10m.

Rockfax Description
Fine technical climbing up the blank arching wall. Use a couple of chipped pockets on the right to climb the lower leaning wall leftwards, pass the bulge via wild mantel and finish direct. It gets popular when there is a snow drift and it can be highballed at f7A. There is even a left-hand version called Snow Blind Mice, f7B but this hasn't yet been done 'snow-less'. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Pegg (solo) 1994

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, The Shock Of The New, Consumed

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UserDateNotes
JR 21 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: IRT: Jon Read Maybe it should read, hard for the long legged. Getting feet up over the bulge to stand up is tough. Lower moves easier for the tall though i would imagine. IRT: Chris Craggs I assume you mean the undercut like chip just below the bulge. Its been there for as long as i have looked at the route whihc is about 2 years. Not sure whether it is actually a chip or just a bit of gritstone oddness. You don't need it at allll however to climb the route, so would seem odd to chip it there.
βeta?
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βeta: IRT: Jon Read Maybe it should read, hard for the long legged. Getting feet up over the bulge to stand up is tough. Lower moves easier for the tall though i would imagine. IRT: Chris Craggs I assume you mean the undercut like chip just below the bulge. Its been there for as long as i have looked at the route whihc is about 2 years. Not sure whether it is actually a chip or just a bit of gritstone oddness. You don't need it at allll however to climb the route, so would seem odd to chip it there.
JR 25 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Harder for the tall i reckon
βeta?
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βeta: Harder for the tall i reckon
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
jimpopeonarope 15 Jan Solo RP Headtorch ascent
Headtorch ascent
Hidden ??, 2019 Lead RP
Jenwood 9 Dec, 2018 TR
Hidden 9 Dec, 2018 TR
Hidden 21 Mar, 2018 Solo dnf
Hidden 20 Mar, 2018 Solo dnf
mrteale 20 Mar, 2018 Sent dnf
James Oakes 20 Mar, 2018 Sent x
Jwatson 20 Mar, 2018 Sent x what was left of the snow and a big stack of pads.
what was left of the snow and a big stack of pads.
Nick1812P 20 Mar, 2018 Sent x 2nd go after coming off at the lip
2nd go after coming off at the lip
charvey 20 Mar, 2018 Sent dnf Had a few goes, got to the mantle then got scared.
with Remus, Tom Pearson, AlexMorris, Harry Morrish, Jwatson, Tom Appleby, James Oakes, Nick1812P
Had a few goes, got to the mantle then got scared.
with Remus, Tom Pearson, AlexMorris, Harry Morrish, Jwatson, Tom Appleby, James Oakes, Nick1812P
tom.wp6 20 Mar, 2018 Solo dnf Snow pile and pads. From 2 jugs get 3 finger pocket out far left. Step into right jug and go for poor dish on lip. Get left foot near 3 finger pocket and right in left jug. Rock over on left and skrittle right foot up into a stand so left hand can get pebble or some pocket. Match feet then get left on slightly higher nibble. Then match right foot with right hand on lip and enter the slab....
Snow pile and pads. From 2 jugs get 3 finger pocket out far left. Step into right jug and go for poor dish on lip. Get left foot near 3 finger pocket and right in left jug. Rock over on left and skrittle right foot up into a stand so left hand can get pebble or some pocket. Match feet then get left on slightly higher nibble. Then match right foot with right hand on lip and enter the slab....
Teappleby 20 Mar, 2018 Sent x Above pads and what remained of a platform (cheers James). Second go, should have probably done a warm up.... Great fun though. Basically like a harder, higher version of Satin.
with remus, James Oakes, mrteale, Nick1812P, Calum Harvey
Above pads and what remained of a platform (cheers James). Second go, should have probably done a warm up.... Great fun though. Basically like a harder, higher version of Satin.
with remus, James Oakes, mrteale, Nick1812P, Calum Harvey
dannyboy83 3 Feb, 2015 Solo RP Made a bit of a snow platform so with a few pads its ok, though getting onto the lip is still terrifying.
Made a bit of a snow platform so with a few pads its ok, though getting onto the lip is still terrifying.
Alex Hallam 5 Oct, 2014 TR dnf Thought I may as well give it a bash since they they threw a rope down it. Split a tip, ARD.
with jacobjlloyd, Ben Corbey
Thought I may as well give it a bash since they they threw a rope down it. Split a tip, ARD.
with jacobjlloyd, Ben Corbey
jacobjlloyd 5 Oct, 2014 TR dog
nathanlee 26 Feb, 2014 Solo RP Tried and totally failed in the snow three years ago. The mantle is terrifying!
Tried and totally failed in the snow three years ago. The mantle is terrifying!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2014 -
akhughes 4 Apr, 2013 Solo β Ground up above snow
Ground up above snow
Bennykr 4 Apr, 2013 Solo RP Ground up 4th go, above snow, helped with good conditions.
Ground up 4th go, above snow, helped with good conditions.
Ledgelaw 3 Apr, 2013 Sent Snowball :)
with Maddy
Snowball :)
with Maddy
mark20 3 Apr, 2013 Sent x
Matt Cooke 1 Apr, 2013 Sent x Above snow
Above snow
jacobjlloyd 31 Mar, 2013 Sent dnf
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 Sent
quiffhanger 31 Mar, 2013 Sent x Super safe snowball with a couple of pads. Font 6c.
Super safe snowball with a couple of pads. Font 6c.
Ethan 30 Mar, 2013 Solo
with Don Walker
with Don Walker
al123 28 Mar, 2013 Sent Above snow and 2 pads. Really really cool. loved the crux moves.
with Crew
Above snow and 2 pads. Really really cool. loved the crux moves.
with Crew
Hidden ??, 2013 Sent x
MicheleC 8 Mar, 2012 Solo O/S
Fraser13 ??, 2012 Solo G/U
Hidden ??, 2012 TR dnf
bigie bob 17 Dec, 2010 Solo RP
Wft 12 Dec, 2010 Sent dnf Couldnt do the span to the lip, frustrating as this is not even the crux, will be back without influenza maybe, oh and tons of snow.
with Steve
Couldnt do the span to the lip, frustrating as this is not even the crux, will be back without influenza maybe, oh and tons of snow.
with Steve
Ram MkiV 12 Dec, 2010 Solo had one go yesterday but felt knackered after working the terrace so went home. Back again today, bit less knackered, but didn't think I was going to do it as holds and skin felt crap first few goes. Got there in the end - all about cut loose and mantle off right hand for me. Good effort snow platform builders - started on the juggy pockets so got all the climbing in if not all the danger.
with Guy
had one go yesterday but felt knackered after working the terrace so went home. Back again today, bit less knackered, but didn't think I was going to do it as holds and skin felt crap first few goes. Got there in the end - all about cut loose and mantle off right hand for me. Good effort snow platform builders - started on the juggy pockets so got all the climbing in if not all the danger.
with Guy
Ed Booth 11 Dec, 2010 Solo dnf keen to go back to this one! Snowball
with steve ramsden, Gus
keen to go back to this one! Snowball
with steve ramsden, Gus
Ian Broome 20 Feb, 2010 Sent Above snow drift and pads. One I don't think i'll be trying when the snow goes! Really great moves.
with Tom
Above snow drift and pads. One I don't think i'll be trying when the snow goes! Really great moves.
with Tom
Boy 10 Feb, 2010 - As a highball above deep snow
with Dan Varian
As a highball above deep snow
with Dan Varian
Hidden 31 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 30 Jan, 2010 Sent dnf
nai 30 Jan, 2010 Sent x A big drift up against the crag and many mats. Maybe Font6C+ as a snowball.
with lots of folk
A big drift up against the crag and many mats. Maybe Font6C+ as a snowball.
with lots of folk
Hidden 29 Jan, 2010 Sent x
Hidden 29 Jan, 2010 Solo RP
Brown 29 Jan, 2010 Solo β Above loads of pads and even more snow. A boulder problem!
with Lilifa
Above loads of pads and even more snow. A boulder problem!
with Lilifa
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden ?Jan, 2009 -
Gus 6 Dec, 2008 Solo RP No snow, scary!
with Rob Clifton
No snow, scary!
with Rob Clifton
Hidden ?Feb, 2008 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Feb, 2004 Solo RP
with Mike Weeks
with Mike Weeks
Hidden ?Feb, 2004 Solo RP
Jon Read ?Dec, 2000 Lead RP No mats. No snow either.
with Matt Gallagher
No mats. No snow either.
with Matt Gallagher
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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 14
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Bouldered
Toproped
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set