18m.

Rockfax Description
The magnificent scalloped arete is unprotected where it matters although gear can be fiddled in the half-height bore holes. Not for the faint of heart, because from the crux you will hit the ground, gear or not! © Rockfax

FA. Alan McHardy 1974

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, World Graded List, Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies., Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Millstone London roads and places (Not finished), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Iain McKenzie 18 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think you would hit the ground if you placed a runner in the very bottom pocket at starting height to take mose of the slack in if you were to come off. Fantastic line though!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't think you would hit the ground if you placed a runner in the very bottom pocket at starting height to take mose of the slack in if you were to come off. Fantastic line though!!!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
morganator 22 May Lead β Thought it was an onsight but apparently toproped it 25 years ago. Inspired by being lent a red and green Totem- fit the shotholes perfectly. Great climbing, quintessential gritstone
with Crispin Waddy
Thought it was an onsight but apparently toproped it 25 years ago. Inspired by being lent a red and green Totem- fit the shotholes perfectly. Great climbing, quintessential gritstone
with Crispin Waddy
steveb2006 26 Sep, 2017 TR dog Did it twice and fell off last rockover move both times. Maybe I'll leave the solo for a while!
Did it twice and fell off last rockover move both times. Maybe I'll leave the solo for a while!
Tom Livingstone 7 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S
with TS
with TS
Andy Moles 2 Nov, 2016 Solo RP Beautiful climbing, every move is satisfying. No regrets about shunting it first, I'm too faint of heart to enjoy that sort of caper on-sight.
Beautiful climbing, every move is satisfying. No regrets about shunting it first, I'm too faint of heart to enjoy that sort of caper on-sight.
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
Mike Goldthorp ?Nov, 2015 Solo O/S Flipping brilliant!
with Rob Greenwood, Calum Musket
Flipping brilliant!
with Rob Greenwood, Calum Musket
phil64 14 Oct, 2015 2nd rpt
with matt dean
with matt dean
Flavio 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Spent the morning psyching up and practiced placing two tricams one handed which on the climb turned out to be useless, Raj could have eaten his sandwich after all. No pads, first E5!
Spent the morning psyching up and practiced placing two tricams one handed which on the climb turned out to be useless, Raj could have eaten his sandwich after all. No pads, first E5!
Ram MkiV 9 Jun, 2015 Solo O/S
BenjaminLinneRyn 30 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
Louishmouis 29 Apr, 2015 Lead β
with Dave
with Dave
NDD 26 Apr, 2015 Solo O/S
with Howard
with Howard
malx ?Apr, 2015 Solo O/S been waiting to pluck up the courage for ages. amazing!
been waiting to pluck up the courage for ages. amazing!
Hidden 15 Mar, 2015 TR RP
Jacob Phillips ??, 2015 Lead
spidermonkey09 13 Jun, 2014 Lead G/U Ground up, one play a few weeks ago with a pad. Amazing climbing. Last few metres are a definite no fall zone!
with Jack93
Ground up, one play a few weeks ago with a pad. Amazing climbing. Last few metres are a definite no fall zone!
with Jack93
Dr Toph 12 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S Felt harder than I expected. With no chalk to show the way, it was a bit puzzling at times and momentarily slappy. But then, Im shit at aretes.
Felt harder than I expected. With no chalk to show the way, it was a bit puzzling at times and momentarily slappy. But then, Im shit at aretes.
hamer89 23 Mar, 2014 Lead RP One of the best lines out there. Always scared me this. Felt good today though
One of the best lines out there. Always scared me this. Felt good today though
Hidden ??, 2014 2nd
mike mo ??, 2014 2nd
nimajneb 16 Nov, 2013 Lead β
dannyboy83 16 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Terrifyingly easy! Too much time to think about the situation so hardest part was controlling the adrenaline. Great SUMC support!
Terrifyingly easy! Too much time to think about the situation so hardest part was controlling the adrenaline. Great SUMC support!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
with Si
with Si
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 2nd β
henry peter jenkins 5 May, 2013 Lead β nice climbing, not to hard but committing. got a nut rapped back on itself for protection in the bore holes. saw a chap do it before i did, so not really an onsight.
with spacecadetjake, robbie jenkins
nice climbing, not to hard but committing. got a nut rapped back on itself for protection in the bore holes. saw a chap do it before i did, so not really an onsight.
with spacecadetjake, robbie jenkins
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 5 May, 2013 Lead RP Head pointed it as I was a wuss. Great climbing!
Head pointed it as I was a wuss. Great climbing!
nimajneb ?May, 2013 Lead
Hidden 17 Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 TR O/S
ejected ??, 2013 -
peaker16 18 Sep, 2012 TR
Alex Munnery 16 Sep, 2012 TR dog
with Alan Caley
with Alan Caley
Keendan 15 Sep, 2012 Solo rpt No pads this time to claim the full grade Video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dA8BegjLR2I&feature=youtu.be
No pads this time to claim the full grade Video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dA8BegjLR2I&feature=youtu.be
Keendan 1 Sep, 2012 Sent β With Two pads. No one else wanted to climb so they said I should solo something. I set out just to "have a look" and kept going. 2 crux rockovers were fairly steady with good rests to think about the moves. The 3rd rockover felt pretty dodgy but at least there was a nice surprise on the right...
With Two pads. No one else wanted to climb so they said I should solo something. I set out just to "have a look" and kept going. 2 crux rockovers were fairly steady with good rests to think about the moves. The 3rd rockover felt pretty dodgy but at least there was a nice surprise on the right...
DaveFidler 11 Jul, 2012 TR O/S
with Adam Harrison
with Adam Harrison
MicheleC 30 Mar, 2012 Solo O/S scary
scary
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 Solo RP
Nick Sillem ??, 2012 Solo O/S
s.c.white 23 Oct, 2011 TR dog
with mike thomas
with mike thomas
Hidden 23 Oct, 2011 TR O/S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2011 TR
Hidden 29 Jul, 2011 TR O/S
alaan 16 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S Quite terrifying.
Quite terrifying.
Lewis Andrew 15 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S SCARY but bbrilliant :)
SCARY but bbrilliant :)
Somerset swede basher 8 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with George Taylor
with George Taylor
jacobjacob 11 Mar, 2011 Solo β in a chain of five ascents, still felt quite lonely on the top moves...
in a chain of five ascents, still felt quite lonely on the top moves...
harvie ?Mar, 2011 Solo O/S
pipof747 6 Oct, 2010 Solo RP
Hidden 4 Oct, 2010 TR
Dave Heaton 4 Oct, 2010 TR
akhughes 3 Sep, 2010 Solo O/S
dan gibson 17 Jul, 2010 Solo O/S Calm, composed and scared all at the same time.
Calm, composed and scared all at the same time.
Hidden 17 Jul, 2010 TR β
Hidden 17 Jul, 2010 TR
Andrew Barker 13 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Fantastically atmospheric climbing. I found getting to the shot holes harder than the last couple of moves even though they were more precarious and far more dangerous. No pads.
with Tom Ramsden
Fantastically atmospheric climbing. I found getting to the shot holes harder than the last couple of moves even though they were more precarious and far more dangerous. No pads.
with Tom Ramsden
Hidden 9 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 Lead RP
Ewano ??, 2010 TR on-sight top rope...not that that means much :P
on-sight top rope...not that that means much :P
thrutch 4 Oct, 2009 -
willoates 14 Sep, 2009 Solo RP http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYxVjr6vATs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYxVjr6vATs
Hidden 6 Sep, 2009 2nd
chris m fisher 6 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Beautiful route, amazing experience.
with Pete
Beautiful route, amazing experience.
with Pete
Hidden 3 Sep, 2009 Lead
JulesV ??, 2009 Lead O/S
phil64 ??, 2008 Lead O/S Blue tricam at 1/2 height inspired confidence....utterly brilliant
Blue tricam at 1/2 height inspired confidence....utterly brilliant
Hidden 11 Dec, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S
MYSSAK 15 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S
Toby Dunn 22 May, 2007 Solo
Hidden 12 Jul, 2006 TR dog
Hidden 12 Jul, 2006 TR β
lukehunt ?Jul, 2006 Lead RP
with Ian Jackson
with Ian Jackson
Gus 8 May, 2005 Lead O/S andi went "grey" from belaying fear
andi went "grey" from belaying fear
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 -
BruceW ??, 2004 TR O/S
with Al D.
with Al D.
Jus ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?Jun, 2002 TR Shunt on rope attached a long way back - lots of rope stretch, though I can't remember if I fell off first go
Shunt on rope attached a long way back - lots of rope stretch, though I can't remember if I fell off first go
Roget ??, 2002 Lead O/S alien in shot hole
with baccy, jon
alien in shot hole
with baccy, jon
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead O/S
with ben winston
with ben winston
sadams 30 Mar, 2000 Solo rpt
with unseconded
with unseconded
tlr ??, 2000 2nd
with Dave
with Dave
DavidEvans 30 Apr, 1999 Lead O/S Had belayed Ol and co previous to ascent. No top rope practice. Bought alien and tricam. Put sling on top "spike"! It's hard, but not that hard, I've certainly climbed alot harder.
with Oliver Forrest, Adam Ellwood
Had belayed Ol and co previous to ascent. No top rope practice. Bought alien and tricam. Put sling on top "spike"! It's hard, but not that hard, I've certainly climbed alot harder.
with Oliver Forrest, Adam Ellwood
Adam Ellwood 30 Apr, 1999 Lead
Phil West 30 Aug, 1998 TR O/S
with The Luton Loonies
with The Luton Loonies
Mike Owen 10 May, 1998 Solo RP Had top roped it years ago but no pre practice on this day.
with Elaine Owen
Had top roped it years ago but no pre practice on this day.
with Elaine Owen
simes303 ??, 1998 Lead O/S With a bent-over large wire in the shothole. Not hard. No cheating pads.
With a bent-over large wire in the shothole. Not hard. No cheating pads.
Chad123 ??, 1998 2nd O/S Definitely a lot easier ( more like an E2) to second, again glad I wasn't leading....
with Will
Definitely a lot easier ( more like an E2) to second, again glad I wasn't leading....
with Will
jfletcher 26 Oct, 1997 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 1 Sep, 1996 Solo rpt
with tim russon
with tim russon
Davros the Psyched ??, 1996 Solo O/S
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S no pads
no pads
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14 Sep, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 2nd
mattnuttall 28 Apr, 1994 Solo rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22 Mar, 1994 Lead O/S superb
with Nick Ashton
superb
with Nick Ashton
Hidden ??, 1993 TR O/S
mattnuttall 25 Jul, 1992 Solo O/S wow... needs a cool head... note no pads under this in 1992.. perhaps a beer towel!
wow... needs a cool head... note no pads under this in 1992.. perhaps a beer towel!
samt 7 Jul, 1992 TR Felt easy.. should have just gone for it!
with Scott Willoughby
Felt easy.. should have just gone for it!
with Scott Willoughby
mik1miller ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
with elliot blaylock
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1988 Solo O/S felt E6 6a onsight
with Andy Kirk
felt E6 6a onsight
with Andy Kirk
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Seb Grieve 18 Aug, 1986 Solo O/S Great E5 solo. Accidentally got committed whilst bouldering out the start. Top was not as bad as I thought since you get to do a 2 - 3 moves then stop and work out the next bit.
with Peter Dalton
Great E5 solo. Accidentally got committed whilst bouldering out the start. Top was not as bad as I thought since you get to do a 2 - 3 moves then stop and work out the next bit.
with Peter Dalton
Jim Fowler ?Jul, 1986 Solo
AB1965 10 Jun, 1986 Lead
julesmckim ??, 1986 Lead
with paul jenkinson, Guy Howard
with paul jenkinson, Guy Howard
GordonHart ??, 1986 TR O/S
Hidden ??, 1985 Solo
Hidden 7 Oct, 1984 TR
Steve Lewis 27 May, 1984 TR
Hidden ??, 1984 Solo RP
Mark Kemball 8 May, 1982 TR Tried to on sight lead it, bottled out of the last move.
Tried to on sight lead it, bottled out of the last move.
mark-abz 26 Apr, 1982 TR Lead top pitch 14-Sep-82 with Andy W
with Andy W
Lead top pitch 14-Sep-82 with Andy W
with Andy W
Ian Jones ??, 1982 2nd
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Hidden ??, 1982 TR
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Al Evans ??, 1976 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??, 1976 -
Hidden ??, 1973 -
Hidden ??, 1950 Lead RP
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 40
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set