8m.

Rockfax Description
Thin smearing up the steepening slab. Runners in the crack become less useful as the sketchy two-move-wonder crux approaches. A popular first E6, though is it really E6 if you top-rope it first? Answers on a postcard to the Editor please. © Rockfax

FA. John Dunne 1988

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Consumed, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
north country boy 13 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soft Touch for E6 6b, technically not very hard, but very commiting and wouldn't ahve liked to have taken a fall from crux....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Soft Touch for E6 6b, technically not very hard, but very commiting and wouldn't ahve liked to have taken a fall from crux....
TomPR 16 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A fall from the crux is not deckable - I checked it with a rucksac... Only just though! 2 hard moves at the top, slowly losing the pebbles it once had.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fall from the crux is not deckable - I checked it with a rucksac... Only just though! 2 hard moves at the top, slowly losing the pebbles it once had.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 6 May -
Hidden 6 May Lead O/S
MagnumOpus 31 Mar TR
Martin Bagshaw 31 Mar TR dnf Close but no cigar.
with Grim
Close but no cigar.
with Grim
Hidden 31 Mar TR RP
Ben Bouissou 5 Oct, 2017 Lead
mshorter 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with ry
with ry
James Oswald 11 May, 2017 TR dog Fell off once on the crux and then did it. Good climbing, I wouldn't lead it though!
with Malcolm Scott
Fell off once on the crux and then did it. Good climbing, I wouldn't lead it though!
with Malcolm Scott
deacondeacon 8 Mar, 2017 Lead RP Night ascent. Dirty, dirty headpoint. First headpoint attempt my foot popped, I fell, luckily I'd left the top rope kit dangling over the edge next to the route and managed to grab it. Got rid of the top rope gear, gave myself a good talking to, and climbed it. Not the greatest of style (it's very onsightable) but it'll do for me, concidering it was at night and a bit green.
Night ascent. Dirty, dirty headpoint. First headpoint attempt my foot popped, I fell, luckily I'd left the top rope kit dangling over the edge next to the route and managed to grab it. Got rid of the top rope gear, gave myself a good talking to, and climbed it. Not the greatest of style (it's very onsightable) but it'll do for me, concidering it was at night and a bit green.
Rory_Cummings_NI 6 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf
Rory_Cummings_NI 6 Oct, 2016 TR
Hidden 8 May, 2016 2nd O/S
jacob shieldhouse hadley 8 May, 2016 Lead RP Most bullshit E6 (E4imo) f6b+ (would be f6a+ without the HVS!
Most bullshit E6 (E4imo) f6b+ (would be f6a+ without the HVS!
griffithpatrick 8 May, 2016 TR β
NDD 23 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
with sam harvie
with sam harvie
Flavio 26 Sep, 2015 TR dog All moves clean, the lead may happen
All moves clean, the lead may happen
robblowen 5 Sep, 2015 2nd RP
ashtond6 5 Sep, 2015 Lead RP Good climbing really nice sequence. Falling off not worth considering. First E6 in a (very short) session, a few top ropes then lead
Good climbing really nice sequence. Falling off not worth considering. First E6 in a (very short) session, a few top ropes then lead
BRoe 23 May, 2015 Lead RP
with Ash
with Ash
ashleab 23 May, 2015 Lead RP
with BRoe
with BRoe
Gambit 14 May, 2015 TR dnf Still on the list to lead this lifetime, just...
with Alone
Still on the list to lead this lifetime, just...
with Alone
Teappleby 13 May, 2015 Lead RP First had a go about a year ago and found the moves fine. Then had never got round to coming back soon after. Flashed on a top rope today and then did another few times. Really easy climbing (font 6B?) but just tenuous. Felt fine on the lead (first E6 lead). Also fair effort from Nick flashing it straight after!
First had a go about a year ago and found the moves fine. Then had never got round to coming back soon after. Flashed on a top rope today and then did another few times. Really easy climbing (font 6B?) but just tenuous. Felt fine on the lead (first E6 lead). Also fair effort from Nick flashing it straight after!
Nick1812P 13 May, 2015 Lead β First E6. flashed, with the gear in which makes little difference.
First E6. flashed, with the gear in which makes little difference.
Jackwd 10 May, 2015 TR RP Awesome! Just enough there. Long way off leading this at the moment though! That last move must be shit scary.
Awesome! Just enough there. Long way off leading this at the moment though! That last move must be shit scary.
Wizzy 26 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Not too hard, but really easy to slip off!! Bottom end e6
Not too hard, but really easy to slip off!! Bottom end e6
Hidden 24 Apr, 2015 TR RP
Cake 24 Apr, 2015 TR RP It just about went second try! But from the holds on the left is beter
It just about went second try! But from the holds on the left is beter
mark20 22 Sep, 2014 Lead β
Andy Peak 1 11 Jul, 2014 TR The lead may Happen!
with Andrew Deckon
The lead may Happen!
with Andrew Deckon
Jonathan Hall 12 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Teappleby 26 Apr, 2014 TR RP shunted. after a quick feel of the holds I quickly worked out the right beta for me, linked it several times, need to get it a bit more dialled before the lead though.
shunted. after a quick feel of the holds I quickly worked out the right beta for me, linked it several times, need to get it a bit more dialled before the lead though.
Hidden ?Jan, 2014 TR
CharlieMack ??, 2014 2nd RP
Patrick Hill 30 Nov, 2013 TR RP
will_benfold 5 Oct, 2013 TR dnf
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 TR dog
sgl0jd 20 Sep, 2013 TR O/S Might go back
Might go back
Adam Booth 20 Sep, 2013 TR O/S Pretty average climbing, but imagine it would be a good buzz leading it.
with James Dexter, Mike Grant, dave_rose
Pretty average climbing, but imagine it would be a good buzz leading it.
with James Dexter, Mike Grant, dave_rose
pipof747 26 Sep, 2011 Lead RP
MarkRoe 10 Sep, 2011 TR RP Clean third go. Hopefully I'll get the chance to go for the lead before uni.
with Peter Burnett
Clean third go. Hopefully I'll get the chance to go for the lead before uni.
with Peter Burnett
Hidden 27 Apr, 2011 TR
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 TR
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 TR
markalmack 16 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S 1st E6 onsight. Just my style!
with james marjot
1st E6 onsight. Just my style!
with james marjot
Kyle Rance 10 Apr, 2011 Lead RP First E6
with Scott Purdy
First E6
with Scott Purdy
Milnes 24 Mar, 2011 TR rpt
i_a_coops 20 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Looks shit from every angle other than on the route. The route wasn't as scary as belaying Jacob on it!
Looks shit from every angle other than on the route. The route wasn't as scary as belaying Jacob on it!
jacobjacob 20 Mar, 2011 Lead β flash straight after Ian on his gear. My foot popped and I cut loose as I went for the top... very exciting! yep... definitely alive.
flash straight after Ian on his gear. My foot popped and I cut loose as I went for the top... very exciting! yep... definitely alive.
nathanlee 19 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Easy if you keep cool, quite soft.
Easy if you keep cool, quite soft.
dominic lee 19 Mar, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Mar, 2011 Lead RP
Milne 28 Jan, 2011 TR RP 3rd go, probably never lead, fall looks horific.
3rd go, probably never lead, fall looks horific.
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
Ben C ??, 2011 -
Peter Holder 7 Nov, 2010 Lead RP Bit of a 2 move wonder, still a good route. Friction was very good.
with Dave Green
Bit of a 2 move wonder, still a good route. Friction was very good.
with Dave Green
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 TR O/S
St0neMonkey 16 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt Very scary indeed
Very scary indeed
peaches69 2 May, 2010 TR RP looks like pockets in pictures but its all faith in friction (hands and feet) and a couple of pebbles
with joe
looks like pockets in pictures but its all faith in friction (hands and feet) and a couple of pebbles
with joe
Rob1988 20 Mar, 2010 Lead RP
with Cal, Willl Wilson
with Cal, Willl Wilson
C coldwell-storry 1 Mar, 2010 Lead β
with rob lay
with rob lay
dannyboy83 19 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S First E6 onsight - big runout with crux being the last move. Not that hard but committing.
with Dad
First E6 onsight - big runout with crux being the last move. Not that hard but committing.
with Dad
Jacob Bloodworth ?Oct, 2009 Lead RP Shame I didn't man up and go for the onsight ...
Shame I didn't man up and go for the onsight ...
mux 27 Sep, 2009 Lead RP
with Simon Frost ,
with Simon Frost ,
MorganPreece 18 Sep, 2009 Lead
with Jessy, Maxim2023
with Jessy, Maxim2023
Maxim2023 11 Apr, 2009 2nd dnf very hard!
with monty attwood
very hard!
with monty attwood
hamer89 5 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
Skell 22 Mar, 2009 Lead RP
with Kelvin
with Kelvin
figfour ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
miastacey ?Mar, 2009 Lead RP After falling off the top on lead (thanks for the great belay Bob) I found a way of doing it static for shorter people. Really good climb.
with Bob Smith
After falling off the top on lead (thanks for the great belay Bob) I found a way of doing it static for shorter people. Really good climb.
with Bob Smith
Hidden 4 Jan, 2009 TR RP
Hidden 11 May, 2008 Lead O/S
maybe_si 10 May, 2008 TR O/S
jamiev 5 May, 2008 TR dnf
Hidden 26 Apr, 2008 TR O/S
Ram MkiV 22 Apr, 2008 Lead β Used beta as per the end of 'a gritstone year'. The moves aren't actually all that hard just felt quite unpredictable, tenuous and pretty bold. Really good though, much better route than I'd given it credit for in the past. Did have one fairly exciting moment when I got the top well enough to cause my right foot to pop but not well enough for it to be all over....
with Tommy M
Used beta as per the end of 'a gritstone year'. The moves aren't actually all that hard just felt quite unpredictable, tenuous and pretty bold. Really good though, much better route than I'd given it credit for in the past. Did have one fairly exciting moment when I got the top well enough to cause my right foot to pop but not well enough for it to be all over....
with Tommy M
whistler 12 Dec, 2007 TR dog I do not agree with the description in the guide. you definitely want to toprope it before leading :) so easy to slip at the top !!!
I do not agree with the description in the guide. you definitely want to toprope it before leading :) so easy to slip at the top !!!
Hidden 4 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
joe c ook ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
with Nate
with Nate
Wil Treasure ??, 2007 TR Straightforward on top rope, probably too insecure to fancy the lead with that fall though.
Straightforward on top rope, probably too insecure to fancy the lead with that fall though.
Ally Smith ?Nov, 2006 Lead O/S Quite steady for the lanky
with Aly
Quite steady for the lanky
with Aly
bronsonite 30 Sep, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 19 Sep, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden ?Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox ?Mar, 2005 Solo RP
Hidden 21 Jun, 2003 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 21 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Gus 26 Mar, 2003 Lead RP I've held someone's rope who took the ride off the top of this, if you're belaying get ready to sprint!!!!
I've held someone's rope who took the ride off the top of this, if you're belaying get ready to sprint!!!!
mark s ??, 2003 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2002 TR
morganator ?Feb, 2002 2nd RP
Jon Greengrass ??, 2002 TR O/S
simes303 ??, 2002 Lead RP
gavjwp ?Jun, 2000 Lead RP
with Gilli Helbig
with Gilli Helbig
marcoleptic ??, 2000 TR
Hidden 21 Jul, 1995 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 1980 -
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 44
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set