Rockfax Description
The superb blank groove can be approached from a short way up Edge Lane by a tricky traverse (5c), a pile of stones or a f6C problem. The crucial upper section has an old cemented peg runner in the right wall, between the two cruxes. Finish using a tiny chipped hold. From the terrace continue up the easy corner, or abseil carefully from the chipped spike. © Rockfax

FA. Tom Proctor 1969. F Winter A. Tom Proctor early 1970s

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, World Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, 50 of the Best, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

ashtond6 19/Jul/16 TR

quick feel around of the holds and gear

Hidden ??/2016 2nd
phil64 14/Oct/15 Lead RP

Amazing, necky crux to peg, can be backed up with grey Camelot, then superb moves to top....Ace

with matt dean
Flavio 15/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Got to the first crux and stood a long time contemplating, tested the move and almost fell off when reversing. Had plans for the next day so down climbed.

Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Mar/15 TR β
dannyboy83 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Lovely and clean at the moment! Nails start.

akhughes 15/Jun/14 Solo β

6b start. Abseiled and cleaned. Couple of damp holds but avoidable/manageable. Drizzle made the dropout damp and extremely exciting!!!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/13 Lead β

Abbed down to check the peg beforehand. Considering its age it looked ok, didn't realise it was concreted in either! Could be backed up well with a large Alien.

with Katy Whittaker
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd dog
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead rpt

boulder problem start

Hidden ??/2012 TR O/S
harvie 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with "mad" max the guy from the guide
Hidden 17/Jul/10 TR O/S
JulesV 07/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Ewano ??/2010 TR
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Apr/05 2nd rpt
with Nic Sellers
Davros the Psyched ??/2004 Lead O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jun/02 TR dog

6b starting moves omitted with a quick heave on TR

tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with nick warren
Phil West 30/Aug/98 TR O/S
with The Luton Loonies
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Sep/96 Solo rpt
with tim russon
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
mattnuttall 28/Apr/94 Lead rpt
with Adrian Berry
Alan James - UKC and UKH 22/Jul/93 Lead
with Fliss Butler
mattnuttall 13/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
AlexRenshaw 26/May/90 Lead
with John Walters
surfbish ?/Apr/88 Lead O/S
Seb Grieve 12/Jul/87 Lead O/S

Tried the start many times before succeeding. It was tricky at E4. Now see it is given E5 which is more like it since the top part was not too easy. Would be very serious without the peg. I combined it with Great Arete to make a super long single pitch route.

AB1965 10/Jun/86 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1985 Lead

Top roped it once, then led it. The following year (and a few after) led it without the practice.

with Graham Parkes
Mike Owen 14/Oct/84 2nd β
with Paul Simkiss, Tom Jones
Hidden 07/Oct/84 TR
Mark Kemball 03/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Steve Finch, Bill McKee
mark-abz 26/Apr/82 TR
with Andy W
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
with Derek Hersey
Al Evans ??/1976 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set