Rockfax Description
The middle finger-crack leads to the cave - worthwhile at solid HVS 5b. A tricky traverse left and technical wall gain a ledge on the arete. Trend rightwards more easily to finish. © Rockfax

FFA. Steve Bancroft 1976

Ticklists: Monopoly.

mattlyons 07/Sep Lead O/S
with Josh Willson
Mike_Hayes 20/Aug Lead
James Oakes 20/Jul Lead O/S
with Henry Francis
Hidden 04/Jul Lead rpt
soph 21/May Lead rpt
with Rachel Hoyland
andork123 07/May 2nd dnf
charley 07/May Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden 01/May Lead O/S
FelixJT 01/May Lead dog

pulled on gear to clip it half way through the traverse out left.

WilliamRupp 01/May 2nd
with felix
Neil McA 07/Apr Lead rpt
with scott
Hidden 24/Mar Lead rpt
morganator 12/Mar 2nd rpt
with Stan Halstead
tom russell 20/Jan Lead O/S
with mike
Mike505 14/Oct/16 Lead dog
The Grist 24/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Coel Hellier
Neilaw 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Neil W
ferdia 21/Sep/16 2nd
with Ben Silvestre
Mike W 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with chris
DavidR 29/Aug/16 2nd rpt
stuartf 23/Jul/16 2nd dnf

Multiple falls getting out the cave then couldn't do the move off the ledge up the finger crack. Thought initial crack was harder then embankment 3.

Tubs 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Alan D, Stuart
john lynch 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 17/May/16 Lead
DHHZ 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Rose
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
KeenClimber 17/Apr/16 Lead dnf

HVS first pitch

morganator 13/Apr/16 Solo rpt

Exciting! Not too hard once you work using the L hand arête

ferdia 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 03/Apr/16 2nd
with Ferdia
phil64 01/Apr/16 2nd

tricky top wall

with Andy Bowman
ndraper1 16/Nov/15 2nd O/S

sam showed the jammy way (pffft!), face climbing was awesome

with Sam
Hidden 16/Nov/15 Lead O/S
soph 01/Oct/15 Lead rpt

In one pitch, started up left crack, super hot!

with Fabrizio Della Rossa, Heliya
David Kay 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S

The lower crack is fairly stiff at HVS 5b. Got some good gear in at the left end of the cave before teetering out into the unknown. Got half way through the crux sequence and decided I didn't want to go much further without placing some gear. I faffed around for ages on the poor finger locks placing a nut and getting quite pumped in the process. I then instantly regretted this when I made one more move up into a much better balanced position. Realising how pumped I was I spent a while here shaking out on the half rest before making one more easy move to the ledge and hands off rest. The climbing was great but an epic faff for me today.

Hidden 31/Jul/15 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 16/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Via Oxford Street this time

max_chan 16/Jul/15 2nd O/S

P2 only

Mark Stevenson 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark S, Tor
Vnockles 11/Jul/15 2nd

Crack was really hard work the section above after the cave was quite fun.

with Ian Faulkner
bigdrew 27/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Eve
eel 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Andy J
tim newton 21/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Sam hamer
MYox 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led the 5c pitch (first E2?). Found the step out worrying, but relatively mild. The crux for me was pulling on the finger jam through the crack - still not sure of my technique. Good, but not great, climbing.

with Trevor
Dibdawg 15/May/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
Scott Anderson 13/May/15 -

On the second and found it hard but got it clean. The lead would be another matter

with Gav
Hidden 13/May/15 Lead
afern 10/May/15 2nd O/S
phil64 10/May/15 Lead rpt

Great jamming on lower followed by tricky pull out on top wall

with mike cox
Misha 02/May/15 Lead O/S

Challenging with cold hands! Sheltered from the wind but below 10 degrees so had to keep trying to warm the fingers up on the HVS section. That has two hard bits and seemed pretty hard for HVS, didn't climb it very well, limited finger functionality is my excuse! According to the guide book, I did it to the cave in 2007 but couldn't remember anything about it. Great exposed section going out of the cave, short but exciting and packs some good moves in. I dropped down to foot traverse a little below the level of the cave, then moved up into the thin finger crack. Struggled to fiddle in a couple of micros from a tricky position then made a fairly straightforward move up and got a good hold, typical! Andrew seconded in the drizzle and it got worse after that so we ran away to Chee Dale.

with Andy W
Andrew Wilson 02/May/15 2nd O/S
with Misha
mapperley samurai 22/Mar/15 2nd
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar/15 Lead

Fantastic never get tired of this:-)

with Kevin Rasin
Hidden 20/Mar/15 Lead rpt
robertmctague 07/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Pitch 1, HVS.

soph 18/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Karel Snoek
M_Robinson 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Robinson
rurp 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Hard work on crack but solid jams. Traverse quite scary out left, got a bit shaky. Final moves on vs great fun and relief!

with bill farmer
onlyfoddington 07/Sep/14 2nd dog

My real mission was to get to the cave in one - which I managed although I found it tough and tiring (first successful 5b jamming pitch?). With some handy beta from Michael I eventually made a reasonable attempt and barn-doored after getting the other side of the diagonal crack. I was very pleased that I managed it relatively smoothly the second try. Did not finish up the arete.

with Michael
pearson9596 07/Sep/14 Lead dog
dannyboy83 27/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Lena, Ben Corbey, Sky
lena.drapella 27/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Sky, dannyboy
Hannes B 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Phil
French Erick 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Alex Heude
Brannock 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tried this before but wimped out at the cave, this time all the way to the top, good route.

spidey 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with mat lamb
Mattlamb90 05/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Good effort ry

with Ryan
jonleighton 28/Jun/14 2nd dnf

P1 only

Serena Lambre 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
with mrteale
MrBIond 21/Jun/14 2nd
tebs 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Fierce warm-up. Took the Oxford Street crack to gain the cave and crux. Good gear on the crux but maybe a bit spaced, great climbing though.

with Ben O Connor
mrteale 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
deacondeacon 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Poor choice for a warm up route, hot, greasy and midge but it went ok. couldn't place gear at the crux as I was greasing off so had to crack on to the arete. Didn't feel like it deserved two stars to me but perhaps in nicer conditions it'll feel better. Ran away from the midgies for a solo/boulder on Owler Tor.

Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/14 AltLd β
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
The Grist 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
alp79 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

Found this v hard work, lots of falls and rests

PaulTanton 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led this in one pitch. Quite tough for the grade. Getting established on the top crack is a tricky sequence and then there's a balancey move up the wall. Hard for E2 I'd say.

duncan 25/May/14 Lead rpt
with Hugo Glover
phil64 16/May/14 2nd
with dave
Hidden 03/May/14 TR
WillDoyle 17/Apr/14 Lead
tim newton 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with patrick green
Hidden 13/Apr/14 TR
irish paul 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
nai 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Mark
uphillnow ??/2014 -
Brown ??/2014 Lead
with James T
Matthew Ferrier 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Led both pitches but brought Alex up to the cave after the first. 2nd pitch is outrageously good, just ignore the slight spoiling by the ledge on the arete.

Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Brannock 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S

P1 only, really good, didint fancy second pitch.

cobweb 05/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch but freaked out seeing rusty peg to protect hard bit. Roger found bomber nut pro ! Made all the difference! Note to self - keep calm and use your eyes!

with Roger Waterworth
James Oswald 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S

After Masa struggled to reach the holds on Oxford St (hence did 1st pitch of Oxford St). The climbing on the crack was tough.

with Masa
masa-alpin 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

P2 only, after (HVS) crack of Oxford Street.

with James O
WillDoyle 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Mike
Tony Holdsworth 04/Jul/13 2nd dog

Pulled on gear twice.

with Peter Harris
WB 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Guy
JakeWShaw 10/Apr/13 2nd dog

Kept pumping out at the top of the crack I need more stamina! Fell again at the crux as it was a tad damp!

benkelsey 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S

as a warm up. dirty cave, wet crucial holds. sorry to jake pulling him about on the second.

Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
John Gale ??/2013 2nd β
jshields 27/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Helen Gibson 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

1st pitch only

with Paul
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd rpt
Dizz 14/Oct/12 2nd

Harder than it looks!

with Ali, David B
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Andy
DavidR 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
Graeme Hammond 18/Jul/12 Lead rpt

In one pitch, previously fell off clipping the gear after the crux 11/jul/2012

with Jim
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead
Andy Peak 1 09/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead rpt
tuftynick 06/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with miles gibson
Hidden 20/May/12 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Apr/12 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Mick Ryan
Howard Lawledge ?/Apr/12 Lead
Shauna 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Jules
JulesV 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/12 Lead O/S
mwatson 21/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with johnny
JRae 19/Feb/12 Lead
pmurdy 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Jonny Reay
drcorbasisgod ?/Jan/12 Lead dnf

Started snowing when I got to the cave!!

with Marc Weisner
Mr Wild ??/2012 2nd
with Greg
maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/11 2nd rpt
Si dH 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Placing a nut in that thin crack was a bit intense.

with Olly
JBO 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
bigdrew 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch 07/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
richiebongo ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
GarethHall 11/Sep/11 Lead RP
rd20 11/Sep/11 2nd dog

Managed first HVS section cleanly this time, but like the Robert the Bruce's spider needed six attempts at moving from the cave to the arete

rd20 10/Sep/11 2nd dog

Came off first HVS section, then came off first attempt at coming out of the cave

Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 20/Aug/11 2nd dog

Hadn't slept.

Coel Hellier 19/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
tonanf ?/Aug/11 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jamiev 26/Jun/11 2nd β

Very good.

with Audrey Seguy
Hidden 24/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
JulesV 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Shauna 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Jules
Rob Grant 13/Apr/11 Lead
with steve yo
steve_yo 13/Apr/11 2nd
with smooth
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
gingerwolf 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S

P1 only, at HVS

Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Milne 12/Oct/10 2nd O/S

nice moves out of cave.

Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
al99 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Led in 1 pitch! Thought the bottom crack was stiff for HVS. The moves on the face and the unprotected romp up the arete are awesome!

pete87abs 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S

just the hvs to half height

highrepute 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattwyles1 ?/Aug/10 Lead β

First pitch only, with Scotts gear preclipped.

Dave Foster 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Lead P1 previously, ran it all into one today. Top section was all a bit gripping, would've ended up at Higgar Tor if I'd've blown it near the top.

with Andy
Jonathan Hall 11/Jun/10 Lead
JRigby ?/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 27/May/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 09/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
markalmack 28/Apr/10 2nd β
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
Adam Potter 22/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Scary coming after the cave

Hidden 20/Apr/10 2nd
Dave Warburton 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Lead it one pitch so ran it out to prevent rope drag. Thought the top was pretty good value for HS?

Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
gingerwolf 01/Dec/09 Lead O/S

with gear in

Ben1983 15/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Jamie p1 me p2

Hidden 28/Oct/09 AltLd
BrettB 23/Oct/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead
Pete Graham ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
LoopyLou 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Starting crack has easy to read but pumpy moves up to the cave. Nice rest. The traverse out left and up the finger crack is obvious but fingery asnd committing - not exactly a hand rail! Reward is an easy romp to finish. A good route to try if you are pushing your grade as very safe gear.

with Helen Lear
Hidden 20/Jun/09 TR
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
mike lawrence? 26/May/09 2nd

slipped on first pitch and fell rushing the 2nd pitch, reversed it and did it clean

with FatRob
Boy 08/May/09 -

Led as one long pitch

with Nige Kershaw
Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Clee 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Different Steve 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S

P1 only - very sustained!

with Clio & Tom
overexposure 05/Apr/09 TR dog

1st pitch only at HVS 5b. Learning to finger jam. went better than expected...

BeccaSnowden 01/Apr/09 2nd
with Tom
thomasadixon 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S

First section/pitch is nails, second went fairly easily.

with Becca
Alex Mason 24/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Quite hard until you step down, nice route

andy gravestock 24/Mar/09 2nd β

i good route to get warmed up with although couldnt feel my fingers tops moves fairly hard.

mike278 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S

First pitch only

with JWB
JWB 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

1st pitch only at HVS 5b.

with Mike278
Hidden 11/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Mar/09 Lead dog
Michael Ryan ??/2009 -

To Cave: HVS

with Donna Claridge
Dave Foster 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

P1 and ab'd off. Great climbing, tough final moves.

with Andy
Hidden 31/Aug/08 Lead dnf
OffshoreAndy 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Works Frasier
Hidden 22/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Cragrat Rich 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Went ok. First crack needs respect but came easy compared to top half, which was scary to start (despite good friends in cave exit), became insecure and then produced solid wires for top moves to shelf. Got caught out by some bad rope drag. Very pleasing ascent for me

mattyork2 07/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got a little bit scared on this. Lat bit of really solid gear was at the top of the hvs and eventually fell off onto a poor nut that I sketched into the traversing finger crack, as I was trying to rock up poorly onto the ledge. Get back on it Matt.

BenJacobs 06/Jun/08 2nd dog

first pitch only. found this as hard as Regent Street, Probably was just tired. still enjoyable though

with Dave and Nick
morganator 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Ivan Green
Tommy G ?/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Tom P
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/May/08 Lead rpt
Creep_pea 14/May/08 TR O/S

Too Cave only

with Andy
Hidden 09/May/08 2nd O/S
alaan 09/May/08 Lead O/S
with Oli
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead
Dan 85 06/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Nicos
Alex Mason 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

first pitch warm-up.

with Andy Reeve
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 22/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Tom Randall
lukea 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Rich
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead
UndercoverElephant ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/07 Lead O/S
Nicos 06/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
datoon ??/2007 Lead O/S
with MJ
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
Andrew Sloan 29/Oct/06 2nd dog
lukea 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with dan
lukea 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with dan
Martin Haworth ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/06 Lead dog
AJ007 14/Apr/06 2nd dnf

1st pitch only

feilx ?/Dec/05 AltLd O/S

lead the 1st pitch

ukb & bmc shark 25/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/05 AltLd
duncan 30/May/05 Lead rpt
with Hugo Glover
Hidden ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ?/May/04 Lead

Did 1st pitch only to the cave (5b)

with Jim Barradale
Mick r 05/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

pretty sure it was with Tony. lead 2nd pitch

with Tony H
Hidden 02/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 -
Hidden 16/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/01 TR O/S
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Carl Smethurst 21/Aug/99 Lead dog
with Ian Pickles
Hidden 28/Apr/99 AltLd
chris sm ?/May/97 AltLd dnf

Rained halfway up the route.

with Andy Gill
Roget 21/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 06/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/95 Lead O/S
ste_d 14/May/95 AltLd O/S
with mik
Dave Musgrove 02/Sep/94 AltLd
with David
Hidden 26/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 10/Oct/93 -
with Bill Deakin, Cec
andybirtwistle 02/Oct/93 AltLd
with Steve Brewis
nokishatov 12/May/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/93 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/93 Lead
Stoney Boy 15/Apr/93 Lead O/S

Pitch 1

with Bob Marks
NickJH ??/1993 Lead β
with JOwen
Hammy 19/Apr/92 2nd
with Fai Kwong, Mandy Kwong
Hidden 11/Apr/92 Lead
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden 20/Jun/91 Lead
Steve Crowe 12/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden ?/May/90 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/May/89 Lead
with Nigel Boothroyd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead O/S
with The General (P.Henderson)
Hidden 28/Mar/88 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 01/Nov/87 Lead
with Dave Simmonds
Hidden 31/Aug/87 Lead
John Marsland 13/Jun/87 Lead dnf

1st pitch only

Hidden ??/1987 -
sadams ?/Sep/86 AltLd
with Mark Bonham
keefe 03/Aug/86 -
with Johnny Adams
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
GuyM ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Andy Nicholson ?/Sep/84 2nd O/S
with Spike
TonyF 10/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
Mark Kemball 22/Feb/82 AltLd
with Bill McKee
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jul/80 2nd

Date a guess

with Phil Smith
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 50
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set