Rockfax Description
Start as for Wing Buttress to the flake-crack that runs up to the overhang. About face, flop across the gap, and swing rapidly round the arete to easy ground. Weird and not recommended for the short who may end up with a cleft skull! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1953

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide), Brown & Whillans Stanage.

PaulTanton 29/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Mark Duncan 27/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Thought the first bit felt a bit sketchy, but then found a fine horizontal nut placement. Managed to do the splits across the gap and didn't look back after that! Great fun

with Rich
alanblyth 08/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with George RMC
Hidden 18/Sep/17 2nd
Hidden 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
ned_85 06/Aug/17 2nd
SamStrong93 06/Aug/17 Lead
with Neil
Gordon W 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Rob Law
Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Alkis 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Route 19/36 of the VS Challenge After a long pause due to feeling like death, resolved by a Lucozade, pressing on. This really looks much harder than it actually is.

gav 08/Jul/17 2nd β

VS Challenge route 20/36. Start time 12:28. Let a soloist jump in front of us which cost us a couple of mins. James then had a faff with gear before committing to the crux. I was the only one of the three to go for the flop across.

jwdickinson25 08/Jul/17 Lead
with gav
Hidden 04/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S

20th route of the Stanage VS Challenge. Scary committing to the step across

with Jon Lawson
Hidden 01/Jul/17 Lead
Fraser hill-casey 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Route 19/36 12:50 Had a bit of a mare on this while trying to figure out the move. The flop ended up being much simpler than expected onto nice jugs.

evenL 26/Jun/17 2nd O/S
tom_drysdale 09/Jun/17 2nd O/S
CRead 09/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Pretty cool!

ashtond6 21/May/17 Lead O/S
w-watson 06/May/17 Lead O/S
J.E.Spencer 06/May/17 2nd dog
harry.morrish 03/Apr/17 2nd O/S

alex did it pretty dynamically , went for the more static method

Alex Hyde 03/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Tricky start

with Sam
The Grist 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Lee Hamilton
Flavio 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 25/Mar/17 2nd dnf
with Flavio
fatboyslimfast ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Vilius A. 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob Powell
khalidq 30/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Dan Vaj 30/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Khalid
Hidden 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 2nd
James_Kendal 06/Aug/16 2nd
MusicalMountaineer 06/Aug/16 2nd
with Barrie
Barrie Schofield II 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/16 Solo
spragglerocks 03/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with John
ned_85 03/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Senna 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Ned
petegruf 18/Jun/16 Lead
with patrick h
khalidq 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Nice technical slab to start with weird moves to finish. Easier than it looks.

Dan Vaj 28/May/16 2nd O/S
with Khalid
MSchobitz 16/May/16 2nd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 16/May/16 Lead O/S

Got to make use of my super long legs

with micki
Jake Young 14/May/16 Solo rpt
Tim Rodgers 09/May/16 2nd
Rockley 10/Apr/16 2nd
with Mowglee
Mowglee 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

VS challenge

with James
Hidden 22/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
MischaHY 21/Mar/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Jake Young 13/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Stanage VS Challenge 19 out of 36. cool move across.

MrFantastic 28/Feb/16 Solo O/S
gaz3212 14/Feb/16 Lead β
Teappleby 25/Oct/15 2nd
Nick1812P 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Tom A
Hidden 22/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 22/Sep/15 -
Luke Jones 19/Sep/15 2nd
Andrew Barker 10/Sep/15 Solo rpt

Once palming off the roof and once falling straight across.

Hidden 22/Aug/15 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/15 AltLd
TobyA 01/Aug/15 2nd β
with TonyB
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tebs 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Tim
HimTiggins 18/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Bart
keitht 11/Jul/15 2nd

Dewi is 5ft 6 and seemed to manage OK. To be fair I think it was easier for me at 6 ft.... Unlikely route but fun.

dewiturton 11/Jul/15 Lead
with keitht
Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

17 Falling towards a hold isn't a natural move to make, getting your feet to follow suit then adds interest, good fun.

with Paul Deane
MYox 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Weird and wonderful.

Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
jshields 30/May/15 2nd


with Mike Irwin, Jonathan Harrison
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
ChrisBrooke 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this. The initial slab moves were more interesting than the top half, which is straight forward for the lanky and flexible.

with Duncan Bell
Dan Hostford 23/May/15 Solo O/S
soph 21/May/15 Solo O/S
morganator 21/May/15 Solo O/S
Jim Walton 10/May/15 2nd O/S

Lock your foot in the crack

Hidden 10/May/15 AltLd
alaster tonge 06/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Fell off

with Assad Lahlou
Tom Pillow 05/Apr/15 Lead

such a fun route, love the dyno!

with David Pillow
mattpw 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great fun! A committing leap required which is quite a stretch for the short!

with Nick Butler
kp64zl ?/Apr/15 Lead

For me the crux was the technical slab, which was rather green.

with Julian M
Ropeboy 06/Mar/15 Lead

Odd but delightful climb. A tricky slab leads to a remarkable move across the gap. Managed to walk one hand across the roof till I was committed to the 'fall'. A one off :-)

dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead G/U
robgixer ??/2015 -
Mike_Hayes 01/Nov/14 AltLd
with Mike Lea
sparkass 13/Sep/14 Solo rpt

100 IAD No. 63 - I love this route!

charvey 07/Sep/14 Solo rpt

It felt harder this time, but it's still an awesome move.

charvey 31/Aug/14 Solo O/S


Boy 19/Aug/14 Solo
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tom_lewis89 18/Jun/14 TR
ralphio 18/Jun/14 2nd

Nice technical climbing to start. Dont have to be lanky to do the crux move over the chimney.

with Nik
Hidden 03/Jun/14 2nd
Colin Scotchford 03/May/14 2nd
Hidden 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
john max 29/Mar/14 2nd
dsh 29/Mar/14 2nd
eburki1 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Mike Hewitt ?/Sep/13 Lead β
Matt Cooke 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rosh
Paul Hy 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Lance - USA
JayAsh ?/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Solo
JemG 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Shaun Humpreys
shaunhumphreys 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S

good lead by jem!

with Jem
joemallia 03/Jun/13 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Managed to bridge.

with Tom B newbie
Graeme Hammond 06/Apr/13 Solo rpt

date might be wrong,but soloed about this date

Palmer 02/Mar/13 Lead

Fun. deserves more than 1 star surly?

sopaz 02/Mar/13 2nd
tebs 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
HimTiggins 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Bart
Hidden 11/Sep/12 Lead
Alex@home 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt
max_chan 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Steve Carty
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Ben Wolstenholme ?/Jul/12 -
jwpil 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mr. K 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 20/May/12 Lead
RM199 20/May/12 2nd O/S
Ram MkiV 04/May/12 Solo O/S


tom.e 23/Mar/12 Solo O/S
adie84 ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Solo
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead
buxtoncoffeelover 15/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Lodge 13/Jun/11 2nd
with Steve
Jimbo C 13/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Just Wow! and a word of warning, Chris pulled out a football sized loose block from where the initial flake meets the capping roof.

with Chris, Pete
Mike_Hayes 11/Jun/11 -
with Sarah Marks
victim of mathematics 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Ace. Used tall skills to avoid having to fall across the void. Nowhere near 5b though.

with Jaime
Joe Grondowski 25/May/11 Solo
with Lewis Andrew, Tom Churchman
Hidden 08/May/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
llamaglama 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Nick, Jam
Nick1812P 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Jamie
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
samwillo 25/Oct/10 2nd
with Jay
Jay C 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sam W
andy_e 12/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Phil Jennings 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mtempest 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 08/Aug/10 Lead
Danny Crump 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S
hailtryfan ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Danny
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Solo
Jay J 08/Apr/10 Lead
Aufton ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
GrahamHP 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with bernie sosin
craig d 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

very straight forward. Vs 5A. Could see how short people would find it harder. Very windy day

with Simon Kincaid
gazfellows 06/Aug/09 2nd
Will Cox 29/Jun/09 Lead β
schaff 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Mikkel
Hidden 05/Jun/09 Solo
Hidden 05/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Solo
jameshall 01/May/09 2nd O/S
with Tom Blond
Thinker01 25/Apr/09 Lead
with Bec
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd
Brown 03/Apr/09 Solo O/S
with Solo
lowersharpnose 02/Apr/09 Solo
Mr Tickle 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant..dithered until figured out how to do it, then it was relatively easy...commit to the flop! Really interesting.

will6459 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with James J
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2009 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with James Burbage
sparkass 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S

Very enjoyable

Hidden 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/08 Solo
Shauna 14/Jul/08 2nd


with Nick Willis
Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
TomHaigh 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
Matthallinan 24/Jun/08 2nd
with tom haigh
tom_1985 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Thomas
SecretSquirrel 10/Jun/08 2nd
with MeMeMe
MeMeMe 09/Jun/08 Lead

Fell off the start but didn't weight the rope 'cause no gear in, hoorah!

Julesthe1st 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Kirsten
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/08 Solo O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mike Pinder
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 2nd
Hidden 12/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead
roberto18 10/May/08 2nd

a strange route, but great non the less

with Tom Nickols
mic_b 02/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/08 Solo
Hidden 12/Feb/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 05/Jan/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/08 Solo
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 27/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/07 Lead O/S
pad-rat 09/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 01/Aug/07 Lead
PanzerHanzler 30/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Pat Holborn
Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Pythonist 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Great fun - almost as much as BAW's.

with Dad
stp 02/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Nicos 24/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Piers Harley 04/Jun/06 2nd
with Rob Laird
Rob Laird 04/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Different Steve 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
SteveM 22/Oct/05 Lead
with Mike
JDDD 16/Oct/05 Lead
Chris Craggs 06/Oct/05 2nd

Start felt more like 5a than 5b

with Colin Binks
Mark Stevenson 15/Mar/03 Solo O/S
MKH ??/2003 Lead O/S
Ben Bransby 07/Jun/02 Solo
Hidden 15/Feb/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
bigphil 24/May/98 Solo
ajc 25/Oct/97 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/96 Lead O/S
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 25/Jul/92 Solo
SR1970 ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
babymoac 16/Jun/90 2nd
with Alan S, Vic L
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set