UKC

Did Deep Cut Chimney last Thursday. The entrance pitches to the Chimney were verglassed and the whole route very lean. Heard that two others that did it probably the day before and also found it harder than the grade. Any opinions out there?

In reply to Root1:

A good honest thrutch, the crux back and footing will see little change in grade.

In reply to Andrew Clarke: the crux wasn't the crux it was lower down where it was thin and verglass.

Did this way back in 1992, with Pete Davis.

Powder all the way up to the first belay. Thin ice on the 2nd pitch so hard work. The first pitch was bomber Neve.

In reply to Root1:

Have only done it early season clearing powder snow, with nae ice and thought good old school lV.

In reply to Scott_vzr: Dr Pete Davis?

In reply to Root1:

Did it yesterday and thought lower sections were as hard or harder than back-and-foot section, but within thbounds of the grade.

On a related note, what's normal way the exit is done? I had my feet on the climber's right side of the gully (left-side facing out) and worked my way horizontally out, then up to stand on the jumble of jammed boulders. Are pictures on t'internet of people facing the other way and appearing to come out higher up having gone vertically straight up from the back of the gully but hard to tell due to nature of the rock architecture.

Are both done equally regularly or is one more the norm?

In reply to Root1:

Stays the same grade unless it's a 1987 style winter when the grade drops to II.

In reply to niallk: I also did the route a week ago. Bottom bit thin and verglassy but well protected. Great route but hard for grade in current conditions.

At the top I climbed up to the tat in the roof using just hands with feet facing right looking up gully and back to the wall.i then changed direction and swing around the corner to my left side. I therefore finished on the left of the gully as you look up the gully. The top was a lot easier than the bottom of the climb but just looked intimidating.

In reply to Root1:

Did it Saturday. Amazing route and excellent turf. Felt bang on grade to me but I've relatively limited winter experience. Nobodys Fault, just to the right, felt much stiffer on Sunday - with two v tricky pitches. Hells Lum's in good nick right now.

In reply to Root1:
Thanks for the replies folks. Did anyone find a no 3 friend in the top section that my mate inadvertently left behind. There's a free beer for the finder.
When I did the route I felt it was about the same as point 5 difficulty wise.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: Yes.

I was very lucky to have an RM Doctor, just back from Everest, as a WInter Climbing Mentor. We did the Inglis Clark route on Creise, Sron Na Lairig and Deep Cut Chimney. Also micro navigation off those routes. I had only done rock climbing and summer walking before then. Early starts, normally sat waiting for the snowplough at Tyndrum he had a wee Xr2.

I was on the dole those two winters, so had the time......

Recently saw him on 'Doctors and Nurses at War'.

In reply to Root1: Just realised, form other replies, is this on Stob Coire Nam Beith in Glencoe or is it another Deep Cut Chimney ?

In reply to Scott_vzr:

Good point. I assumed it was the Hell's Lum one and guessing from references to back and foot above others did too. Not sure from OP which it is though.

In reply to niallk: Ah, I was meaning the Glencoe one.

In reply to Root1:
Cairngorm one

In reply to Root1:
Hells Lum DCC
Did it a couple of years back in lean nick. The top pitch started with a very tricky strenuous pull around a sort of chockstone? then some neve in the bed of the chimney, then the bare rock to reach the upper chockstone. This bit was the crux. I've done easier tech 5 mixed! My opinion. I think my mate who led it removed his crampons for the last bit.

In reply to Root1

My post about it being grade II was a wind up. Sorry.
I did the Hell's Lum DCC back in the 90s. I don't remember it having neve on it- I'm sure that would make it easier.
We got held up by a party in front and I had to lead the final chimneying pitch by headtorch. It looks improbable when you first see it, eh? It was heavily verglassed which added some unwanted extra spice and seriousness. I don't think it's harder than tech 4 though. Superb route.

In reply to Wee Davie:

It's given IV,5 now. It's still IV,4 in Scottish Winter Climbs but should have been IV,5.

In reply to Wee Davie: I agree with you. In fact, I think it would get III 4 in the Lakes, but then, for a route to get IV in the new guide is a stellar achievement. 90 degree ice seems to be the basic qualification for IV.