UKC

Possible new Peak District Ice climb.

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 andy wa 11 Feb 2021

Haven’t posted in a while. Thought this might be the best place to ask. How do you find out if you have done a new route other than using guidebooks/ UKC? And if it is a new route how is best to log it? Talking about a possible new ice route in a quarry in the Peak District. But want to check if it has been done previously. Thanks in advance for any useful help. 

1
 PaulJepson 11 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

Is the quarry already on UKC? If so, and the route isn't listed, just add it and list the first known ascent. If it's a line that's obviously been done before, maybe just caveat the record to state that it had almost certainly been climbed previously (to save face when some old codger kicks off about you trying to steal their route). 

 andy wa 11 Feb 2021
In reply to PaulJepson:

Thanks Paul, sound advice. Will add it and upload pictures shortly. Although in a new quarry that’s not on UKC. 

 im off 12 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

Millstone?😂

 Iain Thow 12 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

Hi Andy,

I had a look at the place during the Beast From the East a few years ago. The headwall had half a dozen lines on it then, all complete except for the top tier (which was soft snow with a big cornice). I played around a bit on things on the 4th tier (you can walk in to it from the left) but decided doing a complete line was above my pay grade. Vaguely intended to come back with a rope and partner but haven't got round to it (despite living little over a mile away!). I asked around a bit but didn't come across anyone who knew about it. Well spotted.

 Al Randall 12 Feb 2021
In reply to im off:

> Millstone?😂

You can joke and I know the event you are alluding to but I seem to recall Green Death at Millstone being climbed back in the 70's with enough ice to warrant axes and crampons. 

Al

 nigel n 13 Feb 2021
In reply to Al Randall:

Yes, Tom Proctor led it in 1979

 SamSimpson 13 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

What are you going to call it if it is first ascent Wandy?

Looked ace!

Post edited at 14:43
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 13 Feb 2021
In reply to Sam Beaton:

Another shot takes a little later that week by the look, and one of Waterfall Swallet at around the same time.

Post edited at 16:30

 Big Lee 13 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

Presume it's not Masson Lees? Ramon Marin has just done a couple of new routes there. 

 andy wa 13 Feb 2021
In reply to Iain Thow: I also looked at it back in the beast from the east season and also couldn’t find anyone to climb it with then. Its been itching at me to get back and climb it, so a quick check on Wednesday to see if it’s in, and then got to finally climb it on Thursday. 
 

glad to see others have been on it since and added some other routes. Definitely more potential if we get another good cold snap. 
 

hope your well Iain. 
 

Andy

 andy wa 13 Feb 2021
In reply to Big Lee: no it’s Eldon Hill quarry near Sparrow Pit. 

 andy wa 13 Feb 2021
In reply to SamSimpson:went for COVID Wall, thought it was relevant! Not certain we had the first ascent, but thought it was time it got named and logged. 

 SamSimpson 14 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

Ha nice one. It looked like a Canadian NF haha

 Groundhog 14 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

There have been dozens of climbable lines here over the last few days. Probably all gone now or  will be very soon. I wouldn't have thought there was any point in claiming new routes. Most have probably been done before. We noticed a few old rock pegs around. Anyway they will almost certainly never form in the same way again. If we ever get another beast just turn up and bash away!

5
 andy wa 14 Feb 2021
In reply to Groundhog: Yes probably melting now. Think your right about it being done before. But I believe it should be shared with other climbers, let others go and enjoy the ice. Can’t be doing with secret venues that only a select few know about! I also think it’s good to name them and give descriptions, most climbers like climbing established routes and having a purpose, rather than just going bashing about. Your right they may not be the same again, but isn’t that the case for most ice routes? I have noticed the line that we climbed before and it looked very similar and it will be back in the next very cold snap, perhaps in another ten years time, seems to be the first in the quarry to come in.

 Graeme Hammond 14 Feb 2021
In reply to andy wa:

Someone has added a comment to the logbook and included some details about climbing the route in 2010 including a link to a photo so unfortunately it looks like you weren't the first.

Assuming there would be no access issues i think you are right that it is better to let everyone enjoy it in the future when ever it next forms which I'm guessing is fairly sporadically.

ps sorry but i think his play on words of the Staden quarry classic is a better name

Post edited at 23:18
 Groundhog 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

I agree with andy wa regarding secret crags. However regarding access please consider this, copied from UKcaving:   (The DCA is the Derbyshire Caving Association)

ELDON HILL QUARRY

DCA’s website now has details of the latest developments in the access situation. Chatsworth own the Quarry and don’t want the site widely publicised at this stage, and their tenant farmer has concerns of his own regarding visitors. Natural England also have an interest as the Quarry is part of the Castleton SSSI. However, an accommodation has now been reached and anyone interested should refer to thedca.org.uk/

At the very least the Chatsworth Estate require visitors to have public liability insurance.

The quarry is in a quite dangerous state and I don't think the owners would be very happy about climbing. Probably best to keep a low profile.

Anyway lets hope for suitable cold conditions to occur again. The climbs are really quite good.

 Graeme Hammond 15 Feb 2021
In reply to Groundhog:

Good info. On reading my reply again it reads like I'm assuming there is, or would be no access problems when clearly like many former quarries access is sensitive and is the complete opposite of my thoughts. Usually private land no access signs are a bit of a giveaway in most of these quarries in the peak and as you say keeping a low profile is advisable. I don't think this one is going to have much appeal if any outside of rare particularly cold snaps.


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