34m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with two impressive and contrasting pitches.
1) E2 5b, 18m. Layback up the huge flake to a tiny ledge. The upper part is steeper and leads to a massive terrace. Escape or:
2) E3 5b, 16m. The upper arete is delicate and effectively unprotected. The ancient golo/bolt should not be trusted! © Rockfax

FAA. Dave Johnson 1957. FFA. Al Evans 1965

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Millstone London roads and places (Not finished), Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Sophie Nunn 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S

In one pitch.

with Ian L
Alice Thompson 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 20/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/17 Lead
ferdia 29/Jul/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/May/17 2nd dog
Mr Wild 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt
James Smith 08/Apr/17 AltLd

Bailed along the ledge at the last move. I'm sure it wasn't so hard but just couldn't justify going for it on one questionable micro cam.... Beautiful route but pretty serious second pitch.

with pippa, rich
Hidden 08/Apr/17 2nd dog
Pippa 08/Apr/17 AltLd

P1, second was beautiful and terrifying

Ed Babs 24/Mar/17 Lead dnf

I don't know why the wet green wall didn't put me off from the ground. Smears soaking so aborted after a few falls. Great climbing though.

Matt Cooke 06/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Dale Comley 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
morganator 03/Aug/16 Lead dog

Fluffed the initial groove- green for the feet. First pitch only

Jacob Bloodworth 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S


efrance24234 03/Aug/16 2nd O/S
nicola parkin 03/Aug/16 2nd dog
with jon
ashtond6 19/Jul/16 Lead rpt

felt steady today

ashtond6 17/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Stupid slip in furnace conditions resulted a decking

James Oswald 15/May/16 Lead RP

After backing off it a while ago. Hard at the top! Just did P1

benkelsey 15/May/16 AltLd rpt

Didn't fall off the long last move this time!

with James Oswald
ferdia 03/Apr/16 2nd
Andy Moles 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Both pitches. Gear on P2 seemed just adequate if you tie off the golo and have the right piece above but I wouldn't want to make any assurances.

with Ferdia
ABCD ??/2016 Lead rpt
phil64 14/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Strong arm climbing, then bold...brilliant

with matt dean
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Flavio 17/May/15 2nd O/S

Leading laybacks with Mike rarely go down well..

MichaelGallimore 17/May/15 Lead dog

Tried to run pitches 1 and 2 together to make a super long pitch but had a top rope lowered down to me 2m from the top when I bottled it. Led pitch 1 clean. Ropes wouldn't have been long enough to make a belay anyway so lucky Andy was up there really.

with Flavio
Simon Davis 10/May/15 2nd


with Tim P
WB 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

Mark was being a chopper, so had to remind him to pay attention a couple of times... Tip: Don't do the route in the morning shade the day after rain. Top pitch is easy if you go the right way ;-)

markalmack 04/May/15 AltLd O/S

First time ive belayed someone who started crying my name in fear! Lead p2. thought this was bloody hard for e2. There is a hidden peg and cam slot round the lhs of the arete on the 2nd pitch just below the ledge after the bolt. Climbed on the right cos waa too scared to climb the easy way on the left! Exciting.

Louishmouis 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Dave
Wood for Trees 21/Apr/15 2nd O/S

first pitch desperate with crap feet, second pitch scary as hell.

with bob
benkelsey 03/Oct/14 2nd dog

foot slip on the green on the last move on p1. looked like a scary arete, well lead by Nick

Nick1812P 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

lead in one pitch, top part felt at least E3, going on E4 with the fall potential.

with Dan, Ben
Graeme Hammond 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Previously failed to lead first pitch. Two brilliant pitches and might be better than Regent Street! Led both. I didn't have much chance to think about the BIG fall potential as trying to get a move on so Richard didn't get eaten to badly by midges. Caution: some loose rock right at the top just where you don't want to fall off!

Hannes B 29/Aug/14 Lead O/S

p1 only, then rain

with John Br
dannyboy83 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard and scary

with John Gallant
Leo Woodhead 03/Aug/14 2nd β

Going to have to come back for the lead on this! 2 contrasting sections, great value, awesome route!

with Jim Rogers
eel 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Joe, Ian
Coel Hellier 02/Jul/14 Lead dog

Dogged pitch 1, seconded pitch 2.

with Pat
deacondeacon 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Onsighted the first pitch. Climbed through into the second pitch, past the bolt but didn't have anything left to fit in the last gear placement so bottled the last layback.

uphillnow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Jus 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Both pitches, lead the first, seconded the other.

Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd dog
Tony Holdsworth 04/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Just the first pitch.

with Peter Harris
Simon Davis ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Tim P
will9911 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 25/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Fell from last move wrong handed

Andy Peak 1 25/Jun/13 2nd

Second of shame to retrev gear:-(

Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

The E3 finish, very scary! None of my gear fitted in the slot for the final moves. You need a cam narrower than a WC Zero!

ben.meakin 16/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
Kevster 05/May/13 Lead O/S

First pitch went 2nd go, top pitch clean OS (Narrow head cams useful) This is not a gift for the grade.

john lynch 03/May/13 2nd O/S

the story of the lost master cam!

with Lewis Andrew
JackSnowden 02/Apr/13 2nd
ejected ??/2013 -
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
Hidden 12/Jul/12 2nd
Apharri 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only

with Dave Fiddler
DaveFidler 11/Jul/12 2nd dog

dropped the last move. P1 only

Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Matt Cooke 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd β
belay bunny turned bad 24/Sep/11 Lead dog
with loundsy
robin_hackney 10/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Tough route. Glad I was on a top rope for the top pitch. Moves felt OK, but exposed & run out on the lead!

with Si
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
steve_yo 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with smacks
tonanf ?/Aug/11 AltLd

terrifying, bottled it and put side runners in.

with Pep
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Butch first pitch followed by a scary second pitch (which I strung together). Pretty much all you could want in a grit route.

with Wormatron
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd β
w.pettet-smith 22/Apr/11 Lead

fookin nails! polished footholds, greasy locks, semi blind placements and 5b on nearly every move. great though. slipped off low down, so got it second go, had to really dig in at top though! let out gutteral ug while popping a bit for final jug. most undignified.

with wiggy
willoates 21/Apr/11 Lead β

Minimal beta. saw Jim do it, but didn't pay attention. good route... be wide!

with Jim Burton
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
DJayB 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/11 2nd β
Shauna 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Jules
JulesV 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden ??/2011 Solo O/S
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
akhughes 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S

first pitch is a good E2 and the top pitch is worth E3 in its own right.

Hidden 21/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Did the 1st onsight, quite hard. 2nd pitch spooky.

with Ivan
Paul ablitt 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt

first only

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
CharlieMack 05/Oct/09 2nd O/S

i had to dyno 3 times and had a heel hook above head-height! just because im short! still managed it clean tho... just! awesome route!

rikbattye 05/Oct/09 Lead
Brown 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Henry
Madblock 16/Jul/09 Lead β

Preplaced Gear

with Charles
Tony Holdsworth 03/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Me too weak - Pete slipped and took skin of little finger - ab for gear. RSPCA

with Peter Harris
Hidden 21/May/09 Lead dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 10/May/09 AltLd rpt
with Eric Hildrew
Boy ?/Apr/09 -

Led pitch 1, Nige led pitch 2

with Nige Kershaw
eastley ??/2009 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only, it was a bit wet.

Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead dog
Paul ablitt 21/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Sarah
Paul ablitt 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Sarah
Paz 16/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Seconded the first by the skin of my teeth, then lead the second, eventually by cutting loose and slapping twice as was necessary

with TS, SC
Tim Steward 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with James Parrot
dan gibson 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with AJ
Ian Parnell 04/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Adrian Berry
alaan 23/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Took the second pitch - quite interesting!

with Mat
mattyork2 23/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

Had this climb on the wishlist for some time because it called out to me. An absolutely bomber friend O placement also made me very happy! Great top pitch also but glad wasn't leading. Fantastic line! 3 stars

lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Docent 22/Sep/07 2nd

1 pitch

with juras
Toby Dunn 22/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Tom Randall
Pythonist 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Pitch 1, but only after holding Ted fall a total of twice the height of the route over 4 attempts!

with Teddington
Hidden ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
kingholmesy ??/2007 2nd dog

Bottom pitch only

with random!
TomHaigh ??/2007 2nd dog
feilx 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Dan Eastley & Seb
Hidden 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Holly R ??/2006 2nd
with Jorg
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
ukb & bmc shark 01/Sep/04 Lead

1 fall. pitch 1 only

with Jon Winter
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe Brown
Hidden ??/2002 -
Roget ??/2001 Lead rpt

Led with E1 left variant on first pitch, this time found the top pitch terrifying.

with jon
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
John Marsland 12/Aug/00 Lead dog
with Allen Newby
Hidden 01/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/00 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/99 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun/99 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/99 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ??/1999 -
Hidden 10/May/98 AltLd O/S
Obi-Wan is lost... 15/Feb/98 2nd
with Calum
Gambit ??/1997 Lead RP

Very little recolection of this but told we definately did it, need to go beac again and do it to claim a retroflash!!

with Barney
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/96 TR

Top pitch only

with Bill G
nacnud 12/May/96 2nd
phardman 04/Nov/95 Lead
Hidden 07/May/95 2nd
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
Dave Musgrove 02/Sep/94 AltLd
with David
Martin Bennett 10/Oct/93 -
with MD, MT
Hidden 21/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/93 2nd
Hidden 03/Aug/93 Lead
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with JOwen
ste_d 12/May/93 Lead O/S
with mik
Roget 08/May/93 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
mik1miller ??/1992 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
craig d ??/1992 -
crossleysm ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/90 2nd
Hidden ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/89 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Aug/89 2nd dnf

P1 only

with Mick Moss, Brian Hannon
Billg ??/1989 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden ??/1989 -
Rich Kirby ??/1989 AltLd
with The General (P.Henderson)
Chris Ellis 03/Jul/88 2nd
with Nige Shaw
Neil R 13/Jun/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/88 Lead dog
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
GordonHart ??/1987 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ??/1987 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 13/Sep/86 Lead
with Mike Arnold
Steve Crowe 06/Sep/86 2nd O/S
John Marsland 12/Oct/85 Lead
with Dave Mould
Hidden 28/Sep/85 Lead dog
Mike Owen 18/Sep/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
amstel 28/Aug/85 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/Aug/85 Lead

Led pitch 1 15-6-1985

ukb & bmc shark 23/Jun/85 AltLd

Thought I was going to die on the top arete

with Phill Dickens
Martin Haworth ??/1985 Lead O/S
with tim wright
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 -
Hidden 07/Oct/84 Lead
Neil McA 01/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Spike
Dave Turnbull ?/Sep/84 Lead
Dave Musgrove 19/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
John Marsland 17/Jun/84 Lead

probably only the 1st pitch on this date

with Dave Mould
Dave Turnbull 25/Apr/84 Lead O/S
with Ian Bocock
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
charlesmfrench 10/Oct/82 Lead O/S

Did only 1st pitch.

Hidden 09/Oct/82 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/82 -
mark-abz 14/Sep/82 Lead
with Andy W
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1982 Lead
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
nbotting ??/1982 -
The Reaper 29/Jul/81 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 Only

Hidden ?/Apr/81 Lead O/S
Neil McA 18/May/80 2nd
TonyF 10/May/80 Lead dog
with Dar, Steve Andrews, Tony Cox
KRB 16/Apr/80 Lead O/S

Also soloed the leftwrads variation a month later

with Mike Bridges
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/79 -
Dave Musgrove 10/Jul/79 AltLd
duncan ?/May/79 Lead O/S

P1 via mantelshelves - not E2

Hidden 19/Jun/78 Lead
Mark Kemball 24/Apr/77 Lead
with Paul Clark
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/1977 AltLd
with Al Baker
Al Evans ??/1976 -
34 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set