Rockfax Description
An intimidating layback up the imposing straight crack - fortunately it is easier than it looks, though the right wall is often a bit green and slippery. Threaded chockstones or large cams protect. Those heading Stateside might want to 'off-width' it just for the practice - a whole different ball-game at 5.9! © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1963

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Wide Cracks, Millstone HVS's, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, WideBoyz Crack School, UK road to wide crack mastery, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***.

Ewa Koc 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
D.Russell 20/Sep/16 2nd

Crack only jamming

with Adam
Hidden 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
FeargalR 18/Sep/16 TR O/S
SarahConnor 18/Sep/16 2nd
with Mark Connor
MNC 18/Sep/16 Lead
Borden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Held an off-width class for the professor, he was a natural

manbat 14/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Off-widthing. What an epic struggle! The first half was so slimey, I kept sliding downwards. After a good rest on the rope I got stuck in, and was making steady progress with a hand/fist stack and knee lock. Occasionally my knee got stuck, which was difficult to reverse, painful, and scary! On I went, and near the top there is a welcome rest ledge. Here the crack narrowed and My trusted Leavittation methods no longer worked - I couldn't fit my knee in the crack any more. After many attempts at simple thrutching, arm-barring and so on, I had to give up, only a couple of metres from the top. I was also hampered trying to climb past my own gear. ...But this is not the end of this tale of woe. I set up and ab (right from fence posts at the top of the crag) to clean the route, only to find my #6 cam horrifically stuck, so massively over-cammed it wouldn't move anywhere. I worked at it for ages, even resorting to trying to bash it out with a rock, before giving up. Two other fellas had a go too, with no success. Then Tom Randall rocked up, and I asked his advice (secretly hoping he'd just solo up it and deftly whip it out, but he didn't), before retreating, thoroughly beasted and deflated on all levels! But that is not the end of this sorry tale either! Two days later, on a rainy morning, I returned, armed with a collection of tools borrowed from the CC hut. Fully prepared to quarry my cam free, it luckily came out much more easily by just tapping the lobes gently with a hammer. Does this now qualify as an epic?

Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd
Andrew Barker 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris M
superseb 31/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Mike Thornewill
kingfionnbharr 10/Jul/16 Lead
Dr Toph 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Offwidth style, a good thrutch

with Emily
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 08/Apr/16 TR
with Ben Silvestre
FlavioL1989 17/Oct/15 Lead G/U

Stateside of course. Armbars, knee jams, butterfly stacks and hand fist stacks, better and safer than laybacking.

rajeshwarbisht 17/Oct/15 Lead dnf
with Flavio
soph 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Nice moves. There are wires just right of crack for top section. Felt safe with one big cam. Nice moves- didn't layback!

with Heliya
Hidden 19/Aug/15 2nd
kez1 ?/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with dale tomkinson, Andrew Boardman
Hidden 18/Jun/15 Solo O/S
tallginge 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Isaac
Nevil 07/Jun/15 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 07/Jun/15 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead dnf
althesin 24/May/15 Lead dog

Failed offwidth, fell while climbing down, pride hurt more than bum. Lay back easier -ish.

schristophersmith 24/May/15 2nd dog
deacondeacon 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Scott Anderson 13/May/15 2nd O/S

Lay backed will try the off width next time

with Gav
Hidden 13/May/15 Lead O/S
Sam Ash 11/May/15 2nd O/S
with Clement Hutin
gazfellows 25/Oct/14 Lead

Stateside baby !!!

with Billy
madasten 25/Oct/14 2nd
with Gaz
adam 24 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Climbed this as an offwidth, utterly desperate!

Stuart Johnston 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Climbed betting full involved with jams in the off width. Felt like E2!

cragsman9000 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First half of the climb is protected by two chockstone threads. Protected the top section with a number 11 Black Diamond Hexentric. Biggest cam we had was a number 3 Camalot, which was too small.

with Neil
bob_cbr 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
robgixer 13/Sep/14 2nd
onlyfoddington 07/Sep/14 2nd

Initially tried to offwidth it (as a challenge). My knee got temporarily stuck and I was making no progress. When I laybacked it I managed to get up it, though only just and made an awkward flop over onto the belay.

with Michael
pearson9596 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Mattlamb90 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Dirty route

with Ryan
spidey 05/Jul/14 2nd
with mat lamb
Giles Davis 21/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Backed off as wouldn't committ to the upper crack without a big cam.

with Dan Roberts
Giles Davis 21/Jun/14 2nd dog

Hmmm, couldn't even get this on second. Really tough.

with Dan Roberts
adi bryant 14/Jun/14 2nd

NICE layback..

with Sam
Hidden 10/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 10/Jun/14 AltLd
djones66 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Excellent fun. Did it on a dry day, wouldn't like to try it if at all damp. Got a good big hex on the top section, as well as the no 5 cams.

with Stve mc D
planetmarshall 17/May/14 Lead

Marvellous. One No. 4 cam (the big silver one) is sufficient.

with Chris Brooke
ChrisBrooke 17/May/14 2nd
farkas.time 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Aaron Comeault
Hidden 03/Sep/13 2nd O/S
treg 18/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Been wanting to try this for ages, but didn't get the result I hoped for. Backed off when I realised that even Pat's biggest cams weren't big enough and the only gear was going to be the low chockstone.

with Patrick
sputnik 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
mark4344 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Andreas
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
MikeLell 07/May/13 Lead dnf

Backed off after 2nd chockstone as didn't have big enough gear :(

chrisallan 04/May/13 2nd O/S
will_benfold 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
WillDoyle 20/Apr/13 2nd
victim of mathematics 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Physical! Was even forced to resort to laybacking at one point. Definitely felt like an HVS-worth of effort!

with Adam
adam carless 07/Oct/12 2nd O/S

quite brutal offwidthing, got a knee properly stuck at one point. Definitely worth looking left & right for other holds.

pie_eater_pete 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Peter Reynolds 06/Oct/12 -
Andy Clarke 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Good scary-ish fun. Straightforward laybacking, but was glad of the big cams. Worth HVS without, I would think.

with Tim
RM199 01/Sep/12 Lead rpt
psychomansam 01/Sep/12 Lead β

Lead on Rob's gear as it was in already. With our kit it was definitely HVS. Perhaps with a couple of Camalot size 5's it could be top end VS. No easier than David (HVS4c) though

Andrew Sloan 16/Aug/12 Lead dog

A sandbag at VS. The 3 E2s I did in Wales last week were less strenuous than this.Take number 4 camelots!

with Tim
Hidden 23/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
David Kay 22/Jul/12 2nd
with Jamie Sparks
greenclimb 12/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 05/May/12 2nd dog

Perhaps my most memorable route of the day. Got my knee well and truely jammed near the chockstone and had to stay focussed to free it without the aid of mtn rescue/fire brigade! Staying calm and cold got me out in the end :-) Next time, Ill stick to laybacking it, or work out a foot jam which keeps my knee on the outside of the crack.

with Si
harold walmsley 15/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Sunny and warm here. Part of wide crack program so tried to offwidth it but couldn't get knee into crack so had to resort to layback. Managed very insecure offwidth ascent of first half on top rope afterwards but still had to layback the top part

Jake Young 14/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jake
tsjx 11/Mar/12 2nd
with Neil
Hidden 10/Mar/12 2nd
tlmarjot 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Andy Lole, Ric Moat
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/11 Lead
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mark4344 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Only possible by moving my largest cam up the crack after each move. hard for VS.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 21/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 TR
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd RP
shaky2 01/Jun/11 Lead
with jamie
Graeme Hammond 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Amazing, worth 3 stars??, One of the best lay backs I've ever done, only found one chock stone right at the bottom! should I have looked harder?? Friend 4 only just fitted at the rest ledge, too busy enjoying the 'ride' for anything else.

Becky E 31/May/11 2nd
stuaart 21/May/11 2nd O/S

Just when you think it can't get worse... it does.

with Chris Burn
chris_B 21/May/11 Lead
chris_B 21/May/11 Lead

vs=very scary I think

tatz45 08/May/11 Lead O/S
bigdan050 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S

absolutely stinking route! read the guide book nxt time

with Tosh
wishicud climbHVS 11/Apr/11 2nd

ha ha, Dan sandbagged himself, try reading the guide book. easy laybacking route, hard non laybacking route. poorly protected.

Brown 03/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Henry
Peakpdr ??/2011 -
Tony Holdsworth 18/Sep/10 Lead dnf

First chockstone loose - didn't fancy it after finding that.

with Nick Mitchell
Andy Peak 1 01/Sep/10 Lead
with sam, pabage
pabbage 01/Sep/10 -
masa-alpin 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Terrific climb! Used the technique of (big) cam sliding while climbing up for the first time! This route well rivals Bond Street or even better!

with Andy Rail
SGD 25/Jul/10 2nd

bold if you haven't got massive cams

rob1 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Stu Day, martin haworth
Chris M Thomas 24/Jul/10 AltLd
with Luke
hellboundblr 03/Jul/10 2nd

Only gear was 3 chocks. John did about a 7m layback between chocks. Very scary.

john_ni 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

bit green on lower slab, feet skidded off going over bulge & fell onto 1st chockstone. Then picked myself up & led - just kept going till reached 3rd chockstone & bridge across. Rather bold, only gear = 3 chockstones; none of my cams big enough for that crack.

Dale ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S

good fun yosmite training. I off-width it, felt safe but was slow progress scwirming my way up. will cum back and lead b4 yosmite.

with rob
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Jun/10 Lead rpt
geddicakes 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 11/Jun/10 Lead
with Jane Rigby
JRigby ?/Jun/10 2nd
John Pickles 27/May/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
Pero 15/May/10 2nd
Pown 05/May/10 2nd
greenclimb 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
tonanf ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paul R
Chris Craggs 27/Sep/09 2nd

Maybe should be HVS 4c without a massive cam - VS 4c with.

with Colin Binks
dashitboarder 23/Aug/09 2nd

Very tough and commiting! Someone lent dad a size 5&6 cams!

with Dad
Tobes ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Matthallinan 14/May/08 Lead
with Nicky Winn
Pilch 08/May/08 2nd O/S

Graham led, not bad if you dont stop, big red cam makes it safe.

with Graham
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead dog
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dnf
RM199 ??/2008 2nd O/S
Grimbough 02/Nov/07 2nd
with Tim Steward
Hidden 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/07 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Cat Higgs
tom.ireson 01/Apr/07 TR O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 31/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Nicos 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 14/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Si dH 26/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Very good, HVS not VS

with Kane Chandler
TobyA 01/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Wonderful in a slightly mental way. A fine christening for my two new big cams. Rather green making some of the layback moves quite worrying.

Matthew Higginson 01/Jun/06 2nd

Glad I was seconding - it allowed me to layback the whole crack - excellent use of two big cams by Toby

with Toby Archer
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Adam Potter 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 -
ukb shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Stig 26/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Geraldine Lawless
Hidden 24/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
skygodley 13/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Roget 28/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Banjo
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
cragspud ??/1998 Lead O/S
BruceW ??/1997 Lead O/S
colin milton 06/May/95 Lead
with eric milton
astrecks ?/Jun/93 Lead β
with Mike S
Hidden ??/1993 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Pete Pozman 16/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Justin Shiels, Jack Rossindale
steve prior ?/Jul/88 Lead
with Rob W
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
John Marsland 13/Jun/87 2nd
with Mark
Hidden ??/1987 -
babymoac 15/Jun/86 Lead
with Rich Reeder
GordonHart ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Phil
andy gittins ??/1985 -
tapley 01/Jul/84 2nd
with Tony Charles
John Marsland 17/Jun/84 Lead
with Gill Peacegood, Dave Mould, Mark Cohen
Tom V ??/1984 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
mark-abz ??/1982 Lead
with ?
charlesmfrench ??/1982 Lead O/S
nbotting ??/1982 -
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
johnny20whales 13/Jun/81 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Ken Taylor 15/Aug/80 Lead O/S
with Steve Pogmore
Rob Davies 10/May/80 Lead

No big cams then of course, and I hate laybacks

with Martin Moran
Hidden 02/Mar/80 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Mark Kemball 25/Nov/79 2nd
Dave Musgrove 10/Jul/79 AltLd
duncan ?/May/79 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1979 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/78 Lead
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 03/Sep/75 -
with Tony Cuddy
paul59 11/May/75 2nd

good layback

with Geoff Read
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1975 Lead
rogerskews ??/1972 -
with Dane Atkins
tutbury ?/May/67 -
with Ben Bradshaw
mikej 29/Jun/66 2nd
with Frank Chester
mikej 29/Jun/66 Lead dnf

Spent ages excavating a chockstone to use as protection at the start of the layback. Not sure that it had ever been used before. However I could not quite commit to bridging out into the resting position before the chockstone protected finish.

with Frank Chester
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 54
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set