Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
An excellent and exciting route crossing the wide smooth wall - not a place for a wobbler. From a grassy ledge, climb the steep slab just left of the corner to the start of a narrow ledge system. A delicate foot-traverse leads out left until better holds can be followed directly to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke early 1960s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , ULMC Classics , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , Peak Traverses
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fraser kid | 29 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The line in the old eastern grit is wrong. It ends the traverse and goes up too soon. It’s quite obvious when you’re there, just follow the ramp and the feet are worn out | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The line in the old eastern grit is wrong. It ends the traverse and goes up too soon. It’s quite obvious when you’re there, just follow the ramp and the feet are worn out |
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| slacky | 3 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route, added a bit of spice to it by forgetting my climbing shoes and leading it in trainers! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely route, added a bit of spice to it by forgetting my climbing shoes and leading it in trainers! |
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| leon | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: i thought the gear on this was fine(no less than any other vs). to be honest i think there are much better routes than this on plantation. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i thought the gear on this was fine(no less than any other vs). to be honest i think there are much better routes than this on plantation. |
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| Dale Berry | 28 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A most enjoyable delicate route. There is however a good deal more runners than the grade & route description might suggest. The traverse has an 'interesting' hold about half way along to keep you honnest though... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A most enjoyable delicate route. There is however a good deal more runners than the grade & route description might suggest. The traverse has an 'interesting' hold about half way along to keep you honnest though... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Flash Wall
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)