Rockfax Description
The beckoning break gives a good pump with runners galore. © Rockfax

FA. Roger Greatrick 1983

Hidden 27/Oct/17 Lead O/S
eb202 15/Oct/17 2nd dog

First route of the day and muscles were cold; not a great warm-up. Was unable to reach the jams in the back of the break and the footwork is not great, so slapped along the slopers, making it rather tiring. Got through the hard bit and hesitated, not sure whether to swing round the arete or go direct, so ran out of steam in the process. After a quick rest, jumped for the pocket on Old Friends and made some rather awkward moves to re-gain the traverse. Quite entertaining. Felt that this would be challenging for the short to lead due to the position of the break in relation to options available for the feet re placing gear.

with Michael
Mike505 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Josh Hadley 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Lukem6 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Gerlach 13/Aug/17 2nd dog

one rest on rope, hard work when you dont have the span to reach between foot ledge and hands ledge!

quickdrawmcraw 13/Aug/17 Lead
John R Coller 13/Aug/17 TR RP
mattcyp88 12/Aug/17 Lead
with Dad
Jim Slater 20/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Def easier for the tall, so didn't find it too bad.

with Nadine
samkat 20/Jul/17 2nd
with Trevor
Mowglee 20/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Ali
fechtn 20/Jul/17 2nd dog
Simon Holland 19/Jul/17 2nd
with JonesE
JonesE 19/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Looked like there'd be footholds from the ground, found one halfway along but that was all. Pumpy but never desperate. Enjoyed it.

with Dutch
Hidden 26/Jun/17 Lead
PatrickBoothroyd 07/Jun/17 2nd O/S
manwithacam 03/Jun/17 2nd

Very good, great holds. Lots of fun

with Mark Grist
The Grist 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
Ben Bransby 23/May/17 Solo
Kevin Cass 14/May/17 2nd dog
with R. Stopps
Roland stopps 14/May/17 Lead O/S

Is it said in the book. Not good for short people . hard work but fun

Keith Swainson 28/Dec/16 Lead dog

Oh the shame. Ran out of beans trying to leave the traverse completely the wrong way. barely any feet for short me, one of mine was in the break most of the way. Brilliant route. Well worth at least one more star.

with Georgie
admackie 13/Nov/16 Lead
Hidden 02/Nov/16 2nd
AshBarnes 08/Oct/16 TR dnf

I got all the way to the end of the crack!!!

with UWE CC
hutchay 08/Oct/16 TR O/S
Tom.Priestley 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Missed the footholds on the ledge below. Quite sustained.

Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Andypeak 07/Aug/16 Lead dnf
andrzej kierzek 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Hidden 16/Apr/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Dec/15 2nd dog
Mark Stevenson 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Mattlamb90 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Ad Aus
phillipjohnson 16/Aug/15 2nd
budchawla 16/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Tried this as the last route of the day after all the smart climbers had long left to escape the midges. Barely even got started before I decided it was time to abort and go home. Next time!

mark4344 10/Aug/15 Lead
with Dave Rich
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Neal Jobling 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy but very good, would be even pumpier if your short.

with Thomas, Tracy
Mowglee 30/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Ali
Tubs 12/Jul/15 Lead dog

It claimed another scalp when I pumped off the last move. Not a good warm up.

with David B
Hidden 12/Jul/15 Lead dog
LovelyMrTom 23/May/15 2nd
CrispsSmiths 23/May/15 Lead dog

Ate my Friends, ate my hands, ate my pride.......

spragglerocks 26/Apr/15 2nd

Messed up the end by trying to go up too early on the traverse. At full stretch if you're short!

with Misha
mattlyons 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Wizzy 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
harry_lewis 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Matt Lyons
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 17/Apr/15 2nd O/S
cdpuk 17/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy, but good gear, if you can stop to place it. Feels serious for HVS.

elbeanio 11/Apr/15 Lead β
manxclare 05/Apr/15 2nd
with jon22
John sealey 05/Apr/15 Lead
dan_o_b ??/2015 2nd dog
craig.england1 ??/2015 Lead dog

Gear drag was a bitch and it was all hands

BushwackerBritz ??/2015 -
benkelsey 18/Oct/14 2nd rpt

wet and pumpy.

Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Lenny 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
Gudge 17/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Excellent pumpy fun!

Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S

pumpy but fun

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 28/Aug/14 Lead rpt

dogged it over a year ago, was abit sketchy at the end of the traverse but finally done it properly!

keith Lonsdale 17/Jul/14 2nd
andybirtwistle 17/Jul/14 Lead

Very pumpy as there is little for the feet.Difficult to grade HVS maybe but there are a lot easier :)Great trip though.

Hidden 04/Jul/14 Lead dog
Rob Laird 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
ipegg 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Simon Clark, Rob Laird, Richard Apthorp
timreynolds 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

Massively dogged! Had to prussik to regain traverse after resting. Phill and Sonja both came off but Mike managed it without resting - impressive!

mikehenesy 14/Jun/14 2nd
Jay.Carr 11/Jun/14 Lead
mapperley samurai 08/Jun/14 2nd
with Lewis Holmes
dannyboy83 26/May/14 Solo O/S
James Oswald 19/May/14 2nd O/S

Cool traversing, though seconding the 2nd half didn't go exactly as planned. Was going to face a giant swing on 2nd if I fell off the end of the traverse (jon had no more gear after the rest). So instead I went up the finish of old friends. Ace finish, pumpy!!

pebbles 17/May/14 2nd dog

dogged frigged rested and fallen. insanely pumpy, feck all for your feet.

with mick green
sibluer 05/May/14 TR
caradoc 03/May/14 Lead dog

Fell on final moves onto arete, pulled through then fell again, a poor effort.

with Matt H.
petecallaghan 03/May/14 2nd dog

Chris lead a variation that moved off the hand traverse halfway. V tricky move off the break that took me a few goes to figure out. Another rock-over ...

with Chris Brown
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
DaveMo 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf

wet holds. fell/ditched twice on traverse. couldn't place second piece of gear.

Ade in Sheffield 14/Sep/13 Lead

one rest/slump good route, sustained

Thinker01 31/Aug/13 2nd β
RFWilkie 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy but OK if you move quickly.

with Mark
Hidden 26/Aug/13 Lead
ERH 25/Aug/13 Lead dog
Sarah Radford 25/Aug/13 2nd dnf
with Ed
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
alooker ?/Aug/13 2nd O/S
dr_botnik 14/Jul/13 2nd dog

missed the lower break for feet and slipped off making a lunge for good holds. much easier when I saw what I imagine are gear placements for crypt trip.

deacondeacon 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

One cam halfway across traverse which I was carrying in my mouth.

edd rab 26/Jun/13 2nd dog
with adrian scott
adrianscott 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Edd Rab
en7edh 22/Jun/13 TR RP
SteveM 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

Second attempt. Fell off, pulled the ropes. Fell off again and dogged it from there. Third time lucky...

with Kat
kitkat78 02/Jun/13 2nd dog

Not so much climbed as traversed with a rope for support...

with SteveM
Lumbering Oaf 30/Apr/13 2nd dog

Pumpy. Couldn't always see where to put feet. Tough traverse.

hotfeet 30/Apr/13 Lead dog

Very little for the feet.

with Matthew
mark4344 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

great route, exciting traverse.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 21/Apr/13 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Nov/12 Lead dog
franhammond92 27/Oct/12 2nd dog

Horrible pumpy bastard of a route. Got horrdendously pumped at the crossing with old friend, fell off and couldnt get back on. Ended up prussiking up for amusement to get back on.

shaunhumphreys 27/Oct/12 Lead dog
MikeLeeds 21/Oct/12 2nd
with Wayne Higgins
Laurence Cowton 20/Oct/12 Lead dog

First route of the day. Vince lead across the hand traverse only to fall on the last move. Pulled the ropes through and I re-lead it clipping/resting on his gear. Very sustained!

with Vince
chrisallan 14/Oct/12 Lead dog
Colin Scotchford 08/Sep/12 Lead
London Luke ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Great fun. The footholds are there but sometimes not that obvious. Will swallow as many cams as you can carry.

with Alex
Hoyes 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Could only just reach some of the foot holds.

David Kay 06/Jun/12 2nd
with Simon Coldrick
Batt 06/Jun/12 2nd dog

This has to be about 5c if you're 5'4'' and not a monkey

chrism225 04/Jun/12 Lead dog

So pumped, was like one move from the end!

with jem, Jake Young
Jake Young 04/Jun/12 Lead β

Pre placed gear, fun route

with Chris
Mowglee 20/May/12 Lead dog

Fell off trying to go up before the end - should have just carried on along the break until the slab!

with Ali
Somerset swede basher 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
Tim Rodgers 12/May/12 2nd
batterj2 12/May/12 2nd dog

Ingenious use of a Kleimheist to get back on the climb after the rope stretched too far! :)

with Tom Parry, Alexandra Lewis
will9911 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
steven 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Will Taylor
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 2nd
Nigel Bond 02/Nov/11 TR
with Bern Hardman
cobweb 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with euan naismith
Adam Booth 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jeremy Windsor
andysroom 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Skell 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jules
Matt Shepherd 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Houseman
bobstones 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/11 2nd β
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/11 Lead
JasRY 31/May/11 Lead dog

Very pumpy!

with Stephen Kearney
Dibdawg 28/May/11 2nd RP

1st effort climbed up too early from the traverse and got pumped.

with Mark Sheridan
Hidden 05/May/11 Lead
pudding 01/May/11 Lead O/S

very well protected but equally strenuous, can see why the 3 parties before me gave up half way

with john phethean
willworkforfoodjnr 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Great fun!

with Kieron
nicolat ?/Apr/11 Lead rpt
mattorford 27/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S
nigel pearson 06/Nov/10 Lead dog

A good example of an HVS that feels harder than many E1s. I got very pumped and fell at the end of the traverse. Make sure you warm up well before getting on this. No really hard moves, but many of them and very little rest.

with Yoko
marclloyd77 10/Oct/10 2nd
John Tanner 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead
SteveM 30/Sep/10 2nd
with Alex
SteveM 30/Sep/10 Lead dnf
with Alex
uphillnow 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Found the first few meters hardest and was pushed. Placing the gear uses up a lot of energy. The second time I did it I spent a little time placing a big cam at full (left) reach and moved across quickly untill it is easier to stand and place gear - much nicer (2014). One of the more strenuous 5a pitches at Stanage.

Hidden 20/Sep/10 -
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead dnf
jack89 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Well fun, but not really at the time! Would be much harder without your second telling you where to put your feet! Mega disco fun times

with Purdy
JamesPurdy 16/Aug/10 2nd
joese7en 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
AJ007 31/Jul/10 Lead
with Mike H
petellis 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for years, it was every bit as hard as I was expecting, had me squealing like a pig.

with Bex
hailtryfan ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Rachel Slater 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Chi Cheng 28/May/10 2nd O/S
DanH9883 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Raho, Lee
Bob M 13/Apr/10 2nd
with Stewart Walker, Paul Rigg
raptorheli 16/Mar/10 Lead dnf
with terryb
Marcin78 ??/2010 Lead
with Nick
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd O/S
petegruf 27/Sep/09 Lead dog

Not technically hard but v strenuous

with mark l
Twisty 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel Stock
james.f.williamson 13/Sep/09 2nd


with Jez Wingate
Darragh ?/Sep/09 2nd dog


with Mike
nickwhimster 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with olly
mikehenesy ?/May/09 2nd O/S

Ben didn't fancy the traverse, so I filled in. Aparrently I would have taken a bit of a swing in a groundwards direction so maybe he was right.

with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 19/Apr/09 2nd
DavidEvans 19/Apr/09 Lead dnf
with Shauna Cunningham, Jules Vulliamy
Graeme Hammond 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

i was extremely pumppy and only just made it onto the face

with anthony
Alfredo 04/Apr/09 Lead
with Ben H
b.hayley 04/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with alfredo
Lou Kennedy 02/Apr/09 2nd
Adam Potter 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S
simonp ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nicki Hearne
pigeonslipper ??/2009 Lead dog
Simon Davenport 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Brian and Dave
MikeLeeds 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 15/Aug/08 Lead dog
Toby Dunn ?/Aug/08 Solo
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead
sparkass ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Castleclimber 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Daniel Leite
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
Dale ?/May/08 Lead dog

fell at the end of the crack got to pumped dam. top hvs

gingerdave13 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with stig
OffshoreAndy 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Skell
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
skelf ??/2008 2nd
with duncan campbell
Bristoldave 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Sorry bout the swing gareth.....

with Protheroe
JPGR 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Daniel
dan gibson 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with AJ
Hidden 04/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Si dH 08/Sep/07 2nd dog

Still desperate, 3rd attempt at this route in total, its so hard. Could have made it a bit further tha npreviously but Neil had rested on a nut in the same place I have done twice in the past, and I ended up sitting on the rope to get it out. The nhad to have a nother rest at the very end of the traverse though, struggled ot get round the arete. Very unfit at the moment.

with Neil Furniss
Alfredo ?/Sep/07 Lead dog

Slumped on to rope at end of traverse then continued

with Ben H
b.hayley ?/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd O/S
mattyork2 15/Jan/07 Lead β
Hidden 14/Jan/07 2nd dnf
Hidden ??/2007 -
Si dH 02/Dec/06 Lead dog

no desperately hard moves but sustained 4c/5a all the way and no rests at all, uber-pumpy. I had ot have one rest where it crosses Old Friends (the same place where I stopped and gave up 10 months earlier). Top-end HVS.

with Neil Furniss/Tom Lambert
Nicos 03/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with ray
Hidden 10/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 06/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/06 Lead
givemetea 08/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Tim
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead dog
cem 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Sep/05 2nd
Hopevalleypaul 03/Jul/05 Lead dnf
with Gareth W
Hidden 13/May/05 2nd
reg_measures 02/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with steve burdett
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
Smelly Fox 18/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Slim Beam
Gman ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Rob
Andy Chubb 01/Jul/03 2nd
with Bart, Steve Goodman
Mark Stevenson 14/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/03 Lead O/S
rocktigger ??/2002 2nd
with Sum old gadgy
alex_th ?/Jun/00 -
with Stephen Lumb
Hidden ??/2000 -
goi.ashmore 24/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Iain Fisher
Hidden 22/Jan/67 Lead
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High E1
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Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 51
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
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