Rockfax Description
The left-hand continuous crack system is tough. Start as for H.P.D. but move right to the crack. Protection is good and the holds keep appearing but the whole thing is quite hard work. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. Ed Drummond 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Good E4s, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Tom Randalls Classic Finger Cracks, James' Winter Grit ticklist.

James Oswald 28/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Tough - top end E3.

with Alan saul
ashtond6 15/May/16 Lead dnf

Head issues. Climbing easy

willackers 24/Apr/16 2nd β
with Rob Napier
Gabe Oliver 24/Apr/16 Lead dog

Attempted this as my 2nd E3, needless to say it put up a good fight. Some spits of rain made some of the footholds on the crux super greasy which resulted in a few falls but eventually got through it. Felt good to man up and get on it, will be even better to come back and get it clean!

with Frith
ClimberJimmyB 18/Apr/16 TR dog
with Ben Jones
Louishmouis ?/Apr/16 Lead β
with Dad
john lynch 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt


with Lewis Andrew, Bethan D
harry_lewis 27/Sep/15 Lead β

on shaun's gear

with Nina
dom94 27/Sep/15 Lead β

On shauns gear, looks horrendous as you start the headwall, but not too bad once you figure out the moves and commit

shaunhumphreys 27/Sep/15 Lead G/U

pumped out placing the gear post crux 1st go, and dont even know what happened 2nd time but felt very easy 3rd time round.

benkelsey 27/Sep/15 Lead β

On shauns gear. Hottest part of the day. Easier than billy whizz by far.

with Shaun Humphreys
amccann 27/Sep/15 Lead β
ninastirrup 27/Sep/15 2nd
phil64 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Super sequence and bomber kit

with matt dean
ChrisBrooke 19/Jul/15 Lead dog

Made an embarrassment of myself on this one. Was climbing well up to the steepening, placed the gear, figured it out, made the moves, placed more gear and pumped out, sagging onto a couple of micro cams. Was feeling the pump from Billy Whizz the previous day and shouldn't have got on this. Got to the top but was ridiculously pumped. Shame as the moves are really cool.

with Andy
nai 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ian ?
Mike W 12/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/15 Lead O/S
bigdrew 10/May/15 2nd rpt
markalmack 04/May/15 2nd O/S


WB 04/May/15 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett ?/May/15 2nd

thought this was tricky

with Mike
Hidden 11/Apr/15 Lead RP
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/15 Lead dog

Wasn't too pumped but could not sort my feet on crux and floated down. Luckily gear is awesome

morganator 01/Nov/14 Lead
with martin gibson
Nick1812P 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jake
WillDoyle 17/Sep/14 2nd rpt
dannyboy83 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
tebs 27/Aug/14 Lead dog

Decided to lead in it's original spirit i.e. aid (shut down by a combination of irrational fear of falling more than about 5 cm onto a bomber nut, greasy connies and insecure climbing. Not my finest hour). Certainly harder than Billy Whizz.

with Burns, Adam
Chris Reid 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Rob Muirhead
tim newton 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Abbed of afterwards to strip the gear so Gwen could lead it too and stupidly didn't clip a cam properly to my harness and it fell in the pool. Once down I stripped off to my boxers and Gwen lowered me into the pool below the route, which was chest high for me and there was a dead sheep a few metres away in the water, not to mention loads of tadpoles and God knows what else. I was in there for over half an hour trying to find the cam with my feet, which is pretty hard because of all the reeds and rocks. I found 2 other cams but not mine unfortunately. Eventually I got too cold, there was some pretty serious shivering going on, so I gave up. I think the whole thing's going to stick in my mind for quite a while really, it was a busy bank holiday too, perfect! The route was allright.

with gwen lancashire
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd dnf
pie_eater_pete 29/Mar/14 Lead
bwestwood 29/Mar/14 2nd
Sarah Black 29/Mar/14 Lead dog

One silly fall near the top. Got back on and finished it off fine. Great route!

Andy Peak 1 24/Mar/14 Lead RP

awesome route which lots of rests and good gear

with phill ukc
Andy Peak 1 23/Mar/14 2nd
Granitemuncher 16/Mar/14 Lead RP

hard for the grade IMO. Nice little crack climb.

Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
uphillnow ??/2014 -
WillDoyle 04/Jul/13 2nd
with Mike
Chris Reid 19/May/13 Lead
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie Birch
Si dH 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
ChrisBrooke 28/Apr/13 2nd
with Dan McManus
Hidden 21/Apr/13 -
Hidden 15/Apr/13 2nd β
Kevster 14/Apr/13 Lead dog

One rest. will go next attempt. Good climb.

illwizod 14/Apr/13 2nd dog
with Kevin Faux
Mike Warner ??/2013 Lead
James Oakes 27/Oct/12 Lead β

On Chris's gear.

Chris_barr 27/Oct/12 Lead
with Guy
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead dog
AlexRenshaw 05/Oct/12 2nd
with Johnny Dawes, Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
soph 16/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Keendan 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Very happy to have this. Faffed around loads getting decent gear at the first crux, then went pretty quick. Used a high left heel hock at the crux and pulled on the peg scars, very sloppy, felt close. First E3 onsight :)

with Remus
remus 20/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Quite straightforward when you dont have to worry about gear. Dan put in a fine effort to OS this, good fight.

with Dan Heath, LSMC randoms
Andy Peak 1 02/Jun/12 Lead
with pabage
pabbage 02/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead O/S
robin_hackney 13/May/12 2nd O/S

Really pumpy climbing.

with Si
remus 12/May/12 Lead RP

Did this with a rest a couple of years ago, really cool to go back and get it done. Not too bad if you've got a bit left in the tank by the time you get to the crux.

tebs 15/Apr/12 2nd β

A lot of beta, and a fairly tight rope! Hard crux but great climbing.

with JP, Chad
JonnoP 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Chad
Chad123 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Tough E3 but great fun, slabby start surprisingly delicate, then a couple of powerful cranks on good finger locks leads to a pumpy, juggy finish. Gear is perfect in the top half. Was hoping to do Billy Whizz as well to compare, but looked pretty wet, next time....

Apharri 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JRae 14/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Close! Got on it without a warmup due to lack of time, hung around too long and got too sapped for the crux.

with Arthur
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
bigdrew 02/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Hidden 04/Oct/11 2nd
w.pettet-smith 18/Aug/11 Lead

previously seconded. good fight, got it clean. fair bit harder than bw i thought, a couple of hardish pulls, one made a little easier by someone elses ott tickmarking. (didn't complaun at the time!)

with tim
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
gregoritos 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S
atapper21 ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 2nd
BeccaSnowden 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S

So pleased to get this clean! Amazing route maybe I'll lead it one day..

with Tom
thomasadixon 26/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Becca
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/11 2nd
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

easy, how is this on the good e4's tick list?

highlux 22/Oct/10 Lead O/S
barni 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 26/Sep/10 Lead RP

Clean second go, wimped out first time and rested. Did BW same day, found it much easier than this - easier moves plus a good rest on the jam.

with Mike
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29/Aug/10 Lead
with Jon Sykes
Fran S8 23/Aug/10 2nd
drcorbasisgod 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 06/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with chris parson
metal arms 01/Aug/10 Lead dog

Dogged the utter s*it out of it. Will have to go back....

JulesV 01/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 28/May/10 2nd
with Kieran Hodgson
Hidden 15/May/10 2nd
remus 09/May/10 Lead dog

1 fall. Spent ages hanging around trying to work out the crux but got it pretty quickly after spottign the massive hold to the left.

Hidden 16/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Soft. Hard climbing, not pumpy and well protected.

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
mattyork2 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Miles Gibson
Boy ?/Nov/09 -

Dropped half my wires in the pond!

with Fiona Fullwood
Hidden 30/Oct/09 2nd β
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Misha 17/Oct/09 Lead

Fell off the crux three times before figuring out a slightly different way of doing it, whereupon it felt pretty straightforward. Wasn't entirely convinced by the gear (cams) towards the bottom of the crackline, good higher up though. No harder than Billy Whizz, that one should be E3 as well! Should be 'dogged' but put as 'led' so would could for 'Good E4s' ticklist, though no way is this E4!

ndp 10/Oct/09 2nd


Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
bigie bob 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/09 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead dog
chrisdavies 19/Jun/09 Lead
Rich Kirby 23/May/09 2nd rpt
with Kev
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
robin heath 16/May/09 2nd
with kim
datoon 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 08/May/09 Lead
middlevern ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Blood
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 22/Apr/09 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
DanH9883 08/Apr/09 2nd
with Ed
ed woods 07/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Henry
Pete Graham 25/Mar/09 2nd
john lynch 22/Nov/08 2nd dog

hmm cold hands may be my excuse for this struggle??, awsome route, well done that man.

with dan woolnough
Dan 85 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S
mel holmes 20/Jul/08 2nd
with PeakDJ
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead RP
TomHaigh 23/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Doug
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead rpt
dts 22/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Brown 20/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
Ram MkiV 23/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Not the struggle I was expecting. Quality line and great slightly dynamic but easier move towards the top.

with Alex
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
rockhugger ??/2008 -
Hidden 25/Nov/07 Lead dnf
Mick r 20/Oct/07 2nd dog

Al lead clean - V impressive, then dragged me up. had to rake a rest on the crux but completed all the moves OK not much harder than Billy Wizz, and not 6a

Alex Mason 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

easier and better moves than billy whizz

with mick radford
Hidden 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S
ksjs 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S


Hidden 06/May/07 2nd dog
craig d ?/May/07 Lead rpt
with Mark Bridgman-Smith
DavidEvans 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John Helme
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
ukb shark 19/Nov/05 TR rpt
KRB 23/Oct/05 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this. Well protected.

with Martin Bridges
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Chris Reid 27/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead
Dave Bond 13/Apr/03 Lead β
with charles
rc ??/2003 2nd
with Al Boyd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead dnf
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Graded E4 in the guide

with Naomi Walker
Hidden ?/Apr/02 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/00 Lead
tuftynick ??/2000 2nd
with Kenton Cool
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
philhilo ??/2000 2nd O/S

Was E4 at the time but so easy compared to High Plains Drifter. Finger lockin' good.

nickcanute ??/2000 -
with led or solo -various dates
Jon Read ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Tanya Holdsworth
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Budge 27/Jul/97 2nd dog
with Simon Sena
Hidden 22/Mar/97 Lead
Hidden 29/May/96 Lead
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden 27/May/95 Lead rpt
ste_d 23/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 23/Mar/95 2nd O/S
D Tempest 28/Aug/94 Lead
with Rick
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/94 Lead O/S
rockaddiction ??/1994 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??/1994 Lead O/S
Roget 17/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with colin
Stoney Boy 17/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Neil McCallum
Hidden 07/Mar/93 Lead RP
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
NickJH ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with J Hirst
Hidden 31/Aug/92 Lead
Tony Little 23/May/92 Lead O/S
with Martin
andybirtwistle 09/May/92 -
with Mike Arnold
whispering nic 02/Feb/92 -
with Ali W
Hidden ??/1992 2nd
sadams 21/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Kev Mellieu
Steve Crowe 21/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Neil R 19/May/90 2nd
with Mark
Eduardo Martinez 12/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
Bulls Crack ??/1990 Lead O/S
with AM
tapley 22/Jun/89 2nd
phardman 04/Jun/89 Lead dog

1 fall

with John Lloyd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead
phardman 21/May/88 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
ukb shark 19/May/87 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 19/Apr/87 Lead
with Grahame Nicoll
GuySummers ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden ?/Jun/83 Lead
mark-abz 15/Apr/83 TR
with Andy W
Mark Kemball 23/Feb/83 2nd
with Paul Clark
Gezzer ??/1983 -
with Andy Towne
Mark Kemball 27/Mar/82 Lead
with Steve Finch
duncan ?/Jun/81 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 56
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set