Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A contrived start with (easily placed side-runner up the pockets) leads rapidly to easier climbing above. © Rockfax
FA. Jonathan Wyatt 1985.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 31 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Description is wrong, upper climbing is technical slab moves and contains the crux unless you move off line left or right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Description is wrong, upper climbing is technical slab moves and contains the crux unless you move off line left or right. |
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| Ropeboy | 26 Feb, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A good route, some stiff pocket pulling leads to awkwardly placed gear and a tricky upper section. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A good route, some stiff pocket pulling leads to awkwardly placed gear and a tricky upper section. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 16 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first E3 :-) Hard pocket pulling at the start leads to slopey breaks and just-adequate gear. The slabby top-half is only \'easier climbing\' if you can climb slabs! I found it scary (but not sustained) climbing all the way to the top-out... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: My first E3 :-) Hard pocket pulling at the start leads to slopey breaks and just-adequate gear. The slabby top-half is only 'easier climbing' if you can climb slabs! I found it scary (but not sustained) climbing all the way to the top-out... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Boot Hill
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)