8m.

Rockfax Description
Thin smearing up the steepening slab. Runners in the crack become less useful as the sketchy two-move-wonder crux approaches. A popular first E6, though is it really E6 if you top-rope it first? Answers on a postcard to the Editor please. © Rockfax

FA. John Dunne 1988

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Consumed, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
James Oswald 11/May TR dog

Fell off once on the crux and then did it. Good climbing, I wouldn't lead it though!

with Malcolm Scott
deacondeacon 08/Mar Lead RP

Night ascent. Dirty, dirty headpoint. First headpoint attempt my foot popped, I fell, luckily I'd left the top rope kit dangling over the edge next to the route and managed to grab it. Got rid of the top rope gear, gave myself a good talking to, and climbed it. Not the greatest of style (it's very onsightable) but it'll do for me, concidering it was at night and a bit green.

Rory_Cummings_NI 06/Oct/16 Lead dnf
with Charlie
Rory_Cummings_NI 06/Oct/16 TR
with Charlie
dunnyg 08/May/16 2nd O/S

Mmmm... One scary step up, right foot up and reach.......

with Antonio, Mark brown, bryce, gareth uglow
jacob shieldhouse hadley 08/May/16 Lead RP

Most bullshit E6 (E4imo) f6b+ (would be f6a+ without the HVS!

with paddy
griffithpatrick 08/May/16 TR β
NDD 23/Oct/15 Lead RP
with sam harvie
FlavioL1989 26/Sep/15 TR dog

All moves clean, the lead may be possible

robblowen 05/Sep/15 2nd RP
with Jonny
ashtond6 05/Sep/15 Lead RP

Good climbing really nice sequence. Falling off not worth considering. First E6 in a (very short) session, a few top ropes then lead

BRoe 23/May/15 Lead RP
with Ash
ashleab 23/May/15 Lead RP
with Ben Roe
Gambit 14/May/15 TR dnf

Still on the list to lead this lifetime, just...

with Alone
Teappleby 13/May/15 Lead RP

First had a go about a year ago and found the moves fine. Then had never got round to coming back soon after. Flashed on a top rope today and then did another few times. Really easy climbing (font 6B?) but just tenuous. Felt fine on the lead (first E6 lead). Also fair effort from Nick flashing it straight after!

Nick1812P 13/May/15 Lead β

First E6. flashed, with the gear in which makes little difference.

with Tom A
Jackwd 10/May/15 TR RP

Awesome! Just enough there. Long way off leading this at the moment though! That last move must be shit scary.

Wizzy 26/Apr/15 Lead RP

Not too hard, but really easy to slip off!! Bottom end e6

Hidden 24/Apr/15 TR RP
Cake 24/Apr/15 TR RP

It just about went second try! But from the holds on the left is beter

with Matt
mark20 22/Sep/14 Lead β
Andy Peak 1 11/Jul/14 TR

The lead may Happen!

with Andrew Deckon
Jonathan Hall 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Teappleby 26/Apr/14 TR RP

shunted. after a quick feel of the holds I quickly worked out the right beta for me, linked it several times, need to get it a bit more dialled before the lead though.

rikbattye ?/Jan/14 TR
CharlieMack ??/2014 2nd RP
Patrick Hill 30/Nov/13 TR RP
will_benfold 05/Oct/13 TR dnf
Hidden 20/Sep/13 TR dog
sgl0jd 20/Sep/13 TR O/S

Might go back

Adam Booth 20/Sep/13 TR O/S

Pretty average climbing, but imagine it would be a good buzz leading it.

with James Dexter, Mike Grant, David Rose
pipof747 26/Sep/11 Lead RP
MarkRoe 10/Sep/11 TR RP

Clean third go. Hopefully I'll get the chance to go for the lead before uni.

with Peter Burnett
Hidden 27/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 23/Apr/11 TR
markalmack 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

1st E6 onsight. Just my style!

with james marjot
Kyle Rance 10/Apr/11 Lead RP

First E6

with Scott Purdy
Milnes 24/Mar/11 TR rpt
i_a_coops 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Looks shit from every angle other than on the route. The route wasn't as scary as belaying Jacob on it!

with Jacob
jacobjacob 20/Mar/11 Lead β

flash straight after Ian on his gear. My foot popped and I cut loose as I went for the top... very exciting! yep... definitely alive.

nathanlee 19/Mar/11 Lead RP

Easy if you keep cool, quite soft.

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead RP
Milne 28/Jan/11 TR RP

3rd go, probably never lead, fall looks horific.

Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Ben C ??/2011 -
Peter Holder 07/Nov/10 Lead RP

Bit of a 2 move wonder, still a good route. Friction was very good.

with Dave Green
Hidden 17/Oct/10 TR O/S
St0neMonkey 16/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Very scary indeed

peaches69 02/May/10 TR RP

looks like pockets in pictures but its all faith in friction (hands and feet) and a couple of pebbles

with joe
Rob1988 20/Mar/10 Lead RP
with Cal, Willl Wilson
C coldwell-storry 01/Mar/10 Lead β
with rob lay
dannyboy83 19/Oct/09 Lead O/S

First E6 onsight - big runout with crux being the last move. Not that hard but committing.

with Dad
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Oct/09 Lead RP

Shame I didn't man up and go for the onsight ...

mux 27/Sep/09 Lead RP
with Simon Frost ,
MorganPreece 18/Sep/09 Lead
with Jessy, Max
Maxim2023 11/Apr/09 2nd dnf

very hard!

with monty attwood
Skell 22/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Kelvin
figfour ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
miastacey ?/Mar/09 Lead RP

After falling off the top on lead (thanks for the great belay Bob) I found a way of doing it static for shorter people. Really good climb.

with Bob Smith
Hidden 04/Jan/09 TR RP
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead O/S
maybe_si 10/May/08 TR O/S
jamiev 05/May/08 TR dnf
Hidden 26/Apr/08 TR O/S
Ram MkiV 22/Apr/08 Lead β

Used beta as per the end of 'a gritstone year'. The moves aren't actually all that hard just felt quite unpredictable, tenuous and pretty bold. Really good though, much better route than I'd given it credit for in the past. Did have one fairly exciting moment when I got the top well enough to cause my right foot to pop but not well enough for it to be all over....

with Tommy M
whistler 12/Dec/07 TR dog

I do not agree with the description in the guide. you definitely want to toprope it before leading :) so easy to slip at the top !!!

with Dangerous Dave, Angus Clark, Luke
willackers 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Dan Walker, John Atkinson
joe c ook ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Nate
drysori ??/2007 TR

Straightforward on top rope, probably too insecure to fancy the lead with that fall though.

Ally Smith ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Quite steady for the lanky

bronsonite 30/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox ?/Mar/05 Solo RP
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Gus 26/Mar/03 Lead RP

I've held someone's rope who took the ride off the top of this, if you're belaying get ready to sprint!!!!

mark s ??/2003 -
Hidden ?/Sep/02 TR
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 TR O/S
simes303 ??/2002 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead RP
marcoleptic ??/2000 TR
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 43
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set