UKC

UKC FitClub Week 886

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Tyler 10 Mar 2024

Sorry I had to buck the recent trend and post this one late.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fit club is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week’s thread:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/ukc_fit_club_week_885-7687...

Derek Furze - Delighted to see that Llangollen and the Orme are your main areas of focus for this year! I wouldn’t worry about being behind schedule with your outdoor climbing aside from your illness you’ve also had contend with a very wet beginning of the year, we must be due some dry weather soon….

Ross Baker - Lots of sustained effort on the Moonbard, is it yours or do you visit a wall for it? Bala Boulders is a bit of left field venue, is it good? What’s the parking, walk in, landing situation? Is there a reason to visit in preference to other areas west? Somewhere around there is a long traverse that looks interesting.

Ian Parnell - I’d say it’s a cracking week of training when you make progress in all areas. Also good that from a climbing PoV you are concentrating on weaknesses rather than just doing stuff you enjoy more.

mattrm - Back to two runs this week which is great to see. You’ve mentioned an awful diet a few weeks running, is this something that you want to address or just an observation?

the sheep - Hope the kids enjoyed the gala, could you not persuade them into comp climbing instead?! 1600meters swim seems a pretty good return to form for an illness affected week and the run sounds very enjoyable.

AJM - I guess you can brand that a deload week, you must have been champing at the bit for your big birthday session this week.

Tigh - I don’t recall you mentioning the uni stuff before, does it mean going on to a campus or is it all online? I’m thinking there maybe facilities and societies you could leverage for training.

SSB - Another 7B therefore matching your 12 month PB again, shame your connie’s radar was off on Sunday, soon be time for Tor bouldering anyway won’t it?

Steve Claw - I know I keep banging on about it but I think aero-cap training is intended to address the problem you describe (running out of gas at a set point), I need to do it myself but I don’t have the patience at the wall nor the facilities at home.

SteveJC94 - Lots of time in the saddle this week, are you building up to an event imminently?

Ally Smith - Ally vs Moonboard 7C+ no problem, Ally vs headstrong toddler; different story! What were the new holds for, are you building a different board?

Alan Little - You’re going to need more holidays aren’t you? You can’t turn down the opportunity for Parois de Legend and Im Extremen Fels ticks.

Biscuit - It seems to me you lose a lot of time with low level illness, is that impression incorrect?

Randy - Seems like you’ve returned from your hiatus having not lost a lot of strength, must be very gratifying to see that what your doing has potential to have long term benefits

Tom Green - Looking forward to your update this week

OP Tyler 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Anyone interested in a FC meet up in North Wales on one of the first two weekends of April?

In reply to Tyler:

Potentially yes. I need to sort out with Mrs Swede what we are doing as she keeps dropping hints about going somewhere with sun and heat but if I agree to that I reckon I can wangle at least a day away if not a weekend.

OP Tyler 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Bit of a poor training week but I at least got on the board with a tick.

M-T: Planned rest (although that's no reason not to do pre-hab or yoga)

W: Quick warm up at home then loaded the van with mats to go to the Pass only to find the battery totally flat. Then spent some time tessellating three large mats into a two door car with no hatchback. Finally got to the Pass and set about Cross Fader (V5) I thought it might go down first go of the day but it took a full session and my skin went through on my final, successful, go. I'd feel ok about the multiple sessions it took to get to this point if the grade in the guide was correct but I suspect the UKC grade is the correct one.

Sun: Rubbish session in the annex but elbow didn't feel too bad despite doing some log chopping yesterday

OP Tyler 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Bring Mrs Swede and family, I'm certian it'll be warm and sunny here by then.....

In reply to Tyler:

Cheers Tyler. I don't think there is much left for me to boulder at the Tor. I feel like I've done all the stuff I can do and the rest is just too hard. There are plenty of other limestone venues to visit that I'm psyched for and I'm tempted to get the shunt out for a routes play too. Quite a lot of sessions this week. I've noticed that my recovery between sessions has improved (presumably due to all the aero work I've done?) and I've done 4 sessions again this week without dropping the quality.

Mon. Headed out to Curbar, managed Bad Lip (f7A) quickly and nearly got Late Junction but the rain came in early and I only got about 45mins in the end. 3rd day on so probably good to keep it short.

Tues. 10km run.

Wed. Mostly rest, rode my bike into town in the eve 6km round trip.

Thurs. Back to Curbar for Late Junction (f7B) and also Late Junction Left-hand (f7A+).

Fri. Curbar again. A bit of a project shopping session. Decided that Drop Your Weapons probably wasn't going to be a winner so had a play on Huffy Roof. Did all the moves to the bad lip jug in two sections (it's only 5 moves to there). Keen to come back to this although probably not soon looking at the forecast. Also managed Bad Lip again but with the left heel beta instead (I used the right toe method on Monday).

Sat. Foundry routes session in the morning although the weather turned out better than forecast so probably could have gone outside. Didn't go wild. 7 leads up to 6c+ and toproped a 7a+ and 7b first go. Took the kids up Crowden Clough (Summer) (Grade-1) in the afternoon and went for a bimble along the plateau edge to Grindslow Knoll. Lots of smiles all round.

Sun. Mostly rest. Gave my daughter a spot at the works this morning but didn't climb myself. It was her first time in the big works rather than just the mini works and she was very pleased with herself. Short kiddy splash about at Barnsley Metrodome in the afternoon, a great place to go if you want to feel underweight and under tattooed!

Looks like we are in for some warm and wet weather for the next 10 days. Hopefully it will sort itself out for Easter.

 Ian Parnell 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks Ash for the encouraging words. Despite being some way behind where I was this time last year, I feel like just started to get a bit of momentum. The first creaking turn of rolling that boulder up a mighty big hill!

I’d hopefully be able to get together for one of the days of a meet up.

Mon – Nothing

Tues – Finger block. Warm Up: finger block lifts 20mm edge 10 secs 5kg, 10, 15, 20. 20mm 20 secs 2 finger drag (front 2 then middle 2) 10kg, 12kg, 13kg x 2. Lattice wide pinch 10secs 10kg, 11kg x3 sets (left weaker this time middle set 6 secs than right 10secs). Lattice heavy rollers wrist flexion lifts 10secs 15kg, 17kg x 3.

Wed – Brilliant day in the sun at Gogarth main cliff (see pics below including Zippy’s plastic bag chalk bag!) Main Wall (E2 5b). 3 pitches starting up Big Groove and finishing up Dinosaur. Very high quality and about the right level of challenge for me at the moment. I found the final 5c pitch of Dinosaur pretty challenging as it was pretty green and hairy and I didn’t really know where to go. Downclimbed 20 foot at one point for a rethink having lost faith in my gear, managed to re-psych and uncover a few more bits. Probably spent an hour or more on that pitch so nice to see some stamina but head still needs a lot of fine tuning.

Thursday – Nothing

Fri – Finger block. Warm Up: finger block lifts 20mm edge 10 secs 5kg, 10, 15, 20. 20mm 20 secs 2 finger drag (front 2 then middle 2) 10kg, 13kg x 3. Lattice wide pinch 10secs 11kg x3 sets (left all 5secs right 10secs). Lattice heavy rollers wrist flexion lifts 10secs 17kg x 3.

Sat – 3 mile run including 6 x 100m strides. Hamstring and side achy a little after.

Sunday – 25mins run, 3ish miles. Awesome Walls Kilter Board. Tried 14 problems. Got up 11 including 3 x 6a+ and a 6b at 30 degrees and a 6a+ at 50 degrees. First 6b, good session.

Reflection - Last week’s big run took a while to get over so treated this week as a bit of a de-load. Last time I had a day out to North Wales I didn’t have the weather gods on my side but this week they were on my team with a perfect day at Gogarth coinciding with my day off work. Found the last pitch of Main Wall a bit of a battle. Whilst my head got quite negative, I was pleased that physically I held up pretty well. Felt like a little step forward.

Post edited at 21:55

In reply to Tyler:

She's not a fan of Wales, it rains literally every time she goes. Which is weird as she is the bringer of sunshine in the lakes!

 Derek Furze 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Thanks for the excellent stats Tyler and no worries about them being 20 minutes late!  Week two of a three week intensive work spell, but managed to keep something going.  Still not firing on all cylinders, but generally better each week.

Sun - a day of garden project work building a fence where I have removed a hedge.  This went well, but was more physical than expected so my evening training felt miserable.  Started a session trying 3 different grips on the fingerboard as a max hang session, but didn't get far.  Same with BW pull ups, which all felt harder than they should, so sacked the session of after three cycles.

Mon - really busy, but 10 mins on the exercise bike for 5km and some stretching and core in the evening.

Tues - work, but managed 6 sets each hand of block lift repeaters at 21.6kg on 20mm.  That was it!

Wed - Thurs away with work, but did 90 mins at Awesome Walls in Stoke bouldering.  First climbing movement for a while with illness, so just did around 35 problems up to V4/5 according to the charts.  Pulled onto the Moonboard for the first time ever and did a couple of moves of the problem lit up by the previous wad.  I assume it was benchmark 8A.

Friday - out to Egerton for some exploring.  Climbed a few things on new sectors encountering loose rock, slime, vegetation and stuff.  Really enjoyed it, though nothing difficult.  Am starting to like the place after my fourth visit ever - once back in the early eighties to do the classics on Wood Buttress, then one evening visit in 2009, but two in the last three years.  We've decided to go again and target some harder things with stars.  Great placing gear again after a while not getting out.

Saturday - didn't do any proper training, but did shift about 100 large rocks up the garden and then built a wall.  Surprisingly physical.  Did do ten mins on the bike for 5 km.

Tyler - interesting interpretation of my comments about trad focus, but yes, I really like Llangollen and the Ormes, so projecting is still on my plan.  Quite keen to see what can be done with real application.

April weekends possible and I would be interested.

Should also say that I managed some training today (Sun) despite some very hard partying last night.  Quite pleased as a busy week coming up.

Post edited at 22:05
 Ian Parnell 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Derek Furze:

Congrats on half a moonboard 8A - is that 4A? I liked Egerton too, The Disappearing Chip Buttie Traverse (E1 5b) is recommended

 Derek Furze 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Ian Parnell:

Climbing at that angle takes some serious application!  I went on it last thing having done some laps on the circuit board, so not really fresh, but hats off to anyone using this particular form of humiliation regularly!

I've done the chip buttie thing.  Strange place, but some routes are really good.  It needs traffic.

 Derek Furze 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Ian Parnell:

Good effort on Main Wall btw.  I had seen that weather out there was excellent!

 Steve Claw 10 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

>  I know I keep banging on about it but I think aero-cap training is intended to address the problem you describe (running out of gas at a set point)

You probably are right, and it comes under what I think of as "climbing fitness" which it can be hard to find the time to do.

M - Route cleaning and core work

T - 4 x 20 Press ups

W - New routes 6b and 7b

T - New Route 7b+

F - Had a play in Avon, Cleaned and shunted an E4, then had a fun Avon experience on The Pusher (E2 5b), where in style typical for the area, nothing was all that hard, but the runouts above the gear were notable.

S - 4 x 20 Press ups

S - 4 x 20 Press ups

 AlanLittle 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

> You can’t turn down the opportunity for Parois de Legend and Im Extremen Fels ticks.

Quite. And I've barely even started to consider possibilities from Moderne Zeiten, which my son gave me for Christmas.

STG: Kilterboard 5C @ 45°
STG: Thalkirchen 5.9 "easy" crack
MTG: Rough Bounds Scottish backpacking trip in May
MTG. DAV Lofoten meet in July
MTG: Im Extremen Fels ticks in August
LTG: Be a confident, well rounded low to mid 7's sport climber. For measurable definition see Fit Club 823
LTG: Winter '25 - do an actual off piste ski tour.

M:     Planned rest day

T:    Wall, Thalkirchen. Routes 5c 6a 6b 6a+ 5.9 (attempt) 6a+. A short and very modest session but with one highlight: the 6b was on a section of wall that overhangs about five metres in twenty. I don't spend much time on that wall because I find it intimidating. Found the climbing very easy but still pumpy and mentally challenging. Something I definitely must do more of.
    Bike there & back.

W:  Scotland trip ten weeks away now, did a benchmark test for my cardio fitness in the form of the TfNA box step-up test. My biggest concern was my chest symptoms that were still lingering from the autumn until quite recently. These have proven to be ok with long steady efforts, such as a couple of hours on the bike, but I was concerned that a short intense effort might still poleaxe me. It didn't, so that's the main concern out of the way. My time was 32 minutes, but that's at bodyweight and the test is supposed to be done with a ~15kg pack. Will try that next week.

T:    Bike 2 hours - office & back for a colleague's leaving do

F:    Pull-ups, shoulders, 20mm edge block pick-ups

S:    Since hill fitness is going to be at least as relevant as cranking ability for the next six months:. hillwalk & (nearly) summit bivy, Hohe Kisten. In-between season conditions in the Alpine foothills are weird: I cycled to the station at nearly 20° in a teeshirt, and a few hours later was turning back a hundred metres short of the summit in the face of gusts I could barely stand up in and thigh deep snow.

S:    Descent from Hohe Kisten. The wind having dropped a bit, I opted for up & over the summit and down the other side. Big mistake: this turned out to involve several more hours of extremely strenuous deep snow. Arrived home late afternoon and pretty wrecked. Even without snow I find steep alpine descents just as strenuous as going uphill, and hardly any faster. Like most things this is largely just a matter of practice & mileage, but I'm thinking some systematic work on knee stabilisers probably won't do any harm either. Back to the Bulgarian Split Squats.

Post edited at 07:58
 Ross Barker 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Good morning everyone, glad to see some people making the most of the sunny spell that's already been and gone! I enjoyed it via my office window, I'm sure that's the same full experience as being outside...

> Ross Baker - Lots of sustained effort on the Moonbard, is it yours or do you visit a wall for it?

It's not mine, I visit the local wall. It's great for having loads of padding for trying huge moves in safety (a lot of home walls are just a small stack of outdoor mats) but it's quite a small centre so a lot of people tend to hang out in and around the landing zone. More or less every session I have to ask someone to get out of the way!

> Bala Boulders is a bit of left field venue, is it good? What’s the parking, walk in, landing situation?

It's a nice little spot, yeah. Not particularly extensive but a nice inoffensive place to spend a few hours. Parking is off the main Bala-Dolgellau road, being careful not to block the track. I can send a pin if you want. Walk-in is about 15 minutes, with a short steep section, total ascent probably some 100m. Definitely bring wellies or boots this time of year, but in summer you might get away without. 

> Is there a reason to visit in preference to other areas west? Somewhere around there is a long traverse that looks interesting.

As a venue, not really. It's closer for us than most other places, which is convenient. I think the 8A there is considered good enough to go just for that, but that only really applies to a small audience! The long traverse in question might be The Super Collider (8b+)? It's a bit further north, just west of Llyn Tryweryn. In the guide, while Bala isn't for some reason.

Obscure Mid-North Wales bouldering aside... I've had a slightly deflating week. Still two board sessions which is good on paper, but I was ill in between them and got bugger all done from a climbing/training/rehab PoV. I'm tempted to speak to a physio about this pesky lingering injury but with the wedding coming up soon I'm being quite tight.

Last Week:

Avg weight 78.2kg

M - Rest.

T - A bit tired and run down. Moonboard! Put some time into "Carogna" but holding the swing on the last move might take some beans. The middle section standing on the start hold is also a bit tenuous and droppable. Then two quick softies, "5 Finger Discount" and "Cwank". Next almost flashed "North Dakota" but greased off the finish hold! Fatigue set in and I couldn't get there again. Only an hour on the board but was pretty beat by the end.

W, T, F, S - Turns out I was getting ill! Rest...

S - Feeling more or less back to normal, so Moonboard, obviously. Three benchmarks, "Crema." being the hardest. Good practice though, learning to really sit on a high foot as you stab for a slopey pock thing. Fatigue set in hard at the end again, though the session did proceed a touch too long, at 1h30 post-warmup. 

Next Week:

M - Rest.

T - Climbing.

W - Rest.

T - Climbing.

F - Rest.

S, S - More climbing!

Goals:

Rehab left middle finger.

Manage session load and build better habits.

Improve ability on tiny edges.

Louisville Lip.

Rigpa.

 AJM 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

> AJM - I guess you can brand that a deload week, you must have been champing at the bit for your big birthday session this week

Cheers!

I got 3 good board sessions in this week...

Monday - got old(er)! Day off, pottery morning and overindulgent lunch. Once the food coma has faded I hit the board. 

- on big feet, hard circuit into double easy circuit (40 moves)

- on big feet, hard circuit x2 (once each direction, 28 moves). This felt quite tough.

- on big feet, easy circuit into hard circuit (29 moves). Also quite tough. Possible more chalk would help retain good grip on the smaller holds on lap 2

Saturday - 5-3-5-3-5 lower intensity stuff. Easy circuit, big feet, bridging rests in the corners where needed.

Sunday - 1-on-1-off.

- I used the easy circuit on small feet for the most part

- I did two of the earlier laps on the terrible feet (30mm wooden hemispheres) which is doable but definitely means a lot more weight on the arms

- as a result the last two laps I had to do on big feet, too pumped!

Very solid session.

Back to Bristol for a few days this coming week. 

 Ally Smith 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

More of the same here this week; board and wrangling, wrangling and board, mixed up with some gardening for variety.

Week 10

M – Nothing but wind-down stretches after wrangling an overtired tantrum-toddler at bedtime.

T – Evening board. Shoulders feeling a bit worked, but decided to take advantage of toddler reverting to bedtime compliance. 10x 6B+ to 6C+ flash warm-ups, then projects:

  • “S1” 7B BM. Did crux undercut in isolation, then quickly realised that rotating grip into undercut is actually the crux and failed on that “move” on each of 5x goes.
  • “I like F15” 7C BM. Just 2 goes, as it was quickly evident that shoulder tiredness was going to prevent me doing this.
  • “Meagan Fartin” 7A+ BM. 2 rubbish goes, then tweaked position of flagging foot and did it next go 😊 7B/+?
  • “Hoopla” 7A+ BM. “Day-flash” – what a stupid phrase 😉 7B+?

And with that, all of the 7A+ BMs are done.

W – Felt wiped out. Nothing but evening stretches.

T – Evening board. Skin a bit janky; especially a hole in my R index from a cat scratch. 5x 6C to 6C+ flash warm-ups, inc a fun newbie “MAX Cuthbertson” 6C+. Then non-BM 7B flash before projects

  • “Jerbear” 7B BM. 6 goes split by playing on other problems. Start felt nails, then clicked. Crux crossover also felt nails, but is very similar to Meagan Fartin, so reasonable confidence it’ll go. Best go linked from floor to crossover.
  • “Pleven Style DG” 7C+ BM. Really surprised myself with this one and got quite close to holding the outrageous sideways campus crux. Might even go on a low gravity/good skin day?
  • “Fight or Flight” 7C+ BM. Just 2 goes. Encouraging that the long move R to feel possible, but the 2nd move felt borderline impossible (though bleeding from a tip probably didn’t help)

Non-BM 7B warm-down. 2nd go.

F – Nothing but evening stretches.

S – 2hrs gardening / pressure washing the patio.

S – Backache. Nothing but evening stretches.

OP Tyler 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Ross Barker:

Thanks for the Bala boulders beta, I think you’ve given me enough info to make me happy to stick to my usual haunts. As a lone boulderer I’ve now acquired a few pads but not worked out a way to carry them all so anything more than 5 mins from the road is a non-starter! 

In reply to Tyler:

I regularly carry 4. I put the rucksack style straps of one over the 'shoulders' of another so that I can carry two on my back with boots stuffed into the one on my back. If you put an arm through the carry loops on the others and bend your arm you can kind of hang it off your elbow without having to use any energy holding it up off the floor. This is ok for up to 20mins walk in but I wouldn't want to do more than that. It's hard work if it's very windy.

Lots of people strap two of 3 together but I find more than two on your back and it's so far away from you it's starting to lever you backwards.

 AJM 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

I use a ratchet strap to lash pads together, which I find good, although I note SSBs point around being pulled backwards once they stick out too far - I find strapping the further back pads higher up helps mitigate this since you can lean forwards slightly to get your centre of mass back in a sensible place.

OP Tyler 11 Mar 2024
In reply to AJM:

I have an old rucksack which I was contemplating taking to Alpkit to see what f they could attach some straps to to form a cradle although I expect one of the old fashioned frame rucksacks would be best for this. Even with a reasonable carry system I might struggle these days as my two biggest mats weigh 18kg between them and the third adds another 6. Fortunately there’s a enough roadside stuff to keep me busy and I might be prepared to make a couple of shuttle runs if i thought I was in with a realistic chance of getting up king of drunks or Lordy Lordy. 

In reply to Tyler:

A waist band makes a massive difference if they are heavy.  My newest pad has one and it makes a big load on the back way more manageable and means your shoulders are less tired for climbing.

 Ross Barker 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Somerset swede basher:

The worst bit is after the session when your body is tired, bloody hell my shoulders get absolutely wrecked!

 Derek Furze 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Ross Barker:

All this mat discussion is entertaining.  I finally bought a mat in October 2022.  It has remained in the boot of my car, still with tags on, for which I am obviously feeling shameful.  I hope to do more when work is off the agenda.

I've only bouldered above a mat less that ten times as I grew up in the beer mat era.  The idea of carrying four to the crag is somewhat bewildering, though I guess it must make a lot of difference.

 Ally Smith 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Derek Furze:

> I've only bouldered above a mat less that ten times as I grew up in the beer mat era.  The idea of carrying four to the crag is somewhat bewildering, though I guess it must make a lot of difference.

4? only 4?!?

I've done 7 on multiple occasions to pad out long traverses (3 full size, 2 small and 2 sit start). It starts to get heavy when you add: brush on a stick, tripod, fan, picnic, thermos, etc, etc 

 Derek Furze 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Ally Smith:

I couldn't possible carry that lot!  Besides, I've got a full set of tweeds, alpenstock, picnic hamper, rug, Abraham Bros-style camera and tricounis to manage...

Still, I've heard the Dugout repays careful preparation.

 Tigh 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Hey yeah the Uni stuff is part time and online so I haven't even thought about the clubs etc that might be associated with the Uni. Might be something to look at. 

Decent training week but more of the same 

M - Run, easy pace 10km 

T - strength session

Th - Run, easy pace 15km 

F - Strength session 

Su - Run 6 km 4 easy, 2 hard 

Plan this week is more of the same. 

Have a good one all 

T

 Randy 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Mon: First climbing session after my illness. Kept it easy and just did a bunch of easy boulders in the 4a to 5c range and a couple of traverses up to 6b+. Finished the session with 5x10 Pullups with 2 min rest

Tues: L-Sit 2x20s, 2x12 Pike Pushups, 40 Pushups, 2x20 Bodyweight Squats, 2x8 Lunges

Wed: Rest

Thur: Indoor Climbing, Boulderwelt south: increased the intensity a little bit but still keeping the volume high, majority of the boulders were in the 5b to 6a+ region and did one 6c+ traverse on the third Go. Finished the session again with 5x10 Pullups with 2 min rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: Indoor Climbing, Boulderwelt south, about 10 Boulder in the 6a to 6b+ range, most of them flash with relatively little rest (1-2 minutes at most), one 6c+ Traverse flash which did not felt at my limit; Pullups: 3x12,13 with 3 min rest

Sun: Indoor Climbing Boulder Ost: another low intensity, high volume session, 4a to 5c boulder and a couple of traverses up to 6b

Pleasantly surprised with this week. It felt like that i did barely loose any strength and also my fitness level was not too far off from where it was before my illness. From a technique point of view it also got better with every session though i still have the feeling that i lacking in this area. At least it is nice to know that at the moment if i am failing on a boulder it is never to a lack of strength, power or endurance.

 Derek Furze 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Randy:

Good to see you back on it! 🙂

 Tom Green 11 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Hi all. Thanks for statting, Tyler. 

This week’s primary activity by time has been talking about weather and conditions. Hours and hours of trying to work out what’s best to do with some challenging cons. There were however some interludes in the planning where things got done  

Week 10:

M: Skied in to Pointe Lachenal, climbed Star Académixte (ED1 6), skied out down the valley blanche.

T: Climbing wall. Fun, unstructured lead wall sesh. 

W: Piste skiing.

T: Skied/skinned in to the Cirque Maudit from the midi.

F: Went to climb Roger Baxter-Jones Directissime (TD) but turned back by avalanchey approach slopes. Skied back out on to the VB and down to Cham to sulk (not really! Knew it was a bit of a gamble) 

S: Piste skiing until they shut flegere due to wind.

S: Tea drinking, watching the rain/snow, trawling through hundreds of weather forecasts.

Week 11:

M-S: Various combinations of climbing, skiing and moaning about conditions.

STG (end March):

Maintain finger strength -average 2 sessions/week. (Done an ok job of this)

Consistent strength and conditioning -average 2 sessions/week. (Way off with this)

Get ski practice in: 5+ sessions Dec-Feb. (TICK)

2+ off Scottish VII list. 

1 off Slovenian Winter list. (FAIL)

1+ off Alpine Winter list.

 mattrm 12 Mar 2024
In reply to Tyler:

Weight - 14st 7lbs

STG - 10km fell loop in 1h 45m

MTG - 30 mile ultra (July 24)

LTG? keep on trucking?  stay fit? ummm

BHAG - F7A boulder somewhere / kickflip

M - Rest

T - 2k

W - Bouldering @ Llangorse (1h 45m), 10k, 450m asc Pen-y-Fal, 1h 50m

T - Rest

F - 2k run

S - S - Rest

Weekly kms - 14k

Diet status - Average

The idea behind recording the diet stuff is just to try and shame me into eating a bit better.  Not sure it's really working, but hey ho.

Went bouldering.  Even better bought myself a book of 10 tickets, so I have to go back.  It's quite a nice setup.  What's probably a 10-20 deg circuit board.  45 training board, which uses an app called RetroFlash.  70 deg 'cave'.  Nice traverse wall as well.  Reasonable general bouldering wall.  The drive there wasn't as bad as expected, about 20-25 minutes or so.

Got a 10k run in cause I couldn't be bothered with a longer run.  Nice run tho.  Got some 2ks in now I've got some road daps again.  Just to bulk things out. 

Had a genuinely relaxing weekend for once.  Did very little.  Was really nice.  Not really going to keep on mentioning the skateboarding on here, but it is up on my activity log.  Just mostly enjoying rolling around the local park while trying to get the odd trick back and not get injured.

 Derek Furze 12 Mar 2024
In reply to mattrm:

Great to see the bouldering starting up!  

We are all tracking your skateboarding progress (somewhat heart in mouth) and are keen to see the results!


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...