Rockfax Description
Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams (knees!) before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1952

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Hard Grit history, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Brown & Whillans Stanage.

Mike505 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Loved it! Unless you can jam look elsewhere (apparently you can layback but where's the fun in that). One of the best jamming sequences I've ever done, very slimy top out today though. Thanks Don!

eb202 08/Oct/17 2nd dnf

Too cold.

with Michael
Mike Hewitt 03/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Couldn't move from under the roof, didn't want to completely knacker myself for the rest of the trip, so stopped after a few attempts.

with Cameron
soph 24/Sep/17 Lead
with Katherine Schirmaccer
edwingeorge 24/Sep/17 Solo G/U

Tried to avoid most of the laybacking by reaching for a better hold, took a fall, lessons learned. Second time lucky

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 01/Sep/17 Lead

2nd go from the ledge. Tough getting that left foot on.

dr_botnik 01/Sep/17 Lead dnf


with Theo
dr_botnik 29/Aug/17 Lead dog
Ilia Nadyrbayev 06/Aug/17 2nd dog
Kirill 06/Aug/17 Lead dog

Got to the top this time. Next time clean?

with Ilia
mrteale 06/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Fell off it last year and came down. This time around managed to thug my way up it. Foot slipped at one point and I was left dangling on two hand jams, a couple of knee smears held it together. Such a sandbag route but a good one no doubt. I don't recommend doing this in running shorts and a t-shirt by the way... good skin friction though.

MSchobitz 06/Jul/17 2nd dog

Felt much harder than I remembered!

Hidden ?/Jul/17 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 11/Jun/17 Lead dog

Couple of attempts to get through the crux

with Sachi
cragsman9000 01/Jun/17 Lead dnf
with Neil
Hidden 24/May/17 Lead dnf
ferdia 04/May/17 2nd
Andy Moles 04/May/17 Lead


with Ferdia
Hidden 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Mr Wild 26/Mar/17 Lead rpt
JulesV ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 03/Dec/16 -
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd dog
bryan61 08/Oct/16 Lead G/U

brutal, but ok once the very good jam is found

with m meaney
D.Russell 22/Sep/16 2nd dog
with Adam
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Kirill 18/Sep/16 Lead dnf
with Ilia
Ilia Nadyrbayev 18/Sep/16 2nd
MSchobitz 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

About HVS.

Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd dog
Hephaestus 11/Sep/16 Lead RP

Layback? Surely not the easiest way?

The Grist 11/Sep/16 2nd
ben.phillips 28/Aug/16 2nd dog
with Flavio
Flavio 28/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Fell head first onto the arete last year, fine this time. 'Proper HVS'

Stroppy 08/Aug/16 Lead O/S

No swearing required

Sam Husband 08/Aug/16 2nd dog

Not the motivation to exert that much pain on my hands when seconding (1st fall), couldn't get my hand in crack with the rope in it (2nd fall), used two worst words in English language front of small children (3rd fall) felt embarrassed and finished climb.

with Ed
stuartf 24/Jul/16 2nd dog

Brutal! Great lead by tubs.

Tubs 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Pleased with this. I found the thin crack getting up to the main event to be the crux!

with Stuart
ashtond6 03/Jul/16 Lead

Tried it years ago and got nowhere, ok today and really really good

Tala A 06/Jun/16 2nd dog
Senna 30/May/16 Lead dnf
Calum Wadsworth 26/May/16 Lead O/S

Very chuffed to get this first go (my beta 100% not recommended) . Brutal, probably physically the hardest I have had to try for a route!

Hidden 26/May/16 2nd rpt
JimboWizbo 14/May/16 Lead dog

Nails Jesus Christ.

with Ross
tebs 11/May/16 Lead dnf

proper. pumped and tried to jam it straight up. 30 cm whipper onto the cam. epic

with Ben O Connor
tebs 11/May/16 2nd dog

Good lesson in not placing cams too deep in the crack. had to rest on the rope to get the one I'd fallen on out. convenient excuse as I'd have had to rest anyway!

with Ben O Connor
morganator 11/May/16 2nd
with Dave Hollinger
robgixer 07/May/16 Lead dnf
derekwwl 07/May/16 2nd dnf
with Neil, Rob
Hidden 06/May/16 Lead dog
Andrew Barker 05/May/16 2nd

Brilliant stuff.

with Chris M
Conor Nally 05/May/16 Lead dnf

Dnf..thats hard if you've got poor hand jams

with jake dowell
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/16 2nd
chrishedgehog 20/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Found lots of fun rests under Dangler roof. None of them that restful. Thanks for getting my gear James.

with James T, Simon Outside
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 19/Apr/16 Lead O/S

What a beauty...

PaulTanton 19/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Francis Butler
Droyd 13/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Couldn't figure out how to get established in the niche, backed off. Pretty glad while abseiling, as the upper gully is slimy and filled with actual garbage.

cjcuni ?/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Decided to challenge myself on it 2 years after dogging the second, sadly I failed hilariously. Lots of fun.

with Stephen Rooney
alexcummings95 27/Feb/16 TR
mrteale 24/Feb/16 Lead dnf

Got high into the jams but couldn't get my feet high enough and fell out sweary and bloody.

soph 27/Sep/15 Lead

Second go- after putting jammies on!

with Tony Stone
Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead dnf
phildawson 15/May/15 Lead dnf

Getting into the layback coming out of the niche proved to be a bit too much. Hard but great fun and one to come back for.

with Sam Howell
Brannock 23/Apr/15 2nd
Andy Peak 1 17/Apr/15 Lead rpt

love how fisical this is no half measures

with Andrew Deckon
Wil Treasure ?/Apr/15 Lead
Nick1812P 26/Mar/15 Lead G/U

cold, cold and more cold led to horrendous hot aches then climbed from the ground without pulling the ropes.

with speedy
Hidden 04/Nov/14 Lead β
Hidden 03/Nov/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 03/Nov/14 Lead dog
Albachoss 01/Nov/14 Lead dnf
markalmack 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with little tom
Teappleby 17/Oct/14 Lead

Really good route, happy to have managed it now after dogging it a while ago. The crack was very wet and slimy but managed to power through it. So good!

Hidden 22/Sep/14 Lead dog
Ally Smith 14/Sep/14 Lead dog
WillDoyle 07/Sep/14 Lead
kyaizawa 01/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Totally flummoxed by the moves coming out of the niche though I may have taken up holds with gear. Tempted to go for round two next time!

eel 30/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Joe, Ian
pezzerrr 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Hallam 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Although I made a lot of noise, didn't actually find this too bad. Probably not a grit guru so still E1... Ben and James gave it a good go.

with James Mitchell, Ben Freeman
Hidden 09/Jul/14 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead
freemanTom 21/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Stuart had first go great face jam. I had brief go didn't get close, brutal.

with Stuart gmc
Rachel Slater 14/Jun/14 Lead dog

WOW. Biggest flounder ever. I will come back one day and do this.

benkelsey 06/Jun/14 Lead dnf

That went fairly badly.

with Shaun Humphreys
James Oswald ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Fantastic, desperate and graunchy climbing. I spent a long time hanging from two hand jams with an entire leg in the crack. Very hard

Hidden 09/May/14 Lead dnf
ashtond6 09/May/14 Lead dnf

think I got it wrong, couldn't do it or see any way to do it!

Brannock 03/May/14 Lead dnf

Ohh the shame, utter failure, couldn't even see what to do.

tprebs 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Glorious! Love a good battle. Even better I love hearing Conor gurning his way up

with Conor Cadden
cjcuni ?/Apr/14 2nd dog
funsized 21/Mar/14 Lead O/S

oooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh yes.

with Tom Green
LJC 10/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Oh the horror. Total shutdown!

with George
Teappleby 07/Mar/14 Lead dog

Found the moves hardish but ok, got myself in a bit of a pickle though when I placed a cam above my head. . .in the next jam.

pete1993 07/Mar/14 2nd
with Tom
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
perrys 10/Nov/13 Lead dog
with Dale Colver
Hidden 28/Sep/13 2nd dog
JamesRich 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf

not even close

Quarryboy 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Didn't have jamming skills or the pain threshold to pull off the crux, one to comeback for in the distant future after climbing on grit for a considerable amount of time.

Stanners 11/Aug/13 Lead dnf


with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Simon Davis ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Tim P
Michael Allday 13/Jul/13 Lead
masa-alpin 01/Jun/13 Lead RP

(Retro-)Flashed in my fist try to my surprise and pleasure! I failed to even top out last year, but remembered the tips and they were very useful (in that sense, it wasn't "retro"-flash). But this was a proper ground-up ascent! (Mitch cleaned the route for me last year after my failure.) Rob thought, after seconding with a great struggle, it was "the hardest E1 I have ever done, BY FAR" and harder than Tippler Direct E3.

with Tom B newbie, Rob G
robgixer 01/Jun/13 2nd
henry peter jenkins 23/Apr/13 Lead dnf

got totally sand bagged on this route. couldnt get round the bulge. hard but very safe e1.

with dale clover
Andy Peak 1 03/Mar/13 Lead

Just like reselling a bear:-)

with Cliff
andi turner ??/2013 -
madasten 20/Oct/12 Lead β

Up to crux using Gaz's gear, then surprised myself by finishing the route. It felt pretty tough on wet, slimy and insecure jams. Lots of effort needed.

with Miquel, Gaz
gazfellows 20/Oct/12 Lead

Failed on the crux move after hanging about for to long. Lowered off and billy led it and topped out in good style. Hard crux on slippery, awkward jamms! Good fun though.. I'll be back !!!! Again ..

with Miquel, Anna, Steff, Billy
masa-alpin 07/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Gave up after many falls at the crux. Mitch took over and cruised it.

with Mitch, Tim S
soph 15/Sep/12 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Mr Wild 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A good solid HVS!

MikeLeeds 07/Sep/12 Lead dnf


with John McMahon
Twisty 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Let's just say you can see how it got it's name. Solid jams though (crack was moist too) so it wasn't too bad. Good to see Will sit on the rope seconding this one... and give it the grade E1 8b.

Hidden 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/12 2nd dnf
dannyboy83 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Good fun!

with Nathan
Hannes B 10/Jul/12 Lead dog


with Aidan
manwithacam 04/Jun/12 Lead dnf


Hidden 12/May/12 Lead dnf
treg 08/May/12 2nd dog

Stern lead by Will. Took a fall and then had to swing on the rope to get my foot in a position to get the layback going. No way I was getting there on jams.

with Will
Cake 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't get my knee up

with Jon, Matt
Andy Peak 1 06/May/12 Lead
with random
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd dnf
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead
fatbuoybazza 14/Jan/12 Lead dnf

crappy jams coming out of the niche with green and damp crack above gave me enough excuses tae bail oot..

with DaveP
Hidden ??/2012 Lead dog
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
nige 03/Sep/11 Lead
with colin struthers, mark hounslea
akhughes 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 24/Jul/11 2nd
with loundsy
steve_yo 09/Jul/11 Lead
with jojo
JRae 29/Jun/11 Lead

Easier if you swear.

mark20 29/Jun/11 Lead RP

2nd go. Should have onsighted. Hard but not nails

Keendan 28/Jun/11 Lead dog

And I thought I was good at jamming! Wow this really put me in my place. Nails

JRae 05/Jun/11 Lead dnf
thomasadixon 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very tricky to work out the feet, felt suprisingly easy when I got it. Well chuffed to get it, seem to have learned to jam!

with Johnny
Mike_Hayes 02/Jun/11 Lead

pretty hard crux. I did Tom Thub the day before and found that, at e2, alot easier...

with Paul P
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/Jun/11 Lead RP

Finally bagged this sucker, never again!

Nicola 09/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/11 2nd
alex_arthur 19/Mar/11 2nd dog
with David Brigham
DJayB 19/Mar/11 Lead dog

Nails. Humbling!

walts4 ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
PeteH 22/Sep/10 2nd dog

Finally worked out the sequence (I think...) but bloody nails. I'd like to meet the person who thinks this is HVS! Harder than most E2s I've done...

with Alex
Jonathan Hall 04/Sep/10 Lead

Sooo hard, dogged this one to the max.

Nick1812P 29/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Jamie
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 27/Jul/10 Lead dnf


Hidden 21/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 11/Jun/10 Lead rpt

good honest hard work. found a massive undercut I don't remember using on a failed attempt some time last summer??

Hidden 31/May/10 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
wahniel 22/Sep/09 Lead dog

this is hard and did not go well. Remember it suddenly went when using other hand first but can't remember which. I doubt I'll try this again. It really does make you swear

with Stewart McConnell
Hidden 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 10/May/09 2nd dog

Slumped briefly on rope immediately after getting knees up on the side wall - could feel the skin coming off my right hand and decided it wasnt worth it on a top rope. Should have taken the tie me to find a better jam before pulling my knees up - but its bloody strenuous!

with Neil Furniss
simonp ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Shauna
Bob 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S

The hardest technical bit is getting to the niche, getting out is more about pain resistance!

with M. Bullough & S. Brock
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
irish paul 14/Oct/08 -
with Dave Roberts
Flash29 14/Oct/08 Lead dnf

got to the recess fine and then couldn't get out, i blame irish

with Irish
Flash29 14/Oct/08 2nd

after failing on lead had to aid my way out of the recess, fun fun fun

with Irish
Pete Graham 25/Sep/08 Lead
with Luke Porter
Brown 11/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead dog
Shauna 23/Jul/08 2nd dog

Horrific. And wet.

with Steve
Hidden ??/2008 -
Andrew Sloan 04/Nov/07 Lead dnf
Billg ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Carly 08/Jul/07 Lead dog
with seb
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Nicos 10/Feb/07 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2007 -
tumbling wizard 09/Nov/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Really hard thrutch moves, just managed a high foot up the inside of the crack to keep me on for the jams higher up, then feet on side wall

clive-greenwood ?/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 29/Jan/06 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Gus 20/May/05 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
Ben Bransby 11/May/05 Solo
SR1970 ?/Aug/04 Lead RP
Rik Dawes ??/2004 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead dog
with MH
Mark Stevenson 29/Mar/03 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead RP
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Feb/02 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
NeilGriffiths 22/Jul/01 -
with Simon Frost
Hidden 09/May/01 Lead
Martin Bennett 23/Sep/00 -
with MT, MD
Hidden 18/Aug/00 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 19/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 25/Sep/99 Lead rpt
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 22/Aug/98 2nd O/S
CrashMat Rob 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 26/Jun/98 Lead
CrashMat Rob 16/May/98 Lead dog
with Martin Smith, Nicky
Hidden ?/May/98 Lead
sadams 01/Nov/97 2nd
with Team Midlands
clark alston ?/Jul/95 2nd
leathers ??/1995 -
Hidden 19/Sep/92 2nd
K1 ?/Jul/92 -
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1991 Solo rpt

On a days soloing, nicely warmed up. Spur of moment decision but went well - found it harder on the lead before and since.

Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
sadams ?/Sep/87 Lead dnf
with Mark Bonham
Neil McA 17/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Tom Lewis
Paul Clarke ??/1985 Lead
with FMC
Ken Taylor 15/Jun/82 Lead
with Andy Bond
stp 12/Jun/82 2nd

A struggle. One of the few HVS's here I've avoided soloing.

charlesmfrench 15/May/82 2nd
with Alan Bennett
Hidden 06/Sep/81 2nd
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with JR
Hidden 02/Nov/80 Lead
KRB 17/Aug/80 Lead O/S
with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 17/Aug/80 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 28/Apr/80 2nd dnf

Not getting any better at this sort of thing. Martin led in big double boots.

with Martin Moran
Mark Kemball 23/Sep/79 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Aug/78 AltLd dnf

Date? Various feeble attempts.

with Angus McLean
Canyak ??/1973 -
clanger ??/1972 -
rogerskews ??/1972 -
with Dane Atkins
Hidden ??/1970 -
mikej 21/Aug/68 Lead dnf
with Mike Harris
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 61
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set