- loving the HD footage.
Allan Little: Really interested to see how you get on with The Plan. Have you done a lactate curve test before?
guy127917: Breathe
ian stevens: Great work, looks like having a new plan is working well so far
AJM: Thanks for that info, will try and test it out. Interesting feedback from the lattice test- does it imply you are doing just enough to keep the fitness level up?
Dandan: Sounds like things are going really well, congrats on the job as well. Were you expecting your hang to be increased given you’re in a strength phase (I don’t know when your last test was)?
ad111: So what did you conclude about adding pull-ups to your training?
the sheep: Nice work! So will you adjust the run goal up, or switch focus to cycling a bit more?
Just Tintin: I’m going to try the challenge. Sasha is surprisingly rubbish! ad111 maybe that answers your pullup question!?
TheFasting: Not sure if I recommended the Rock Warriors Way to you before but it discusses some of the issues you talked about (approaching success/failure, fear of falling etc)
Richard Popp: Look forward to seeing you back and ready to go
mattrm: You’d better get a strong last 2 months of training in to carry you through the next few!
biscuit: Good to hear you’re getting out and enjoying it
leeboy: Awesome, bodes well for the alps, as does the amount of ascent you are getting in weekly.
annak: Ill be very interested to follow how this challenge goes. Are you planning on using any specific yoga resource?

guy127917 - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to alx:

Shit mate, sorry to hear that. Wishing you all the best for a speedy recovery.
AlanLittle - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> Allan Little: Really interested to see how you get on with The Plan. Have you done a lactate curve test before?

Thanks Guy

Is that the lattice thing? Not formally, they turned me down for an assessment for being too far off the bottom of the scale. Ha! I'll show 'em!

But if you mean the max moves / wait 20 minutes / 75% of max / etc thing, then I've tried it feet on on a campus board. So the absolute numbers aren't lattice comparable but I suppose the shape of the curve should be. Which was:
62 46 52 41 26 24 26

(The link to "last week" is actually this week btw)
Post edited at 22:50
AlanLittle - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

STG: ?
MTG (2017): Redpoint a 7b that isn't a 6-move boulder problem.
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Wall, Boulderwelt. An hour on the moonboard for token strength maintenance, then Kaly Aerobic Capacity Session #1: fifteen (mostly) easy circuits. One sneaky harder one early on to relieve the boredom, that turned into my first 6c+ onsight. Excellent.
T: rest
W: Wall, Boulderwelt. Kaly aerocap session #2: 22 circuits 5b to 6b. Encouraging that I was able to keep going on 6b's at the very end of the session, albeit soft ones that I have totally dialed.
T: Bike one hour
Shoulder mobility & presses
A few fingerboard sets for maintenance & pre weekend recruitment. I can hang a small campus rung at bodyweight 18% longer than I could last year, hurrah.
F: rest
S: Frankenjura, Freudenhaus. In which it is clearly brought home to me that I have been spending too much time projecting bouldery routes. On typical Frankenjura straightforward but steep power endurance pocket pulling, I'm outta gas after seven or eight metres even if the moves individually are trivial. Part of this is adapting to the local style - first time in the 'jura this year - and part of it is endurance, which I'm already training. So, good. Onsighted a 6b and redpointed a 6b+ in a couple of goes, so could be worse.
S: Frankenjura, Leupoldsteiner Wand. Had a look at a 7a project from last year but it was humid & greasy. So did more onsight mileage up to 6b.
Felt like I hadn't done enough mileage though, so finished the day off with ten rounds of aerobic capacity circuits at Boulderwelt in the evening. (Kaly aerocap session #3)
ianstevens - on 12 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> ian stevens: Great work, looks like having a new plan is working well so far

It's only two weeks in, lets not to get too excited yet!

Last week:

Yoga (20 mins)
TRX (before work to avoid paying...; I do 2 hours of Kids climbing on a Monday) Reverse fly, Wings, Single Arm Rows 12 x 4
Little cycle into town (4.5km)
Fingerboard - App 5A 4x1, 6b 2 x 2

Yoga 30 mins
Run Z2/3, 8.1km

Weather was shite so went to spin instead of the TT. Nearly chundered, good hard session revisiting >500W for the first time in a while.

Resty Mcrestface - aside from staying up to 4 am for election "fun" and eating loads of crap

Run 10.2km at Coed-y-Brenin
Bouldering at RAC <V2 (8 problems?)
Drove past the Cromlech and was psyched for Johnny's Wall (V6)so had a "look" - went second go. Chuffed as I cut this off my STG list a while back as it had been there for too long.

Went 2/3 of the way up Snowdon with a very wet/beleaguered/slow group

Tried to go outside, didn't work - too windy. Ate cake and went indoors.
Beacon - routes to 6c, boulders to 6B+ (all flash). Worked some of a 7a+ and had many goes at a 7A boulder.
Slept quite shit on Thurs (election), Friday and Saturday (camping in the rain) so wasn't really feeling this one. Followed up with an early night.

Stuck to week 2 of the plan. Now on v3 as I book in more freelance work.

Weight at 69.7kg (higher late in the week, see Thurs).

STG (end of June):
Get all moves on Beltane (7b+) dialed and into the beta notes on my phone - might be tricky, all my partners who like to dangle on a single bolt all day are away
Get 10MTT down to 27:00 - close but no cigar (yet)
Get "Gold" standard (<4:15) for Cycle Fest Sportive (100 km) - tick
Stick to the plan each week - 2/5

MTG (end of July):
Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
Have a big alpine prep day out and climb 1000m of VS with a few E1 pitches thrown in

LTG (end of Sept):
Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Do each and every session on the plan - 2/16
Dandan82 - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:
> 62 46 52 41 26 24 26

The higher score on the third rep indicates a well developed aerobic base meaning you are in a good place from which to peak to a much higher max moves score if you had a specific route or holiday to aim for.
(Don't ask me HOW to peak, you'll have to leave that to the experts!)

EDIT: I just read your post from last week, the 20 min Lattice Aero sessions are very easy and really do feel like they aren't doing anything but I would recommend them thoroughly from my own anecdotal experience. I did them once or twice a week for 5 months (admittedly along with a lot of other training) and doubled my lattice scores, I'm pretty sure the science behind capillarisation is pretty solid.
Post edited at 07:38
AJM - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to Dandan82 and AlanLittle:

So decent aerobics and (unsurprisingly) fairly high ancap (26/62 is what, just over 40%). Bit of aerobic/aeropow to dilute that ancap a bit and the scores will soar!
guy127917 - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Had a really bleh week last week

Monday: Max hangs- couldn't get near to maxes but still put in the whole session. 4x 8on /8off
Tuesday: rest
Wednesday: Castle was even more ridiculously busy than normal. 45 minutes max bouldering on the wave, 4x 8 on 8 off aero cap on outdoor boulders.
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Wakeboarding, lounging and drinking
Sunday: Waterskiing, sleeping
TheFasting on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Yeah I can't afford it right now but I've read the first chapter on Google books. But I think just doing some fall training would be best for me.

Training-wise I had a great week.

M - Did my second multipitch trad route (Lyneggen at Størenhammeren), and this time I could second the n5 (F5b) pitch without incident (couldn't do that last F5b trad route we did). 5 pitches, although pretty short. Lead the easiest one of them, graded n3. There was one other pitch I wanted to lead but I didn't. It was an easy grade, but it was steep and I chickened out.

Tu - Off. Took to long to get around to cardio.

W - Strength and indoor bouldering. Worked on problems in the cave. Found one where I can do the whole roof, but I couldn't do the whole thing. It's about 15 moves long, f5+, so it gives me some confidence that I can do an equivalent climbing route some time.

Squat: 75 kg, deadlift 75 kg. Both 3 sets of 10.
Weighted pull-ups: 1 set of 2, with 27.5 kg added. New PR.

Th - 3 hour stair climb. Did 1787 meters of elevation gain. New PR.

Su - 2 hour indoor bouldering session. Worked on a blue problem (f6a-f6c) I found. Can do the whole thing except this one move that I only sometimes can do, so haven't managed to link it all up. So close to sending a real f6a now.

Weighted pull-ups (following Training for the New Alpinisms pull-up program): 3 sets of 1 with 31.25 kg. New PR.
Post edited at 11:56
annak on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers, week 1 yoga challenge has gone well! I take a couple of classes locally, and I like the videos on (all free). Otherwise it's just home practice on whatever I feel like. Haven't set myself a minimum length session, but this week it was from 25mins to 1:30.

M: Climb at Hvasser - really wasn't feeling it. High winds, cold, and I felt super shy struggling on low grades in front of other people. Just couldn't get into it at all. Yoga home practice.
Tu: Bouldering in Østmarka, rain on and off but got up a couple of easier problems and tried a few more. Cycle commute and yoga home practice.
W: Indoor bouldering, feeling good. Yoga home practice
Th: Indoor bouldering, 1h comp, my competetive nature got me up way more problems than I normally would have managed Cycle commute and yoga home practice.
F: Cycle commute, yoga class
Sa: Yoga video at home
Su: Yoga home practice
AlanLittle - on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

There’s a shorter/cheaper version called Espresso Lessons that I found worthwhile. It’s nto just about falling practice – lots of useful tips on route reading, pacing, tactics generally. (Haven’t read the bigger book)
TheFasting on 13 Jun 2017
In reply to TheFasting:
Forgot that on monday I also lead another single pitch route graded n4, Grismattjuven (Single Pitch) (n4), which is a new trad PR, and the same grade as the pitch I chickened out from. So I felt vindicated by that.

Alan: It's not that I think the book is all about fall practice, but I think that's what will help me the most. In the near future I should be able to afford buying the book, however
Post edited at 13:21
the sheep - on 14 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Nice work! So will you adjust the run goal up, or switch focus to cycling a bit more?

Cheers, the plan is to up the run distance as im on target to hit my cycle goal anyway Bit more of a balanced week last week which went as follows;

Monday, 1 km swim

Tuesday, 1 km swim and 27 km cycle

Wednesday, 1 km swim and an evenings open water diving

Thursday, 1 km swim

Friday, 1 km swim and 40 km cycle

Saturday, 10 km run

Sunday, rest

Just Tintin - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy - let me know how you get on. I was pleasantly surprised how the 'rest' of a 2.5 second hang between pull-ups increased my max to 7. Still much work to be done, but suspect the limiting factor is my weight rather than my power. Need to set some new STGs.

M - FIngerboard
T - Circuit board 1 on2 off
W -rest
T - lead Brookes
F - got to Great Crack (HVS 5a) at dusk in wet slippy mossy awful conditions. But I was bored of walking up to this out-of-condition route and not climbing it so did it anyway. Unpleasant and slow going - but I'm sure it would definitely be Top 50 if dry!
S - rain so bouldered at Climbing Unit
S - routes at Curbar in between rainstorms. Joe Brown is a genius. Then it rained proper so we stopped.

Goals check-in:

STG: (end of May)
• Keep knocking out crack/slab mileage in Peak - great month and some classics along the way
• Classic routes in Squamish/ ski touring depending on weather - got up the Chief and some starred routes at Smoke Bluffs, so not bad for 36 hours in Squamish!!!

MTG: (end of 2017)
• Do more routes than any other year (Best was 2014: 112 trad, 72 sport) – so far 2017: 53 trad, 16 sport. Going really well in terms of days on rock - 21 days in April/May. But short sessions between weather windows or long multipitch means route count is down.
• Sport: 7a mileage including unfinished business (WFD, Buf). RP a 7b.
• Trad: E mileage. Lead E3/4 - continuing to knock out E1s/E2s on grit + led first E3
• Lose some weight. Maybe 3kg would be a start? - not started
• Fundas 3 (check), PTforClimbing2 courses, CWLA, DevCoach assessments. Renew First Aid - a little light on time for this at the moment
• Ticklist: Skeleton Ridge (HVS 4c) and some other stuff. The Scottish sea stacks will have to wait until next year as I haven't enough annual leave left!
Climbthatpitch - on 17 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks guy

Not a lot to report for me this week. A few short runs and 1 max strength session

Only have next week to train and then I'm gonna have a week tapper before going to the alps. 2 weeks and counting ????
mattrm - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to guy127917:

The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)

Weight - 13st 8lbs

M - S - Nowt

Again a wodge of gardening, playing computer games and DIY tasks which meant I couldn't quite be arsed to get down the wall.

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